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OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD 
SAILING SHIP DAYS 




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OCEAN LIFE 

IN THE OLD SAILING 

SHIP DAYS 

From Forecastle to Quarter-deck 



By 

Captain John D. Whidden 



The sea ! the sea ! the open sea, 

The blue, the fresh, the ever free ! 

Without a mark, without a hound, 

It runneth the earth's wide regions' round ; 

It plays with the clouds ; it mocks the skies ; 

Or like a cradled creature lies. 

The Sea— Bryan W. Procter. 



With 29 Illustrations from Photographs 



BOSTON 
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 

1908 



lUBRARYofCOf 

[WO Copies rieci-.rj. 

24 1908 

tS$ A KXc, Nu 
COPY B, | 



Copyright, 1908, 
By John D. Whidden. 






v. 



<v 



-4ZZ HfifAta reserved. 



Published September, 1908. 



Presswobk by 
Thb University Pbess, Cambbidob, U. B. A. 



TO 

CAPTAIN JOSEPH W. CLAPP OF NANTUCKET 

Dear Old Boy: — Although nearly fourscore years 
have silvered your head, you yet retain your mirth and 
sense of humor, as evidenced by your frequent letters, 
which have been to me a source of inspiration. To you, 
then, in memory of the many pleasant days passed in 
genial companionship in old Montevideo, S. A., upwards of 
forty years ago, this work is affectionately dedicated by 

The Author. 

Boston, 1908. 



PKEFACE 

" Captain, why don't you write a book? " 

This question has been often asked me when relating 
some tale of adventure or humorous anecdote of my sea 
life. 

" For the reason that I know nothing of book writing/' 
I have replied. " A school experience of seventy years 
ago, cut short at the age of twelve years, was not likely 
to leave a boy, however bright, with a high order of 
literary attainment." 

But, as years rolled on, after giving up the sea as a 
profession, I concluded to jot down from memory my 
quarter-century's sea experience. 

The characters are from life, the scenes and incidents 
as they appeared to me at the time, in a story of a New 
England boy's career from the age of twelve to thirty- 
seven. 

An orphan at five, on shipboard at twelve, exposed to 
temptation in every port, subjected to the rough usage 
and strict discipline of our merchant marine of sixty 
years ago, serving apprenticeship as boy, ordinary, and 
able seaman in the forecastle, graduating to third, second, 
and first officer with quarters in the land of knives and 
forks, i. e. the ship's cabin, and the sacred precincts of 
the quarter-deck, ending with the command and part 

vii 



viii PREFACE 

ownership of a fine craft; in all that time his feet clear 
of a ship's plank but twelve months. 

There certainly should be something interesting in 
such an experience. 

The old-time sailing ships, with all the incidents con- 
nected with them, the captains who commanded and 
sailed them, the old-time sailors — jolly old sea-dogs — 
who manned them, are all of the past, and with them 
departed the glamour and the romance of the sea, never 
to return. 

The march of progress never halts. Steamers have 
supplanted the old-time sailing ships in a great degree, 
canvas has given way to machinery and steam, steel and 
iron have been substituted for wood, sailors are super- 
seded by engineers with their assistants, while the captain 
and officers of to-day must be proficient in the knowledge 
of steam and machinery, ere they can hope for a command. 

The young men of the present generation know but 
little of the old-time shipping, or the old sailing-ship days, 
and in these pages to a certain extent the writer has 
endeavored to reproduce them. 

Nearly all the veteran shipmasters, graduates of the 
old school, so many of whom I well knew, have furled 
their sails and dropped anchor, let us hope, in a safe, 
restful harbor, life's troubled voyage ended. 

Some few yet remain, and to all such I give hearty 
greeting, trusting they will derive much pleasure from 
a perusal of these pages, which may be to them a reminder 
of their former lives. 

The writer has long since given up the sea as a pro- 
fession, but the salt sea breeze is still more grateful than 
the scent of roses, and on the waters of old ocean his 
happiest days were spent. 

Thanking my many friends for their words of encourage- 



PREFACE ix 

ment, trusting the work will meet with favor from the 
public, and be accorded a hearty welcome in memory of 
the bygone days of the old sailing ships, I remain, 

Heartily yours, 

John D. Whidden. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. In the Forecastle. — The Half Clipper 

"Ariel" 1 

II. Boys' Duties in the Forecastle. — At New 

York Loading for Liverpool ... 12 

III. The Passage to Liverpool. — Jack Afloat 

and Ashore 25 

IV. Crossing the Line. — Fernando Norohna. — 

The Malays , 32 

V. Boat Towns on Canton River. — Loading 

Teas. — Homeward Bound .... 41 

VI. Rio de Janeiro Cape Horn. — Otaheite . 52 

VII. Society Islands. — Honolulu. — California 

Gold Fever ,59 

VIII. Whaling in '48. — Again Tahiti. — Escape 
to the Hills. — Dinner in the French 

Restaurant 68 

IX. San Francisco. — Astoria. — Portland. — 

Genuine Red Men ,79 

X. Chile and Peru. — Italy Cotton - screwing 

and " Chanties " on New Orleans Levees . 89 
XI. Ashore on Terra del Fuego. — Cape Pem- 
broke. — Port Stanley. — An Interna- 
tional Incident ...... 102 

XII, Fishing on the Grand Banks Mayaguez, 

Porto Rico. — Savannah, Ga. — Ashore on 
the Dry Tortugas . . . , , 115 



Xll 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

XIII. Calcutta. — Juggernaut. — Ceylon. — 

Mauritius. — St. Helena — New Orleans 124 

XIV. Captain Meacom's Ideas. — Observance of 

the Sabbath. — Social Life in Calcutta. 

— Animal Life on Shipboard . . . 134 
XV. Captain of the " Little Lizzie." — Hur- 
ricane off Rio de la Plata. — Buenos 
Ayres in Winter. — Dinners, Lunches, 
Horseback Riding. — Barque on Fire . 150 

XVI. New Orleans in Winter. — Balls, Operas, 
etc. — The French Market at Sunrise. — 
To Marseilles — The Ship "J. P. Whit- 
ney." . . 163 

XVII. Taking the Black Veil in Sicily. — Re- 
turn Voyage to New Orleans. — Tre- 
mendous Rolls and an Animated Ome- 
lette. — A Wedding Party on Shipboard. 179 
XVIII. Buying into the " C. H. Jordan." — A Pro- 
tracted Calm in the Tropics. — The 
Saladero de la Fonda, Montevideo. - 
The Effect of the War on Foreign 

Trade . . 191 

XIX. The Fiasco of Professor Love — The Dom 

Pedro Railroad Brazilian Forests. — 

Rio Janeiro to St. Thomas . . . 202 
XX. Lively Chase by a Privateer In Com- 
mand of Ship " Danube." — Heavy Gale. 

— Chinese Pirates. — The « Ariel " at 
Shanghai 211 

XXI. Flying through Formosa Straits. — In 

Sight Daily of " Mountain Wave " from 
Manila to Madagascar. — Farewell to 

Old Cape Horn San Francisco after 

Fourteen Years 221 

XXII. The Pilot Service in '63. — Pacific Mail 

Steamships. — Acapulco. — Isthmus of 



CONTENTS 



xm 



CHAPTER PAGE 

Panama. — Supercargo to the Bahama 
Islands. — Schooner « Elizabeth " . . 236 

XXIII. Coasting in the Bahamas. — Sociability a 

Promoter of Trade. — Extra Care in 
Fruit Transportation. — Famous Block- 
ade Runners. — End of the War a Blow 
to Nassau 245 

XXIV. The Barque "Keystone/' — War Scenes 

at Richmond and Petersburg. — River 

glronde and bordeaux. happy ocean 

Life in Old Sailing Ship Days . . 254 

XXV. Four Months at Fever -stricken Buenos 
Ayres. — Three Hundred Sail in Port. 
— The Botanical Gardens of Rio Ja- 
neiro. — A Weird Night at Botofogo ,, 263 
XXVI. Bahia. — Our Lady of Bom Fim. — Dinner 
Parties on Shipboard. — Cape Clear 

Light. — Liverpool 273 

XXVII. Liverpool. — Spurgeon and Myrtle Street 
Chapel. — An Irish Jaunting-car. — 
Captains' Wives at Sea .... 282 
XXVIII. Chittagong and Akyab. — Again the 
Burning Ghauts. — Intense Heat "Day 
and Night. — Reducing Temperature. — 
From Akyab to Falmouth, England . 291 
XXIX. The Isle of St. Helena. — Longwood and 

the Tomb of Napoleon Falmouth, 

England Antwerp, Belgium . . 300 

XXX. The Decadence of the Sailing Ships 

The War Tariff. — American Shipping 
under Foreign Flags. — The Merchant 
Marine the School of Reserve for the 
Navy. — Farewell to the « Keystone " 
at Antwerp 309 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Portrait of the Author .... Frontispiece ' 

Washington Street, Marblehead, in 1840, Showing 

Townhouse and Old Salem Stage . . . 2 s 

The Old Home at Marblehead, formerly the Resi- 
dence of General John Glover of Revolu- 
tionary Fame 13 ' 

Longwood, St. Helena, Prison Home of Napoleon . 48 / 

Botofogo Bay and Peaks of Gabia and Corcovada, 

Rio de Janeiro . 48 

San Francisco in 1849 83 j 

Barque " Cornelia L. Bevan," Old - time Baltimore 

Clipper, off Palermo . . . . . 83 

Off for the Grand Banks in 1845. « Round the 

Rocks of Marblehead" 116" 

Appleton's Wharf, Marblehead, 1840. Old-time 

Fishing Schooners Fitting Out .... 119. 

Off the Ghauts at Calcutta. Shipping Lying at 

Moorings 140 / 

Montevideo Bay, Showing Mount, Uruguay . . 155. 

Mouth of River Chaco and Warehouses, Buenos 

Ayres 155 

Barque " Azof " off Marseilles. A Fine Type of 

the Old-time Freighter 169*' 

Model of Ship " Isaac Jeanes," Captain William C. 

Chipman 178 

Captain William C. Chipman, Barnstable, Mass. . 184 / 

Ship "J. P. Whitney" at Port of Malta. . . 190 / 

Captain Joseph W. Clapp, Nantucket, Mass. . . 197 , 

xv 



xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Ship "Daniel I. Tenney" of Newburyport, Mass., 

leaving Havre 212^ 

Ship "Edward Hymen" of Castine, Maine. A Fine 

Specimen of the Old Merchant Marine . . 212 
Ship « Danube " at Anchor off Victoria, Hong - Kong 230 ' 
Quays and River Frontage, Bordeaux . . . 258 _, 
Quai Louis XVIII and Light - towers, River Gi- 

ronde, Bordeaux 258 

Rio de Janeiro, Entrance to Bay. Gloria Hill and 

Sugar Loaf 267 

Rio de Janeiro. Aqueduct from the Corcovada, 

Twelve Miles Distant. The City's Water Supply 269 

City of Bahia in 1868 274 

Rio de Janeiro. Cathedral and Palace Square . 277 
Ship " Importer " Passing Rock Light, Entrance to 

River Mersey, Liverpool ..... 285 
Captain George T. Avery, Newburyport, Mass. . 295 
Barque " Keystone " off Holyhead, Wales, from 

Bahia for Liverpool 303 ' 



OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD 
SAILING SHIP DAYS 



CHAPTER I 
1832 - 1845 

IN THE FORECASTLE. — THE HALF 

I was born on High Street in Boston, Mass., in the 
year 1832, and lost my parents when I was but five years 
of age. My mother died at Mobile, Alabama, where 
my father was engaged in business, and my father died 
in Savannah, Georgia, the year after. Upon their decease, 
my grandparents having taken charge of my sister and 
myself, we were brought up in their family at Marble- 
head, Mass., and I attended the public schools until I 
attained the age of twelve years. 

At this time I was called a very fair scholar, well up 
in reading, writing, and geography, fair in arithmetic, 
and intensely interested in books of travel and adventure, 
while all works treating of the sea, tales of travel in 
foreign lands, shipwrecks and everything pertaining to 
the ocean, had a very great fascination for me. 

Marblehead being a seaport town, my time, when not 
in school or employed around the house doing chores, 
was spent with my companions about the wharves, 
ewimming or climbing about the vessels at the docks, 

1 



2 OCEAN LIFE 

rowing around the harbor in the small boats, or dories, 
that we would borrow from the various captains or 
skippers of the fishing craft, — mostly schooners from 
fifty to ninety tons burthen, engaged in the Grand Banks 
fisheries, of which at this time there was a fleet of nearly 
a hundred sail, all hailing from and owned in Marblehead. 

What a treat for us boys when a square rigger — as 
we designated all barks, ships, and brigs — came sailing 
into the harbor, perhaps from Cadiz, Spain, laden with 
salt for the fishing fleet to take to the Grand Banks of 
Newfoundland for their spring fares, and when she 
hauled into the wharf to discharge her cargo into the 
salt sheds, how we youngsters swarmed on board, explor- 
ing every nook and cranny of her, climbing over her rig- 
ging, daring each other to mount higher and higher, until 
with a feeling of triumph I at last placed my cap upon 
the main royal truck, the highest point, and looking 
down saw the admiring, though envious, gaze of my young 
companions ! 

Then, again, to sit around the foVsle after the work 
for the day was over, to see the sailors at their meals, 
and hear them spin their yarns, was happiness indeed. 

To go to sea, become a sailor, visit foreign lands, and 
in due time become the captain of a fine ship, this was 
the goal to be looked forward to, the great aim of our 
lives. It certainly was of mine, and I judge of all, or 
nearly all, of my playmates. 

My grandparents were not in favor of my adopting a 
sailor's life, wishing me to learn a trade, but to this I 
was opposed, and rang the changes upon the advantages 
of a seafaring life, until they gave way and consented. 

Shortly after this decision, on my return from school 
one day I was ushered into the parlor, where sat a gentle- 
man in conversation with my grandmother, to whom I 



IN THE FORECASTLE 3 

was introduced. He was Captain James King, of Salem, 
Mass., and I learned for the first time that I was to join 
the ship he commanded in two weeks, the ship being the 
fine new half clipper named the "Ariel," just launched, 
and lying at Newburyport, bound round to New York to 
load flour for Liverpool, England, from thence to China, 
she having been built for a Canton trader. 

This was joyful news indeed, and I went out from the 
parlor, after making my best bow and answering all his 
questions in a satisfactory manner, the happiest boy in 
the old town. 

During our conversation, my grandmother touched 
upon my good qualities, and said to Captain King that 
she did not see how she could part with me, I was so 
useful and willing to do anything about the house, such 
a help to her, etc., etc., to all of which I listened in con- 
siderable astonishment, for, while my grandmother was 
one of the best of souls and very fond of me, yet I was 
constantly getting into trouble, and received more 
scoldings, no doubt richly deserved, than pettings. In 
fact, at this time I had fallen into disgrace, and I after- 
ward thought it the predisposing cause of her consent 
being obtained to my going to sea. 

The facts were as follows: At regular intervals during 
the year, and especially about the holidays, Thanksgiving 
and Christmas, my grandmother made up and baked 
what she called a " batch " of pies, — mince, apple, and 
squash predominating. I was very fond of pie, and at 
these times I was in great demand to peel and core 
apples, seed raisins, chop meat and suet for the mince; 
taking a most active part, and a very willing one, in all 
that was going on in this line. 

Then came the baking. Our kitchen was large and 
roomy, and the fireplace immense. This was before 



4 OCEAN LIFE 

cooking stoves came into use. On the left side of the 
fireplace was a large brick oven, where all the baking 
was done, and when this occurred it was in large quantities, 
about thirty or forty pies constituting a " batch." After 
baking, they were stored in what was called the " back 
chamber closet," very large and convenient, having tiers 
of shelves around it, there to remain until wanted. It 
was a goodly and attractive sight to my eyes whenever 
a fresh " batch " was stored away. I longed to get at 
them, but the old lady, probably feeling that I was 
not to be trusted when pies were around, always kept 
the closet locked and the keys stowed safely in her ample 
pocket. My little bedroom adjoined this chamber, and 
in going and returning I was obliged to pass through it. 
Always in the morning I invariably tried this closet door, 
and always found it locked, but this morning my grand- 
mother had forgotten to lock it, although she had taken 
out the key! I could hardly credit it. Opening the 
door I looked in, where lay the rows of pies, temptingly 
displayed in tiers, shelf over shelf. I would not have 
stolen money, or anything else, but the sight was too 
much, and I yielded to temptation. I did not dare take 
a whole pie, as that would be missed at once. To cut one 
would be open to the same objection, i. e. discovery. 
I pondered awhile how J should enjoy the fruits of my 
" find " and yet escape detection. A brilliant thought 
struck me. Slipping down-stairs I entered the kitchen. 
My grandma was busily engaged, and I could see was 
likely to be, for half or three quarters of an hour, at least. 
Hastily smuggling a case-knife into my pocket, I passed 
out of and around the house and entered by the side door. 
Creeping softly up the back stairs, in a moment I was 
again in the closet. Standing on a chair, and taking a 
pie from the top shelf, knowing these would be the last 



IN THE FORECASTLE 5 

used, I inserted the thin knife between the upper and 
lower crusts, and working carefully round was able to 
lift the top crust sufficiently to enable me to get at and 
eat all the mince from the inside. Carefully replacing 
the top crust, and patting the edges down, the pie to a 
casual observer showed no difference, in the looks, from 
any other pie. Pleased with my first experiment, I pro- 
ceeded to try another, and did not finish my feast until 
I had eaten the insides out of six or seven pies. 

Each day I visited the closet and regaled myself on 
mince or apple pie, taking no note of the number; in 
short, I was just living on pie. No wonder my dear old 
grandmother thought my appetite was failing and grew 
anxious about me, but the end was near! 

One day, on my return from school, I found we had 
company to tea, two or three ladies. This was good news, 
for company days were red letter days to me, as we 
always had something extra in the way of cake, pre- 
serves, and pies; in short, a great addition to e very-day 
fare. 

The tea was ready, the table nicely laid, and the guests 
seated around it, my grandmother at the head to serve 
the tea, grandpa at her left, and myself at her right. I 
can see her now, smiling, and beaming upon her guests, 
as she glanced around the well-appointed board. 

Ann, our old servant, had been commissioned to bring 
down two or three pies, which were on the hearth in front 
of the fire, warming. At the right moment one of the pies 
was placed in front of the old lady. As she took the 
knife and fork in her hands to cut it, she made a few 
remarks on how she made her pies, how careful she was 
to select the ingredients, etc., ending with the query 
whether Mrs. Jones would prefer apple or mince? 

" Well, really, Mrs. Appleton," replied the lady, 



6 OCEAN LIFE 

" they look so nice, I believe I'll take a small piece of 
each." 

" Why, certainly," replied my grandmother, laying her 
knife upon the pie, which crashed through it like an egg- 
shell! 

I shall never forget the feeling of terror that seized me, 
or the look of astonishment on my grandmother's face, 
as she turned reproachfully to Ann, and said: 

" Why, Ann! You've forgotten to put any mince in 
this pie," adding, rather sternly, " You may pass me up 
another pie." 

Ann's face was a study. She was a splendid cook, and 
to be called down before company for not putting mince 
©r apple in pies, and baking them without, was past her 
comprehension. She could not understand it. Another 
pie was placed upon the table, and again the old lady 
started to cut it, meanwhile apologizing for keeping her 
guest waiting. Same result! Laying down her knife 
and fork, she looked at my grandpa, and then at me. 

Although not a word had been said, I could contain 
myself no longer and blurted out, " I didn't do it." 

This of course was a dead give-away. 

My grandfather arose, and taking me by the shoulder 
marched me to the door, telling me to go to bed, and he 
would attend to me by and by, which he did, and I 
lost all appetite for pie for the time intervening between 
this event and my leaving home. 

The illustration facing page 13 shows the home of 
my grandfather Thomas Appleton, once that of the 
Revolutionary General John Glover. 

Now came the bustle of preparation. The carpenter, 
old Mr. Jerry Smith, was given the commission to make 
my little blue sea-chest. As no member of the family 
had ever been to sea, the old folks were somewhat at a 



IN THE FORECASTLE 7 

loss as to what I would require, but this was got over 
by pressing into the service old Captain Edmund Bray, 
a retired shipmaster, who readily entered into the family 
councils, and, acting on his suggestions, my outfit was 
soon completed and packed away in my chest. 

On Monday morning, I was to leave home, and taking 
my books from school Friday night for the last time, I 
bade the master good-by, spending Saturday with the 
boys in all their games, it being a holiday. 

Sunday I attended church all day, and the following 
morning said the last good-by, and started for the station 
with my grandfather. Arriving a little before train 
time, he spent the interval in giving me good advice, 
which I am afraid was not listened to as earnestly as it 
should have been, when handing me my tickets for New- 
buryport, with six new half-dollars, which were very 
highly appreciated, money having always been a very 
scarce article during my school days. I stepped on board 
the train and in a few moments was speeding away 
toward my future home, at least it would be my home 
for a year or more. 

Arriving at Newburyport, I hired a conveyance and 
was driven to the wharf with my chest, there obtaining 
the first view of the ship in which I was to make my 
start in life, and, as I took in her trim appearance, and 
looked aloft at her long, tapering spars, realizing that 
I was really a member of her crew, a feeling of pride came 
over me, and all regrets, if I had any, were swept away, 
and I felt I had made no mistake in adopting a sailor's life. 

The first and second officers were on board, with the 
carpenter, who came out to assist me in getting my chest 
on board and stowed away in the fo'c'sle, where for the 
time I was the only occupant, the carpenter having his 
room aft. 



8 OCEAN LIFE 

Having got my mattress into one of the upper berths, 
I got out my blankets and sheets, with " comforter " 
or spread, and proceeded to make my bed after a home 
pattern. At this time sheets and pillow-cases were unheard 
of articles in a ship's fo'c'sle, but of this fact I was not 
aware, so made my bed as near as I remembered it in 
my little chamber at home. This being done, I went 
on deck, making the acquaintance of the first and second 
officers, by whom I was set to work at odd jobs about 
deck, sweeping up, and anything I was told to do. 

As the crew had not come down from Boston, there 
was no cooking on board, but the officers and myself got 
our meals at a place called " Brown's Tavern," but a 
short distance from the wharf. 

A week passed, and I had become quite accustomed to 
being on shipboard. After having received instructions 
from the second mate before going aloft, I had won 
considerable credit by sending down the main royal yard, 
and did the work in a manner that brought a compliment 
from him, i. e. " an old hand could not have done it 
better." 

This pleased me very much, and I began to consider 
myself quite a sailor. 

But, " pride goeth before a fall." 

It was the close, of a drear December day. Snow, 
rain, and sleet had been falling, and about four in the 
afternoon I had gone below in the fo'c'sle to get ready 
to go up to the tavern for supper, when I heard a great 
commotion on the deck overhead. The companion doors 
were thrown open, and down rained chests, bags, and 
hammocks, wet and dirty, followed by the crew who had 
just arrived on the train from Boston. 

There were about twenty men, of all nationalities, 
and as soon as they landed in the fo'c'sle they began 



IN THE FORECASTLE 9 

pitching the bags and hammocks into the berths, all 
talking and swearing, for they were not in good humor, 
being about as wet as their luggage. 

I had drawn up, and was standing on my little chest 
alongside my berth, when, without any ceremony or 
asking " by your leave," an old grizzled shellback tossed 
into my clean berth a wet, dirty bag and hammock. 

Although I had stood, half in awe, watching the scene, 
not venturing a word, this act of old Tom's was too much, 
and laying my hand upon his arm I remonstrated: 
" Don't do that! You'll soil my sheets! " 

Tom gave me a puzzled look for a moment, and ex- 
claimed, " Who in thunder are you? " 

I hastened to assure him that I was a sailor, one of 
the crew, and that was my berth, and my bed was made 
up. With a queer look he mounted my sea-chest and 
glanced into my berth. Never shall I forget his look of 
wonder, and the ineffable scorn conveyed in his tone 
as he turned around to his chum, and exclaimed with 
withering sarcasm, " Well I'm blessed, Joe " (only he did 
not say " blessed "), "if the beggar ain't got sheets! " 

I made no reply, but I felt that in his eyes, at least, 
I was no sailor, and when they had gone to supper, 
shortly after, off came the sheets and pillow-cases, which 
were stored at the bottom of my chest, nevermore to do 
duty as bedding on that ship. 

Two days after, the weather having cleared, the crew 
came on board, also the pilot and captain, and with a 
fine westerly breeze sail was made at the wharf, the fasts 
cast off, and the ship headed for the bar. As soon as 
crossed, the pilot was discharged, and all sail made, 
topmast stun'sail booms got up and run out, stun'sails 
got out and sent up, anchors secured, and everything 
movable about decks made fast. 



10 OCEAN LITE 

All was bustle and excitement attendant upon leaving 
port, and particularly in this case, as the " Ariel " was a 
new ship, on her maiden voyage, and many a glance was 
cast over the ship's side to note her speed. Meanwhile 
the log was hove, and showing better than ten knot, 
a general feeling of satisfaction was felt fore and aft. 
The sea was comparatively smooth, and everything new 
to me. I was in my element, long looked forward to, and 
entered into everything with a will. Where I did not 
fully understand all orders I went with the crowd, and 
took note of what was going on, managing to get along 
very well. 

At four o'clock the crew were called aft and the watches 
chosen, after which the port, or mate's, watch went 
below to supper, while the starboard, or second mate's, 
cleared up decks. They put everything in order for the 
night, while the boys swept up. 

At four bells, — six o'clock, — the mate's watch again 
came on deck to relieve the starboard, who went below 
for supper, remaining until eight o'clock, — eight bells, — 
when they again came up, relieving the port watch, 
who went below until midnight. 

I will here state that from four to eight o'clock p. m. 
is divided into two watches of two hours each, and this 
changes the watches each night; so that the port watch 
has eight hours below one night, i. e. from eight to 
twelve p. M. and from four to eight a. m., while the star- 
board has eight hours on deck, having only four hours 
below to sleep, i. e. from twelve midnight until four 
o'clock a. m. The " dog " watches, as they are called, 
serve to change the long watches, so that the two get 
their eight hours below every other night, and it is a 
rule that the second mate's watch always has the eight 
hours on deck the first night at sea. 



IN THE FORECASTLE 11 

I had been chosen in the second mate's watch, Mr. 
Henry Fabens's, and went to supper at six, with the 
rest. It consisted of hash, salt meat, hard ship's biscuit, 
and tea sweetened with molasses. After supper the men 
filled their pipes, smoked and " yarned " until eight bells, 
when they again went on deck, myself with them, to 
stand my first watch at sea. 

The wheel was relieved, the lookout man mounted the 
steps to the to'gallant foVsle, while the remainder of 
the watch either paced the deck from the break of the 
foVsle to the stern of the long boat, or picked out a snug 
berth, sheltered from the wind, to spin a long " yarn " 
to while away the four hours that must intervene before 
they could turn into a warm berth. 

Old Tom, who since the sheet and pillow-case business 
had hardly taken any notice of me, started to do a turn 
of walking, pacing regularly from the foVsle to amidships 
and return. 



CHAPTER II 

1845 

OREC, 
LOADING FOR LIVERPOOL 

Anxious to ingratiate myself in Tom's good graces, 
and thinking this a favorable opportunity, I hauled 
alongside, keeping pace, and strove to engage him in 
conversation, but was not very successful. He was very 
quiet, occasionally replying to my questions in gruff 
tones, until I became somewhat discouraged, and lapsed 
into silence. 

Presently four bells (ten o'clock) were struck aft, and 
repeated on the bell hung at the break of the to'gallant 
foVsle. The wheel was relieved and lookouts changed 
at this hour. It was old Tom's lookout, but he thought, 
probably/ that it would be much more comfortable on 
the main deck if he could shirk it, and send me up to 
take his place. The officer of the deck, seeing some one 
up there, would not know the difference unless he came 
forward on the foVsle, and as it looked fine, this was 
not likely. 

" Boy, have you had a lookout yet? " he asked, sud- 
denly turning to me. 

" No," said I. 

" Well, you get up on that foVsle deck, and keep a 
good lookout. Do you hear? " 

12 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 13 

" All right/' I answered, glad to be assigned a position, 
although I hardly knew what was required of me. 

I mounted the steps to the deck, and the former 
lookout descended, after asking who sent me. " Tom," 
I replied. 

" Oh, he did! " said he, and made no other remark. 

I found it much more exposed than the main deck. 
The night was dark. The topmast stun'sail having been 
taken in, the yards were braced forward, while the wind 
began to freshen and the sea to rise. To'gallant sails 
were handed, and while the ship heeled over to the 
increasing wind, the salt spray began to fly across the 
foVsle deck, drenching me, and as I had no oilskins on 
I was soon wet through. To add to all this, I began to 
have a squeamish feeling at my stomach, which rapidly 
increased until I lost all interest in any lookout, and 
stood clinging to the foVsle capstan, looking aft, towards 
the cabin, cold, wet and miserable, feeling that, after 
all, I may have made a mistake in deciding to become 
a sailor. As I thought of our cozy parlor at home, 
with its glowing grate of anthracite, in front of which 
I had spent so many happy evenings reading my favorite 
books, or sailing imaginary voyages, and contrasted that 
picture with my present situation, I made up my mind 
that when the ship arrived at New York, if ever she did, 
like the prodigal son I would return home, if I had to 
walk. 

Suddenly I was startled by a hoarse cry of " All 
hands on deck! Reef topsails! " In a few moments the 
watch below came tumbling up, the topsail yards were 
lowered on the caps, reef tackles hauled out, spilling- 
lines and buntlines bowsed taut, the men laid aloft to 
take in a double reef. These were the days of the big 
topsails, the double yards not having been invented. 



14 OCEAN LIFE 

All this was new to me, and as I lay over the capstan- 
head I listened to the noise made by the flapping of the 
big topsails, mingled with the hoarse cries of the crew 
as they hauled out the gear, while from out of the dark- 
ness overhead, after they had laid aloft, the stentorian 
voice of the second mate roared out to " Light over to 
wind'ard," followed by " Haul out to leeward," terms 
which at that time were so much Greek to me. 

After lying down from aloft, the topsails were again 
hoisted, and the watch sent below. It had now got to 
be seven bells (half-past eleven), and while anxiously 
counting the moments to eight bells, when our watch 
would go below, I was thoroughly aroused by a yell from 
the second officer. 

" Who in blazes is on that lookout? Don't you see 
that ship? " 

This was followed by some very emphatic language, 
and rushing forward, he jumped upon the foVsle deck, 
and sprang towards me, exclaiming, " Who's this on the 
lookout? " 

" Me! " I answered, in faint tones. 

" Well! where you looking out to, the binnacle? " 

He peered into my face, and with an oath demanded 
what I was doing up there, and who sent me. 

" Tom," I answered. 

" Oh! he did! " said he, as the truth dawned upon 
him, and leaving me, he descended to the main deck, 
and in a moment more old Tom came flying up on the 
fo'c'sle, assisted by the second mate in a most vigorous 
manner, where he was kept on the lookout for two hours 
in the first officer's watch before being allowed to go 
below. This was the last straw. Old Tom never forgave 
me. 

At eight bells I went below and turned in as I was, 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 15 

wet clothes and all, covered up well, and was soon warm 
and steaming. 

It did not seem as though I had more than got to sleep, 
when I was roused by three knocks on the scuttle, and 
the call of " Starboard watch ahoy." " Turn out! " 
"Turnout!" 

In a moment all was bustle, with the watch turning 
out to go on deck, but I made no response. Sick and 
miserable, I lay still, trusting I should be overlooked, 
but there came a call of " Come, boy, you going to sleep 
all the way to New York? Turn out! " 

I was about to comply, when I heard another voice, — 
" Oh, let the cub lay, he's no use on deck in this weather. 
He's sick." 

I said nothing, but lay still, and invoking blessings on 
the head of the last speaker, I slept on, but at seven bells, 
when the watch were called to breakfast, I was ordered 
out, without ceremony, and told to go to the galley and 
hand down the coffee and grub. 

In those days it was the custom for the boys to do all 
the drudgery in the ship's fo'c'sle; to keep the bread 
barge filled by taking it aft to the steward when empty; 
to return with it to the fo'c'sle after he had rilled it; 
bring all the coffee and tea as well as food from the galley 
at meal times for all the watch, sweep up the fo'c'sle 
after meals, and in hot weather wash it out every morning 
after breakfast, although in this he was generally assisted 
by some member of the watch; in short, he was subject 
to the call of any one while off his watch on deck. 

This may seem pretty rough on the boy, but on the 
other hand, where a boy did his work willingly, without 
grumbling, the men were always ready to treat him well, 
teach him the mysteries of knotting and splicing, and 
everything pertaining to the work on shipboard, doing 



16 OCEAN LIFE 

all in their power to instruct and make a sailor of 
him. 

Pulling myself together, I mounted the foVsle ladder, 
which was almost perpendicular, and stepped from the 
hatch, or scuttle, out upon the deck. Since I had gone 
below at midnight the gale had increased, and the " Ariel " 
was now hove to, under a close-reefed main topsail and 
fore topmast staysail, laying over at an angle of many 
degrees, spray flying over her in sheets, decks wet and 
slippery, the wind whistling through her rigging with 
a wail like lost spirits, great waves chasing each other, 
and looking as if they would overwhelm her, while over- 
head; patches of lead-colored clouds were scudding across 
the sky. 

The sight was a grand one, and I stood holding on to 
the fife rail of the foremast, lost in amazement, until 
admonished by a voice from below that if I did not hurry 
and get that grub down I would hear of it when I came 
below. To navigate between the companionway and 
the galley was a problem, but by making short tacks 
and holding on, with the help of one of the deck watch, 
I managed to get the pots of coffee and the " kid " (a 
small tub) of salt beef passed down safely, and was 
about to descend, when I was ordered to go and see if 
the cook had not got something besides " salt hoss " 
for breakfast. 

Returning to the cook, he handed me out a long, broad, 
deep pan, filled to the brim with a compound called 
scouse, consisting of ship bread broken up and soaked 
until soft. This, with salt pork fat and molasses baked 
in the pan, was taken off the stove boiling and seething 
with hot grease. 

Taking hold at each end, I essayed to reach the com- 
panionway, which I finally succeeded in doing, and 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 17 

bending over, and holding out the pan, I called out, 
11 Here, somebody, take it, will you? " 

Old Tom at that moment was directly underneath, 
bending over the " kid," engaged in cutting off, with a 
sheath-knife, a generous slice of beef. Without looking 
up, he growled, in answer to my call to take it, " Oh, 
don't be in a hurry, you cub, wait till somebody's ready 
to take it." 

At this instant the ship gave a heavy lurch, my foot 
slipped, the hot mess ran over and burnt my hand, and I 
let go ! The pan turned over, and with a crash landed on 
poor Tom's head, the scalding compound flying to every 
corner of the fo'c'sle. I was horrified. With a yell like 
a Comanche, old Tom leaped from under, but the mischief 
was done. From all parts of the fo'c'sle came a volley 
of oaths and imprecations that scared me. The urgent 
invitations to come down I respectfully but firmly 
declined, at least until they should become more calm, 
and started to argue it out from the companionway. 
In the meantime the deck watch, having been drawn 
together by the uproar below, were convulsed with 
laughter, evidently regarding it as a great joke. 

It being now near eight bells, I descended the steps, 
but had no sooner landed on the deck than I received a 
tap on the side of the head, which would have knocked me 
across the fo'c'sle, had I not been held up by a tap from 
old Tom on the other side. This was getting too exciting 
to last, however, and eight bells striking, the watch went 
on deck, grumbling at having been deprived of their 
breakfast. I went with them, a discouraged boy, and 
although I was still sick, I was mad, for I felt that I had 
been " licked " for no fault of mine. My determination 
to return home the first chance was strengthened, and 
as the men gathered under the lee of the weather bulwarks, 



18 OCEAN LIFE 

I hung to leeward of the long-boat, keeping out of the way 
as much as possible. 

By four bells (ten o'clock) the gale beginning to mod- 
erate, an order was passed to loose the fore topsail and 
set it close-reefed. Two sailors sprang into the fore 
rigging to lay aloft and execute the order, while the 
remainder busied themselves in throwing down the gear 
and making ready to sheet home when loosed. 

Although I had heard the order given by the second 
mate, I made no response, and as the officer went forward 
I worked my way aft to leeward until I came to the 
after, or booby, hatch, the slide or scuttle of which was 
open, and as I looked down it seemed warm and pleasant 
below in the between-decks. Glancing hastily around, 
and noting I was not perceived, all of the watch with 
Mr. Fabens being busy forward, I slipped over, and 
down the steps to the between-decks, working my way 
forward in the semi-darkness, until I came to the bulk- 
head of the foVsle, on the other side of which were the 
crew's quarters. Through this bulkhead were bored 
auger-holes in diamond shape, for purposes of ventilation, 
thus any conversation carried on either side of the bulk- 
head could be plainly heard on the other. 

Previous to leaving port, all the spare rigging, coils 
of rope, sails, hawsers, and one or two bales of oakum 
had been piled up against this bulkhead, and secured. 
Crawling in over this mass, I stowed myself away in the 
coil of a big hawser that was laid down over some sails, 
and taking a bunch of oakum for a pillow, went soundly 
to sleep. 

The between-decks were dark, all the hatches being on 
except the after one. The slide of that being thrown 
back, admitted light enough for any one to see after 
they grew accustomed to it, but coming suddenly from 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 19 

the upper deck, it was difficult to distinguish objects for 
a time. 

When I awoke it was very dark, save that the rays 
from the foVsle lamp streamed through the holes in the 
bulkhead, and served to render the darkness a little less 
dense. As I lay, half awake, the sound of voices in 
conversation reached my ears. For a few moments I 
could not remember where I was, but gradually it all 
came to me, and listening intently, I gathered the con- 
versation concerned myself, not as a creature of flesh and 
blood, but a boy who had lived and had passed away, 
been drowned, lost overboard. I heard a voice that I 
recognized as Joe's, saying: 

" When did you last see him? " 

" Oh, just as I was going aloft. He was down to lee- 
ward, hanging over the swinging boom. He must have 
gone over with that heavy lurch, when we were all busy 
with the fore topsail, and no one saw him go." 

" Queer he didn't holler," said Bill. " I'm almighty 
sorry, for he was a likely lad and smart, would have 
made a good sailor. Did you see him sending down 
that r'y'l yard, at the dock? " 

" Yes," was the reply, " and the next day was cold 
enough to freeze one, and that bloody second mate had 
that kid aloft slushing down, and I said he ought to be 
ashamed to send that boy aloft to slush down in such 
weather." 

" Well," I heard old Tom chime in, " I'm awful sorry 
I hit him, but the cub scalt every spear of hair out of my 
head." 

" Ah, well," sighed Joe, " he's gone, and perhaps it's 
all right. He'd been like a young bear, all his troubles 
to come." 

With this the subject seemed to be dismissed, and from 



20 OCEAN LIFE 

the sounds I judged the starboard watch had gone to 
sleep, so curling myself up in my hawser, I soon followed 
their example. 

When I again awoke I could hear the deck watch 
washing down. The ship seemed to be very quiet, lying 
over at a gentle angle. As I became fully awake I sud- 
denly realized that I never felt better in my life, and oh! 
so hungry! The despised food of the foVsle, how I 
would have welcomed it! I would have gone on deck 
had I not been afraid of a most unmerciful trouncing if 
I showed myself, but something must be done, for I 
seemed to be literally starving. All at once I remem- 
bered there were some four or five hundred barrels of 
apples in the lower hold, that were being shipped around 
to New York as freight. Why could I not get some of 
those apples? To think was to act. Climbing down into 
the hold, the hatches being off between-decks, and knock- 
ing the head out of a barrel, I filled my pockets and shirt 
all around, climbed out of the hold and into my hawser, 
and ate apples. Oh, how good they tasted! 

After I had eaten my fill, it being yet early, I again 
went to sleep. The storm had been succeeded by fine 
weather, and the ship, under all canvas, was sailing 
steadily towards her destination. 

The starboard watch were on deck. Mr. Fabens, desiring 
to strap a block, called old Tom, and gave him a measure, 
telling him to go below and cut off a piece of rope, as 
per same, which he would find lying against the foVsle 
bulkhead. I had awakened, and was thinking what I 
should do, when I was startled by footsteps slowly 
advancing towards my retreat. I listened with bated 
breath. When the footsteps had about reached me they 
stopped, and I heard a kind of sawing noise. Curiosity 
impelled me to peep out, and see who it was. Lifting my 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 21 

length out of the hawser, I bent over, just as old Tom 
finished cutting off his piece of rope, and as he arose our 
eyes met. I, being on the sails and hawser, came some- 
what above him, and as I, being a little cold, had wrapped 
around me a piece of canvas, I expect my appearance 
was a bit startling. 

With whitened face and bulging eyes he gazed at me 
a moment, terror in every feature, then dropping rope 
and knife, and emitting a series of blood-curdling yells 
that rang through the ship, he dashed for the booby hatch, 
and disappeared on deck. Every one was aroused, and 
I could hear the second mate ask, " What's broke loose 
with you? Where's that block strap? " but for answer 
all old Tom could ejaculate was, " My God, I've seen him! 
I've seen him! " 

" Seen who? " yelled Mr. Fabens, shaking him. 

" Oh! his ghost! his ghost! " 

" Whose ghost? What's the matter with you any 
way? " 

" Oh! that boy's ghost, Mr. Fabens," Tom replied. 

It was plain old Tom was nearly frightened out of his 
wits. 

" Mr. Fabens," said Captain King, " get a lantern, 
take that man below, and see what scared him so." 

Lighting a lantern, Mr. Fabens descended the ladder, 
with half the crew at his back, Tom bringing up the rear. 
As they came forward the second mate called out, 
" Where's your ghost? I don't see any ghost. Where 
did you see him? " 

" Over that hawser," said Tom, pointing in my direc- 
tion. 

Up to now I had lain still, but feeling that I was dis- 
covered, I rose up to step out of the coil. My appearance 
was greeted with, " There he is! There he is!" from 



22 OCEAN LIFE 

Tom, who with a yell again broke for the hatch ladder, 
followed by half the men. 

Mr. Fabens came up, put his lantern in my face, and 
with an exclamation, reached over, and taking me by 
the collar, lifted me out and marched me up on deck, 
where I was at once surrounded by officers and crew, 
the latter gazing at me as if doubtful whether I might 
not be a spook. 

Old Tom, suddenly awakened to the fact that he had 
been fooled, and had made a donkey of himself, started 
towards me, as if about to administer a cuff, when Mr. 
Fabens, shoving him back, exclaimed, " You dare lay 
a hand on that boy and I'll knock your head off! " 

Captain King, stepping forward, now addressed me 
as follows: " Well, boy, where have you been, during 
the past forty-eight hours? " 

" Between decks, sir," I sheepishly answered. 

" What have you been doing between decks all this 
time? " 

" Sleeping, sir," I answered. 

" What! sleeping two days and nights? A mighty 
fine booby you'd make." 

(A booby is a bird that as soon as he alights on a 
vessel drops sound asleep, instantly.) 

" Not all the time, sir," I replied. 

" Had anything to eat? What did you live on? " 

" Apples," I ventured. 

" Apples, where did you get apples? " 

" Out of the hold, sir. I got the head out of a barrel." 

" Oh, you did! Do you know you've been broaching 
cargo? " — and then, evidently thinking the farce had 
gone far enough, as all hands were on the broad grin, 
the Captain said, sternly: — 

" Now go for'ard, boy! and if you cut up any more 



DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 23 

capers like that you'll get a rope's-ending you'll remember 
all your life," and turning to Mr. Fabens, he said, " Keep 
that boy up in his day watch below for a week, and give 
him plenty of work." 

This ended his lecture, and I was glad it was over, 
and that I had escaped so easily. Going forward with 
the men, I was set to work, and, what pleased me, I could 
see they bore me no ill feeling, not even Tom, although 
in his case he might have been excused even had he done 
so a little. They all seemed to show a kinder tone towards 
me; there appearing to be a kind of satisfaction that I 
was not drowned after all. 

Being now all over my seasickness, and feeling strong 
and hearty, I entered upon my work with a vim, and 
soon won the good opinion of all by my willingness. 

Nothing occurred of note until we neared the port of 
New York. On the morning of the eighth day after leav- 
ing Newburyport, we took a pilot on board, and sailing 
in past Sandy Hook, through the Narrows past Staten 
Island, we came to anchor off the Battery. Shortly 
after, a tug came alongside, taking us to the dock, where 
the ship was made securely fast, after which the crew went 
on shore to the sailors' boarding-houses, their time being 
up, they only having signed articles for the run from 
Newburyport to New York. 

From one home port to another to load, it was cus- 
tomary to ship a crew by the run, to pay them a lump 
sum, and not monthly wages, while all the work expected 
of them was to look after the safety of the ship, handle 
sails, steer, keep lookouts, and keep ship clean under the 
direction of the officers, and as they received their pay 
in advance, as soon as the ship reached her port and 
was made fast to the dock, they left. 

This was the last I ever saw of old Tom and many 



24 OCEAN LIFE 

others, although several reshipped with us when we were 
ready for sea; but of this later. 

All now remaining on board were the two officers, — 
Captain King living at his hotel on shore, — the carpenter, 
ship-keeper and myself, but in a few days our number 
was augmented by one, the new boy, from Boston, who 
had been brought on by his mother to join the ship. 

" Abel " was rather older than myself , but not so 
stout, although a good, sturdy boy. He was received and 
welcomed by the carpenter and myself, who, having 
made a voyage, considered ourselves old sailors, and 
assumed a superior tone towards him, a green hand, who 
had not passed through the dangers and perils of the 
sea as we had, and what " yarns " we spun that boy, 
seated in the foVsle on our chests! His hair would almost 
rise, and at times he seriously thought of returning to 
Boston. I now had no thought of going back. There 
was very little for us to do while in port, the days were 
so short. We went up near the head of the wharf and* 
got our meals, seldom going any distance from the ship. 
Meanwhile the cargo, consisting of flour in barrels, was 
rapidly being taken on board. 



CHAPTER III 

1845 - 1846 

THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL. — JACK AFLOAT AND ASHORE 

In due course the " Ariel " completed her lading. A new 
crew was shipped, this time for the long voyage, fifteen 
months being the limit of time as written in the articles, 
and the last of December, 1845, the year of the great 
famine in Ireland, we sailed for Liverpool, England. 

The voyage across the Atlantic was wild and stormy. 
Gale succeeded gale, with furious squalls of snow and 
hail, but being mostly from the western quarter, gave us 
a fair wind, before which the good ship scudded under 
close-reefed topsails and reefed foresail right royally, and 
although a very heavy sea was experienced, no damage 
was sustained; the " Ariel" proving herself a splendid 
sea boat. 

During the passage I never missed my watch on deck 
in all weathers. Abel, however, was not so fortunate, 
being confined to his berth the entire passage, and not 
until we were in St. George's Channel did he make his 
appearance on deck. The officers, being occupied in 
looking after the safety of the ship, gave very little 
attention to him, thinking no doubt, sick as he was, he 
was better below than on deck, in such weather as we 
were having. 

Arriving in the chops of the Channel, we passed a 

25 



26 OCEAN LIFE 

number of vessels, many of them showing the effects of 
the hard winter passage across. 

One, the " Concordia " of the line of New York Packet 
ships, that sailed before we did, had lost some of her spars, 
the cargo (grain) had shifted, and she was listed to port 
very badly. 

The following morning the ship was close in under 
Holyhead, Wales. It opened bright and sunny, though 
cool. The sea was smooth. The great headland, standing 
out in bold relief, with its quaint old windmills, and 
dotted with numerous dwellings, formed a beautiful 
picture, while the many crafts of all descriptions spread 
out in every direction, completed a panorama of wondrous 
beauty, especially so to us boys, who looked upon it for 
the first time. 

Abel made his appearance on deck looking pale, but 
under the invigorating air and surroundings rapidly 
pulled himself together, and at once entered upon his 
duties. That morning ended his seasickness for good. 

One amusing thing in connection with Abel's sickness 
occurred during the passage over. As a general thing 
seasickness meets with very little sympathy in a ship's 
fo'c'sle. The members of the crew do not look with 
pitying eye on the victim of mal de mer. Indeed they 
rather regard him as one inclined to shirk his work, but 
in Abel's case they were very easy with him, and did 
not encourage him to get up and go on deck. This seemed 
strange, as in those days Jack was not inclined to be 
lenient with a green boy, or show him any favors, but 
there was a reason for all this apparent kindness. Abel 
was finely fitted out with plenty of warm clothing, monkey 
jacket, oilskin suits, several pairs of sea boots, sou' westers, 
warm neck comforters, etc., etc. 

Among the crew were several old packet sailors, a 



THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 27 

class who, while good enough seamen, are not over- 
burdened with warm, comfortable clothing, the attractions 
of New York and Liverpool taking all their wages, and 
warm clothing being a secondary consideration with them 
until they get to sea and find themselves on a topsail yard, 
face to face with a wild howling nor' wester, freezing them 
to the marrow, with squalls of snow or hail beating upon 
them, and then they would bemoan the fact that they 
had not taken their hard-earned money, and bought 
what would have benefited them in times like these, 
instead of throwing all away in dissipation; but their 
regrets generally came too late and they rarely gained 
wisdom by experience. 

To these sailors Abel's outfit was a God-send, and they 
did not scruple to help themselves, or to borrow anything 
he had that they could use and wear; arguing that as 
he could not wear them, and they were doing his work, 
the least he could do was to let them wear his clothes. 
His mother never would have recognized a large part 
of his outfit by the time the ship arrived in Liver- 
pool. 

Taking a pilot on board and entering the Irish Sea, 
we reached the lightship that night, and in beating up 
to it with a strong wind we were kept at quarters, making 
short tacks. 

The boys, ordinary seamen and carpenter were stationed 
at the braces of the after yards (the yards on the mizzen- 
mast) to brace round at the command of " Mainsail 
haul! " the carpenter throwing off the braces, while the 
boys swung round the yards. 

The night was dark, and when nearly up to the lightship, 
Abel took a notion that he could assist the carpenter, 
and, unperceived, crossed to the other side of the deck. 
On the order being given to brace round the after yards, 



28 OCEAN LIFE 

he threw off the belaying-pin, not the braces, but the main 
topsail halliards, and down thundered the topsail yard 
upon the cap. 

" Who's let go those topsail halliards? " shouted the 
pilot, and the captain and officers used language that 
would not appear well in print. Abel was scared out of 
his wits, and received a most unmerciful cuffing, while 
all hands tailed on to the topsail halliards, and the yard 
was again mastheaded. 

In the morning we entered the Mersey, passing the 
Rock Light, and at high water docked the ship in the 
" Waterloo," one of the numerous docks in the great 
port of Liverpool. 

Stevedores came on board, and preparations were made 
for the discharge of our cargo. 

At the time of which I write, the rules and regulations 
of the Liverpool docks were very different from what 
they are at the present day. Then no fires or lights were 
allowed on board. On shore, near the docks, were a great 
number of boarding-houses, which catered to the ships' 
trade. Here the crews obtained their meals, and morning, 
noon and night might have been seen the crews of all 
the different ships in port, going and returning to their 
breakfasts, dinners and suppers. 

The days being very short in winter, the men got their 
breakfast by gaslight, returning to their ship by nine 
o'clock, and knocking off work by four, or perhaps earlier, 
in the afternoon, after which the decks were cleaned up, 
and Jack went to supper, being a free man until the next 
morning. 

As there was no light on board, they generally spent the 
evenings in the numerous singing-houses or dance-halls 
that lined the streets adjoining the docks, and here Jack 
found congenial company, both male and female, who, as 



THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 29 

long as he had a shilling, were ready to share his pot of 
beer, " half and half," or something stronger. 

There, in these " free and easys," he smoked his pipe, 
listening to the continuous songs, and the music and 
performance going on, until about the hour of midnight. 
When they closed their doors he wended his way on 
board to turn into his berth in the darkness. 

The mates and petty officers also had their separate 
places of evening resort. The habitues of Playhouse 
Square, the mate's and second mate's quarters, would 
have no more thought of lowering themselves by 
visiting " Rossbottom's " on Waterloo Road, than Bea- 
con Street, Boston, would assimilate with the North 
End. 

The captain, of course, lived at his hotel, and came 
and went at his own sweet will. All these boarding- 
houses set a good table, and Jack lived well, although 
the table in the officers' quarters was superior in the 
quality and variety of the food served. The boys, with 
the carpenter, took their meals at the officers' boarding- 
house, but we did not see them, having a room to our- 
selves. 

We had been but a few days in dock, when Captain 
King came on board one morning, and informed me that 
my uncle (Mr. Wm. Courtis), who lived in Manchester 
with his family and was engaged in business there, had 
written him asking permission for me to visit them while 
the ship remained in port. He added that I could go if 
I wished. Replying that I should be pleased to do so, 
I was exempted from further work, and getting into 
presentable shape by putting on my best clothes, I went 
to the station the following morning and took the express 
to Manchester, arriving about 10.30 a. m. 

Meeting my uncle at the station, he called a cab and 



30 OCEAN LIFE 

we drove to his house, where I received a warm welcome 
from my aunt and two cousins. 

Three weeks in Manchester, visiting, with my uncle 
and his family, all places of interest, made my stay most 
thoroughly enjoyable. On my return I was accompanied 
by him, as he had business in Liverpool. He improved 
the opportunity to visit the ship and make the acquaint- 
ance of Captain King. After his departure I resumed 
my duties and again fell into the routine of ship's boy. 

As it would be a week yet before the " Ariel " would be 
ready for sea, whenever we could get away from the ship, 
I improved the time, with Abel, strolling about, and 
seeing all we could of the city. 

Now came the day of sailing or departure from the 
docks, the ship being bound for Canton, China, in ballast, 
to load teas for the port of New York. 

All being in readiness for sea, stores on board, and two 
men shipped to take the places of two deserters, about 
the middle of March the crew warped the ship through 
the docks into the basin, where she lay waiting for the 
full tide and the tugboat, to proceed to sea. 

The gates being opened, the tugboat made fast, with 
three jlnging cheers responded to by friends of the crew 
who had assembled to see them off, the " Ariel " passed 
through the pier heads into the River Mersey, and was 
again outward bound. 

Down the river, past the shipping at anchor, away 
past the Rock Light at the entrance of the river, into the 
Irish Sea, past Point Linas until Holyhead was reached, 
thus insuring a good offing; when sail was made, the 
tugboat hawsers were cast off, good-bys exchanged, 
and the tow boat took her departure to look up another 
vessel to take into port. 

With a fair wind and rattling breeze, a fine run was 



THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 31 

made down channel, and passing Tusker Light, old 
Kinsale and Cape Clear, we were soon again on the broad 
Atlantic, bound south for the region of the trade winds 
and a warm climate. 



CHAPTER IV 
1846 

CROSSING THE LINE. — FERNANDO NOROHNA. — THE 
MALAYS 

Favored with strong northerly gales, the "Ariel " swept 
past Madeira under reefed topsails, and entered the belt 
of northeast trade winds. The weather was now delight- 
ful, continuous fresh breezes, gradually lessening in force 
as we approached their southern limit. Passing the group 
of Azores Islands, with the Peak of Pico, on the island of 
that name, 7,000 feet in height, and the Canaries, with 
Teneriffe towering above the clouds, we continued on 
until we lost them in latitude 5° north. The region of 
northeast trade winds lies between the parallels of 30° 
north and the equator, although their northern and 
southern limits vary with the seasons; ships sometimes 
carrying strong trades within three or four degrees of the 
equator, and again losing them as high as 10° north. 
Through these trades is most delightful sailing; steady, 
fine, fresh breezes, clear skies, bright and sunny; warm, 
but not too much so, soft patches of light fleecy clouds 
hanging around the horizon, called trade clouds, water 
a glorious deep blue, alive with shoals of flying-fish, 
skipjacks, bonitas and albacore, the former rising in 
immense shoals close to the ship, and with a whirr like 
a covey of partridges away they go skimming to»wind'ard, 



CROSSING THE LINE 33 

their wings glinting and glistening in the bright sunlight 
for a thousand yards or so, when they drop to wet their 
wings, only to reappear in a moment. They formed 
one of the prettiest pictures, that one never wearied in 
watching. 

The flying-fish affords fine eating, having a flavor 
similar to a fresh sardine, and is one of the finest pan fish 
that swims. 

We had now reached the belt of light, variable winds, 
calms and squalls, with thunder, lightning, and heavy 
rains, the last enabling us to fill our empty water casks. 
Fortunately we were not long in crossing this belt, and 
striking the southeast trades in latitude 1° north, we 
crossed the equator and entered the South Atlantic. 
The visit of Neptune and his wife on board was for some 
reason deferred, much to the relief of us boys and the 
carpenter, who was also on his first voyage. 

In the old days it was customary on ships, more par- 
ticularly those flying the British flag, to observe the 
crossing of the line or equator for the first time by any 
one on board, by making it a special occasion, and cele- 
brating it as a gala day. Extra grog was served out to 
the crew, etc. All this was in honor of King Neptune, 
who was to pay a visit to the ship, in company with his 
wife Amphitrite, to see if there were any on board, either 
passengers or crew, who were invading his special domain 
without having been properly initiated. The green hands 
had the fact that they were entering the domain of these 
mythical personage impressed upon them as a reality, 
and for weeks their minds were filled with the terrors of 
the ordeal they would have to pass through. 

The cabin passengers who were liable could purchase 
immunity by money or a few bottles of grog, but woe 
betide the hapless boy, or green hand, who was making 



34 OCEAN LIFE 

his first trip across the equator, old Neptune's home 
and undisputable possession. 

On the morning of the day the ship was to cross the 
line, these unfortunate victims were blindfolded and shut 
up until wanted, but were placed where they could hear 
all that was going on. Preparations were then begun 
for the reception of His Majesty and His Better Half. 
Two old grizzled shellbacks were selected from among 
the crew to act the parts of Neptune and wife. They 
were painted and decked out in the most fantastic garb, 
by the crew. They had long, flowing hair and whiskers 
of rope-yarns and oakum, resembling seaweed, and a 
crown made from Manila strands and shells, scraps of 
steel, or iron. Then with the ship's big trumpet, and 
the five-pronged grains used for catching dolphins or 
skipjacks, as his trident, his outfit was complete. His 
spouse was similarly rigged out. Taking their stations 
over the bows in the head, one of the crew would go out 
to the end of the flying jib boom with the trumpet and 
hail the ship, asking her name and where from, ending by 
stating that His Majesty King Neptune was about to 
pay the ship a visit, and all hands would prepare to receive 
both him and his queen Amphitrite. 

A half-hogshead of water would have been prepared, 
with a platform alongside, on which was a chair for 
seating the candidate for maritime honors. A slush 
bucket filled with an odorous mixture of slush and tar, 
using an old paint brush for a shaving brush, with a piece 
of notched iron hoop for a razor, constituted the shaving 
outfit. 

All being in readiness, the candidate, still blindfolded, 
was led forward and seated in the chair. Neptune and 
Amphitrite would then appear, dripping with sea water, 
which had been previously poured over them to give 



CROSSING THE LINE 35 

them the appearance of just having emerged from old 
ocean. Neptune then propounded to the intruders a 
series of the most ridiculous questions, ending by ordering 
him to be shaved and initiated as one of his children in 
due form; the candidate continuing blindfolded until 
after his involuntary bath. 

Then followed the lathering and shaving, which was 
of a pretty rough order, but if the poor fellow opened 
his mouth to utter a protest, it was instantly filled with 
a brushful of the unsavory lather, amid the delight and 
jeers of his tormentors. The shaving completed, while 
answering questions his chair would be jerked away, and 
he would fall, floundering, into the hogshead of water, 
after which he was allowed to scramble out, would be 
given a stiff glass of grog to drink Neptune's health, be 
permitted to make himself presentable and go his way or 
take part in the initiation of the next victim. The custom 
in these days even on foreign ships has become obsolete. 

Continuing south, close-hauled, we passed in plain 
sight of Fernando Norohna, a small, high island off the 
Brazil coast. That government uses it as a penal settle- 
ment, sending hither all its convicts. Here under vigorous 
discipline they have little chance of escape. 

Past Pernambuco and Bahia we continued along the 
Brazil coast, until we reached the parallel of 23° south, 
and entered the belt of sou'west passage winds. These 
winds blow almost continuously from the western quarter, 
varying from W. N. W. to W. S. W. As the ship draws 
out of the trade belt the wind gradually hauls round by 
way of the north, allowing the vessel to come up to her 
course for the Cape of Good Hope, crossing the meridian 
of the Cape on a parallel of 38° to 40° south and some- 
times higher. 

Being now in the region of the strong west passage 



36 OCEAN LIFE 

winds, the " Ariel " fairly flew before them on her long 
eastern stretch upwards of 5,000 miles, nearly to the coast 
of Australia, before again turning north. 

During this long run from the Cape of Good Hope to 
the rocky islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam, there was 
very little work going on except looking after the ship, 
hands continually standing by the topsail halliards, 
clewing down by the run in the furious hail squalls which 
would come with hurricane force, almost beating one 
to the deck, with sky nearly as black as night. 

This would last perhaps for ten or fifteen minutes, 
when, presto! the squall would pass, clouds sweep away, 
while the sun would appear, lighting up the crest of the 
surges that rolled past. The instant the squall was over 
topsails were again mastheaded, and with great moun- 
tainous billows tumbling after, at times seeming about 
to engulf her, the " Ariel " sped onward like a frightened 
deer. 

Day after day, and week after week, this continued, 
until we reached the meridian, when we could once again 
turn to the north 'ard, and entering the region of the 
trade winds of the Indian Ocean, shape our course for 
Java Head. 

Falling in with the southeast trades, the " Ariel " made 
fine progress, until, coming on deck one morning in the 
middle watch, I found the ship hove to for daylight, but 
with the first peep of dawn she was again put upon her 
course. At ten a. m. (four bells) the welcome cry of 
" Land, ho! " rang through the ship, and all eyes were 
at once strained to catch the first glimpse of terra firma. 
Presently from the deck could be seen the outlines of a 
bold headland, every moment becoming more distinct 
as the ship sped onward towards it. 

All was now bustle and preparation for closing in with 



CROSSING THE LINE 37 

the land and entering the Straits of Sunda. Chain cables 
were hauled on deck after their long rest in the lockers, 
and bent, lashings cast off, and anchors placed on the 
bows. Meantime we were drawing in with the land, and 
from a mere outline it now began to assume shape and 
color. By three o'clock we had closed in with it and 
entered Sunda Straits. 

Sailing northerly along the coast from Java Head, the 
land is high, and covered with dense forests having rich 
tropical foliage. The ship was well in under the shore, 
and I thought I could never tire of gazing at it. 

About dusk the land breeze came off, sweeping over 
the ship, laden with the fragrance of tropical fruits and 
flowers so heavy with perfume as to almost intoxicate 
the senses. This, mingled with the fresh earthy smell, to 
which we had so long been strangers, was inhaled in deep 
draughts. Java Head, and my first night in Sunda Straits, 
remain to-day impressed upon my memory. With day- 
light, boats from Anger met us and dropped alongside, 
while the crews, composed of Malays, scrambled over 
the rails like cats. They were trading boats laden with 
tropical fruits: green cocoanuts, bananas, oranges, 
limes, also vegetables, — yams, sweet potatoes, strings 
of onions and garlic; in short, all vegetables grown in 
the tropics, with ducks, geese, chickens, fowls, goats, 
pigs, and many other things, all tempting enough to men 
who had been deprived of fresh grub as long as we had. 

The Malays comprising the boat crews were a source 
of great interest to me. A small, undersized class of men, 
tawny, with coal-black hair and small, piercing eyes, 
well formed and featured, active and springy, as nimble 
as cats, they sprang from their boats up the ship's side 
and swarmed on board, the captain, or serang, making 
his way aft, where stood Captain King and officers. 



38 OCEAN LIFE 

With a bland smile and salaaming to the deck, be 
presented his " chit " or recommendation given him by 
the ships that he had supplied while passing Anger, and 
endorsing him as the one man who could supply all the 
next ship's needs. There is great rivalry between these 
boats, but as far as the ships are concerned it is generally 
" first come, first served." 

It is amusing to see the serang bowing and smiling while 
the captain is reading over his recommendations, which 
he cannot do himself, in many cases denouncing him as 
a swindling cheat, and the greatest scoundrel that ever 
went unhung. Of course they are mostly written as a 
joke, and are so taken by the reader, and no more notice 
being taken of it, he gets permission to trade, although 
there may be others. This amounts to considerable, 
as, besides fruit and vegetables, live stock is taken on 
board in quantities to supply the ship with fresh pro- 
visions, fore and aft, for the voyage up the China Sea, 
it being more economical, at the prices, to feed the men 
on fresh meat, saving the salt beef and pork; so Jack 
lives high, on fresh grub with vegetables daily. 

The weather being fine, the " Ariel " ran into the road- 
stead, coming to anchor off the town or village. Large 
supplies were taken on board, of fruit, vegetables, and 
live stock. Never before having tasted bananas, and in 
fact very little of fruit grown in the tropics, they were a 
revelation to me, and when the first boat boarded us in 
the early morning, I traded with a Malay an old pair 
of trousers for a big bunch, and, taking it into the 
foVsle, for four or five days I ate little else. 

While at anchor Captain King went ashore in his gig, 
and to my delight I was ordered as one of the boat's 
crew. This gave me an opportunity of seeing a little of 
Malay life on shore. We wandered around among the 



CROSSING THE LINE 39 

houses or huts, constructed of bamboo with thatched 
roofs, while swarms of women and children, the latter 
clad in sunlight only, gazed curiously at us, but we could 
understand each other by sign language alone. 

The following morning getting under way and passing 
between Sumatra and the N. W. end of the island of 
Java, we entered the Java Sea, shaping our course for 
Gaspar Straits. 

The Java Sea and Malay Archipelago were at this 
time infested with pirates, who, in their long, sharp proas, 
were constantly dodging about, looking for some craft 
that should be so unfortunate as to run ashore on any of 
the numerous coral reefs or sand banks that abounded 
in these waters, and woe betide the ship that was caught 
at anchor in the night time in any of the straits, or 
passages, with the watch on deck asleep; in which case, 
although not a thing may have been in sight when she 
came to anchor, towards morning there would silently 
steal out of the darkness a fleet of proas, each manned 
by forty or fifty Malays, perhaps more, and once along- 
side with their deadly creese or knife between their teeth, 
swarming up the ship's side, in a twinkling they would. 
be on deck, and before the dazed watch could realize 
it, those not murdered would be driven below, and the 
ship in their possession, to be plundered and perhaps 
burnt, while all who escaped would be taken on shore, 
kept in confinement and held for a good round ransom. 

Ships in these waters always carried a good armory 
on board, consisting of muskets, pistols, cutlasses, and 
boarding-pikes, and generally two or four large guns on 
deck, in the use of which the crew were carefully trained. 

This did not often occur, however, with American or 
English ships, as the rascals were generally too cautious 
to attack a ship in daylight, or under sail, or one that 



40 OCEAN LITE 

they knew was on the alert. In these days their pirating 
is about over, the men-of-war of the Dutch and English 
governments having about exterminated them, showing 
no mercy. 



CHAPTER V 
1846 

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER. — LOADING TEAS. — 
HOMEWARD BOUND 

Through Gaspar, past Singapore, we continued through 
the China Sea, and in due course came to anchor in the 
Canton River off " Bambootown," Whampoa, a boat 
town on the river some ten or twelve miles below Canton. 
These boat towns are curious. Here people are born, 
live, and die, without hardly ever being on shore, living 
mostly on rice and fish caught from the river. They 
attend on the shipping, doing the washing for the officers 
and crews. 

Coming to an anchor, our sails were smoothly furled, 
and the ship moored for a long stay. 

The following morning a boat was got ready with a 
crew of picked men, and Captain King left for the city 
of Canton, returning in two days and bringing a gentleman 
with him. 

The " Ariel," being in ballast with no cargo to dis- 
charge, was soon ready to receive her cargo of teas, to 
be sent down from Canton in lighters, or cargo boats, 
and in a week or ten days the first boats came alongside, 
and were speedily unloaded, others taking their places 
until our lading was completed. The tea-chests, com- 
posed of whole chests, halves and quarters, neat and 

41 



42 OCEAN LIFE 

clean, were encased in matting and marked with the 
ship's name, " Ariel." 

During our stay the crew were allowed liberty on Sun- 
day, one watch at a time, but there was very little to 
attract on shore, and the crew after one trip preferred 
to remain on board, or visit the crew of the ship " Chi- 
cora," that was anchored within a half-mile. 

Abel and myself were not allowed to go on shore 
at all, it being, in the opinion of the captain, no place 
for boys, and he was right, no doubt, although we 
did not see it in that light, thinking it a great hard- 
ship. 

Our cargo completed, Captain King came down from 
Canton, bringing with him two gentlemen, who were to 
make the home voyage with us as passengers. 

The ship was unmoored, chain hove short, sail made, 
anchor tripped and hove to bows, and with her nose 
pointing down river passed the " Chicora," whose crew 
gave us three hearty cheers, which were responded to 
by our men with a will. 

This time the " Ariel " was homeward bound! 

A pleasant run down the China Sea brought us to the 
Straits of Banca. Through these we passed, coming to 
anchor at night to await for daylight. 

Being now in dangerous waters, a vigilant watch was 
kept for pirates; guns were loaded, and all prepared to 
give them a warm reception should they make us a call, 
but the night passed without seeing anything, and at 
the first peep of daylight we were again under way. 
At Anger, however, I learned that a ship passing Banca 
some two or three days ahead of us had been attacked 
while lying at anchor during the night, but the pirates 
were beaten off, the cook sustaining the loss of an ear 
while giving them a deluge of scalding water from his 



BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 43 

coppers, which he had filled and under which he had 
kept a good fire in anticipation of their attack. 

Here, at Anger, we again stocked up with fruits, vege- 
tables, and live stock of all kinds, for the homeward 
voyage. 

Leaving Java, our decks were filled with coops which 
were stuffed with chickens, fowl, geese and ducks, while 
pigs and goats filled the pens. 

Added to all this, every man forward had his pet 
monkey, sometimes two or three, while cages, hanging 
from every point to which they could be attached, were 
filled with Java sparrows, cockatoos, and birds of every 
variety of plumage; but very few were destined to reach 
New York. 

In addition to the foVsle stock there were two very 
large Sumatra monkeys, of a dirty yellow color, standing 
between three and four feet high. These were kept 
chained in the stern of the long-boat, and belonged to 
the two passengers. Some of the monkeys forward were 
of a good size, but most of them were small. They were 
a source of great amusement, constantly cutting up all 
sorts of antics, and being very mischievous, would steal 
anything they could lay their hands or paws on. As 
Jack did not tie them up, they swarmed all over the ship's 
rigging, and if anything on deck took their fancy, they 
would drop down, seize it, and be aloft again, almost 
impossible to catch, as they would spring from point to 
point, chattering and scolding at a great rate. This 
propensity for thieving cost most of them their lives. 

One day the steward had taken the dinner to the cabin 
table, leaving it to go to the galley. No one was below, 
and it being warm, the skylight over the table was off. 
Two of the larger monkeys were about the after rigging. 
They had apparently been watching the steward, and 



44 OCEAN LIFE 

seeing the coast clear, descended, dropping down through 
the skylight, and seizing a pair of chickens, on which the 
captain and passengers were to dine, they sprang on 
deck, and in a twinkling were aloft, just as the steward 
returned from announcing dinner. On entering the cabin 
the chickens were missed, and looking up, the scamps 
were discovered in the mizzen top, chattering and grin- 
ning, while they looked down at their pursuers. Several 
men had jumped into the rigging to catch them, but their 
efforts were of no avail; the monkeys were too nimble, 
and finally running out on a yard arm, dropped the 
chickens, one going overboard, and the other on deck 
in a condition hardly fit for the captain's table. 

This theft angered Captain King, and sealed their 
doom, for, after finishing in the cabin, the captain and 
passengers brought up their pistols on the quarter-deck, 
and a fusillade began, which picked off monkeys in all 
directions, many going overboard, until not a Jocko 
was seen about the rigging. Then the order was given 
that all monkeys that were not kept tied up should be 
served in the same manner. 

This action of Captain King's almost produced a mutiny. 
The owners of the monkeys that were shot were furious, 
looking upon the action as cruel and unjustifiable, and 
many an oath was registered to get even some day, and 
two weeks after, when we turned to one morning to wash 
down decks, the big monkeys in the long-boat were both 
found dead, having been strangled during the night by 
some one, whom, no one ever knew, although a reward 
was offered for the perpetrator. After this, matters 
quieted down, Jack taking care to keep his pets tied up, 
but most of them succumbed to the bad weather off the 
Cape of Good Hope, and only two reached New York 
safely. 



BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 45 

After leaving Java, Charles Johnson, one of the 
crew, was taken down with fever, and that scourge 
of the East, dysentery. Day after day he grew worse, 
and from a strong, well-built man fell away to a mere 
shadow. 

He had been removed from the close foVsle, and a 
bed was made for him in the bow of the long-boat, where 
he could have plenty of air. He would lie there all day 
long reading his Bible, and when off duty the various 
members of the crew would watch with and read to him, 
when he became too weak to read himself. Everything 
was done for him, but in vain. He was fully at peace 
and longed to go, and one bright, beautiful morning, 
Johnson's soul took its flight. 

After breakfast his wasted body was taken from the 
long-boat, sewn up in his hammock, and placed on a 
plank extending from a cask to the rail amidships. The 
American ensign was placed over him. All being in 
readiness, the main yard was thrown aback, and all 
hands called to bury the dead. Sadly, the crew mustered 
in the ship's waist, grouped around the corpse, with two 
standing at the head of the plank, and one on either side, 
the officers at the head awaiting Captain King, who, 
accompanied by the passengers, presently emerged from 
the cabin door, prayer-book in hand. Advancing, he 
took his station at the head, and read the beautiful 
burial service for the dead at sea. It was a solemn scene, 
and tears glistened in the eyes of many of the crew, for 
Johnson was a favorite with all. 

With the words, " We commit the body to the deep," 
the end of the plank was lifted, and the hammock, 
heavily weighted at the end, slid down, and, with a splash, 
the blue sea closed over all that remained of our ship- 
mate, while the order to " Fill away the main topsail! " 



46 OCEAN LIFE 

brought us back to a realization that all was over, and 
our messmate gone forever. 

We lost one other under the same circumstances, — 
fever and dysentery, — committing him to old ocean ere 
we were up with Madagascar. 

With fine, strong, trade winds bowling us along, passing 
the south end of Madagascar, and later the meridian of 
the Cape of Good Hope, nothing of note, except the two 
deaths before mentioned, occurred during our run through 
the Indian Ocean. Doubling the Cape with a fair wind, 
and hugging the land which was in plain sight from Cape 
Agulhas to Table Bay, the " Ariel " again entered the 
south Atlantic, shaping her course for St. Helena and 
the S. E. trades. 

Up to this point I have made very little mention of the 
work at sea on shipboard. I have often been asked the 
question, " What do sailors have to do at sea, with a fair 
wind and fine weather? " 

To this query I answer: In every well regulated 
ship a sailor has no idle moments, except in his watch 
below, and on holidays; chafing gear, of which there are 
large quantities, is being constantly worn out and has 
to be replaced with new, all of which, in addition to spun 
yarn, sennit, mats, rugs, fancy work for capstan covers, 
and many other things, are made on shipboard by the 
crew, while sail making and repairing, work on standing 
rigging, setting up and turning in, tarring, painting, with 
tricks at the wheel, and lookouts, making and taking in 
sail and attendance to general orders, do not leave much 
spare time on Jack's hands when on duty, and the officer 
who cannot find work enough to keep his men constantly 
employed is lacking in a knowledge of his business. 
This was not often the case at the time of which I write. 

The " Ariel's " rigging being new on her departure 



BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 47 

from her home port, it took about all the outward voyage 
to get the stretch out of it, while luff, and watch tackles, 
were in almost constant use, but now being pretty well 
out, it was ready to be turned in afresh, and put in a 
condition that is pleasing to a sailor's eye, also to present 
a fine, shipshape appearance on arrival in port. To one 
not versed in these matters, it is almost impossible to 
understand the labor and care bestowed upon every little 
detail of this work, and from the time we rounded the 
Cape and took the S. E. trades it was all hands at work, 
no more afternoon watch below. 

Up to this time I had never been allowed to take my 
regular turn at steering the ship, although I had often 
stood at night on the lee side of the wheel, and in good 
weather I frequently steered the ship by the hour together, 
under the guidance and eye of the helmsman. I knew the 
compass, and could box it (repeat it backward) as readily 
as I could count my fingers, but had never been left alone 
in charge of the wheel. I was now ordered to take my 
regular trick, the same as others of the ship's company, 
being often kept at the wheel four hours, instead of 
two, when the one who followed me was engaged on 
some special work. 

I loved to steer the ship, and in a short time became 
an expert helmsman. What glorious weather one experi- 
ences within the limits of these trade winds ! — a long 
swell that kept the " Ariel " gently rolling from side to 
side, the wind being nearly dead aft, steady trades, not 
varying a half-point day after day and week after week, 
no squalls, no sails to trim, only an occasional pull at 
the halliards to bowse everything taut, wind not over 
strong, but enough to bowl the ship along from seven 
to eight knots per hour, a cloudless sky o'erhead, with 
the exception of the light fleecy trade clouds that con- 



48 OCEAN LIFE 

stantly hung around the horizon, and bright, warm sun- 
shine every day, while the nights were resplendent with 
the brilliancy of the constellations of the southern hemi- 
sphere. This was indeed ideal sailing. The sunrises and 
sunsets were beautiful almost beyond description, and 
often, while at the wheel, I would become so absorbed 
in watching the glory of the departing day, with its gor- 
geousness of color, as old Sol sank to his ocean bed, that 
I would almost forget my duties until a glance at the 
compass would bring me to a realization that the " Ariel " 
was from a half to a point off her course. 

Under a cloud of canvas, with stun'sails spread alow 
and aloft, the ship swept steadily on, passing close to St. 
Helena, that small rocky islet, distinguished as being 
the prison home of the great Napoleon, on, past Ascension 
Island, until we again crossed the equator, and entered 
the home waters of the north Atlantic. 

During all this long run, the work of the crew upon 
the rigging went steadily on. I was placed under the 
various members of the crew, while at their respective 
tasks, acting as an assistant or helper, soon becoming 
quite proficient in the knowledge of knotting, splicing, 
and serving, etc., picking up from the men, by close 
observation and attention to the manner of doing their 
work, the knowledge that is so necessary to a thorough 
seaman. Herein lies the advantage of long voyages to 
the young man commencing a seafaring life. He may 
go a lifetime in the western ocean trade or on short 
voyages, and yet see none of the work that is done on a 
ship bound home from India or China, while rolling down 
the trades between the Cape of Good Hope and the 
equator, or very little of it, much less participate in it. 
All this work on vessels making short trips is generally 
done by riggers while lying in port, and their work does 




LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA, PRISON HOME OF NAPOLEON 




BOTOFOGO BAY, AND PEAKS OF GABIA AND CORCOVADA, RIO DE 
JANEIRO [Sec paye 268 



BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 49 

not carry the neatness of detail and finish of that done 
on shipboard. Look over a ship fresh from the rigger's 
hands, and one just in from Calcutta or Hongkong, 
and the eye quickly notes the difference between the 
two in the appearance of their rigging. 

All through this fine weather, during my forenoon watch 
below, I was obliged to go aft and study navigation. In 
this I became quite interested, getting a good theoretical 
knowledge of the rules, and in a short time could keep 
dead reckoning, work the latitude by a noon observation 
and longitude by chronometer time, but was not allowed 
as yet to handle the quadrant or sextant, or take an 
observation myself, which I longed to do, and mentally 
resolved that on my next voyage I would have a quadrant 
of my own. 

Encountering no calms, we passed from the S. E. to 
the N. E. trades of the north Atlantic, every day's run 
bringing us nearer New York, while at night the single 
stars and constellations greeted us like old familiar faces, 
the North Star bidding us the first welcome as it twinkled 
on the horizon's edge. At each watch below, especially 
the dog-watch, the conversation was principally on future 
plans when they should arrive in New York, whom they 
would board with, where they would go, and how dispose 
of their wages, — which amounted to a good round sum 
by this time, — interspersed with reminiscences of past 
experience. 

Being now fairly within the trades, came " rattling 
down," tarring rigging, and painting ship outside and in. 
This work completed, we were now north of the West 
India Islands, fast approaching the latitude of Bermuda. 
Here we looked for a change of weather, and thick clothing 
was got out and overhauled. Each night, as the watch 
gathered in the fo'c'sle, would be repeated the old couplet: 



50 OCEAN LIFE 

" If Bermuda let you pass, 
Look out for Cape Hatteras." 

It seemed to be a fixed fact that we were bound to 
catch a big gale off one or the other, but there is another 
old saying, " A watched pot never boils," so, in this 
case anticipating both, we got neither, but favored by 
strong southerly and westerly winds, with good clear 
weather, the " Ariel " passed the Gulf Stream and struck 
soundings in seventy fathoms. 

Chains up, anchors were again got ready, and the 
following night we took a pilot on board, and before 
reaching the Highlands of Navesink we took a tugboat, 
passed the Hook and Staten Island, where the quarantine 
officers boarded but did not detain us, and finally dropped 
anchor off the Battery, our long voyage ended. 

Sails having been unbent on our way up in tow of 
the tug, we were speedily placed alongside of the pier 
in the East River. 

No sooner were we berthed than the runners from 
the various sailor boarding-houses swarmed on board to 
induce the men to put up with them, each one extolling 
the merits of his own particular house, — frequently 
enforcing his claims with spirited arguments in the shape 
of a small flask drawn from the hip pocket, — and in 
less than an hour the ship was deserted by all save the 
officers, the carpenter, Abel, and myself. 

The following morning the captain left word on board 
that the crew would be paid off the next day. This over, 
I accepted an invitation from Captain Michael Gregory, 
of Marblehead, with whom I had fallen in, to make the 
trip to Boston on his vessel, the brig " Mary Ellen," 
and the following morning, bidding adieu to the " Ariel," 
I went on board the brig, sailing that afternoon through 
Hell Gate and Long Island Sound, past Nantucket, over 



BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 51 

the shoals, rounded the Highland Light, and after a 
little brush in the bay arrived safely in Boston. Taking 
the train to Marblehead, I met on my arrival with a 
warm welcome from my sister and the family, but learned 
with sorrow of my grandmother's death. 

My old schoolmates gave me quite an ovation, regard- 
ing me as one to be envied, having made a voyage to 
Europe and China, being absent over a year. 



CHAPTER VI 
1846 - 1847 

RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN. — OTAHEITE 

A month on shore, and I shipped as ordinary seaman 
on the " Tsar," a fine ship of nearly seven hundred tons, 
just home from Russia, where the ship had been presented 
with a set of silk colors by the Emperor Nicholas I., 
as a compliment for the name. Her first voyage com- 
pleted, she was bound to the north and south Pacific, 
thence to China. At that time she was considered a large 
ship, carrying a crew of twenty forward, — including two 
ordinary seamen, and four boys making their first voyage, 
— captain (Captain Samuel Kenneday), first and second 
officers, cook, steward, and carpenter, twenty-six all 
told. 

Sailing from Boston, in the spring of '46, the " Tsar " 
made a good run to the equator, crossing the same and 
taking the S. E. trades (fresh), arrived at Rio Janeiro 
forty-five days from Boston. 

The land from Cape Frio to the entrance of the bay 
runs about east and west, Cape Frio being a very high 
headland, surmounted by a fine lighthouse. The coast, 
as one approaches the entrance of the bay, bears a strong 
resemblance to the figure of an immense man lying upon 
his back, the peaks of the Gabia and Corcovada with the 
high hills forming the upper portion of the body, while 

52 



RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 53 

the Sugar Loaf Mountain on the west side of the bay forms 
his feet. The contour is perfect when viewed from the 
right direction. Off the entrance lie two small islands 
named Pai and Mai. The bay of Rio Janeiro is one of 
the largest and finest in the world. I shall have occasion 
to refer to the city and its noble bay later on. The scenery 
as viewed from the ship was magnificent. 

Failing to reach the entrance before the sea breeze 
ended, we were obliged to remain outside the harbor all 
night. About 8 p. m. the land breeze struck off in a strong 
gust, with squalls of wind and rain, accompanied with 
peals of thunder and vivid lightning, clearing away 
after midnight, followed by calm. 

Taking the sea breeze in the morning, passing the 
islands and Sugar Loaf on the port hand, the fort of 
Santa Cruz on our right, — from which we were hailed 
as to the port we came from, if all were well on board, 
etc., — thence past the upper forts, we dropped anchor 
opposite the city a little below the island of Cobras, 
where one of the finest dry docks in the world, belonging 
to the Brazilian government, is now located. Here the 
doctor came on board, but finding no sickness, and a 
clean bill of health, admitted her to pratique, allowing 
communication with the shore. 

Quite a number of vessels lay at anchor, among them 
several men-of-war. They were of different nationalities, 
and I noted the American flag floating from many peaks. 

While in port no one visited the shore except the 
captain. I was one of the boat's crew but was not allowed 
to leave the boat while waiting for him. 

After a stay of four days, the anchor was again weighed, 
and taking advantage of the land breeze early in the 
morning, we took our departure from Rio Janeiro, answer- 
ing the hail from Santa Cruz, and outside of Pai and Mai 



54 OCEAN LIFE 

Islands caught the sea breeze again and were speeding 
our way south. 

Off the Rio de la Plata we experienced a strong pam- 
pero, which blew with great force. These pamperos are 
violent gales that sweep the plains of Buenos Ayres. 
They are preceded by heavy thunder and most vivid 
lightning, and on shore by a dense cloud of fine impalpable 
dust, — that would penetrate anything that water would 
go through, — with hailstones of a very large size, or 
heavy rain. 

After passing the parallel of 40° south, the " Tsar " 
was put in condition to encounter heavy weather off 
the Cape. Best sails were bent and new running gear 
rove. In the foVsle, warm, thick clothing was got out 
and overhauled and the conversation in the watch below 
savored of past experiences off the stormy Cape. 

With the exception of a little brush off the Patagonian 
coast, all went well, and passing the Falkland Islands, 
we sighted Staten Land, an island lying east of Tierra del 
Fuego (Land of Fire), the strait between being called Le 
Maire. 

Staten Land is an island of considerable size and heavily 
wooded, but uninhabited. 

Rounding the east end with a fair wind, with every 
stitch of canvas drawing, we sped on for Cape Horn, 
hoping to round it without a. setback, but, alas, for our 
hopes, there was no such luck in store for us. 

Away in the southwest loomed up an ominous bank 
of whitish gray mist, sweeping down upon us. All hands 
were called, light sails clewed up and handed in a hurry, 
topsail halliards let go by the run, reef tackles hauled 
out, while buntlines and spilling-lines were bowsed 
taut. The ship paid off as it burst upon us butt end 
foremost, and ere we could jump into the rigging a cold, 



RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 55 

icy blast with sleet and hail fairly whistled and howled 
about our ears, as we laid aloft and out upon the yards. 
This was our first touch of Cape Horn that we were not 
likely to forget. With the hardest kind of work, it was 
upwards of an hour ere we could get the close reefs in, 
and courses furled, but all having been made snug, our 
watch went below, chilled through to the marrow, and 
substituted warm and dry for wet clothing, a most 
agreeable change. Meantime the sea had risen, and the 
great waves, driven before the gale, gave an idea of what 
a Cape Horn sea, that I had so often heard talked about 
in the foVsle, was like. 

We were now headed to the south'ard, close-hauled, 
under close reefs. From this time on, gale followed gale, 
with short intervals of favoring winds, taking advantage 
of which, and every slant, at the end of two weeks we 
had worked up to the meridian 80° west, when with a 
fine, strong, sou' west gale, the " Tsar " bore away to 
the north'ard with all the canvas the ship could stagger 
under. Bidding Cape Horn a long farewell, with no 
regrets, we fairly flew towards more genial weather and 
a warmer climate. 

During our sojourn off the Cape the ship was constantly 
surrounded by great numbers of birds, — albatrosses, 
Cape Horn pigeons, Mother Carey's chickens (stormy 
petrel), who followed the ship day after day, hanging 
around for anything in the shape of food thrown over- 
board. They would drop like a shot from a gun and 
pounce upon it. Our men caught several with hooks 
baited with a piece of salt pork, but once on deck they 
were ungainly and clumsy as they waddled about before 
they were again given their freedom. No injury is done 
to them, except viewing them at close range, sailors 
believing that killing or injuring these birds bodes ill 



56 OCEAN LIFE 

luck. Sailing through the air, poised over the ship, or 
riding the billows, they present a most graceful appear- 
ance. They followed the ship for many days after we 
bore away north, and we finally dropped them after 
crossing the parallel of 40° south. 

The " Tsar " was now in the south Pacific, with smooth 
sailing, delightful weather, and fine trade winds, heading 
for the Society Islands, Otaheite, the largest of the 
group, being our destination. I was very much interested 
in these islands, having read in my school days the 
" Mutiny of the Bounty," a ship sent out by the English 
government to make a collection of the bread-fruit trees 
to take to the West Indies. The book contained a fasci- 
nating description of Otaheite, or Tahiti, as it is more 
commonly called. 

These islands of the South Pacific always possessed a 
great attraction for me, particularly Tahiti and Moorea. 
At this time Tahiti was a French possession, that govern- 
ment having made it a naval rendezvous. 

One fine morning the welcome cry of " Land, ho! " 
greeted our ears, and ere long Tahiti and Moorea were 
in plain sight. 

Beautiful Otaheite! well named the " Garden of the 
Pacific! " It would take a more able pen than mine to 
describe your charms! 

High, commanding, it rises out from the waves, its 
hills and vales clothed with rich, tropical foliage, a 
living green in strong contrast with the sparkling blue 
waters of the Pacific, encircled with a coral reef upon 
which breaks the long ocean swell, a snowy white, while 
beyond lie the still, quiet waters of the harbor of Papatee, 
the port of Tahiti, its entrance being a narrow channel 
through the reef. 

As we approached nearer a native came on board to 



RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 57 

pilot the ship into the harbor, where we dropped anchor, 
off the town, just as the sun was setting. 

Sails were furled and decks cleared up, while until 
gun-fire (eight o'clock) the ship was surrounded by canoes 
with natives anxious to trade. There were visits to 
our officers from the officers of the French man-of-war 
to inquire where from and what news. 

Ere darkness settled down I had an opportunity to 
look at our surroundings, a most beautiful picture. The 
harbor of Papatee nestles down by the side of a high 
mountain, the beach forming a crescent, the horn on the 
seaside being a long point bearing the name of Point 
Venus. It is covered with magnificent cocoa palms 
extending all around the beach in front of the town. 
This beach is a pure white sand, and just in the rear, 
among the waving palms, orange and banana trees, could 
be seen the pretty white cottages of the French and 
English residents, not many at that time, mingled with 
the picturesque thatched huts of the natives. Some little 
distance back stood the government house, a more pre- 
tentious dwelling, also the residence of the native queen, 
Pomare. 

The whole scene, lighted up with the glory of the 
departing day, formed a picture of rare beauty. 

The anchor watch was set, but it was late that night 
ere I closed my eyes in slumber. 

The next morning was the Sabbath, and we were 
turned out at daylight to wash down decks and put the 
ship in shape for a holiday appearance, visitors being 
expected from shore. Stationed at the head pump on 
the to'gallant foVsle, I had ample leisure to look around. 

In the morning light the scene was beyond compare. 
The mountains and the hills were bathed in the soft 
light of the coming day, and the glowing, richly tinted 



58 OCEAN LIFE 

clouds that encircled them. The lighter green of the 
hillsides contrasted with the deeper shades of the valleys 
and the graceful foliage of the waving palms that extended 
around the beach. The groves of orange trees bending 
with their golden fruit, mingled with the breadfruit 
trees, and the banana with its great green leaves, while 
the morning breeze, laden with the breath of flowers, 
came from the shore, distilling a fragrance rarely inhaled 
in other lands. 

Just as the sun was rising, while drinking in the scene, 
music from out the groves came to our ears borne on the 
breeze, not loud and harsh, but exquisitely soft, in com- 
plete harmony with the surroundings. The effect was 
indescribable. For an hour the band played, being 
stationed in the groves adjoining the government house. 
I afterwards learned it was the band of the French troops 
quartered at Tahiti. Every evening and on Sunday 
mornings they played the most exquisite music. 

At eight bells all our colors were thrown to the breeze, 
with the American ensign at the peak, and the union 
jack floating from the jackstaff on the bowsprit. 



CHAPTER VII 
1847 

SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU. — CALIFORNIA GOLD 
FEVER 

After breakfast, the port watch asked for and received 
liberty to go on shore for the day, with orders to be at 
the beach at sunset, when the ship's boat would take 
them off. Every man was given a few dollars as liberty 
money, and after washing up and putting on our best 
shore togs, we were landed on the beach by a boat's 
crew of the starboard watch, who then returned to the 
ship. 

After landing, the men separated in knots of twos 
and threes, wandering through the town, scraping ac- 
quaintance with the natives, buying fruit and knick- 
knacks, consisting of rare and curious shells, beautiful 
bunches of coral, sea-fans, embroidered tappa, cloth made 
from the fibres of the cocoanut husk, and many other 
curios. 

Tattooing was a fine art in these islands. In those 
days it was almost universal among sailors, to a greater 
or less extent. It was not long before the crew found an 
old native who was a past master in the art, and before 
the ship sailed I do not think there was a member of the 
crew upon whom he had not exercised his skill. The 
specimens of his work on my arms to-day, although 

69 



60 OCEAN LIFE 

nearly sixty years have elapsed, are as fresh and bright 
as when first put in. 

In operating the patient lay on his back on the floor of 
the hut, with his arm bared and outstretched. Old 
Bob's instruments were a stick, six or eight inches long, 
with small sharks' teeth inserted or bound to one end, 
in ones, twos, fours or sixes. Another stick, equally 
long, was used as a tapper. The ingredients were India 
ink and vermilion. Squatting down beside the arm, 
or whatever part he intended to operate on, he would 
draw his design, generally a ship, a cocoanut tree, a 
mermaid, or a picture taken from some novel that he 
had managed to get hold of, such as " Ethwild the Female 
Pirate," or of that class. 

Taking his stick with the keen sharp points in one 
hand, and the tapper in the other, he would follow the 
lines drawn upon the skin, tapping, tapping, the blood 
flowing at each stroke. Every little while he would stop, 
wipe off the blood, and rub in the India ink or vermilion. 
This operation was continued until the design was com- 
pleted. The arm would swell, and be very sore for a 
few days; perhaps it would be a week before it felt all 
right, but I never heard of any serious results attending 
the operation. 

In company with the ordinary seaman and the two 
oldest boys, Barnum W. Field of Boston and Alfred 
Currier of Salem, after strolling around for awhile we 
shaped our course for a cruise into the groves back of 
the town. Following a beaten path, and coming to a 
spring of sparkling, cold water, we reclined in the shade 
of a large orange tree, with guavas and bananas in pro- 
fusion around us, and having eaten our fill of these 
delicious fruits, we lay back, listening to the murmur of 
the spring and the soft breeze singing in the tree-tops, 



SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 61 

and falling asleep, did not wake until the sun was well 
down its western slope, when we started for the town 
to be in time for the boat that was to take us aboard at 
sunset. 

At the beach we found about all the watch assembled, 
one or two arriving at the last moment. Comparing notes, 
all voted that they had enjoyed their outing hugely. 
I am sure we did ours, every moment of it. On the arrival 
of our boats we were rowed on board and reported in 
good time, thus ending our first liberty day at Tahiti. 

The next morning hatches were taken off, and the 
work of overhauling our cargo commenced, as part was 
to be discharged here, and the balance at Honolulu, 
Sandwich Islands. 

As one of the boat's crew I spent a great part of the 
time on shore, or making trips between the ship and shore. 
When there was leisure, we would let the boat lie, looking 
over the sides, where the bottom could be plainly seen 
through the clear, glassy water, many fathoms deep, the 
waving sea-fans of bright colors, and branches of white 
coral, through which myriads of fish of almost every hue 
swam, reminding me of Percival's lines: — 

" Deep in the wave is a coral grove, 
Where the purple mullet and gold fish rove, 
Where the sea flower spreads its leaves of blue 
That never are wet with the falling dew, 
But in bright and changeful beauty shine 
Far down in the deep and glassy brine." 

It seemed as if I never would tire of gazing into the 
depths and admiring the forms of life therein. 

The natives were fine specimens of the human family; 
the male portion of good height and build, and finely 
featured, complexion a light olive, hair wavy and black. 
The women were, up to the age of twenty-five, generally 



62 OCEAN LIFE 

very handsome, with a free, upright carriage. -As they 
moved along they appeared, in their light, flowing drapery, 
as graceful as swans. 

The Society Islands were discovered by the Spanish, 
in 1606, and visited by Captains Wallace and Cook in 
1767 and 1769. In 1842, a few years before this, my first 
visit, they were taken under French protection. The 
wind'ard group was annexed in 1880, and the leeward 
in 1885. 

As the native population had been in revolt against 
the French, a military force was deemed necessary to 
overawe them. 

Our stay at Tahiti covered the space of nearly six 
weeks, when, having put ashore all that portion of our 
cargo to be landed here, the anchor was weighed, sail 
made on the ship, and passing out through the reef, we 
bade a regretful adieu to fair Tahiti, shaping our course 
for Oahu, Sandwich Islands. How little I thought as I 
watched it sink beneath the horizon, that ere a few months 
had passed I should again revisit it, but under different 
conditions. 

A pleasant run of some three weeks brought us in 
sight of the island of Hawaii, the largest and most southern 
of the Sandwich group. The lofty peak of Mauna Loa, 
an active volcano nearly 14,000 feet in height, first 
appears high up above the horizon. Passing Maui, 
Molokai, and the smaller islands of the group, we sighted 
Diamond Head, a high, bold headland, the most southern 
point of the island of Oahu. East and north some twenty 
miles lay our destination, the port of Honolulu. 

The Honolulu of to-day is vastly different from the 
same place sixty years ago. These islands were united 
into a kingdom under Kamehameha first in 1791, Ameri- 
can missionaries settled there in 1820, and the first 



SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 63 

treaty with the United States was made in 1826. The 
first constitution was proclaimed in 1840, and a reciprocity 
treaty practically establishing free trade with the United 
States was ratified in 1875. In 1893, the monarchy was 
abrogated, and four years later a republic was established. 
In 1902, the republic, under the title of Hawaii, was 
annexed as a territory to the United States of America. 

Closing in with the land, we hauled the main yard aback 
off the town, outside the reef, with the union jack at 
the fore, a signal for the pilot. 

He soon appeared, in a whale-boat, coming through 
the channel in the reef, pulled by a crew of Kanakas, 
as the natives of all these islands are called. Once aboard, 
I was surprised to learn that he was a Marblehead man, 
Captain John Meek, who had settled in the islands, 
married a native woman, and had reared a large family 
of children, some of the boys being well grown. At this 
time he held the position of government pilot. Under 
his guidance we passed through the reef safely, and entered 
the fine natural harbor, formed by a lagoon, having a 
depth of from three and a half to five fathoms, and 
bounded seaward by the reef, with its snowy surf line. 

At this time there were no wharves. The " Tsar," 
having been hauled in and moored stern on to the beach, 
discharged her cargo into lighters. 

There was a large number of vessels in port, nearly all 
being ships and barques engaged in the whaling business, 
and, the season over on the nor'west coast, they had called 
at Honolulu to refit for a cruise for sperm-whales on the 
equator, or the coasts of Peru and Chile. 

Oahu was a great whaling rendezvous, where all the 
fleet called, both going and returning from the northern 
whaling grounds, and Honolulu was a lively place, with 
the harbor full of whale-ships, many lying outside the reef. 



64 OCEAN LIFE 

After the work was done on board, i. e. putting all 
rigging and gear in order, tarring and painting, all this 
work being done in port, on a whale-ship, the crew were 
given liberty in alternate watches, day after day, as long 
as the ship remained in port, each man receiving liberty 
money, from one to two dollars each. This would go a 
long way if properly managed. Horseback riding was in 
great vogue. A steed, with saddle, could be hired for from 
fifty to sixty cents an afternoon, and it was glorious fun 
for Jack, who generally got all there was in it. While 
we were hard at work, on the " Tsar," day after day, 
boat-load after boat-load would pass the ship on their 
way to the shore to enjoy their outing, until I began to 
imagine that life on a whaler must be very pleasant. 
To be sure, we were allowed to go on shore in the evening 
and on Sundays, generally improving the opportunity, 
but that was not in the daytime, when we could go 
horseback riding, and see the country outside of the town. 

While lying here a brigantine came into port and 
anchored close to us. She was named the " Elmira," 
flying the English flag, and a more beautiful craft I have 
never seen, but a sad tragedy had occurred. She sailed 
from Mazatlan, bound for China, and her crew was com- 
posed of Spaniards, negroes, and other hard characters 
picked up on the coast, a captain, first and second officers, 
a carpenter (a Scotchman) and two apprentice boys. 
She was in ballast, but had on board a half a million of 
specie. In the vicinity of the islands the crew mutinied, 
and took possession of the brig, killing all on board except 
the carpenter and the two boys. After all was over they 
got hold of the liquors in the cabin, and entered upon a 
grand carouse. While part of them lay in a drunken 
sleep, the carpenter and boys attacked them, " Chips " 
with his broadaxe taking the lead. They succeeded in 



SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 65 

killing all the mutineers, throwing their bodies over- 
board, but, in the melee a big fellow got one of the boys 
partly over the rail, and was in the act of plunging his 
knife into him, when the carpenter rushed upon the 
assailant, severing his arm with the axe and afterwards 
braining him. Again in possession, one of the boys 
navigated the brig to Honolulu, and arriving safely, she 
was taken charge of by the British consul. Many years 
after, when I was in Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, I 
saw the same brig, then running as a government mail 
packet between the Falkland Islands and Montevideo, 
S. A. 

Having discharged the balance of our cargo, instead of 
proceeding to China in ballast, Captain Kenneday chartered 
to load oil home to New Bedford, the hold being made 
ready to receive oil casks, instead of tea chests from a 
China port as we had anticipated. 

We had partly completed our lading, when Honolulu 
was thrown into a whirl of excitement, by the arrival of 
the native schooner " Kamehameha " from the coast, with 
the news of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mills in 
California. All who could were getting ready for a trip 
to San Francisco and the gold diggings. Everything 
in the shape of sailing craft was chartered and loaded with 
provisions, or what would pay best, and packed with 
passengers, who were charged the most exorbitant rates 
for passage. Every night that we were on shore my 
ears were filled with the wildest stories of gold discoveries, 
— fortunes made in a month, — until I caught the gold 
fever in earnest, and secretly resolved that when the ship 
was ready for sea I would run away, and manage to work 
my way to San Francisco. Keeping my own counsel, 
I made friends with two boat-steerers of the whale-ship 
" Samuel Robertson ;; of Fairhaven, who advised me 



66 OCEAN LIFE 

not to leave until the night before the ship was to sail, 
then get aboard their ship about two in the morning, 
when they would stow me away until after the " Tsar " 
left port. This plan I successfully carried out. Separating 
from my companions about the time they were getting 
ready to go on board, I lingered about until all was 
quiet, then borrowing a whale-boat that was lying on 
the beach, without hunting around for the owner, I 
paddled off under the bows, climbed on board by the 
anchor chain, and gained the to'gallant fo'c'sle, from 
thence descending to the main deck. All was quiet. 
No anchor watch was kept in port; not a soul to be seen 
on deck. Descending into the fo'c'sle, I got my clothes- 
bag, and returning on deck, lowered it into the boat, 
then making the rope fast, I slid down, and casting off, 
said good-by to the " Tsar," and paddled on board the 
" Samuel Robertson," that lay but a short distance from 
the ship. James Barrett, one of my friends, was on the 
lookout and took me below, where I was stowed away 
in a locker in the forepeak, remaining there until the 
" Tsar " sailed the following afternoon. 

Coming on deck before she was out of sight, I watched 
her until hull down. As she sank below the horizon, a 
feeling of sadness stole over me. I realized that it was 
the severing of the chain that connected me with home. 
But this feeling did not last long, for I was naturally of 
a buoyant and sanguine temperament. Barnum W. 
Field, a Bostonian, one of our ship's boys, had left pre- 
viously, with the consent of Captain Kenneday, entering 
the large mercantile house of Charles W. Brewer & Co. 
of Honolulu as clerk. At the time I commanded the 
" Danube," in 1863, I again met him in New York; he 
was then the head of a large house dealing in western 
produce. 



SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 67 

Finding it impossible, with my limited means, to secure 
a passage to San Francisco, I shipped on the " Samuel 
Robertson," for a cruise on the equator to fill up with 
sperm-oil, thence around Cape Horn home. She was 
nearly full, and a few whales would enable her to fill 
up. She had been out from Fairhaven three years, 
making a most successful voyage. 

Having signed articles, for a fortnight I had all the 
liberty I wished for. Each day one watch would go on 
shore, receiving a dollar, as liberty money, while on board, 
the watch would lay around, doing whatever pleased them. 

Accustomed, as I was, to the strict discipline of a 
merchantman, this was indeed a change, but finally, 
taking our departure, we ran down to Hawaii, where we 
took on board live stock, yams, sweet potatoes, fruit, 
etc., after which the ship bore away to the southward 
for the whaling grounds. 

This was an entirely new phase of life, differing greatly 
from that to which I had been accustomed. After leaving 
port the boats' crews were chosen, and I was allotted to 
the first mate's, a large, seven-oared boat, while all the 
others were but five. The boat's crew consisted of a boat- 
header, who was either the captain, first, second, third 
or fourth officer, and the boat's crew of five, or seven, 
including the boat-steerer, who pulled the harpooner or 
bow oar. 



CHAPTER VIII 

1847 - 1849 

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI. — ESCAPE TO THE 
HILLS. — DINNER IN THE FRENCH RESTAURANT 

Ten or twelve days out we sighted our first whales. 
"There she blows!" came from the lookout stationed 
at the royal masthead, while to the demand: 

" Where away? " came the response: 

" Four points off the lee bow, sir! " 

Instantly all was excitement. Captain Turner, seizing 
a powerful marine glass, sprang into the rigging, and 
quickly ascended to the lookout, from whence in a few 
moments came the order: 

" Keep her off four points! " 

This was speedily done, and the yards checked in. 

There were many hands to do the work, the ship having 
a crew of thirty-six, exclusive of officers. Shortly we could 
see from the deck a large school of sperm-whales, heading 
eastward, swimming slowly along, little anticipating the 
reception being made ready for them. Meantime the 
officers, with their respective crews, were seeing that 
the whaling gear in each boat was in readiness for lower- 
ing. In fact, the gear of a whale-boat when on whaling 
ground is looked after daily. Harpoons and lances are 
as bright and sharp as razors. Line-tubs are over- 
hauled, and every kink and turn taken out of the line 

68 



WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 69 

before being coiled down in the tub, when it is as supple 
as silk. 

Water " breakers " are kept filled, and a lantern keg, 
with a small supply of biscuit, etc., always ready. 

When we were but a short distance from them, the 
school sounded. The main topsail was now thrown 
aback, and all made ready for lowering. Though intensely 
exciting, everything was done very quietly, so as not 
to alarm the whales. Presently the school broke water 
about an eighth of a mile astern, and in less than three 
minutes every boat was in the water, and headed for 
the whales, while every pound of strength that was in 
the muscles of the crews was thrown into the oars, until 
the boats fairly flew through the water. 

Just before we reached them, our boat being in the 
lead, the school again sounded. Lying on our oars, a 
sharp lookout was kept for their reappearance. In 
fifteen or twenty minutes they again broke water. No 
sooner were they sighted than the boats were after them, 
and shortly the harpooner was ordered to stand up. I 
could now hear the " choo'o, choo'o, choo'o," as they 
spouted from their blow-holes. 

Fairly quivering with excitement, and turning round 
to get a good look, I suddenly received a tap alongside 
the head from the mate at the steering oar, that caused 
me to see more stars than I ever imagined were made, 
with a quiet admonition that it was contrary to rules 
to turn the head to look, when pulling on to a whale. 

We were now right between two big whales, at least 
eighty barrels each. The boat being, in whaling parlance, 
" wood and black skin " i.e. the wood of the boat 
touching the skin of the whale, by reaching over I could 
have placed my hand upon one, when the mate shouted 
to let him have it. 



70 OCEAN LIFE 

The boat-steerer, who is the harpooner, became gallied 
(dazed or frightened) from some unaccountable reason. 
He was too close for darting, and instead of driving, or 
setting, his iron into him solid, he drove it at him, cutting 
him down the side, but not fastening securely. Catching 
up his second iron, he fairly pitch-poled it over him. 

It is a singular fact that, as soon as one whale in a 
school is struck, all the rest know it. In an instant there 
was not an earthquake, but a waterquake around us, a 
seething mass of white water, with heads, flukes, and fins 
in every direction. 

Supposing we were fast, the mate roared, " To stern 
all! " and all the crew thinking the same, the order was 
obeyed with a will. In less time than it takes to write 
it, the whole school, having become gallied, were off 
to wind'ard, going " fin out," like mad. 

When the mate discovered that Fred, the Portuguese 
boat-steerer, had missed his whale, he was furious, and 
acted for awhile like an insane man. Catching up a 
paddle, he threw it at Fred's head, and dashing his hat 
into the bottom of the boat, jumped up and down upon 
it, in the meanwhile cursing him, and the whole boat's 
crew. Then, starting on another tack, the boat's head 
was turned, and we were ordered to row to wind'ard 
after the whales, the mate offering everything he possessed, 
if we could only overhaul the school. Standing there 
bareheaded, with one hand on the steering oar, with the 
other he would set against my oar with a force that almost 
threw me over the line-tub at each stroke, while the crew 
pulled as if for their lives. But it was of no avail, and 
after an hour's hard work the school was about out of 
sight, and the ship nearly hull down. The boat's head 
was then pulled round, and, reluctantly, we returned on 
board, where poor Fred was " broken," and turned 



WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 71 

forward among the crew. According to his story, he had 
only been right-whaling, and was accustomed to a long 
dart. The manner of approaching a right whale differs 
from that of going on to a sperm-whale: with the former 
you approach the fore shoulder, and, after fastening, 
back off, out of the way of his flukes, that he invariably 
sweeps from one side to the other, and woe betide the 
boat that gets within reach of that tail, his fighting 
weapon. A dart with a harpoon is made from a distance 
of one to five fathoms. In the latter case, a sperm-whale 
fights with his head, and rarely sweeps, but when struck 
with the iron, fans, i. e. raises his tail and brings his 
flukes down with a crack equal to ten thousand coach- 
whips. In fastening, the boat is run by the corner of 
his flukes, and alongside, and a dart made from two or 
three fathoms' distance, but when Fred found himself 
so close, he lost his head. 

It was a bitter disappointment to the captain and 
officers, as well as the crew, for if he had fastened solid, 
probably every other boat would have fastened, also, 
as where one whale is fast the school will hang around 
generally, giving each boat a chance, and we should have 
filled up the balance of our casks. The loss of these whales 
put Captain Turner, officers and crew in bad humor, 
that cropped out on every occasion. What made it worse, 
we did not raise another school of sperm-whales, not 
even a single one, although lookouts were at both fore 
and main mastheads. Nothing more than a few schools 
of blackfish were sighted, which we lowered for, and 
took enough oil to give us some twenty barrels, at the 
expense of a stove boat. These blackfish are lively 
fellows, and sometimes give a lot of trouble. They are 
apt to breach out of water over a boat, and will run one 
for a short time at a lively gait. They yield, if in good 



72 OCEAN LIFE 

condition, from three to five barrels of oil, according to 
size, and, unless whales are around, are always taken, 
as the oil brings a good price. 

Thus two weeks passed, and no whales, while gloom 
hung o'er the ship, and life on the " Samuel Robertson " 
was anything but " one glad sweet song.'* 

About this time, it was discovered that our fore top- 
mast was badly sprung, and as our water casks needed 
filling, Captain Turner decided to call in at Papetee, 
Otaheite, get a spar for the carpenter to make into a 
fore topmast, and fill water. The ship, being but a short 
distance from the island, was headed for the port, and 
the following morning was off the reef with the town in 
sight, the hills and mountains of Otaheite showing up 
grandly in the morning light and looking, now, so familiar 
to me. Passing through the passage in the reef, we came 
to anchor off the town, with its white beach, cocoa palms 
waving, huts and houses peeping out from the orange 
groves, everything looking as I left it a few months before. 

Captain Turner was afraid of desertion, and orders 
were given that no liberty on shore would be allowed. 
A picked boat's crew to carry Captain Turner back and 
forth were chosen, I being so fortunate as to be one of 
the number. We took him ashore each morning, returning 
at noon; again after dinner, remaining until nightfall, 
then returning on board for the night. 

Native canoes were allowed alongside during the day, 
while natives, male and female, swarmed over the ship, 
trading with the officers and crew, but when night fell 
they were ordered off. 

On the third morning after our arrival, my chum, 
Jim Foote of Syracuse, N. Y., " turned up missing,' ' 
having deserted during the night in some way, probably 
by one of the canoes, eluding the vigilance of the officers. 



WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 73 

This desertion very much incensed Captain Turner, and 
a double watch was ordered, the officers succeeding each 
other in turn. 

I had fully made up my mind to run away if opportunity 
offered, but not until the last night did I see a chance. 
The port regulations were very strict, no sailors or officers 
of any ship being allowed on shore after gun-fire at eight 
o'clock at night, without a special permit. Any one 
caught between that hour and gun-fire at 3 a. m. was 
picked up and locked in the calaboose. The native police 
(kikos) were on the alert for Jack, as it meant a reward. 
The beach was patrolled by French soldiers until the 
morning gun. All this made it pretty difficult to escape, 
but one thing was in my favor. I had picked up the 
language, during my former visit here, and in Honolulu, 
and was able to talk Kanaka like a native. 

The last day of the ship's stay was spent on shore by 
the boat's crew, and about dark, Captain Turner, having 
finished his business, came down to go on board. It was 
now about 8 p.m.; all the canoes had left the ship, having 
been ordered off, save one which was lying under the 
fore channels, the owner, a big Kanaka, with his little 
whyenee (girl), being down in the boat-steerers' quarters, 
trading with them. Seeing the canoe, a thought that I 
might get ashore in her flashed across my mind, and 
slipping into the foVsle, I pulled on an extra shirt, 
and returning, stood by the rail awaiting his coming. 
As he passed me I asked in low tones if he would take me 
ashore, and quickly comprehending the situation, he 
answered in the affirmative. Slipping through the open 
port-hole and grasping a rope hanging over the side, I 
slid down into the canoe, lying flat in the bottom, and 
was followed in a moment by the whyenee and himself. 
Casting off, and seizing his paddle, a few vigorous strokes 



74 OCEAN LIFE 

set him clear from the ship, and although the officers were 
watching as well as they could see in the gathering dark- 
ness, I was unobserved, and knew that I should not be 
missed until morning. Passing the guard-boat rowing 
about in the harbor, which came close to us, the guard 
speaking to the Kanaka, but failing to see me, we ran 
alongside some boats moored a stone's throw from the 
beach. The Kanaka having told me, on my way in, that 
I must slip into one of these boats and remain until he 
came for me, I acted on his instructions, and rolled over 
into a small rowboat and lay down to await his coming, 
and having dropped asleep, was awakened by a rubbing 
along the boat's side. Looking up, I saw my Kanaka 
standing in his canoe signing for silence and for me to 
get in. 

A few strokes sent us to the beach. Leaving the boat 
drawn up a little, we crawled on our hands and knees, 
the native leading, up past the sentry, who was sitting 
on the beach, with his musket beside him, sound asleep. 
Having got a short distance past him, we arose to our 
feet, continuing on until we came to several huts, one of 
which, the roof partly off, was in a dilapidated condition, 
and nearly filled with leaves fallen from the grove in 
which it stood. Into this shelter I crept, and covered 
myself with the leaves, the Kanaka telling me he would 
come after gun-fire, about 3 o'clock in the morning. 
Promptly on time he made his appearance, and, taking 
the lead and telling me to follow, he struck into a path 
leading to the, hills. Two hours' brisk travel brought us 
to an elevation, where we could look over the town, 
harbor, and reef. As far as the eye could reach were 
spread the shining blue waters of the Pacific. The view 
at this elevation was magnificent. Turning in from the 
path through a thicket of guava bushes, we emerged into 



WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 75 

a beautiful grove of orange and other trees. Here he 
told me to stop, and he would go down and bring me up 
some food. 

As there was an abundance of fruit around, and it was 
not at all likely that I should remain long, this movement 
of his appeared singular, and the thought came to my 
mind that when he returned he would not be alone. 
No doubt a small reward would be offered for me, and, 
having hidden, he would know where to find me. In 
short, I felt that he was going to betray me, and give me 
up for the reward, and acting on this belief, I went a short 
distance and climbed a tree having a very dense foliage, 
making openings through the leaves where I could com- 
mand a view of the path leading to the grove, as well as 
one looking over it. I then settled back, and awaited 
events. 

Two hours passed, when, hearing voices, I glanced 
through the opening, and saw my Kanaka, accompanied 
by two French soldiers, coming up the path. Leaving 
them outside, he entered alone, and not seeing me, 
called softly, but receiving no response, finally called 
them in. Beating the bushes, they hunted everywhere, 
but at last came to the conclusion that I had vacated 
my quarters, for some reason, and giving up the search, 
returned to town. 

After becoming satisfied that they had gone for good, 
I descended from the tree, and struck into another 
path that brought me out on the seaward side of Point 
Venus. Here, hidden in the bushes, I could see the ship 
lying outside the reef, with her main topsail aback, 
which meant that Captain Turner was still on shore, 
waiting for me to be brought to the boat and taken on 
board, and I inwardly chuckled to think that the 
" Samuel Robertson " would not have me this time! 



76 OCEAN LIFE 

At last the boat went on board, and the ship filled 
away. I watched her until she was hull down, and then, 
feeling that the chances were very small that she would 
return, I left my hiding-place and walked boldly into the 
town, and turning into the American consul's store, I 
accosted the captain of the barque " George," of Stoning- 
ton, Conn., U. S. A., a whaler, telling him, frankly, I 
had deserted from the ship " Samuel Robertson/ 7 and 
asking if he would ship me. 

After being badgered awhile, I signed the articles for 
ten dollars a month, and to help take oil if we saw whales, 
instead of a regular lay, as the barque was bound home 
around the Cape, but would lower for whales if we saw 
any. 

The " George " had been out forty-seven months, 
having had very poor luck, only about twelve hundred 
barrels of oil, and most of that a poor quality taken in 
Magdalena Bay, California. She was short-handed, only 
four of her original ship's company that left home remain- 
ing by her. 

Having received my advance ($10), I started for the 
beach, but had not proceeded far when I was arrested as 
a runaway from the " Samuel Robertson," so, instead of 
landing on the " George " in a half-hour, I found myself 
an inmate of the calaboose in company with my chum 
Jim Foote, who was picked up an hour before. 

The following morning Captain George Taber, finding 
I had not gone on board, came to look me up. This was 
fortunate for Jim, as the captain not only obtained my 
release, but his also, shipping him as one of the crew of 
the " George." We had taken our departure from duress 
almost famished, I having had nothing but fruit for two 
days and Jim for about a week. So we made a line for a 
restaurant just off the beach kept by a Frenchman and 



WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 77 

largely patronized by the officers of the men-of-war 
and captains of vessels in port. 

With my month's advance in my pocket, we entered 
boldly, signifying to the gargon in Kanaka, — not being 
well up in French, — that we wished dinner for two. 
Our appearance was against us, and the gargon viewed 
us with suspicion, but the jingle of the silver dollars set 
everything right, — and such a dinner! Cleaning off 
every dish that was brought on, we finished two bottles 
of wine with our repast, then lay back in our chairs, 
calling for the best cigars, and finally, as the day was 
waning, the bill. It was brought. Passing over the 
items, we glanced at the sum total, forty-five francs, — 
my whole month's advance, with the exception of five 
francs, that we magnanimously handed the waiter, who 
bowed us out, salaaming to the floor, and we went on 
board without a cent, but full and happy. 

The memory of that dinner lingered with us many 
weeks. 

With the exception of one whale, we took no more oil. 
We were very short-provisioned, and the desire seemed 
to be more to get home than to see whales. We made a 
favorable run around Cape Horn and were again in the 
south Atlantic. Our provisions were getting very short 
indeed, when we were fortunate in speaking the ship 
" Martha " of Newport, R. L, also a whaler, and pro- 
curing from her two casks of bread, with other stores, 
but no tobacco. We were all out of tobacco, and on our 
arrival at Stonington had been without over a month, 
and every user of the weed knows what that means. 
We had procured a plug for each man from a schooner, 
the day before we made port, and from that time all 
hands were chewing away for dear life. 

Taking a pilot, we entered the port of Stonington, 



78 OCEAN LIFE 

when the following day all who had shipped in the Islands 
were paid off, myself among the number. Paying no heed 
to flattering inducements held out to me to proceed to 
New Bedford and join the ship " Betsey Williams," just 
fitting out for a three years' cruise in the Pacific — having 
had all I wanted of whaling — I took the train for Bos- 
ton, where I joined the barque " Tiberias/' Captain Elisha 
Foster, bound for San Francisco and the gold fields. 
This was in the rush of '49. 

Our crew was shipped for $13 advance, and $2 per 
month; it being stipulated in the articles that the crew 
should discharge the cargo in San Francisco, at the going 
rate of wages at that port. 



CHAPTER IX 
1849 - 1850 

SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA. — PORTLAND. — GENUINE 

RED MEN 

Sailing from Boston in November, 1849, we experi- 
enced a fine run off the coast. The westerly winds pre- 
vailing were not long in running our easting down, and 
we could head south for the trade winds. 

Our crew numbered fourteen for'ard, which, with 
captain and after guard, made a total of twenty, all told. 
Ten days out insanity developed in John Williston, one 
of the crew, which caused no end of trouble. 

A sailor from Gay Head, Martha's Vineyard, of the 
name of Charles, had been a shipmate of John's, and 
knew of these attacks, but had not mentioned it. The 
discovery was made thus: John had been sick, and 
confined to his berth two days. Coming from the wheel 
the second day, I passed the members of the watch getting 
their supper on deck, and descended the foVsle ladder 
to get my pot, pan and spoon in order to join them. 
Securing these, I was about mounting the steps, when 
there came from John's bunk one of the most unearthly 
groans I ever heard. Thinking he must be in great pain, 
I stepped to the berth, and asked him how he felt. Receiv- 
ing no reply, I placed my hand upon his shoulder, when 
like a flash he turned upon me with a demoniacal glare 

79 



80 OCEAN LIFE 

in his eyes. His look was enough to freeze one's blood 
and in an instant I realized I was alone with a powerful 
maniac, endowed with the full use of all his limbs, and 
possessing at least five times his natural strength. I 
turned to escape by the companionway, but with a roar 
like a wild beast he sprang to the foVsle deck, making 
for me ere I could reach the foot of the ladder. The big 
oak bitts came through the centre of the foVsle, and 
around these I sprang, followed by John, who was as 
nimble as a cat. Finally, on the fourth or fifth round, 
he caught his foot in the becket of the bread-barge and 
fell. I reached the companion ladder with a bound, 
and was part ways up, when he grasped my foot, but a 
vigorous kick in the head with the other foot caused him 
to loosen his hold and fall back into the foVsle, where, 
seizing the barge in one hand, he started in, smashing 
everything in general. At that moment Charles, his 
former shipmate, came from the wheel, and looking down, 
exclaimed: 

"My God! John's got his fits again!" adding, " He 
must be secured. He'll kill all hands if he gets out of 
the foVsle." 

As only one man could go down at a time, it was 
apparent that the first one would have anything but a 
picnic before the others could assist him, but something 
must be done, for John was creating havoc among the 
chests and berths, and the carpenter, a big man, volun- 
teered. Springing into the foVsle, he grappled the 
madman, and for a couple of minutes poor " Chips " 
was knocked around like a shuttlecock, and until we 
could get down and overpower him by force of numbers. 
Then, having bound him so he could do no damage, we 
let him lie while Charles enlightened us. It seems that 
these attacks would come on daily for several weeks, 



SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 81 

then every other day, finally every third day for ten days 
or a fortnight, and then pass away entirely. He would 
have no more unless some fit of passion, or other reason, 
caused a return. The worst feature was that when he 
felt them coming on he would conceal the fact, and 
before we were aware of it, he would be a raving maniac, 
with a desire to kill some one, so it became necessary to 
keep a very careful watch upon him, so as to have him 
confined in time in a strait-jacket and f rapped down 
on a four-inch plank, some seven feet long, with a row of 
holes bored on each side, through which ratline stuff 
was passed, making a complete lacework over him. 
Even bound thus, he would grip with his toes anything 
coming in contact with his feet, while a rope swung by 
his face he would snap with his teeth in the most vicious 
manner. It was much feared he would have an attack at 
night, and get hold of a hand-spike or knife, in which 
case he would probably have had to be shot. When he 
came out of these attacks, he would be as weak and almost 
as helpless as a kitten for about two hours, after which 
he would recover his strength, and be as well as any 
one until the attacks came on again. They would last from 
one to two hours. Before we reached Cape Horn the fits 
passed away entirely, but they cost us many a scare, 
and kept all hands on the qui vive for nearly two months. 

Just before sailing from Boston a week of very severe 
cold weather was experienced, and on breaking out stores 
when we got part ways to the equator, it was found that 
twenty-five barrels of potatoes had to be thrown over- 
board, having been frozen while being taken on board. 
It was a keen loss, as we had counted on potatoes for a 
long time. 

On the equator we spoke an English ship bound from 
Sydney, N. S. W., to London, and it being nearly calm, 



82 OCEAN LIFE 

the captains visited each other, and some of the passengers 
of the Englishman wishing to go to California, Captain 
Foster got two men from her. They were good, able 
seamen, and on John's account we were glad to have 
them. .We made a good run to Cape Horn, with fifteen 
days of stormy gales off the Cape, and we were again in 
the south Pacific. 

Passing the belt of S. E. and N. E. trades, nothing of 
note occurred until we arrived off the heads of San Fran- 
cisco. 

Sighting the Farralones, a cluster of small, rocky 
islands, in the morning, we took a pilot on board, and 
entering the Golden Gate, we passed up the bay, coming 
to an anchor among a fleet of shipping of all nationalities, 
one hundred and forty-five days from Boston. 

Glorious California! El Dorado of the Pacific slope! 
What successes, struggles and hardships have you wit- 
nessed in the mad rush for gold during the early days, 
after the discovery of the vast amount of mineral wealth 
within thy borders had been made known to the world, 
and the Golden Gate of thy magnificent bay was opened 
wide to young and old, rich and poor alike, sturdy adven- 
turers from every land, bidding them welcome to a 
participation in the treasures to be harvested from thy 
rivers, streams, and mountains! 

Such a gathering could only be found in San Francisco 
during these early days of '49 and '50. One met very 
few old men in the city streets, but young to middle-aged, 
full of life, brawn and muscle, eager, and all dominated 
by one thought, in the wild headlong scramble for wealth: 
Gold! Gold! Gold! 

Although our crew had shipped to discharge the cargo, 
all hands except the captain and mate went ashore the 
following morning, landing at Clark's Point. 




SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849 




BARQUE 



CORNELIA L. BEVAN. 

[See page 5 



SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 83 

Wending my way up the hill, I was so fortunate as 
to meet a " Marbleheader " I knew well, who, after a 
hearty handshake, informed me that I would find a 
restaurant just over the hill kept by a townsman, 
Mr. Benjamin Dixey, adding, " You will find all the 
' Marbleheaders ' there, and get all the news." 

For a few moments after I had entered the restaurant 
it seemed as if I had struck the old town again. Here 
I obtained all the news about the mines, who. had gone, 
cost of outfit, what townsmen were in port, and general 
information upon other matters, then I started for the 
ship to get my sea chest, which had been left on board. 
Half way down the hill by the roadside stood a shanty 
built of rough boards and canvas, with a sign over the 
door bearing the name of one of the swell hotels of New 
York City, " Delmonico's." 

Stopping a moment to glance inside, I noticed a young 
man in a red shirt, standing in the doorway, looking 
intently at me. 

" Why, Jack! " he suddenly burst out with, " where 
in thunder did you spring from? " 

It dawned upon me in a moment, it was my old school- 
mate and chum, Ambrose Allen, whom I had not seen 
since my first voyage. 

Mutual congratulations and comparing of notes occu- 
pied the next hour, at the end of which it was agreed 
that I should stop there, at the shanty, — hotel, I mean. 
The terms were $50 per week, plenty to eat if one was not 
too fastidious, and a good bunk to sleep in; what more 
would one wish? Of course the bar made it a little noisy, 
and a free fight, now and then, made everything exciting 
and lively. Although about every man carried a revolver, 
or some weapon, they were seldom resorted to. Each 
man knew his opponent was armed, and the drawing of 



84 OCEAN LIFE 

a knife or gun was the signal for a battle to the death, 
or at least severe wounding. Men would hesitate before 
being killed or perhaps permanently disabled for any 
small quarrel, and generally settled the matter with fists. 

My chum said if I did not find anything to do in a few 
days, he would speak to Capt. William Stacey, his pro- 
spective father-in-law, and get me work on board his 
ship as cook at $200 per month, until we should make 
up our minds what we would do, whether to go to the 
mines or not. 

I worked on shore at odd jobs for a week, but not 
having money to purchase an outfit, I abandoned the 
idea of gold digging. My chum got his discharge, his pay 
amounting to quite a sum, and we fell in with a Marble- 
head captain (Captain Hector Dixey), who was in com- 
mand of a small schooner named " Eagle," between 80 
and 90 tons burthen, that had come out in '49 during the 
excitement and was then owned by Dunbar & Co., mer- 
chants in San Francisco. She was bound to Portland, 
Oregon, with freight and passengers, who were going to 
take up land offered by the United States government. 
To encourage settlers the government was for a short 
time giving out grants of 320 acres of land to one person, 
or if two, 640 acres, as a homestead to all who would settle 
on it and improve the land. A great many from San 
Francisco availed themselves of this offer. Picking up 
another " Marbleheader " (William Swasey), who acted 
in the capacity of mate, and four others whose acquaint- 
ance we had made, one acting as cook, we shipped for 
a trip to Portland, wages $100 per month. Sailors were 
hard to get, at this time, even for short trips, and wages 
ran from $100 to $150 per month, high wages for Jack, 
but this was more than balanced by the high cost of 
everything on shore. A sailor, or any one who could turn 



SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 85 

his hand to anything that came along, although not an 
expert, could always command high pay; while on ship- 
board, food costing nothing, $100 a month was very good. 
Jack in San Francisco, in these days, was a very inde- 
pendent character, who dictated his own terms. 

Sailing from the bay, we encountered head winds and 
fogs, and two weeks passed before we arrived off the 
mouth of the Columbia River. We crossed the bar a little 
after noon, and arrived at Astoria, fifteen miles inside, 
before sunset. 

Astoria, named for John Jacob Astor, of New York, 
had been until recently the trading post of the old Hud- 
son Bay Fur Company, which had removed to Vancouver's 
Island. It contained one little frame house, a few log 
huts, and the fort of the old trading company. 

The forest extended to the beach. Save a few whites, 
the inhabitants were Indians, genuine red men of the 
forest, but fast disappearing before the onward march of 
civilization. 

" Where swam the squaw's light birch canoe, 
The steamer smokes and raves, 
While city lots are staked and sold, 
Above old Indian graves." 

Sickness, diseases of the white man that they knew 
not how to treat, was decimating their numbers, and 
our pilot pointed out a neck of land on which he said there 
were over a thousand Indians only a year before, but 
now, not one, almost all having been swept off by small- 
pox and other forms of disease, while those who had not 
died had moved away from the stricken spot. 

Sailing up the Columbia, we passed Coffin Rock on 
the right. This was a large, flat rock or small island, 
which was used as a burial place for the Indians. It was 



86 OCEAN LIFE 

covered with canoes, each containing the corpse of an 
Indian, with his implements of war, bow, arrows, pot- 
tery, etc. It had been burnt off by the whites, and the 
pilot said would be again, when the Indians would no 
doubt abandon it as a place for burial. 

A singular rock stood near the middle of the river, 
rising like a shaft from the bed of the stream to a height 
of forty or fifty feet above the surface, perpendicular on 
all sides, with shrubs growing on the top. The scenery 
was magnificent. The river banks, rising from the water's 
edge hundreds of feet in height, were crowned with giant 
pines, extending heavenward a hundred and fifty feet 
or more, while each turn and bend of the river opened up 
new beauties, which at night, under a full moon, formed 
a picture long to be remembered. 

Entering the mouth of the Willamette, we arrived at 
Portland City, making fast under the bank. 

Portland, at this time, was a city only in name. The 
site was laid out, but the virgin forests extended nearly 
to the river's banks, which were from thirty to fifty feet 
above the stream. The trees had been felled, and the 
ground cleared for five or six hundred yards back from 
the river's bank, but the stumps were standing in every 
direction. There were a dozen or more log houses, no 
streets, and one small frame building only, which served 
as a general store for whites and Indians. 

After landing passengers and freight, the fo'c'sle hands 
became restless, and having had a difference with Mr. 
Swasey, the mate, we left in a body, rented a log house, 
and settled down to enjoy life on shore. I employed, to 
cook for us, the cook of a barque who had been left on 
shore sick but had now recovered. We lacked nothing 
in the food line, for we had laid in a liberal stock of pro- 
visions at the store; also guns and ammunition, for the 



SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 87 

river was alive with game, — ducks and geese, — and its 
waters were teeming with fish, the finest salmon being daily 
speared by the Indians at the falls just above the city. 

Here we remained, leading a sort of nomad life, for 
a month, until, tiring of its monotony, we shipped on the 
barque " Susan Drew," Captain Drew, for " Frisco." 

No men being obtainable in the port for the voyage, 
we asked and received two hundred dollars per month, 
with the contract to discharge the cargo at the same 
wages. 

A short, pleasant run brought us again to port in San 
Francisco, where two weeks were used up in discharging 
the cargo of round timber, after which we took our dis- 
charge from the vessel. 

Some two months were spent in port, most of the time 
working on board ships in the harbor at big pay. 

September 9, 1850, California was admitted into the 
Union, the 31st State. It was a gala day, and was cele- 
brated with all the eclat that could be contributed by 
brass bands, parades, burning of powder, and firing of 
cannon, with illuminations and fireworks at night. Every 
one entered into the spirit of the occasion and the whole 
affair was voted a grand success. 

We were now pretty well in funds, and as everything 
was so high in San Francisco, it was agreed upon by the 
six of us to take a run to Valparaiso, S. A., have a general 
good time, as we looked upon it in those days, then return 
to San Francisco and make a lot more money. 

Looking back through the vista of years, I can now 
see how foolish and improvident was the course we were 
pursuing, but I can only say that we were like thousands 
of other sailors, living only for the day and hour, with no 
thought of the morrow, or of laying up our earnings 
against the time of need. 



88 OCEAN LIFE 

Shipping on the barque " Zingari," of Salem, Mass., 
Captain Eaton, we dropped down the bay, and crossed 
the bar, bidding adieu to the Golden Gate, for a few 
months, as we then supposed, I little dreaming it would 
be ten or twelve years before I again passed its portals, 
and then as captain of a fine ship. 

Discharging our pilot, we shaped our course south. 



CHAPTER X 
1850 - 1851 

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY. — COTTON - SCREWING AND 



After a pleasant run of six weeks with nothing of 
note occurring, we entered the spacious harbor of Val- 
paraiso, a fine bay, but open to the " northers," which 
at times blow with great violence, and cause a heavy 
sea, or ground-swell, making communication between 
the ship and shore difficult, and at times dangerous. 
The holding ground is good, however, and unless a ship 
breaks from her anchorage, disasters seldom occur. 

The view of the city and surrounding hills, from the 
bay, is very fine. 

As we had only shipped for the run to Valparaiso, we 
were discharged the following day, taking up our quarters 
at a boarding-house bearing the cognomen of " The Old 
House at Home," at the foot of the " Main Top Hill," 
so called. Here we remained for several weeks, until, 
our funds getting low, we sought an opportunity of 
returning to California, but found this no easy matter. 

We worked on board ships in the bay for a month, and 
finding no chance of returning to San Francisco, we 
shipped on a large centreboard schooner, called the 
" Sarah," flying the Chilian flag, for a trip down the 
coast and return to Valparaiso. The cargo consisted of 

89 



90 OCEAN LIFE 

provisions and mining supplies for the ports of Coquimbo, 
Huasco, Copiapo, Cobija, Chile, and Iquiqui and Arica in 
Peru. 

We landed our cargo on the beach with boats, most 
of the ports being nothing but an open roadstead. The 
surf was high, at times, rendering landing with an open 
boat a ticklish and frequently a dangerous undertaking, 
but with great care our cargo was all gotten on shore 
safely. 

On the eastern side rain is abundant, but along this 
part of the coast rain never falls; the high peaks of the 
Andes forming a watershed that draws every drop of 
moisture from the clouds passing over. There are heavy 
dews at night. There is no vegetation, no drinking-water, 
except that distilled from the salt water at the works 
that supply the inhabitants. The town wore a dry and 
arid look. Earthquakes are of frequent occurrence. 
We experienced many shocks while at Valparaiso, some 
very severe, shaking down a number of dwellings, but 
we became so accustomed to them that they occasioned 
no alarm unless of very unusual severity. 

We returned to Valparaiso, after five weeks absence, 
and finding no opportunity of going back to California, 
we shipped on the barque " Antelope," Captain Zenas 
Crosby, bound for Coquimbo, Chile, to load skins and 
pig copper for New York. The cargo was taken on 
board and stowed by the crew. It was hard, back- 
breaking work, carrying the big rough pigs of copper 
with their jagged edges, — some weighing a hundred 
pounds or more, — from one part of the hold to another. 

It was not stowed in a solid mass, but first dunnage, 
consisting of planks, then a layer of pigs, — not close 
together, but a foot apart, — then a layer of bales of 
skins over all, and on top of these another layer of pigs, 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 91 

and so on, in alternate layers, until the lading was com- 
pleted. Although it was a heavy cargo, the manner of 
stowing made it springy. 

Sundays we had liberty, one watch at a time, and 
embraced the opportunity of visiting the city of Coquimbo, 
situated about nine miles from the port or roadstead, 
and hiring horses with saddles, for a dollar each, we set 
out on the gallop over a good road. The day was bright 
with sunshine, a fine brisk breeze blowing, an ideal day 
for horseback riding. Being a fair horseman, I thoroughly 
enjoyed it, but several of my companions cut but a sorry 
figure on horseback, and several tumbles were the conse- 
quence, but no serious mishap. Arriving at the city, we 
rode around awhile, but found not a great deal to interest 
us, streets not over clean, low flat-roofed houses, one and 
two story, and a strong odor of garlic pervading the 
atmosphere everywhere. We visited a few of the churches, 
after which we purchased some delicious white grapes 
and other fruits, for luncheon, while our horses rested, 
and again mounting, arrived at the port just at sunset, 
having greatly enjoyed the trip. 

Our lading completed, all was made ready for sea. It 
was now near midwinter in the southern hemisphere, 
and anticipating severe weather rounding Cape Horn, 
our best sails were bent, and running gear carefully looked 
after. We sailed from Coquimbo with a strong northerly 
wind, and passed the latitude of Cape Horn in ten or 
twelve days from port, when, taking a strong, westerly 
gale, we scudded past under a close-reefed main topsail, 
and reefed foresail, with a fearful sea sweeping after, 
every wave having a most ominous look as it rose high 
above the taffrail, but our good barque seemed to realize 
the danger, and rose to each mountain of water as light 
and graceful as a bird. Squalls of snow and hail, beating 



92 OCEAN LIFE 

fiercely upon us, followed each other in rapid succession, 
while two men at the wheel had all the work they could 
do to keep the barque before it, yet she was not a hard- 
steering craft. 

It was at this time I met with an accident, which but 
for a merciful providence would probably have ended my 
career. 

About four bells, in the mid-watch, during the height 
of the gale, the head of the main spencer blew adrift, 
and an order came instantly from the mate, for one of 
the watch to take a spare gasket, lay aloft, and secure it. 
This was no easy matter, as the shrouds were cased with 
sleet and snow, while the running gear was stiff with ice. 
The ship was rolling heavily as she drove before the blast, 
while the night was dark as Erebus, save momentary 
gleams of phosphorescent brightness from the surges as 
they swept past. Standing near the main rigging, I 
procured a gasket, and started aloft. I was very heavily 
dressed, in thick clothing and monkey jacket with oil- 
skins over all, thick sea-boots and .mittens. Opposite 
the spencer gaff, just under the maintop, I was obliged 
to swing out from the rigging, grasp the running gear, 
and with legs wound about the sail to smother it. I 
worked with both hands at getting the gasket passed. 
As I could do nothing with mittens on, I dropped them, 
and during the sharp heavy rolls I would cling on with 
my fingers like fish-hooks. Just as the last turns were 
passed and the sails secured, the barque gave an unusually 
heavy roll. My benumbed fingers, stiff with the cold, 
refused to hold on, and down I went by the run, and now 
my thick clothing and heavy sea-boots saved me. Strik- 
ing the edge of the pin-rail around the mainmast with 
my heels, and breaking a piece out, I shot into the scupper, 
striking my shoulder, but not my head. 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 93 

Although not seriously injured, I lay there, stunned, 
the breath being about knocked out of my body, and 
picking me up, the watch carried me into the cabin, 
where I soon recovered my wind. Captain Crosby, 
after an examination, finding no bones broken, and 
nothing worse than a severe shaking up, administered to 
me a stiff glass of brandy, and I resumed my watch on 
deck, though feeling the effects in a general soreness for 
days after. 

Having passed the Horn and rounded Staten Land, 
we sped on with favorable gales under all the canvas 
the " Antelope " could carry, towards the belt of S. E. 
trades, and crossing the equator, and entering the N. E. 
trades, passing the Windward Islands, Bermuda, Cape 
Hatteras, and the Gulf Stream, struck soundings on 
Yankee land once more, and taking a pilot off Barnegat 
Light, the " Antelope " arrived safely at New York, 
without the loss of a sail, spar, or man, eighty-two days 
from Coquimbo. - 

We were paid off the following day, and my chum 
Ambrose Allen and I parted from our shipmates and 
took the steamer that night for Newport and Fall River, 
thence by rail to Boston and Marblehead, where we 
received a warm welcome from our friends. 

This voyage ended the seagoing experience of my 
schoolmate. His father wished him to go into business 
with him on shore, so Ambrose abandoned the sea. He 
was a loyal, staunch friend through life. He married the 
sweetheart of his boyhood days, a lovely girl, and when 
at home from my voyages in after years, we spent many 
happy hours at his house or at his store, recalling our 
early experiences in California, or along the Pacific 
coast. 

After a short stay on shore, I shipped on the barque 



94 OCEAN LIFE 

" Kepler/' for a voyage to the Mediterranean, with a 
cargo of naval stores for the port of Spezzia, Italy, at 
that time a naval rendezvous for our fleet in Mediter- 
ranean waters. A pleasant run brought us to the Strait 
of Gibraltar, through which we passed in daylight, hav- 
ing a fine view of the Spanish coast with the island 
and light-house of Tarifa, and the mountains of 
Spain, while on the south towered the giant peaks of 
the African shore, ending with the high bluff prom- 
ontory of Cape Spartel, marking the western entrance 
of the straits, and Gibraltar standing like a giant 
sentinel guarding the eastern entrance. We sailed past 
Malaga, and the sunny shores of Spain with its moun- 
tains in the background, past Cape de Gata and the 
Balearic Islands, and crossing the Gulf of Genoa, entered 
the port of Spezzia, passing between an island on our 
right and the mainland, a narrow channel through which 
a strong tide ran. 

Having discharged our cargo at the government dock, 
the " Kepler " sailed in ballast for Palermo, Sicily, to 
load fruit for Boston. A run of a few days brought us 
to that port, and drawing in under the high land, the 
strong gusts from off the hills obliged us to take in our 
kites in a hurry, but once around the long mole, we were 
in a fine harbor sheltered from all winds. 

Off this port will be seen in the illustration the barque 
" Cornelia L. Bevan," owned by Isaac Jeanes of Phila- 
delphia. It is copied, by courtesy of Mr. Joseph Y. 
Jeanes, son of the owner, from a painting made at Palermo, 
and is a good specimen of a Baltimore clipper of sixty 
years ago. She was built in that city in 1847, for the 
Mediterranean trade, although she did make a voyage 
to San Francisco and back. Her dimensions were: 
registered tonnage, 330; length 108 feet; beam 25 feet, 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 95 

7 inches; depth of hold 13 feet, 3 inches; square stern and 
female figurehead. 

Sicily is a large island, with an area of nine thousand 
nine hundred and thirty-six square miles, lying off the 
southern and western end of Italy, and belonging to 
that government. A fine view of Mt. iEtna can be 
obtained from the harbor, towering high above the rest 
of the island, with an elevation of a little upwards of ten 
thousand eight hundred feet. The day after our arrival, 
its summit was white with fresh snow that had fallen 
during the night, presenting a beautiful appearance in 
the sunlight, contrasted with the vivid green farther 
down the slope of the mountain. Palermo and Messina 
are the principal ports, from which large shipments of 
fruit, principally oranges and lemons, are made to London 
and Liverpool, as well as the United States. Trapani, 
on the northwestern end of the island, is also a great 
shipping port for salt brought from Marsala, where there 
are extensive salt-pans, the salt being heaped in great 
mounds resembling snow-drifts when viewed from the 
water with the sun shining on them. 

Having completed our lading, — oranges and lemons, 
— the " Kepler " took her departure from Palermo, 
and after a quick run from Gibraltar with a fair passage 
of thirty-six days across, — not bad in the month of 
February, — we took a pilot, and were shortly fast along- 
side Central Wharf, Boston, where the crew were paid 
off. 

I made a run to New Orleans on the barque " Ionia," 
and then joined the ship " Governor Davis " of " Train's 
White Diamond Line." We loaded cotton for Liverpool, 
and returned to Boston with emigrants, some three 
hundred in the steerage. Very rough weather was 
experienced on this passage over, and the passengers 



96 OCEAN LIFE 

suffered accordingly. Gale succeeded gale, with a frightful 
sea, and it was necessary to keep the passengers below, 
with hatches on, for days at a time. When they were 
removed the men were sent below with buckets of tar 
and red hot irons plunged in them to fumigate the hold 
and between-decks. Two deaths occurred and one 
passenger had his leg broken by a cask breaking away 
in a gale. With the record of sixty-eight days from Liver- 
pool, we anchored in Lighthouse Channel, Boston, badly 
iced up, with crew frost-bitten and thoroughly fagged 
out. 

From the " Governor Davis " I went to the " Tirrell," 
a large ship, commanded by Captain Thomas Hyler, 
as third mate, and made another voyage to Liverpool, 
returning to Boston with four hundred and twenty 
emigrants. This was another long, hard passage. We 
had heavy gales, with plenty of snow and hail squalls, 
with high seas. Sixty days was our record this time, 
between Liverpool and Boston. 

I left the " Tirrell " in Boston, and having had enough 
of western ocean winter voyages, I signed the articles of 
the ship " Emperor," Captain Knott Pedrick, as third 
mate, bound to New Orleans. The " Emperor " was a 
ship of seven hundred tons burthen, having fine accom- 
modations for cabin passengers. Sailing from Boston in 
ballast, we arrived safely, and loaded cotton for Havre, 
France. 

New Orleans, at this time, was the great shipping 
port of the South for exporting cotton to Europe, although 
Mobile, Savannah and Charleston also shipped great 
quantities. 

In the winter months, all along the levees at New 
Orleans lay tiers of shipping of all nationalities, loading 
cotton for the northern ports of the United States, as 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 97 

well as the various ports of Europe. The river front is 
shaped like a crescent, and from this fact New Orleans 
takes its name of the " Crescent City." For miles along 
the banks, or levees, extends the shipping, lying in tiers, 
loading cotton, staves, or tobacco, but principally cotton. 
The bales were rolled from the levee by the stevedores' 
gangs, generally roustabout darkies, up the staging, and 
tumbled on deck and down the hold, where they were 
received by gangs of cotton-screwers, there being as 
many gangs in the ship's hold as could work to advantage. 
The bales were placed in tiers, and when they would 
apparently hold no more, with the aid of planks and 
powerful cotton-screws, several bales would be driven in 
where it would appear to a novice impossible to put one. 

Four men to a screw constituted a gang, and it was a 
point of honor to screw as many bales in a ship's hold as 
could possibly be crammed in, and in some cases even 
springing the decks upwards, such a power was given by 
the screw. All this work was accompanied by a song, 
often improvised and sung by the " chantie " man, the 
chorus being taken up by the rest of the gang. Each 
gang possessed a good " chantie " singer, with a fine voice. 
The chorus would come in with a vim, and every pound 
in the muscles of the gang would be thrown into the 
handle-bars of the cotton-screws, and a bale of cotton 
would be driven in where there appeared to be but a 
few inches of space. 

The songs or " chanties " from hundreds of these gangs 
of cotton-screwers could be heard all along the river 
front, day after day, making the levees of New Orleans 
a lively spot. As the business of cotton-screwing was 
dull during the summer months, the majority of the 
gangs, all being good sailors, shipped on some vessel 
that was bound to some port in Europe to pass the heated 



98 OCEAN LIFE 

term and escape the " yellow Jack/' which was prevalent 
at that season. When they returned in the fall they 
could command high wages at cotton-screwing on ship- 
board. Some would go to northern ports, but generally 
the autumn found them all back, ready for their winter's 
work. 

" Chantie " singing was not confined to the gangs of 
cotton screwers. In the days of the old sailing ships 
almost all the work on shipboard was accompanied by 
a song or " chantie" My old friend Captain George 
Meacom, of Beverly, nephew of my old commander, 
Captain Edward Meacom of the ship "Brutus," in an 
able article in the Boston Transcript, says in regard to 
the old time chantie songs: 

" Fifty years ago, in my early sea life, when the 
American merchant marine was at its zenith, and the 
deep-water clipper sailing ship carried the broom at its 
masthead, no first-class well-appointed sailing ship would 
think of shipping its crew without having at least one 
good ' chantie man ' among them. For with the old- 
style hand-brake windlass for getting the anchors, the 
heavy, single topsails and courses to handle, it was 
necessary, in order to secure the combined power of the 
men, that unison of effort should be made, especially 
while heaving up the anchor, mastheading the topsails, 
getting the tacks of the courses aboard and the sheets 
aft, or pumping ship, and this could better be well done 
by the assistance of a good ' chantie ' song. With twenty- 
five or thirty men's efforts worked as a unit, this great, 
combined power would be sure to bring desired results 
in all heavy work. Noticing an article recently pub- 
lished, the writer said, ' I have passed many miserable 
hours pumping out leaks from wooden ships, but I was 
never so fortunate as to hear a pumping chantie.* 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 99 

" In my early days of sea life ships were driven hard, 
and sail carried on the vessel to the utmost limit, that 
quick passages might be made, with the result that the 
vessel often being strained, — it not being uncommon 
for the whole body structure of the ship to quiver, — 
would leak considerably, and in order to keep her cargo 
from being damaged, it would be necessary to pump the 
water out of the vessel at stated periods, and at these 
times the pumping ' chantie ' song came in place and 
served its purpose admirably. Among these songs were 
the following: 

" ' Mobile Bay 
" ' Were you ever down in Mobile Bay, 

Johnnie, come tell us and pump away. 
A-screwing cotton by the day, 

Johnnie, come tell us and pump away, 
Aye, aye, pump away, 

Johnnie, come tell us and pump away,' etc. 

"'Fire Down Below 
" ' Fire in the galley, fire in the house, 
Fire in the beef kid, scorching scouse; 
Fire, fire, fire down below: fetch a bucket of water. 
Fire down below,' etc. 

" ' One More Day for Johnnie 
" ' Only one more day for Johnnie, 

Only one more day: 
Oh, rock and roll me over, 

Only one more day,' etc. 

" All of the named ' chanties ' the writer of this once 
took pride in singing as a chantie man when before the 
mast as a sailor, and, in later years, after becoming an 
officer and captain, he found that the early acquisition 
was valuable as a critic of good ' chantie ' singing, and 
although more than one half of a century has passed, yet 

LOFC. 



100 OCEAN LIFE 

the old ' chantie ' song will start the blood tingling with 
the vim of the days of yore." 

The phrase " carried the broom at its masthead," 
in Captain Meacom's letter, is a reference to a custom 
of the old Dutch ships, signifying their ability to sweep 
the seas. 

Ships were constantly coming and going, the great 
tows nightly leaving for their long journey down the 
Mississippi to the sea, or rather to the bar, for it was a 
problem whether a ship, after arriving at the mouth of 
the river, would be able, if she drew much water, to cross 
the bar, and I have known ships to be weeks aground 
before the powerful tugboats could drag them through 
the mud, three or more tugs often being hitched on to 
one ship. All this has been changed since Eads com- 
pleted his jetties, deepening the channel so that ships of 
heavy draft enter and leave without trouble. 

The " Emperor," being loaded, left the city at eight p. m. 
in tow of the tugboat, and arrived at the bar the following 
morning. Here, finding a high stage of water, we crossed 
without difficulty, and proceeded down the Gulf of Mexico, 
en route for Havre, France. The " Emperor " carried 
three passengers, a lady, child and servant. 

After a pleasant passage of forty-six days, we entered 
the basin of the docks of Havre, and discharging the 
cotton, some four hundred steerage passengers were taken 
on board, over three-quarters of whom were women and 
girls, with ages ranging from seventeen to thirty-seven, 
a fine lot, mostly French and German, with a sprinkling 
of Swiss, who were bound to New York, and thence to 
a western State to work in a factory or mill, on some 
special line of goods. The run across was most delightful. 
Quartering winds and a smooth sea produced no sea- 
sickness, and having a good band on board amongst the 



CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 101 

men passengers, Captain Pedrick invited the girls, in the 
evening, to dance; allowing the crew, mostly Germans 
and Swedes, to join them from seven to nine p. m. as 
partners. The ship, having a full poop deck extending to 
mainmast, afforded splendid facilities for dancing, which 
was improved by the girls on every opportunity, and the 
kindness of Captain Pedrick was appreciated by all on 
board. 

A quick run of nineteen days brought the " Emperor " 
to the port of New York, and taking a pilot, we passed 
Sandy Hook, receiving the doctor on board, who detained 
us but a short time. Captain Pedrick received the 
compliment of having the finest lot of steerage passengers 
ever brought to the port of New York. 



CHAPTER XI 
1851 - 1852 

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO. — CAPE PEMBROKE. — 
PORT STANLEY. — AN INTERNATIONAL INCIDENT 

Having a desire for long voyages in preference to the 
Atlantic trade, I left New York for Boston, where I 
joined the ship " Revere/' Captain Howes, as second 
mate, for a voyage to Callao, Peru. The cargo consisted 
of ice in the hold, and lumber between decks. The 
" Revere " was a fine ship of about seven hundred tons. 

A quick run was made from Boston to the equator, 
when, taking the S. E. trades, we continued on until in 
the latitude of the Falkland Islands; from thence the 
course was shaped for the Straits of Le Maire, between 
the island of Staten Land and Patagonia. 

Although the weather was thick and no observation 
had been taken, or any land sighted, Captain Howes, 
feeling confident of his position, shaped his course to 
pass through at night. 

I had the first watch on deck, from 8 p. m. until mid- 
night. It was very hazy, but the sea was smooth, with 
an eight to ten knot breeze blowing, no indication of bad 
weather, and with a favoring wind we set the foretopmast 
stunsail. 

At eight bells, Mr. Bird, the first officer, came on deck 
to relieve me, taking the course, and we passed some ten 

102 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 103 

minutes in conversation, congratulating each other on 
the fine prospect for a quick run around the Cape. 

Going below, I turned in, but before dropping off to 
sleep I heard the order to brace forward, and take in the 
stunsail; then turning over, I fell into a sound slumber, 
from which I was suddenly awakened, hearing four 
bells strike, and was wondering what woke me, when the 
ship struck with a shock that brought my head in contact 
with a beam, causing me to see more stars than I ever 
imagined were made, but gathering my senses and think- 
ing we were in collision with another ship, I sprang from 
my berth and rushed for the deck, meeting Captain Howes 
in the companionway, who, emerging from the cabin door, 
ran to wind'ard. Hearing the order to haul aback the 
main yard, I sprang to leeward, throwing off the lee 
braces. The night was black, and coming from the light 
of the cabin, I could for a few moments distinguish 
nothing. The ship was lying heeled well over on her 
port side, and with her yards thrown aback worked and 
pounded with such force that we expected every moment 
the spars would come about our ears. 

In the meantime, becoming accustomed to the dark- 
ness, I jumped on a spar, and looking over the side, could 
see the white sand and huge boulders by which we were 
surrounded, and I then knew we were ashore on the bleak 
coast of Terra del Fuego, an island off the southern end 
of Patagonia, inhabited by the lowest type of cannibalistic 
savages. 

The shore was bold, and we could now make out the 
high land looming black through the fog almost directly 
over us. Our only salvation lay in getting the ship afloat; 
unless we did, the probability was we should have to take 
to our boats and effect a landing on Staten Land, on the 
eastern side of the straits, taking the chance of being 



104 OCEAN LIFE 

rescued by some passing vessel, or else make for the 
Chilian settlement of Sandy Point, Straits of Magellan. 

Fortunately we were not brought to this pass, as the 
strong gusts of wind swept down from the high land, 
and every sail being thrown aback, the ship began to 
careen and work, jumping until we trembled for the spars. 
Everything held firm, however, and in the course of from 
twenty minutes to half an hour, she gave one final jump, 
and slid stern first into deep water. As she swung around, 
the yards were trimmed and she was steered offshore 
by the sails. Our steering apparatus was disabled, for 
a time the rudder was useless, both arms that worked 
the rudder-head with a system of cogs having been 
smashed. 

By the time we had made an offing of a half-mile or 
so, the courses were hauled up, and pumps sounded by 
the carpenter. Anxiously we awaited the report that 
came in the ominous reply of " Chips " to Captain Howes' 
interrogatory: 

" Two feet nine inches, sir! " 

All knew our condition was now serious. The carpenter 
was set at work fitting spare arms to the rudder-head so 
the ship could be steered, while the pumps were rigged 
with brakes to which to hitch the lines, making the task 
of continuous pumping easier for the men. This done, 
the pumps were manned, and a rousing song started, 
which never stopped for ten hours, or until two o'clock 
in the afternoon. 

At this time, the rudder-head being in order, the pumps, 
which had shown no indication of sucking, were again 
sounded, and a gain of the leak was reported. It was 
then four feet ! 

A consultation of all hands was called and the con- 
sensus of opinion was that it would be folly to attempt 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 105 

a passage around Cape Horn in our condition, the unani- 
mous verdict being to bear up for the Falkland Islands, 
and make Port Stanley, if possible, so the pumps having 
been manned with a fresh gang, the " Revere's " course 
was shaped for Cape Pembroke, F. I. 

All boats were put in order with provisions and water, 
with tackles on the yards ready to hoist and swing 
should it become necessary to leave the ship at any time, 
and, all being in readiness, the crew relieving each other 
at the pumps in gangs, it was nothing but clang, clang, 
clang of the pumps, day and night, the water gushing 
from the scuppers as clear as alongside. 

No other work was being done but to trim sails. 

During the three days before we sighted Cape Pem- 
broke, the weather was delightful. A fine eight or ten 
knot breeze blowing, with the wind dead aft, and a 
smooth sea. All hands had cabin fare: canned meats 
and cabin stores were served out freely to the crew, as 
it was not known at what moment we might have to 
abandon the ship. It might be a change of wind that 
would — owing to the quantity of water in her — 
throw her on her beam ends and render her unmanageable, 
or a storm might arise at any time in this latitude, that 
would bring matters to a climax. 

The wind holding steady, and the sea continuing 
smooth, we sighted Cape Pembroke the third day, round- 
ing which, the ship entered a long reach of smooth water, — 
like a mill pond, — between Green Island and the cape. 
Bringing the wind abeam caused her to list heavily to 
starboard, and the sounding-rod showed some nine feet 
of water in the hold just before rounding the cape. We 
had now an opportunity to look at our surroundings, 
being in comparative safety. The reach was narrow, 
and the shore was lined with penguins, standing on one 



106 OCEAN LIFE 

leg, as regular as a troop of soldiers drawn up in line, 
which they very much resembled. The whole of Cape 
Pembroke was covered with nests of sea-fowl, or rather 
the eggs, which lay in every direction about the rocks. 

Working up into Port Stanley, the inner harbor of 
Port William, we entered the snuggest haven that a 
ship was ever in. 

Stanley Harbor is oblong in shape, about four miles 
long, by a mile and a half wide, with a depth of from 
five to eight fathoms, completely landlocked save the 
narrow entrance from Port William, with good, sandy 
beaches, an ideal spot for a disabled ship to undergo 
repairs. Dropping anchor, we were at once visited by 
old Captain William H. Smiley, our American consul at 
the Falkland Islands, who carried on, in addition to 
consular duties, a sealing business on the coasts of Pata- 
gonia, Terra del Fuego, and adjacent islands, as well as 
the South Shetlands. He had a brig and two or three 
small schooners, with a number of whale-boats. 

After a conference, it was decided to haul alongside 
an old hulk lying in the port, put our stores on board, 
raft the lumber and throw the ice that was in the hold 
overboard, heave down and examine the amount of 
damage, hold a survey, and decide what was best to be 
done. 

The town, situated on the opposite side of the entrance 
to the harbor, was small, consisting of a hundred dwell- 
ings, — a story and a half and two story buildings, — 
with a court-house and jail, and at the lower end of the 
bay the more pretentious residence of the governor. 
The population numbered from six hundred to eight 
hundred, largely composed of pensioners of the English 
army, old soldiers, receiving a pension of sixpence or a 
shilling, and perhaps more, per day, placed there with 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 107 

their families and given a house and land to cultivate. 
Here in this far-off corner of the earth, they could eke 
out an existence. 

There was no lack of food. Sea-fowl were abundant, 
and the islands were overrun with hares and rabbits. 
Rabbit served in every style was the regular bill of fare 
while we lay there. 

Having disposed of our lumber at a good price to 
" Dean & Co.," the only mercantile house in the port, we 
hoisted out the cakes of ice, dumping them in the harbor 
until the waters around the ship looked like a small 
section of the Arctic Ocean! 

All the stores, with the belongings of officers and 
crew, were removed to the hulk, where we now lived. 

From a whaler coming in homeward bound, we pro- 
cured her cutting in falls and blocks, and reeving pur- 
chases at our ship's fore and main mastheads, hove down 
to Captain Smiley's brig, bringing the " Revere " out of 
water on the port side to her keel, which was found to be 
nearly gone. The garboard-streak was cut half through, 
lower part of rudder gone, the stem knocked off, and 
pieces gouged out of her bilge a fathom or two in length, 
not leaving but an eighth of an inch thickness of plank. 
The copper was wholly torn off of her port side, with 
great copper bolts driven up through the kelson six inches 
and more. She was a sorry sight, and had she been loaded 
with any other cargo than ice and lumber, it would have 
been impossible to have saved her. Procuring a piece 
of English oak for a stem, and heavy oak plank for the 
keel, replacing plank where gouged out, we caulked all 
seams, pitching over all, fitted lower end to the rudder, 
and nailed down the ragged ends of copper, and the good 
ship " Revere " was again tight and sound as temporary 
repairs could make her. 



108 OCEAN LIFE 

The work on the ship was done by the officers and crew, 
under the supervision of the ship's carpenter. 

Our stay at Port Stanley covered four months, the 
weather during that time being very changeable; bright 
sunshine followed quickly by sharp squalls of snow or 
hail. Eight or ten times during repairs it would come on 
to blow so heavily as to oblige us to let her up, and all 
were heartily rejoiced when the work was completed. 

During our stay a man was hung for murder, the first 
execution that had occurred on the island. 

One incident took place while we were there, that 
illustrated what a little thing may sometimes stir up ill 
feeling between two nations. 

Captain Smiley, in former years, had let loose a few 
hogs upon the West Falkland, an uninhabited island of 
the group, which multiplied until at this time there were 
large numbers of them running wild. 

A whale-ship named the " Columbus," having a tender 
called the " George Washington," was cruising on the 
whaling grounds about the Falklands and Patagonia, 
and a boat's crew, landing on the West Falkland, shot a 
number of the hogs. A week after this occurrence, six 
men from the " Columbus " deserted in a whale-boat, 
and came up to the East Falkland (Port Stanley), where 
they reported to the governor that the captain of the 
" Columbus " and " George Washington " had been 
guilty of shooting and stealing hogs from off the West 
Falklands, possessions of her Majesty Queen Victoria. 

The governor of the colony, who had been recently 
sent out, and felt the importance of his position, was 
horrified, and at once wrote to Montevideo, Uruguay, for 
an English man-of-war to be sent down. 

In the meantime, Captain Smiley, getting wind of 
what was going on, employed the boat's crew who deserted 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 109 

from the whaler on board his brig, and when he got them 
there he kept them there, allowing no communication 
with the shore, and the next sailing of the mail packet 
carried a note to the American consul at Montevideo, 
requesting an American war vessel and stating the facts. 

About ten days passed, and there sailed into the harbor 
of Port Stanley a ten-gun English brig. Salutes were 
fired and visits exchanged between the governor and 
the brig's commander. The following morning the brig 
sailed. 

The English brig had been gone but a few days when 
the tall spars of a Yankee war vessel loomed up over 
the point, and the American sloop of war " Germantown " 
sailed into the harbor, and anchored above the point, 
housing her upper spars, so they could not be seen from 
Port William, the outer harbor. 

Captain Smiley immediately went on board in full 
consular uniform, and a mysterious interchange of visits 
began, between his brig and the sloop of war. 

Another week had passed, when about three o'clock 
in the afternoon, the tender " George Washington " 
sailed into the harbor, in charge of a lieutenant of the 
English brig and a prize crew! The " Columbus " was 
following, with an officer from the brig in charge, but 
came to anchor outside of the entrance, neither of them 
dreaming of an American sloop of war waiting to receive 
them. 

They were hardly inside, when a lieutenant and boat's 
crew from the " Germantown " boarded the tender, and 
asked who was in charge. 

" I was," said the captain of the tender, " until this 
officer was put on board with men, and I was ordered 
in here." 

" Very well," said the American lieutenant, " you can 



110 OCEAN LIFE 

take command again of your vessel, and come to anchor 
under the guns of the ' Germantown.' Lieutenant," 
turning to the English officer, " you will give over your 
charge, and the boat is at your disposal to go on shore, 
or we should be most happy to entertain you on board 
our ship until yours arrives." 

The same scene was enacted on board the " Columbus," 
with the exception that a number of the crew of the 
" Germantown " boarded the ship, and brought her into 
the inner harbor, anchoring her near the schooner. 

All this was great fun for us, who were now fully alive 
to the situation. 

The next morning the English brig came in. 

The two war vessels saluted each other, and visits 
were exchanged between the officers. 

The governor went on board, U. S. Consul Smiley, 
also, and there was a constant pulling back and forth, 
the officers and crew of the U. S. sloop of war " Ger- 
mantown " and the English man-of-war fraternizing in 
the most cordial manner, the governor seeming to be 
ignored, somewhat. 

In a few days both war vessels sailed. 

The whaler " Columbus " recovered her men, Captain 
Smiley delivering them on board with the boat they had 
stolen. A full report of the affair was sent by our ship 
to Washington, and it was also brought to the notice of 
the British government, by whom, I afterwards under- 
stood, the governor was recalled. A few days after, the 
il Revere " sailed for Boston, taking, as passengers, 
Captain Smiley's wife and child, and in fifty-eight days 
we again entered Boston Harbor, where all hands were 
paid off, and the " Revere " went into the dry dock for 
full repairs. 

The day after our arrival, on taking up the paper, my 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 111 

eye caught a head-line in large type, " Insult to the 
American Flag," and then followed a long account of 
the almost " international affair " in the Falkland 
Islands. 

As I shall not have occasion to refer to the Hon. William 
H. Smiley again, I will say that he was in many respects 
a most remarkable man, and worthy of a more than 
passing notice. Four months at the Falklands, passed 
in his company, gave me an opportunity of obtaining 
an insight into the character and studying the peculiar 
traits of the man. 

Tall, possessing a massive frame, a face that would not 
have taken the prize for beauty, being seamed and 
scarred, but having a firmness about the jaw and mouth 
that indicated an iron will; fearless in the face of peril 
and always cool in the hour of danger, he was a man 
most admirably fitted for the position he held in his little 
world in a far-off corner of the earth, from which as a 
friend of humanity, and a benefactor to mankind, his 
deeds were heralded in both Europe and America, being 
recognized by both nations. 

He was the owner of a number of small schooners 
and whale-boats, and in his occupation of sealing about 
the Patagonian coast and South Shetlands, as well as 
trading with the Indians of Patagonia, Captain Smiley, 
with his crew, was exposed to many perils. At one time, 
having his men all out sealing, he sailed alone around 
Cape Horn; it being said that he was the only man 
that ever doubled Cape Horn alone in a fifty-ton 
schooner. 

His adventures among the South Shetlands were most 
thrilling, and many nights, in Port Stanley Harbor, I 
have lain awake until long after the midnight hour 
listening to Captain Smiley's yarns that were being spun 



112 OCEAN LIFE 

to Captain Howes, who would sit up all night to hear 
them. 

Captain Smiley died of cholera at Montevideo, in the 
year 1871, at the store of the United States consul, Mr. 
Parsons, where he was stricken. Mr. William D. Evans, 
a ship chandler of Montevideo, and his manager, Captain 
Joseph W. Clapp of Nantucket, a great friend of Captain 
Smiley, were with him to the end. As characteristic of 
the man, it was said that at the last, a clergyman was 
brought in, who started to read a passage from the 
Scriptures, but the captain, being in great agony, waved 
him back, saying, " Don't read me anything, I am in 
too much pain to listen. I am not afraid to die. I've 
kept a straight log." 

The following obituary notice by the editor, Mr. Mul- 
hall, appeared in the Standard of Buenos Ayres: 

"It is with profound regret we have to announce to 
our readers the death of Captain W. H. Smiley, a worthy 
American citizen whose connection with the River Plata 
dates so far back as 1808. During the Chilian War of 
Independence, Smiley served with great distinction under 
our lamented countryman Admiral Browne, and in sub- 
sequent years played a very conspicuous role in the 
waters of the south Pacific and Atlantic. He was born 
in Rhode Island in 1792, in the city of Providence, and 
well may that little State be proud of her sailor boy, who 
in his extraordinary career won the friendship and esteem 
of the savages in Patagonia, and the first statesmen of 
Europe and America. A man so universally esteemed 
must have had high claims to great philanthropy, and 
have proved himself in every sense a benefactor to 
humanity. 

" Captain Smiley was one of the most whole-souled 
fellows that ever breathed, and possibly no more noble 



ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 113 

epitaph could be inscribed over his grave than the long 
list of vessels, with their passengers and crews, which 
he has been instrumental in saving. 

" For upwards of forty years he acted as commercial 
agent for the United States at the Falkland Islands, 
where he established his headquarters. Although not 
belonging to the United States Navy, so highly did his 
country prize his services, that his little barque, the 
1 Kate Sargent/ carried her own guns, and her worthy 
commander wore the uniform of the service which his 
name adorned, yet not in commission. Mr. Seward 
(U. S. Secretary of State under President Lincoln), when 
a boy, was cared for by the subject of this memoir, and 
Lord Palmerston (English Prime Minister), in his long 
connection with foreign affairs, was so frequently brought 
in contact with the noble acts of the lamented Smiley, 
that he often expressed a hope that he might some day 
or other have the pleasure of meeting this extraordinary 
man. 

" The loss of Captain Smiley will be long felt, not only 
by the immediate circle of his friends, at home and 
abroad, but by the mercantile marine navigating the 
Straits of Magellan, where he was a sort of Neptune, 
intimately acquainted with every spot on the Pata- 
gonian coast, and the best pilot extant for the difficult 
navigation of the Straits. Captain Smiley ever found 
constant appeals for his services, either from suffering 
humanity, to further science in her discoveries, or forward 
commerce in her onward march. Success ever crowned 
his exertions, and he won the thanks of a trading world 
whilst he amassed a fortune for his family. We knew 
him, and proud are we to think that one of the privileges 
of an editorial career is to be thrown into contact with 
such men. Last year he visited this city in company 



114 OCEAN LIFE 

with two little orphans, the children of a dead friend, — 
whom he brought up at his own expense, — to see the 
cities of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. 

" The first gun that saluted the Fourth of July, 1867, 
in our harbor, was from the ' Kate Sargent/ and two 
years previously he joined the Fourth of July banquet 
at the Hotel Provence, and astonished the company by 
the naivete of his eloquence. 

" Men like Smiley pass from among us, but they leave 
their footprints. At his funeral in Montevideo, on Fri- 
day, the flags in the harbor hung at half-mast, and the 
American admiral attended with a full staff of officers, 
to pay the last tributes to one of the worthiest sons of 
New England. The Rev. Mr. Adams read the funeral 
service, a long line of carriages followed in the procession, 
and he who saved so many, at last found eternal sal- 
vation.' ; 



CHAPTER XII 
1853 - 1854 

FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS. — MAYAGUEZ, PORTO RICO. 
— SAVANNAH, GA. — ASHORE ON THE DRY TORTUGAS 

Stopping at Marblehead, my old home, for a few weeks, 
I passed the time in watching the fishermen fitting out 
their schooners for a " fall fare " to the Grand Banks and 
Quereau and taking aboard stores and water, and while 
in conversation with them I chanced to remark that I 
had never taken a trip to the Banks, as a boy, but would 
like to go very much. 

The next afternoon, which was the Sabbath, just 
after tea, there came a knock at the front door. There 
were no electric bells in those days, but we used the big 
old-fashioned brass knockers. Opening the door, I con- 
fronted Skipper Joshua Nickerson, of the good old 
schooner " Ceres." I asked him in, and he stated that he 
understood that I would like a trip to the Banks, and he 
would be pleased to have me go with him as navigator. 
Although in the science of cod-fishing he was a past 
master, he had not mastered the science of navigation. 
Considering a few moments, I quickly made up my mind, 
and asked the skipper what there would be in it. 

" A full share, and half the skippership," said he. 

This last was an extra remuneration of $75. 

116 



116 OCEAN LIFE 

I replied, " Well, skipper, I'll go," and the bargain 
was made. 

After a short conversation as to what I would require, 
this being a new business for me, he took his leave, and 
the following morning I went to work on board the 
" Ceres," as one of her crew, getting her ready. 

Fishing on the Banks at that time was very different 
from the present day. Then all fishing was done from 
the vessel, not with trawls and dories, as now carried on; 
the big moses boat at the stern davits, and perhaps a 
single dory on deck, were all the boats carried. I am now 
referring only to the Marblehead men; the French vessels 
on the Banks were all trawlers. 

The " catch " was divided into shares, the vessel taking 
three-eighths, while the remainingfive-eighths were divided 
among the skipper and crew. In fitting out, the vessel 
found what was called the " big general," consisting of 
beef and pork, bread, flour, bait, salt and water barrels, 
while each man furnished his small stores, known as the 
" small general," his tea, coffee, sugar, molasses, vinegar, 
and whatever his fancy dictated, in addition to his 
fishing gear, not forgetting a small brown jug of fine old 
Medford rum, as medical stores. 

The day for sailing having arrived, sweethearts and 
wives were bidden good-by, and with colors flying, we 
rounded Point Neck Light, the men glancing lingeringly 
back for a final look at the old town, and, perchance, a 
last look at the dear homes of some of the crew, where 
wives or mothers would anxiously wait the passing of the 
sad, weary days, ere they would again see their loved 
ones, if ever, for the Bank fishing, especially " fall fares " 
with the September gales, was a dangerous calling, as 
the town records of old Marblehead will show; but " men 
must work and women must weep," and however dan- 



FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 117 

gerous, there never lacked brave, hardy men to man her 
fishing fleet and take the chances, nor women to watch 
like " poor lone Hannah " in Lucy Larcom's poem, while 

" Round the rocks of Marblehead 
Outward bound a schooner sped.V 

We passed Marblehead Rock and Half-way Rock, the 
latter near enough to enable each man to throw on it 
a few eopper cents, for good luck, a custom religiously 
observed, in those days, by every Bank fisherman sailing 
from Marblehead, and was supposed to guarantee a good 
fare, if not " wetting their salt," i. e. using it all up. 

Arrived on Quereau, we sighted the fleet, coming to 
anchor just at sundown, and throwing over the lines, 
found the fish were biting well. 

The deck fittings when on the Banks were kids, or 
receptacles to hold the fish when caught. There were 
three on a side, even with the rail, extending to the 
deck, and they would hold two or three hundred fish. 

Fishing was done mostly at night; unless they were 
very sharp in the daytime, we improved the daylight 
to change our berth and throw over the gurry (refuse). 
The night watches consisted of two men at the lines for 
three hours and twenty minutes, when they were relieved 
by two more. 

The cook was called at four a. m. At six o'clock, all 
hands breakfasted while the cook tended the lines, after 
which came " dressing down." 

In the waist were high plank in squares, to hold the 
fish caught during the night, that were taken from the 
kids. These squares prevented the fish from slipping 
about the deck, and in them were stationed one or two 
men with sharp knives who cut the throats, and split 



118 OCEAN LIFE 

the fish, passing the same to the heading and splitting 
table, which extended about four feet from the rail to 
which it was attached. On one side stood the " header," 
whose business it was to sever the head and remove the 
refuse, dropping the livers in the baskets placed under- 
neath to receive them, from which when full they were 
emptied into the cod liver butt lashed alongside the rail 
just forward of the main rigging, to try out in the sun for 
the cod liver oil, a fine odorous compound after standing 
a month or so, but not unpleasant after one became 
accustomed to it, and very healthful. 

The fish having been passed across the table to the 
splitter, he, with two cuts, removed the backbone, send- 
ing it to the main hatch to the man who shot him down 
the hold to the Salter. This position was only held by 
an experienced hand, as too free use of salt would waste 
it, while not enough would cause the fish to burn or turn 
red, something that would hurt its marketable value. 
The tongues and sounds were generally cut out and 
cleaned by any of the men who wanted them for home 
use, as a delicious food supply for the family during the 
winter months. They packed them down in kegs or 
kits in their off hours. 

Great halibut were often caught, and besides furnishing 
a food supply, the " napes " were always saved by the 
crew, for smoking, after being cured. They hung them 
in the network under the deck of the forepeak. On the 
" Ceres " we had taken a new departure in having a 
stove in the cabin, all hands living aft, where all the 
cooking was done. This innovation was the death-blow 
to the old-fashioned Marblehead smoked halibut, although 
adding to the comfort of the crew. 

The old-fashioned forepeak, which was the foVsle, 
was fitted with a fireplace built of brick directly under 



FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 119 

the fore scuttle, from whence the smoke escaped, or was 
supposed to, but as a matter of fact, the forepeak was 
generally so filled with smoke that one could not see 
across it. Above the fireplace hung a heavy iron crane, 
from which was suspended a huge iron pot in which all 
the cooking was done. The tea and coffee were made in 
it, the chowder and meat were boiled in it, and it was 
put to every other use required in the culinary art. To 
get up and down one had to clamber over the steps made 
directly over the fire, as best he could. An unlucky 
slip might land him in the pot, but it was an ideal place 
to smoke halibut, as any old Marbleheader can testify. 
My old friend and schoolmate, Captain Eben Graves, 
used to tell many stories of the times when, as a boy, he 
went to the Grand Banks fishing in the old quarter- 
decker " Decatur." 

Saturday nights at six o'clock the lines were taken in, 
and not put out until six o'clock Sunday night, the 
cook being ordered to prepare a pot of rice chocolate. 
The big kettle was filled two-thirds full of water in which 
rice was boiled, with chocolate added. It was sweetened 
with molasses, and imbibed during the evening, hot, as 
a great treat, the occasion being a gala one, interspersed 
with song and story. Sunday was a day for general 
visiting among the fleet if the weather was good, as no 
fishing was carried on. 

For awhile the fishing continued good, and we were 
doing fine work, then it fell off, and we almost daily 
changed our berth. Gales and rough weather succeeded. 

At the end of three months we had salted down nearly 
sixteen thousand fish. We had lost all our fishing-anchors, 
and as the snow was beginning to make its appearance in 
the squalls, it was decided by Skipper Nickerson to bend 
" Big Ben " (the large mainsail) and head for home. 



120 OCEAN LIFE 

With strong northeast winds the " Ceres " scudded before 
the gale for two days, then light pleasant weather, with 
variable winds, succeeded. We spoke the American ship 
" Esther Barnby," bound for New York, with passengers 
for Liverpool, supplying her with fish and firewood, in 
return for which the captain sent on board two cases of 
assorted liquors, which were divided up among the crew 
and taken home for household use. 

Sighting Boston Light, we bore away for Marblehead 
Harbor, which we entered early in the morning, home 
again! 

Not stopping to wash out the fish, but employing a man 
in my place, I left my account to be settled with the 
owner in a friend's hands, and afterwards received some 
$300 as my share. 

Shipping as mate of the brig " L. & W. Armstrong," 
I made a voyage to Mayaguez, Porto Rico, loading salt at 
Turk's Island for return cargo to New Haven, where we 
arrived after an absence of fifty-eight days. 

Returning to Boston, I engaged as first officer on ship 
" James Guthrie," Captain Chase, bound in ballast for 
Savannah. The crew were colored, with a colored boat- 
swain, a very good set of men, and good sailors. A week 
from port the " Guthrie " encountered a very heavy gale. 
The steamer " San Francisco " was lost in this gale, and 
her passengers were rescued by the British ship " Three 
Bells," Captain Creighton. For ten hours we scud 
before it, under a close-reefed fore topsail, with the sheets 
eased off a fathom or so, and two men at the wheel with 
an officer conning them to see that they did not allow her 
to broach to, in which case, being so high out of water, 
she would undoubtedly have been on her beam-ends in 
a moment. 
There was not a high sea, the wind being so strong as 



FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 121 

to prevent its rising. It was covered with foam, snow 
white. We passed through the gale without the loss of 
a rope-yarn and made the land, coming to anchor in the 
Savannah River off Tybee Island. Captain Chase went 
up to the city on the tug, and returning the following 
day, we got under way and proceeded to Mobile Bay, 
rounding Abaco (Hole in the Wall), one of the Bahama 
group. 

We crossed the Great Bahama banks, as the ship, being 
in ballast, was of light draught. The moon was nearly at 
its full, and the white sand, only about twelve or fourteen 
feet below the surface, reflected in the bright moonlight, 
made the ship appear to be sailing through a sea of milk. 
The effect was beautiful. 

Passing Havana, we continued along the Cuban shore 
until, having rounded the Dry Tortugas, a few days more 
took us to the bar of Mobile Bay, which we crossed and 
came to anchor off Grant's Pass, when the tug coming 
alongside, Captain Chase took his departure for town. 
He returned the second day and informed me that the 
ship was chartered to load square timber for Ferrol, 
Spain. 

Five weeks passed ere our timber lading was completed. 
It was rafted alongside, and taken in at the bow ports, 
the work being done by a stevedore and his gang. The 
weather was extremely cold for a southern climate, ice 
forming nights as thick as window-glass, and sometimes 
a half-inch in thickness. Once a week, taking a boat's 
crew, and pulling into Grant's Pass, we would load the 
boat with the largest and most delicious oysters ever 
tasted; these we took on board, filling barrels with them, 
and all hands were allowed to help themselves until they 
were gone, when another trip would be made to load up. 
Captain Chase and family remained in Mobile, during 



122 OCEAN LIFE 

the ship's stay in port, the captain coming down on the 
tug weekly, and returning at once to town. 

Our second mate having been discharged while in the 
bay, I had been deputed to go to New Orleans and select 
a man to fill his position. I fortunately succeeded in find- 
ing a most capital officer and brought him over with me. 

We were now in readiness for sea. Stores were taken 
on board, the captain and his family came down on the 
tug, we weighed anchor, and in tow we again crossed 
the bar, outward bound. With a fine northerly wind we 
ran down the gulf, and on the third day after leaving 
port, while engaged in changing the fore to'gallant mast, 
the bos'n and two men being aloft, the cry of " Land, 
ho! " was called, and looking ahead, we could see the 
high part of the Dry Tortugas above the horizon. 

Glancing aft, I saw Captain Chase with a spy-glass 
looking at it, and gave it no more thought, being busy 
with the work, until suddenly the ship struck, bringing 
up on a sand-bar with a force that drove her well on, 
where she lay, heeled over, hard and fast. 

Sail was kept on for an hour, but with the appearance 
of a wrecking schooner beating up to us, Captain Chase 
gave the order to clew up and furl everything. On the 
arrival of the wrecker, the captain refused assistance, 
but next day made an arrangement to take Captain Chase 
to Key West, while I commenced discharging the timber, 
rafting it alongside, after which anchors were carried out, 
but all efforts to move her failed. 

After sticking on the bank a week, a towboat came up 
from Key West, and with the assistance of the wreckers, 
taking advantage of a very full tide, she finally succeeded 
in pulling the " Guthrie " off the bank, and took her 
in tow for Key West, where we safely arrived and pro- 
ceeded to discharge cargo and hold a survey. 



FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 123 

I knew the delay was going to be a long one, and I 
did not relish a stay of months at Key West, so I applied 
for my discharge, the crew having received theirs, and 
it was granted by Captain Chase, the second mate taking 
my place, and I took passage on the barque " Wheeler " 
for Boston, as passenger. 



CHAPTER XIII 
1854 - 1855 

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT. — CEYLON. — MAURITIUS. — 
ST. HELENA. NEW ORLEANS 

Arriving safely in Boston, after spending a week on 
shore I joined the " Elizabeth Kimball," a fine large ship 
of between eleven and twelve hundred tons, half clipper, 
as first officer, Captain Freeman commander, for a voyage 
to Calcutta and return. Loading ice at Tudor's Wharf, 
Charlestown, the stores were taken on board, and the 
crew brought over from Boston, the ship leaving the 
wharf in tow of a tugboat. We had one passenger, Mrs. 
Ladd, who was going out to join her husband, who was a 
merchant and in charge of the ice-houses at Calcutta. 

At this time the ice business with the far East was a 
great trade. Ice was carried out at a low rate of freight, 
preferably to the ship's going in ballast, and bringing 
high prices when retailed from the ice-houses, it became 
a complete monopoly and paid big profits. We had a 
pleasant voyage out to the equator in the Indian Ocean, 
crossing which, and passing Ceylon, we entered the Bay 
of Bengal. 

The southwest monsoon prevailing, we encountered high 
winds, with heavy squalls, thunder and lightning with 
rain in torrents, thick gloomy weather. We sailed along 
the west shore, passed Madras, and made the land on 

124 



CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 125 

the coast of Ganjam, where are located the three Jugger- 
naut pagodas, the central one containing the great car 
of Juggernaut upon which is seated the god himself. 
This temple is two hundred feet in height. The three 
are a fine landmark for ships making for the pilot brig 
lying at anchor on the tail of the sand-heads at the mouth 
of the Hoogly River, upon the banks of which stands 
the city of Calcutta, the capital of India. The pagodas 
of Ganjam are the Mecca for pilgrims from all parts of 
India, who make annual pilgrimages to see and worship 
their god Juggernaut. 

In former times, in the presence of tens of thousands, 
the great car, to which were attached huge coir cables, 
was drawn forth. The platform on which the image 
rests is thirty-four feet square, and the sixteen wheels 
are six and a half feet in diameter. The upper part is 
decorated with broadcloth in red and yellow stripes. 
The strong box near the idol is the depositary for his 
gold hands and feet, which, together with his shawls 
and jewels, are locked up in it at night. 

The ropes were seized by the assembled throng, and — 
the land about the pagodas being perfectly level — 
the immense image was drawn over the plains, with the 
great multitude shouting and singing, and beseeching 
their god to grant them his favor. Every little while 
some devotee would cast himself before the wheels, 
which would pass over and crush him, when hun- 
dreds of the worshippers would rush forward to dip 
a handkerchief, or some other article, in the blood of 
the victim, while a mighty shout would go up from the 
throng, at this act of devotion. The British government 
has long since stopped these self-sacrifices, and India, 
to-day, through a wise government, and the efforts of 
the missionary societies, has greatly altered. 



126 OCEAN LIFE 

Leaving Ganjam, we made out the pilot brig the fol- 
lowing night, and taking a pilot on board, passed Saugor 
Island, and entered the Hoogly River, coming to anchor 
off Kedgeree, the pilot station. A fine lighthouse stands 
on Saugor Island, surrounded by an iron fence as a 
protection against the tigers with which the island is 
infested. The Hoogly is a dangerous river, having a 
very swift current, with obstructions in parts of it, which 
might prove fatal to a ship if she took the ground. The 
pilots are a most skilful class of men in the management 
of a ship, having to serve a long apprenticeship as leads- 
man, second mate pilot, mate pilot, and finally master 
pilot, their term of service to master pilot covering some 
twenty years, during which time it is necessary to make 
two voyages to England, to become perfectly conversant 
with the workings of a ship. What they did not know 
about the working of a ship in a tideway, or swift current, 
was not worth knowing. From the moment they stepped 
on board, followed by their leadsmen and servants, 
their orders were law. 

Leaving Kedgeree, the ship proceeded up the river, 
at times doing tide work, and passing Diamond Harbor, 
and the James and Mary Shoals, safely, we arrived off 
Garden Reach, lined with elegant residences, among them 
the palace of the King of Oudh, passing which we came 
to anchor off Calcutta. 

Along the water front of the city are great mooring 
buoys, where the ships lie in tiers of twos or threes. The 
landings opposite these tiers, running up the bank from 
the river's edge, are called " ghauts." Going into moorings 
in the inner tier to discharge our ice, a bridge of boats 
was made, with a plank walk about four feet wide, from 
the bank to the ship, the ice blocks being hoisted from 
the hold and lowered over the ship's side upon the heads 



CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 127 

of three coolies stationed to receive them. It was very 
hot, and the moment the cold ice water began to trickle 
down their black backs, they would shiver, and strike 
a bee line for the ice-house, never stopping until their 
load was off their heads. During the discharging our 
ship was a popular resort for all the officers of the sur- 
rounding ships, and iced drinks were concocted in every 
shape. Barrels of apples that were buried in the sawdust 
in the hold were found when opened at the ice-house to 
be in good condition, the apples readily bringing from 
fifty to seventy-five cents each. 

While the ice lasted, we had no end of visitors. 

Captain Freeman lived on shore while the ship lay in 
port, and drove down daily in his buggy, coming on 
board for an hour or so. 

Calcutta, the capital of British India, is the chief 
commercial centre of Asia, and contains many institu- 
tions of learning. The spirit of caste is strong, and the 
contrast between the wealthy class and the masses, who 
suffer the most abject poverty, is very sharply drawn 
and painfully evident. 

Here is situated the residence of the English viceroy, 
a building of great magnificence, built on four sides of 
a beautiful garden. The Maidan, an esplanade extending 
a few miles along the river, forms a fashionable promenade, 
and parade ground for the military. One of its finest 
streets, otherwise unexceptionable, but without shade 
trees, is called " Clive " after a British nobleman who 
was prominent in the acquisition of the territory of India, 
and the subjugation of her people to the British Crown. 
In the heated term most of the English residents leave 
the city, in which the mercury sometimes rises to 120° 
in the shade, and breathe the cooler atmosphere of the 
Himalayas, the nearest range being about 1,200 miles 



128 OCEAN LIFE 

from Calcutta. Those who are compelled to remain in 
the city, seek after sunset the cool breezes of the esplanade. 

The natives moved about freely in the extreme heat, 
being clothed entirely in white as a protection from the 
sun's fierce rays, their heads protected by immense white 
turbans. Although the presence of European characteris- 
tics might be noted in almost every prominent street, 
Hindooism forced itself upon the attention against the 
strong background of English prejudice and customs, 
and bodies were cremated at the burning ghauts, while 
the ashes and partly burned remains were thrown into 
the river as of old. It was a common thing in the morning 
to clear away four or five corpses from the ship's gangway. 

With the exception of a ride along the strand on 
Sunday afternoons, there was very little shore visiting, 
it was so hot and sultry. The atmosphere, charged with 
moisture, made it anything but pleasant to go around 
sightseeing, and the officers found it much more to their 
taste remaining on board, or visiting from ship to ship 
among themselves. These gatherings in the evenings on 
board some of their respective ships were jolly affairs, 
and highly enjoyed by all. 

Having taken on a cargo of jute, saltpetre, and other 
products of India, in due course our lading was com- 
pleted, and the ship unmoored, and hauled into the 
stream in charge of the harbor pilot. Dropping down to 
Garden Reach below the city, we came to anchor, awaiting 
the coming on board of the captain and river pilot, who 
made their appearance on the following morning, when 
the anchor was weighed and the ship proceeded down 
the river. 

Five days later, we passed Saugor, discharging our 
pilot at the pilot brig, and the ship commenced her beat 
down the Bay of Bengal, against a strong southwest 



CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 129 

monsoon. Very bad weather prevailed, with high winds 
and fierce squalls, copious rains accompanied by vivid 
lightning and heavy thunder, compelling the carrying 
of short canvas, double and close reefs a part of the time, 
while the heavy seas made progress slow, and three 
weeks elapsed ere we were up with Ceylon. Gradually 
the weather grew better after getting south of the Anda- 
man Islands. 

One night, when off the southern end of Ceylon, we were 
sailing with a smooth sea and an eight-knot breeze, the 
moon being near its full, and about four bells in the mid- 
watch, while sitting on the weather side watching the 
ship's progress, and admiring the beauty of the night, 
the ship suddenly seemed to stop, the sails that had been 
rounded out asleep flapped violently, back and forth, 
and there was a rumbling sound that seemed to proceed 
from the hold, with a trembling throughout, as though 
the keel was dragging across a reef. For a moment I was 
startled, thinking we had struck a shoal, but an instant's 
reflection convinced me there were no shoals in that 
vicinity, and it flashed upon my mind that we had 
experienced a submarine earthquake, and a severe shock 
at that. 

Captain Freeman rushed on deck, as well as the watch, 
but finding no cause for alarm, again went below. 

Taking the S. E. trades fresh, the course was shaped for 
the south end of Madagascar, when the ship sprung a 
leak that made lively work at the pumps. The heavy 
seas in the Bay of Bengal, against which the ship had 
been driven, had started the wood ends about the water- 
line, causing the oakum to work out, developing a leak 
which grew worse daily until it took two thousand strokes 
per hour to keep her free. As the leak was known to be 
just below the water-line, alongside the stem, Captain 



130 OCEAN LIFE 

Freeman decided to touch at Mauritius, an island in the 
Indian Ocean about five hundred miles east of Madagascar, 
and without entering Port Louis, come to anchor in 
smooth water just outside the port, when, by shifting 
everything aft, bringing the leak out of water, it could 
be got at and stopped. This was successfully accom- 
plished. Raising the island in the forenoon, we ran in 
for the port, and dropped anchor in smooth water. 

Rolling all water casks aft, bringing the stem out so 
the carpenter could get to work, before night the leak was 
stopped, and gave us no more trouble during the home- 
ward voyage. It was a good piece of work. 

Mauritius was discovered by the Portuguese in 1505, 
and came into possession of the British in 1814. Port 
Louis, the capital, has a population of about 65,000. It 
has a considerable trade, its chief export being raw sugar. 

Getting under way in the early morning, we passed 
Reunion, or Bourbon Isle, lying one hundred and ten 
miles southwest from Mauritius, that evening. This 
island has an active volcano, upwards of 10,000 feet in 
height, which was in a state of eruption as we passed. 
The molten lava was distinctly visible running down its 
sides in rivers of flame, presenting a most beautiful 
appearance, as seen from the ship. 

Passing Madagascar, we soon sighted the land east of 
Cape Agulhas, and taking a stiff gale, we stood to the 
south'ard, and rounding the Cape of Good Hope, two 
days later, the " Elizabeth Kimball " passed St. Helena 
in ten days from the Cape. 

This island, famous for being the prison of Napoleon I. 
from 1815 to the time of his death, in 1821, lies about 
1,200 miles west from the coast of Africa. It has an area 
of 47 square miles, with a population of about two thou* 
sand, and is an important coaling station. 



CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 131 

Fine S. E. trades prevailing, we made good progress 
towards the equator, all hands being busily employed in 
the usual ship's work described in the foregoing chapters. 
Crossing the line, we experienced a few days of light winds 
with rain squalls, then the trades, when tarring down, 
painting and putting the ship in fine shape for our home 
port was the order of the day. 

Having passed the Bermudas and the Gulf Stream, 
we struck soundings, heading for the South Channel 
between Georges Banks and Cape Cod. 

Favoring winds, but foggy weather, prevailing, we were 
bowling along about eight bells in the last dog-watch, 
when the ship struck on the south shoal of the island of 
Nantucket, with a force that startled all hands. 

" Hard up! " came the order, and the " Elizabeth 
Kimball " responded. She never fully stopped, but 
dragging through the sand, paid off, and in a few moments 
was clear from the shoal, having just scraped its outer 
edge, and sustained no serious damage. The fog pre- 
vented our seeing anything. It was a narrow squeak, 
but in this case, " a miss was as good as a mile." 

Rounding Cape Cod Light the following morning, and 
taking a pilot on board, passing Boston Light and the 
islands of the harbor, we let go our anchor one hundred 
and twenty-two days from Calcutta. 

The cargo having been discharged and crew paid off, 
I spent a few weeks at Marblehead, and then joined the 
barque " Glen " as mate for a voyage to New Orleans. 
We loaded at Rockland, Maine, with lime. Nearly four 
months were occupied on this voyage, the greater part 
being spent at New Orleans, where an epidemic of yellow 
fever was raging. Captain Samuel Prentiss having left 
the barque in Rockland, he was succeeded by Captain 
Green of Portland, who was laid up in hospital at New 



132 OCEAN LIFE 

Orleans for over a month, with the yellow fever. The 
second officer and myself were the only ones on board, 
the crew having left on arrival. 

Neither of us took the fever, which may have been on 
account of our cargo. The lime having shrunk the 
barrels so that they literally fell to pieces, the best part 
of the cargo had to be shovelled out. The lime was all 
over everything, and in every corner and crevice of the 
ship. Owing to the scarcity of men, it was a long time 
before it could be discharged. The death rate, while we 
were lying in the port, was from five hundred to seven 
hundred daily, but by the latter part of September it 
began to abate. 

Loading molasses for Boston, on October 12th, we took 
our departure from the city in tow, and reaching the bar 
the next morning, I never sniffed anything so delicious 
as the cool, salt breezes that came from the gulf, laden 
with a saline fragrance that we inhaled in long draughts, 
grateful enough to our senses, after having been penned 
up in New Orleans nearly all summer with an epidemic 
of yellow fever raging. We came to anchor for twenty- 
four hours to see if any new cases developed, and finding 
none, we got under way, and proceeded on our voyage. 

Entering the bay, and making Boston Light, when 
within two or three miles we hove to for a pilot. 

The weather was cold and raw, with indications of 
snow, and shortly after midnight it began to fall and the 
wind to rise, when, seeing no chance of a pilot and the 
light beginning to shut in with the snow, Captain Green, 
after a consultation with me, concluded to run in without 
a pilot. Keeping her off, we passed the light and kept 
a sharp lookout for the buoy on the tail of the Centurion 
Shoal, when picking it up, the barque was rounded to 
under the lee of George's Island, coming to anchor in the 



CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 133 

roads. By daylight it was raining and blowing hard, 
but procuring a towboat, we picked up our anchor, 
and inside of two hours made fast alongside of Battery 
Wharf. 



CHAPTER XIV 
1856 - 1857 

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS. — OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 
SOCIAL LIFE IN CALCUTTA. — ANIMAL LIFE ON SHIP- 
BOARD 

About ten days after my return, I met Captain Edward 
Meacom of Beverly, then commanding the ship " Brutus," 
and I engaged with him as first officer, for a voyage to 
Calcutta and return, reporting for duty on the ship, which 
lay at Charlestown, loading ice at Tudor's Wharf. The 
" Brutus " was a fine ship of about a thousand tons 
burthen; a regular Calcutta trader. This would be 
Captain Meacom's seventeenth consecutive voyage to 
that port. It proved to be one of the most pleasant and 
agreeable voyages I ever made as chief officer. 

Captain Meacom was the most genial and gentlemanly 
of shipmasters. 

A sailor, every inch of him, a good disciplinarian, 
never profane or overbearing, treating officers and men 
in a manner that endeared them to him, yet exacting 
perfect obedience to orders, and permitting no undue 
familiarity. 

Our ice lading completed, and stores taken in, the 
crew came on board. It comprised fourteen able seamen, 
two ordinary, and four boys, the latter from Beverly 
and all known to Captain Meacom, who took a great 
interest in them. The officers, besides myself, were Mr, 

134 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 135 

Edmund Kimball, second, with Mr. Frank Rogers, a 
nephew of Captain Meacom, as third mate. A carpenter, 
cook and steward completed our ship's complement. 
Sailing with brisk westerly winds, rounding Cape Cod, 
and passing out of the South Channel, we entered the 
Gulf Stream, where the nose of the " Brutus " was pointed 
to the eastward, and, favored by fresh, westerly gales, 
the old ship made good time towards the region of the 
N. E. trades. 

Getting into good steady weather, one evening in the 
dog-watch Captain Meacom and I had a long talk, and 
he gave me his ideas relative not only to the work on 
shipboard, but the course to be pursued with the boys 
and crew, to make everything pleasant on a long voyage, 
saying that much depended on the officers. He would 
give the men all privileges consistent with good discipline, 
but a firm, steady course of the same to be adhered to, 
and no abuse of men, no cursing or profanity allowed 
or practised by officers. An order given must be obeyed 
at once, and while kind to the crew, the officers should 
permit no familiarity. They should have good food and 
plenty of it, with plenty of work and no idle moments 
for the men when on duty. 

Saturday afternoon was to be given Jack to get the 
foVsle washed out, and do his own washing and mending, 
so there could be no excuse for doing this work on the 
Sabbath. Sunday was to be a day of rest, no work 
permitted except making, taking in, and trimming of 
sails, while Sunday morning, weather permitting, divine 
service was to be held on the quarter-deck, which all 
hands, dressed neatly, would be required to attend. 

The booby hatch, covered with the American ensign, 
on which was to be placed the Bible and prayer-book, 
would be the reading-desk. 



136 OCEAN LIFE 

All this was something new in my seagoing experience, 
I never having served on a ship where services were held 
on the Sabbath. I, however, acquiesced, telling Captain 
Meacom that I believed the idea a good one. He wished, 
also, to have a school for the boys to attend and study 
navigation, open to any one who wished to do so. Mr. 
Frank Rogers, third officer, who was a good scholar and 
a fine mathematician, was to have charge and coach the 
boys, while I superintended the arrangement generally. 

The steerage under the booby hatch having been cleared, 
a room with bunks around it was fitted up by " Chips " 
(the carpenter) as quarters for the boys, ordinaries and 
carpenter; Captain Meacom deeming it better for them, 
as well as for the purposes of study, that they should live 
separate from the crew, but in no sense as an afterguard. 

Taking the trades, the weather was superb, flying-fish 
in shoals, while dolphin, bonita and albecore were 
caught almost daily, affording a table supply of fresh 
fish, fore and aft. The first Sabbath for Sunday service 
arrived, causing a ripple of excitement throughout the 
ship. I had notified the crew Saturday afternoon that 
services would be held on the quarter-deck the following 
morning from ten to eleven o'clock, and every man was 
requested, unless sick, to be present, neatly dressed. 
Every officer would attend, and they would expect to see 
every man present. 

Sunday was a beautiful day, trades steady, not over 
strong, light, fleecy clouds around the horizon, and a 
quiet Sabbath hush pervading the ship. 

At 9.30, chairs for Captain Meacom and officers were 
brought from the cabin by the steward and placed about 
the booby hatch, and on the stroke of four bells (10 a. m.), 
the order was passed by Mr. Kimball, " All hands aft 
to attend service! " 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 137 

The men responded by filing aft, seating themselves 
on the spare spars lashed along the waterways. All 
were clean, and neatly dressed, presenting a good appear- 
ance, an expectant look on most of their faces, showing 
this was an entirely new departure in their logs, but with 
all a most respectful demeanor. 

Captain Meacom, when all were seated, made a good, 
fatherly address, pointing out to the men how much time 
was wasted in a sailor's life, that could be put to a good 
use; the desecration of the Sabbath, both ashore and 
afloat; that the day was appointed by God as a day of 
rest, and for the worship of the Heavenly Father; that 
when they spent the day seeking their own pleasure and 
gratification rather than in a manner suitable to His holy 
will, they were robbing no less a personage than the 
Almighty Himself. If they would only take this to heart 
and impress it upon themselves, there would be no danger 
of their trifling away the hours that God had set apart 
for His own glory, and His creatures' good. 

He dwelt upon the brevity in general of a sailor's 
life, and the importance of being at all times prepared 
for the great change, and said he would read some selected 
passages of Scripture and prayers from the ritual for 
" services at sea," ending with a hymn, after which good 
books from the ship's library would be distributed among 
them, to be exchanged each Sunday, or as soon as read. 

The men listened respectfully throughout the services, 
^and at six bells (11 a. m.) all hands were dismissed, 
seeming to have enjoyed the meeting very much. 

These Sunday gatherings were observed weekly, until 
the weather rendered it inconvenient to hold them, and 
the library was always open for books. 

In the meantime the school of navigation prospered. 
The boys could " fudge " (get through) a day's work, 



138 OCEAN LIFE 

while all were required to keep a log, or journal, which 
was open to inspection by Mr. Rogers, and looked over 
by myself as often as once a week, all errors corrected 
and suggestions made. 

Entering the doldrums (the space between the north- 
east and southeast trades at the equator), light airs from 
all quarters were experienced, with calms and rain squalls, 
accompanied by thunder and lightning. 

Waterspouts were frequent, no less than eight being 
sighted one afternoon; one of them quite near the ship. 
Waterspouts, being miniature tornadoes on the water, are 
ugly things to come in contact with, a wreckage of spars, 
at least, is a pretty sure result of one crossing a ship. 

After a week's delay, taking the S. E. trades fresh, 
the " Brutus " made good time south. 

Each night new stars and constellations appeared in 
the heavens, while the " Southern Cross " and " Magellan 
clouds " shone resplendent in the dark blue sky. 

From early boyhood astronomy possessed a fascination 
for me. I would pass hours at night studying the heavenly 
bodies with the greatest delight, and in later years, at 
sea, to me it was the greatest mystery how any one who 
had had the privilege of looking upon the nightly glories 
of the firmament, in the northern and southern hemi- 
spheres, could ever doubt the existence of a divine being, 
an all-wise ruler of the universe. 

It was a pleasure to talk over with the boys the names 
of constellations, with the magnitudes of different stars 
and planets, and impart what little knowledge I possessed 
of astronomy, but the approach to the Cape of Good 
Hope, and the advent of strong gales with rough weather, 
put an end to our star-gazing for the time being. 

Crossing the meridian of the Cape, the " Brutus " 
drove on before fine westerly gales, accompanied by snow 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 139 

and hail squalls, covering between two hundred and three 
hundred miles daily. 

Passing the rocky islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam, 
which are of volcanic origin, we bore away north for the 
S. E. trades and the equator. The youngsters by this 
time had made good use of their hours below, and could 
take a meridian observation and find their latitude at 
noon, take a morning or afternoon sight, finding their 
longitude by chronometer time, and keep the run of the 
ship almost as well as the officers. Their journals were well 
kept, much to Captain Meacom's satisfaction, who often 
remarked, " The time given to these boys, Mr. Whidden, 
will be repaid in the knowledge that they will be fitted 
for their profession. These boys in time will become 
officers and rise to the command of our ships, and in case 
of trouble with foreign nations, our ships will become 
the nurseries of seamen for our navy, and if every ship- 
master would take three or four boys each voyage, good 
boys of good families, give them time to study, and devote 
attention to their training, in a few years a change for 
the better would appear, a great improvement in our 
merchant marine would result, and in time of war our 
country would be the gainer." 

These words of Captain Meacom, in 1856, seemed pro- 
phetic in view of the breaking out of the war, in 1861, 
when the United States Navy was largely recruited from 
the merchant marine. 

We passed up the Bay of Bengal on the last end of 
the southwest monsoon, and experienced light winds 
and generally pleasant weather. We made the pilot 
brig, and taking a pilot on board, an old acquaintance 
of Captain Meacom, entered the Hoogly, proceeding up 
the river. A Hindoo religious festival was being held 
at Saugor Island, and the river was covered with boats 



140 OCEAN LIFE 

decorated with flowers containing gaily dressed natives, 
male and female, all bound for the island to take part 
in the rites. These consisted, in part, of offering their 
female children to the immense crocodiles that swarmed 
in the waters of the Hoogly and especially around 
Saugor at this time. The cries and shrieks of the victims 
were drowned in the music and shouting of the multitude. 

This custom of sacrificing female children has since been 
done away with by the government. 

Arrived at Calcutta, he " Brutus " went into moorings, 
and made ready to discharge her cargo of ice, and the 
northeast monsoon setting in, the cool season was inaugu- 
rated, making life more endurable than on my former 
visit. 

Calcutta in the northeast monsoon is a very different 
place from what it is when the southwest monsoon pre- 
vails. It was now cool, delightful weather, and we 
indulged in more shore excursions than on my former 
trip. On a visit to the botanical gardens lying on the 
opposite bank and down the river a few miles, we saw, 
among other objects of interest, the great banyan tree, 
described by Milton, as, 

" Branching so broad and long, that in the ground 
The bending twigs take root: and daughters grow 
About the mother tree; a pillared shade, 
High overarched, with echoing walls between." 

An army of ten thousand could repose beneath its 
branches. 

Although called a single tree, in reality it is a great 
many. As the branches shoot out from the parent stem 
or trunk, offshoots from them descend into the earth 
and take root; these in turn grow and send out more 
shoots, which descend and take root, until from a single 



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CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 141 

trunk an immense space is covered, and the banyan tree 
becomes the home of millions of birds of every description, 
with colonies of monkeys, while beneath its grateful 
shade the native finds protection from the scorching rays 
of the midday sun. 

During the discharging of our ice cargo, as in the 
" Elizabeth Kimball," we had lots of visitors, and iced 
lemonade and other concoctions were much in evidence 
while the ice lasted. The reunions aboard each other's 
ships in the evenings were scenes of hilarity and good- 
fellowship. The ship on which a gathering was to be held 
on any particular occasion was always in readiness to 
receive, the officer taking a pride in having everything 
in good shape, generally a nice spread, with all incidentals 
conductive to a jolly time, but everything within the 
bounds of decorum and good order. Well I remember 
our visits to the good old ship " Walpole," Captain Wood- 
bury of Beverly, whose specialty was baked beans, and 
his first officer always had several pots ready baked to 
set before us. They were cooked in old New England 
style, that could not be obtained outside its limits except 
by a cook who had served his apprenticeship in Beverly 
or Marblehead, and the cook of the " Walpole " was a 
native of the former town. With what gusto we cleared 
the table; after which Mr. Lovering might have made 
use of the exclamation attributed to old Mrs. Humphrey 
of Marblehead. Mrs. Humphrey kept a boarding-house 
in the old town, and when one of her boarders asked for 
more beans, while several others waited expectantly, 
she ladled out the last spoonful in the dish; and beaming 
around the table, exclaimed, "There! I calculated on 
just enough to a bean! " 

The buggy rides along the strand (river front), on a 
Sunday afternoon, were charming. The road leading 



142 OCEAN LIFE 

along the river's bank gave a fine opportunity of viewing 
all the shipping in port, each ship decked out with its 
national colors and numeral flags, making a fine show. 
One was constantly passing the most elegant equipages 
of the wealthy English residents. Fine carriages con- 
taining army and navy officers in their rich uniforms 
rolled smoothly along over the finest of roads, while 
wealthy natives and baboos (merchants), in gorgeous 
costumes, mingled with the throng, each carriage having 
its native coachman and footman clad in immaculate 
white with great snowy turbans, while the native syce, 
or groom, that accompanied each equipage, carriage or 
humble buggy, ran ahead of the vehicle, waving his arms 
and shouting in Hindostanee: 

" Clear the way, clear the way! make room for the 
Sahib! " 

After the afternoon drive the English residents take 
their bath and prepare for dinner, the meal of the day. 
In fashionable society these are generally " swell " 
affairs. 

Both officers and boys on the " Brutus " had ample 
opportunity of shore visiting while in port, and the crew 
had their shore leave each Sunday in alternate watches, 
being well supplied with liberty money. During our 
stay in port I never saw any drinking, or a crew less 
inclined to dissipation on shore. 

We loaded with the usual Calcutta cargo, jute butts, 
etc., and were again ready for sea. Captain Meacom, 
who always liked fresh milk night and morning in his 
tea and coffee, brought from home a milch goat, and 
another was procured for the return voyage, in addition 
to which was a large stock of pigs, goats, geese, ducks, 
chickens, and a big flock of pigeons, fantails and other 
kinds. Captain Meacom believed in having plenty of 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 143 

live stock on board, and when it could be obtained as 
cheaply as in Calcutta, always laid in a big supply. The 
decks were literally packed with coops and pig-pens. 

In addition to stock, the boys and crew had great 
numbers of pets, — comprising cockatoos, parrots, minas 
and Java sparrows, besides a few monkeys of various 
sizes. 

Sailing down the river with a fair wind, we passed the 
James and Mary Shoals, Diamond Harbor, Kedgeree, 
and Saugor Island, discharged the pilot at the pilot 
station, and with fine weather and a fair wind proceeded 
down the bay. 

What a change from our passage down in the " Eliza- 
beth Kimball," when gales, torrential rains, thunder 
and lightning prevailed, with tremendous seas into which 
the ship drove, straining in every timber day after day. 
Now, fine, beautiful weather with clear skies, sea as 
smooth, almost, as a pond, and great water snakes 
swimming about in all directions, with occasionally a big 
turtle asleep on the water. 

We passed Ceylon with its spicy breezes, and crossed 
the equator in ten days from the pilot brig; taking the 
trades not over strong, our course was shaped for the 
Cape of Good Hope. Nothing of note occurred until 
nearly up with Cape Agulhas. 

On our passage down the Bay of Bengal, Captain 
Meacom conceived the idea of building a model house for 
the stock that would do away with the great number of 
coops scattered about the deck, and confine all in one 
space, yet have them separate from each other. 

Utilizing the capstan on the main deck, the carpenter 
inserted joists into the handspike-holes. These joists 
extended nearly to each side, leaving a good passageway 
between, and coming, also, within two feet or so of the 



144 OCEAN LIFE 

fife-rail around the mainmast, and within four feet of 
the cabin entrance; in short, the house took up pretty 
much all the main deck abaft the mainmast. On each 
side were very large coops that drew out and pushed in, 
like a chest of drawers. On one side were kept the geese, 
the other ducks, and the other two chickens and fowls. 
In the centre were the goats, while the whole upper part 
was devoted to pigeons, who roosted on the joists, and 
flew around the ship, passing back and forth through the 
holes made for them, always returning at night to their 
coop. By the time we were up with the Cape, the cook 
had made large inroads upon them, but there still remained 
a goodly number, besides the pigs that were kept in the 
large sties forward by themselves. 

Just east of Cape Agulhas, the " Brutus " took a sharp, 
short gale, with very high sea. Under a close-reefed main 
topsail and foretopmast staysail, she had been standing 
to the south'ard, when the order was given to " wear 
ship." With the wheel aweather, she came gracefully 
round on the port tack, heading to the north'ard. This 
brought the sea well on our port bow. 

Half an hour passed, when glancing up from something 
I was about at the time, I saw towering high above the 
bulwarks a great curling wave just ready to break. With 
a yell to the men to look out for themselves, I seized a 
piece of running gear, passing several turns around my 
body, and a spare spar. The next instant the crash 
came. Driving with the force and fury of an avalanche, 
the wave swept over us, starting the forward house, filling 
the decks with water, and knocking the model stock house 
into smithereens, while the live stock were in a moment 
swimming and floating around the deck. 

Finding no one was injured or swept overboard, all 
hands were ordered to save the stock and throw them 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 145 

into the cabin doorway, so wading into the water and 
grabbing what they could lay lay their hands on, the 
crew threw geese, chickens, ducks and pigeons into the 
cabin companionway, while large numbers were lost. 

Between the forward part of the after house and main 
cabin was a wide passageway, with my stateroom on 
one side and the second mate's on the other, mine unfor- 
tunately being to leeward. 

Knocking out two side ports, the ship quickly freed 
herself from water. 

I had taken with me on that voyage a dog, named 
" Dash." In bad weather he usually took up his quarters 
in my stateroom, the door to which was a sliding one. 
Before the catastrophe this door had accidentally been 
left open, and afterwards had been closed by some one, 
and on opening it when I went below, after all was in 
order again, to change my wet clothes, a comical sight 
met my eyes. 

My pillow was occupied by a big goat, who glared 
defiance at the dog, who stood at the foot of the berth, 
and a pig reclined in the centre, while all around were 
chickens, geese, and pigeons wringing wet, and everything 
in the room, bedding and bedclothes, were soaking. There 
was about six inches of water washing about the deck. 
Calling several of the men, I had the stock cleared out 
and everything righted. This was the only unlucky sea 
we shipped for the voyage. 

Shortly after the gale moderated sail was made, and, 
the wind favoring, we slid by Agulhas, with the land well 
aboard, to catch the strong westerly current that prevails 
close alongshore. 

Having passed the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Town, 
the south Atlantic seemed like again entering home waters. 
Fresh breezes soon brought us up to St. Helena, and 



146 OCEAN LIFE 

from now on the youngsters got a good insight into 
ship's work, besides being put through a course of instruc- 
tion in lunars, Captain Meacom daily taking a series of 
distances, and having the boys work them out for the 
longitude under the guidance of Mr. Rogers. Before 
they reached the equator, they had attained great pro- 
ficiency in taking and working out lunar observations. 

The ship, in common with all Calcutta traders, was 
infested with cockroaches of enormous size, some of them 
being two and even three inches, in length. 

Although only cockroaches, they were most destructive. 
Just before rain they would swarm out of the after hatch 
in clouds, the helmsman being obliged to keep his hat or 
cap waving to keep them clear from his face, while the 
decks at night would be almost covered with them, and 
in stepping on them an explosion would follow with a 
report similar to the crack of a small pistol. When 
painting ship they would eat the paint from the plank- 
sheer and waterways at night, about as fast as it could 
be put on, seeming to thrive and grow fat on a diet of 
white lead and " Paris green." Holes were eaten through 
the plank-sheer, and, on discharging our cargo in New 
York, we found they had eaten holes in the solid oak bitts 
between decks into which one could almost insert one's 
fist. Beyond biting at sleeping Jack's hair and finger- 
nails, which latter they would often gnaw to the quick, 
they did not trouble us with their carnivorous propen- 
sities, but the odor from them was most offensive. Noth- 
ing but drowning them out by sinking the ship seems to 
have any effect in killing them, and that is not always 
convenient. In the " Elizabeth Kimball " we had a 
few, but nothing as compared with the " Brutus," that 
had been for many years in the East India trade. 

Carrying the trades across the equator and experiencing 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 147 

neither calms nor light airs, the wind gradually drawing 
around to E. N. E. and freshening, sliding into the N. E. 
trades without an effort, we now came to the last quarter 
on the home stretch. All hands, fore and aft, were 
feeling in good spirits, and all, especially the youngsters, 
eagerly looking forward to a safe and speedy arrival at 
New York and old Beverly, where the joyous " welcome 
home " awaited them. I would frequently hear the 
boys in the dog-watches rehearsing their plans of what 
they would do after they should arrive; wondering 
whether this or that girl had been staunch and true, 
and if so-and-so were married? A day of particularly 
fresh trades always elicited the remark, " Ah! the Beverly 
girls have got hold of the tow-line sure." 

The fields of floating gulfweed had a home look, while 
every vessel sighted was a subject of speculation as to 
where she was from, how long out, and where bound. 
We would often signal, if convenient, by Maryatt's code, 
and all these questions would be answered, with many 
others. 

Passing the Bermudas and Cape Hatteras, we crossed 
the Gulf Stream with a rattling breeze, heaving to at 
midnight for soundings which showed ninety fathoms. 
We took a pilot on board off Barnegat Light, and he 
received a most royal welcome. He brought the papers 
with him, giving us all the news, and they were passed 
around to all hands. 

Sandy Hook passed, we hove to at quarantine for the 
doctor, but his visit was short. He made an examination 
of all hands, and finding every one in good condition, 
and being shown a clean bill of health from Calcutta, 
which was an open sesame, he passed us to the city of 
New York, off which we dropped anchor opposite the 
Battery until it was known where we were to dock. 



148 OCEAN LIFE 

My second voyage to Calcutta was ended. 

Runners from the sailors' boarding-houses now came 
on board to make arrangements with the crew to stop 
at one or the other of their houses, but not a man was 
allowed to be taken out of the ship until she was fast at 
the dock. I also gave the men a little advice against 
drinking with them, almost every runner having a bottle 
of spirits, and I was pleased to see my advice generally 
followed. When the ship was taken by tugboat to dock 
the following day and tied up to the pier, every man, when 
he left the ship with the runners, was sober, the only ones 
at all intoxicated being the runners themselves. 

The youngsters, with ordinaries, got their meals at a 
restaurant but a short distance from the ship, until all 
hands were paid oif, two days later, when they took 
their departure for their homes. 

Remaining on board until the cargo was discharged, 
I took my meals on shore, and slept on the ship. 

It was a queer sight at the dock when the bales of jute 
were hoisted out of the ship's hold. Each one was black 
with the most enormous roaches, and the instant the bale 
touched the dock they would scamper in all directions. 
The ship was lying at the foot of Wall Street, and people 
who had met swarms of them travelling up the street, 
evidently bound up " on change," came on board to 
inquire what species of bird they were, never having seen 
their like before. 

The cargo being all right, I was paid off, and taking 
passage for Boston on the Fall River line of steamers, 
arrived safely and took up my residence there for the 
time being. 

This practically ended my services as first officer. I 
was now on the lookout for a command, which was hard 
to obtain without influence or money to buy into a ship. 



CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 149 

Becoming an owner of a small portion, an eighth, six- 
teenth, or even a thirty-second ownership in a craft, may 
insure a captaincy, but this I did not have, and so had 
to depend upon my record as first officer. 



CHAPTER XV 

1857 - 1858 

— HURRICANE OFF RIO 
DE LA PLATA. BUENOS AYRES IN WINTER. — DIN- 
NERS, LUNCHES, HORSEBACK RIDING. BARQUE ON FIRE 

A month passed, and though I kept watch of all ships 
arriving, making inquiries if there would be a vacancy, 
and applying if there was one, I was either too late, or 
found that almost every ship-owner had some one he 
knew who wanted a position, and for every vacancy 
there seemed to be ten applications; but, never relaxing 
my efforts, I called one day at the office of an old-time 
ship-owner whom I knew, Mr. Daniel Deshon, who was 
located on Doane Street. Finding him alone, and at 
leisure, I asked him frankly if he had or would be likely 
to have a vessel for which he would want a captain, and 
if he should have, would he give the command to me, 
knowing me as he did; and I referred to Captain Meacom 
and others, as to competency, etc. 

He replied that it was not necessary to give references, 
he had known me a long time, and did not question my 
ability, ending by telling me that he had the barque 
" Little Lizzie," about four hundred tons burthen, that 
he had been trying to sell, and if not successful the coming 
week, he should load her with lumber and send her out 
to Buenos Ayres, and would be pleased to give me the 

150 



CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 151 

command, adding that in addition to her freight out, I 
might get a chance to sell her at the river (Rio de la 
Plata) at a better price than could be obtained in Boston. 
Going out from his office, I went home happy, the only 
concern I had being the fear that some one might buy her 
before she was taken off the market, but no such calamity 
occurred. I was informed, in due course, that she would 
load for Buenos Ayres, and I could at once take command. 
This I lost no time in doing, and having shipped my 
officers, I made out a list of stores needed for the voyage, 
and ordered the shipping master to engage a crew, also 
purchasing such instruments and charts as were neces- 
sary. 

The lading completed, the crew were ordered on board 
and the pilot notified, and taking my final instructions 
from Mr. Deshon, the owner, I repaired to the barque, 
where I found all in readiness for sea. 

Although she was a little craft, I stepped over the gang- 
way with as much pride as though she had been an 
eighteen-hundred-ton ship, and giving orders to cast off, 
sail having been made at the wharf, the " Little Lizzie " 
was pointed down the harbor, passed the islands, and 
through the narrows, and arriving at Boston Light, the 
pilot, after wishing me a pleasant voyage, took his depar- 
ture. 

In addition to the lumber below, a deck-load had been 
added which came just even with the rails, leaving a 
space around the mainmast and pumps. Stanchions 
were placed around the barque's sides through which 
life-lines were now rove as a precaution against any one 
going overboard in a blow or seaway. Passing Minot's 
Light, we were soon up with the highlands of Cape Cod, 
and our course shaped out of the South Channel, clear 
of which, the barque was pointed to the eastward. 



152 OCEAN LIFE 

On trying the pumps the first night it was soon apparent 
that either they had been standing a long while, or the 
" Little Lizzie " was sadly in need of caulking below the 
water-line. It gave me no uneasiness, however, as I 
felt it might take up, and loaded with lumber, there was 
no danger of her sinking. If it was pump to Buenos Ayres, 
why, pump it should be! It would never do to put in 
with a leak on my first command. 

Getting a stiff gale with a high sea, ere we had been a 
week out, it was found that the barque made no more 
water in rough weather than in smooth water; that the 
leak was a steady one; that with hourly spells at the 
pumps she could easily be kept free. But pumping so 
frequently gave little time for much else besides making 
and taking in sail, and attending to ship generally. 
There was no grumbling, and all was pleasant on board. 

Favored with good winds, we struck the N. E. trades 
fresh, and bowled along, with all the canvas that could 
be piled on, for the equator. 

Before leaving, I had undertaken to keep a log for 
Lieutenant M. F. Maury, U. S. N., superintendent of 
wind and current charts for the government at Wash- 
ington, with notes and observations on tides, sea currents, 
clouds, storms and winds, with all the phenomena of the 
sea. This, with my own journal, and looking after the 
ship, occupied my time pretty well, and the days passed 
rapidly with no idle moments on my hands. A week in 
the doldrums, with squalls of wind and rain, with light 
airs, kept the watch on deck busy with the sails, when, 
taking the S. E. trades, we again crossed the equator. 

Sighting Fernando Norohna and Cape Frio, ten days 
later saw the " Little Lizzie " off the Rio de la Plata, 
where she encountered her first setback. The weather 
became very bad, gale succeeded gale for seven or eight 



CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE" 153 

days, blowing us offshore a long distance, at the end of 
which time the wind moderated, the weather cleared, 
and the barque coming up nearly to her course for Lobos 
Island, the sea gradually growing smooth, with a fine 
breeze blowing, two reefs were shaken out and to'gall'nt 
sails set, and the barque was soon bowling along from 
eight to nine knots, making good time towards Lobos, 
now distant about sixty miles. 

Although the weather was warm for the season, with 
bright sunshine, I did not like the looks or feeling of it. 
The barometer was very low, with a falling tendency, 
but aside from this there was no indication of bad weather, 
or any change after nine o'clock (two bells), except a 
steady fall of the glass; otherwise the night was so fine, 
and being anxious to take advantage of the favorable 
slant of wind, I was loth to shorten sail. 

It was perfectly clear, not a cloud to be seen in the 
heavens, the stars shining with a brilliancy seldom 
equalled, water smooth, but each time I looked at the 
barometer I would find it a little lower, and I felt that 
something out of the ordinary was coming, yet it seemed 
impossible not to have time to get sail off. 

At four bells, feeling tired, having been up a long time, 
I told Mr. Lovett, the mate, I would lie down on the 
lounge in the cabin, and if there was any indication of a 
change, or any increase of wind, to call me at once. Going 
below, I lay down, but not to sleep, being too anxious, 
as the barometer was now 28. 

About six bells (11 p. m.) I heard Mr. Lovett descending 
the steps. 

" Well! any change? " I inquired. 

" No sir/' he replied, " with the exception that the 
wind is a little stronger, I think." 

" All right, sir, I'll be up in a moment," I answered. 



154 OCEAN LIFE 

Mounting the steps, as my head came out of the com- 
panionway I detected a faint flash of lightning in the 
southwestern quarter. I gave the order to braid up the 
spanker, clew up the to'gallant sails, furling them, and 
to haul up the mainsail before they laid aloft at the main. 
Before the sail could be handed the wind increased rapidly. 
Telling the helmsman to put his wheel up and keep her 
dead before it, I also hailed the second officer to get on 
deck instantly, Mr. Lovett having gone aloft to assist 
the men. Running forward over the deck-load, letting 
go the topsail halliards on the way, I called to the watch 
to hurry on deck, not stopping to put on many clothes. 
By the time they made their appearance, the men with 
the mate were down from aloft. With all sail clewed up, 
and although running dead before the wind, over two 
hours of the hardest kind of work elapsed before every- 
thing was furled, and the barque hove to on the port 
tack under a mizzen staysail made of No. 1 cotton canvas, 
entirely new. By this time the wind was blowing with 
hurricane force; above a cloudless sky, but everything 
now snug, with the exception of the fore to'gallant sail 
that blew away ere it could be furled. The sea had risen, 
but the wind was too heavy to permit its rising very high. 
The barque lay almost on her beam-ends, the spars lying 
at such an angle the wind passed over, her masts not 
offering much resistance to its full force. Lying with 
her lee rail in the water, the men doing nothing, but 
holding on for their lives, eight hours passed, after which 
the wind began to abate in violence. From the time the 
wind struck us at eleven the night before, the barometer 
had risen rapidly, the lowest being 27.70, which had gone 
up by daylight to nearly 29, and was still rising. 

From this time the gale moderated very fast, and by 
10 a. m. sail was again made. By night the main to'gallant 




MONTEVIDEO BAY, SHOWING MOUNT, URUGUAY 




MOUTH OF RIVER CHACO, AND WAREHOUSES, BUENOS AYRES 

[See page 158 



CAPTAIN OF THE "LITTLE LIZZIE" 155 

sail was set, and a new fore one bent, and the wind 
favoring us, we were soon up with Lobos Island, passing 
which, we shortly sighted the Mount, coming to anchor 
outside the harbor of Montevideo. A boat from shore 
in the early morning came on board bringing fresh beef 
and vegetables, also a river pilot who had been signalled 
for, and we were soon under way for Buenos Ayres. 

The Rio de la Plata, from the junction of the Parana 
and Uruguay Rivers, is very wide, about thirty miles 
between Buenos Ayres and Colonia, and increasing in 
width as it approaches the ocean. It is a muddy, turbid 
stream, having at times of freshets a strong current. 
Anchorage for shipping at Buenos Ayres, unless the vessel 
is of light draught, is in the outer roads, about eight or nine 
miles from shore. Between the outer and inner roads 
lies a wide bank of shoal water, but vessels of from eleven 
to twelve feet draught can cross it to the inner roads about 
a mile from the landing mole. The water there is much 
smoother than in the outer roads, the bank breaking the 
sea, although in a winter southeaster, the Plata can get 
up a very respectable sea even in the inner roads. In 
the strong southeast gales of the winter season the waves 
run high, and a ship needs good ground-tackling, but 
the holding ground is good. It is sometimes a week at 
a time when no work of discharging cargo can be at- 
tempted, it being impossible for a lighter to lie alongside 
a ship; even communication with the shore would be 
cut off, although it must be pretty rough weather when 
the shore boats that supply the ships with fresh beef 
and vegetables, take the mails, and carry the captains 
.back and forth once a week or so, cannot go off. All the 
captains live on shore, boarding at some of the many 
boarding-houses. These are kept mostly by Americans 
or English. Mine was presided over by Mrs. Bradley, 



156 OCEAN LIFE 

formerly of Portsmouth, N. H., who with her three 
daughters conducted one of the best establishments in 
Buenos Ayres. It was patronized almost entirely by 
American shipmasters with their wives, if married and 
accompanied by them. 

Taking advantage of high water, the " Little Lizzie " 
crossed the bank, anchoring in the inner roads among a 
number of light-draught vessels like herself. This was much 
more convenient, as it was but a short distance from the 
landing mole, and communication with the shore could 
be had daily, or at any time that it was necessary. 

The water front of the city of Buenos Ayres was very 
different from the present day; then all discharging was 
done by lighters, but of late years docks have been 
built at Ensenada, below the city, to accommodate the 
shipping, or a portion of it. 

The population at that time was upwards of three 
hundred thousand, while to-day it numbers nearly a 
million. It is the capital of the Argentine Republic, 
and is the first city in size in South America. Its export 
trade is very large, besides having important manufactur- 
ing interests. 

Rosario, lying northwest of Buenos Ayres, on the 
Parana River, is second only in commercial importance, 
its population being today upwards of 125,000. Stock 
raising is its chief industry, — cattle, sheep, horses, 
etc., in vast herds. The pasturage afforded by the 
central plains is practically unlimited. The production 
of wool, also, is one of its greatest industries, and of this 
Buenos Ayres Province is the chief seat. 

Sailing up the Parana River, from Buenos Ayres to 
Rosario, from the deck of the vessel can be seen immense 
grassy plains, one great level as far as the eye can reach, 
covered with . seemingly countless numbers of horses and 



CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 157 

cattle, grazing. It formed a sight worth many miles of 
travel to see. 

The illustration shows La Boca del Rio Chaco circa de 
Barracas (the mouth of the River Chaco near the ware- 
house) at Buenos Ayres, 1856. The old established house 
of Samuel B. Hale being my consignees, as it was of almost 
all of the American ships in port, I made daily visits to 
the offices at the Barracas lying at the lower part of the 
city. Here the captains not only met each other, but 
joined the consignees and the employees of the firm in 
social intercourse. Here .they received their letters and 
newspapers, and if any one was not so fortunate as to 
receive any mail, he learned the home news from others. 
There was always a nice lunch set out, of which all who 
chose were invited to partake. Frequent invitations to 
dine were given to a few at a time, and these dinners 
were very sociable gatherings, enlivened by music and 
witty conversation, all serving to make the time pass 
most agreeably. 

Meanwhile the work of discharging our lumber pro- 
ceeded. On account of the shallowness of the water along 
the city front, the laden boats or lighters could not 
approach within a long distance of the Custom House 
mole, where all goods were landed, and everything had 
to be carried on shore from the lighters in high carts, 
drawn by horses. It was a queer sight to see the teams 
going out nearly a half-mile from shore, coming in loaded, 
and returning empty. In addition to the Custom House 
mole, there was the landing mole, where all boats from the 
shipping landed. It was, I should judge, about an eighth 
of a mile in length, making a fine promenade, always well 
filled with people in fine weather, but when there was a 
heavy sea on, landing from boats was a difficult and 
hazardous operation. All along the mole were davits 



158 OCEAN LIFE 

with boats hoisted, hanging ready for an emergency. 
Along the water front on each side of the mole was built 
a fine sea-wall, in front of which, extending a long way out 
into the river, were large lumps called " toseas," highly 
dangerous to a boat getting among them in a sea- 
way. 

Our cargo having been discharged, the barque was now 
put into fine condition as to appearance, painted outside 
and inside, spars scraped, and everything polished up 
until she shone like a fiddle, and as she lay with her royal 
yards across, she much resembled a yacht. It was my 
intention to sell her if possible, and the consignees were 
looking out sharp for a customer. In the meantime there 
was very little to do but enjoy myself. 

Horseback riding was the favorite amusement of the 
captains, among whom was my old friend Captain William 
Gregory of Marblehead, commanding the barque " Al- 
bers," and almost every afternoon we took long gallops 
into the country from ten to fifteen miles, sometimes 
much farther when we started earlier. This was not only 
most enjoyable and exhilarating sport, but very inex- 
pensive, horse-flesh being at a low figure. A good horse 
could be bought for five or ten dollars, and a superb 
animal for fifteen. Our stay in port on that voyage 
covering four months, I bought a fine animal the second 
month for fifteen dollars. I had him fed, and taken care 
of, and used him almost daily, and on leaving gave him 
away in payment for his " keep." 

One of our most enjoyable excursions was in company 
with six or eight genial fellows to the estancia of an old 
German, who kept a sort of tavern for travellers, or 
parties making him a call from the city for a good dinner, 
or a bottle of fine old Hock or Moselle, of which he had 
a large supply in his cool cellars. Leaving Buenos Ayres 



CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE ** 159 

at about two p. m., a brisk ride, or leisurely gallop of an 
hour or so, brought us to his place, when dismounting 
and having had the dust removed, we seated ourselves 
at tables in a most pleasant arbor with rich clusters of 
grapes hanging in luscious pendants from the vines 
overhead, our leafy covering protecting us from the sun's 
hot rays. 

Ordering a bottle or two of cool, sparkling Moselle, we 
would sit chatting for an hour, enjoying our wine and 
fragrant cigars, while our horses rested. The sun mean- 
while would be getting lower, and as it neared the horizon's 
edge abating much of its fervor that had made it oppres- 
sively warm at noontide. 

Again mounting our steeds, a brisk gallop would soon 
take us back to the city, to pass an entertaining evening 
at our boarding-house with music and the companionship 
of the ladies of our party. 

During my stay many pleasant acquaintances were 
formed, friendships that lasted for years. 

On my going to the office one day Mr. Hale informed 
me that he had a prospective customer for the barque 
at a price nearly double what the owner would have 
taken for her in Boston, and said he would be on board 
the following day to inspect her. Since her cargo had 
been discharged her bends and upper works had been 
caulked, previous to painting. Early the next morning 
I went on board, followed shortly by Mr. Hale with 
Captain Manuel, a Portuguese, who wished to buy, 
to command. I showed him over the " Little Lizzie," 
after which he partook, with Mr. Hale, of a nice little 
lunch in the cabin, with a few glasses of wine. Pleased 
with the barque and all on board, the next day the sale 
was consummated, Captain Manuel taking possession 
and command as soon as papers were made out and 



160 OCEAN LIFE 

signed. He altered her name to "La Chiquita Paulina " 
(Little Pauline), after his daughter. 

The officers and crew were paid off and berths for the 
former found on vessels homeward bound, while the crew 
shipped on various craft bound for the United States 
and elsewhere. A fortnight later I engaged passage on 
the barque " Swallow " of Salem, Captain Stephen Upton, 
bound for that port. I bade my consignees good-by, 
took leave of my genial landlady and her family, and 
with a hearty handshake from my fellow shipmasters, 
embarked with Captain Upton from the mole. A run of 
an hour and a half placed us alongside the " Swallow," 
lying in the outer roads. Anchor was at once weighed, 
and with a leading wind we took our departure from 
Buenos Ayres, landing our pilot at Montevideo the follow- 
ing morning. Passing Lobos Island, Maldonado, and 
Cape St. Mary, we were soon again on the south Atlantic, 
homeward bound. 

The " Swallow " was a very pretty barque of five 
hundred tons, quite sharp, with good sailing qualities, 
flush fore and aft, with the exception of a break in the 
deck abaft the mainmast, having a foot rise from that 
aft, all her cabin and forecastle accommodations being 
below deck. 

With fine weather and steady trades we were in the 
latitude of Pernambuco, when about four bells in the 
morning watch, we experienced a sharp earthquake shock. 

The following afternoon, while sitting by the com- 
panionway aft, reading, for which there was now plenty 
of leisure, Mr. Connor (Thomas Connor of Salem), the first 
officer, being busy with something about the wheel, 
we were both suddenly startled by the cry of " Fire," 
forward. 

Glancing towards the foVsle scuttle, I saw the watch 



CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 161 

below rushing on deck, followed by a cloud of smoke. 
In an instant I followed Mr. Connor, who bounded by 
me and, diving into the fo Vsle, called loudly to pass water 
down. Two men were ordered to draw water, and the 
others quickly passed down bucket after bucket, which 
Mr. Connor received and slashed around perfectly regard- 
less of Jack's bedding or belongings. In a few moments 
the fire was extinguished and the scare was over. Mr. 
Connor then used some very emphatic language in address- 
ing a few remarks to the watch that had been below. 

It turned out that the seams around the barque's 
bows on the insides of the bunks of the fo'c'sle were the 
home and abiding-place of innumerable bugs, which, 
especially in warm weather, were a source of great annoy- 
ance to Jack. He had tried various expedients to get 
rid of them, all of which were of no avail, they were so 
deep in the seams. That day a brilliant idea had struck 
one of the watch, and going to the paint locker without 
asking leave, he smuggled down about a quart of spirits 
of turpentine, then getting a piece of oakum, he pro- 
ceeded to saturate the seams with the spirits. He was 
anxious to see what effect it had, and it was too dark to 
see plainly, so he lit a match and held it close to the seam. 
The effect, if startling to the inhabitants, was much 
more so to Jack. In an instant the flames ran around 
the two tiers of bunks, scaring the watch so that, without 
attempting to extinguish it, which they might easily have 
done, they piled on deck, yelling " Fire! " 

It is, I think, safe to say they never tried that experi- 
ment again. 

After a fine run through the northeast trades, one 
pleasant morning found us in Boston Bay, between 
Thatcher's Island and Half-way Rock, with light airs 
fanning along, until we were but a short distance from 



162 OCEAN LIFE 

the entrance of Marblehead Harbor, when it fell away 
calm. Putting out a dory we had on deck, I pulled to a 
fishing-schooner just back of the Neck, bound to Boston 
for salt, got the news, and a morning paper, returned on 
board, and shortly after we were boarded by a Salem 
pilot. At noon we were fast alongside Derby Wharf, 
the voyage ended. 

Upon seeing Mr. Deshon, the following day, he expressed 
himself well pleased, adding he was sorry I had not 
arrived sooner, for he had had a new barque for me. She 
had sailed the week before, but as soon as he had a 
command I should have it. All of which, though very 
gratifying, would not warrant my remaining idle. 



CHAPTER XVI 

1858 - 1859 

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER. — BALLS, OPERAS, ETC. — THE 
FRENCH MARKET AT SUNRISE. — TO MARSEILLES. — 
THE SHIP " J. P. WHITNEY " 

I could see no opening for a command, and after a 
short stay on shore, I engaged with Captain John Dever- 
eaux of Marblehead, as first officer on the ship " Carnatic " 
for a voyage to New Orleans. He stated to me, at the 
time, that if he could get a stave freight for Bordeaux, 
he would place me in command at New Orleans, and 
take a run up around Tennessee with his wife and see 
his son, whom he had not seen for a long while. This I 
considered a good opportunity, and shipping Mr. Horace 
Broughton, also of Marblehead, as second officer, with 
Mr. John Bartol, a nephew of Captain Devereaux, as third, 
we left Boston in ballast for New Orleans. Making a 
quick run to the south end of Abaco, one of the Bahama 
group, the " Carnatic " rounded the " Hole in the Wall " 
and entered upon and crossed the Great Bahama Bank 
as described in a previous chapter. There is a uniform 
depth in the fairway of from fourteen to sixteen feet 
of water, with a bottom of white sand as level as a floor, 
while the ship being in ballast and of light draught, 
could easily cross, thus making a great saving in distance. 
The Bahama group comprises twenty inhabited, and 

163 



164 OCEAN LIFE 

many uninhabited islands, the Great Bank being fringed 
with small islands and keys. Running off the edge of 
the Bank, and sighting " Dead Man's Keys " and the 
Cuban shore, we speedily entered the Gulf of Mexico, 
the course being shaped for the Southwest Pass of the 
Mississippi River, and on arrival off the Pass, Captain 
Devereaux engaged a tugboat to tow the ship to New 
Orleans. 

Towing from the gulf to the city is very interesting. 
In the first part, after leaving the bar, the banks are low 
and swampy, fringed with reeds and bushes, large portions 
of which at a high stage of water are often partially sub- 
merged. These are the homes of the mosquito, gallinipper 
and " green-head/' a large fly that will bite a piece out 
of an animal very quickly. 

About sunset, in the summer months, when the tow 
is gliding along the banks, the mosquitoes come off in 
swarms, almost darkening the air, but farther along, the 
land is higher and more uniform, houses and cabins come 
into view, and still farther on plantations with their 
blooming cotton fields, stretch far away, white as snow, 
ripe for the picking by the darkies in the fields, and near, 
the shining black " mammies " with their " pickaninnies " 
are mustered up to see the tow pass by, shouting and 
waving their colored bandannas. This was in the old 
slavery days, before the emancipation of the blacks, 
and a tow on the Mississippi from the bar to the " Queen 
City of the South " was quite an event. On our arrival 
at New Orleans the towboat placed the " Carnatic " 
alongside the levee, lying outside the ship " Ocean Pearl." 

During our stay the captain and Mrs. Devereaux 
lived on shore, the captain coming on board daily. Not 
being able to procure the freight he wished, he gave up 
the idea of going to see his son, and chartering the ship 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 165 

to load tobacco and staves for Marseilles, France, told me 
he would like to have me continue the voyage, which 
offer I accepted. 

Captain Devereaux was the most genial of men, a good 
shipmaster of the old school, and a most agreeable man 
to sail with. Our relations at all times were very pleasant. 

Mr. Hooper, our passenger, remained in New Orleans 
for a fortnight and then took his departure for Boston 
by rail, having during his stay visited the ship almost 
daily with Captain Devereaux. 

At this season New Orleans was very gay; theatres, 
operas, balls, and drives on the shell road to Lake Pont- 
chartrain were in full swing. 

A visit to the French market in the early morning was 
a rare treat to any one not familiar with the habits, man- 
ners, and customs of the Creoles and elite society of 
New Orleans in that day. 

Here one could sit at any of the numerous coffee stands, 
and while sipping his cup of the most delicious coffee or 
cocoa, with delicate coffee cakes and cream, — or, if 
his tastes inclined that way, a tiny shell glass of the 
finest old cognac to take in his coffee, — watch the 
passing throng, of every shade of color, clad in garments 
varying from all the variegated hues of the rainbow to a 
spotless white, all smiling and joyous, engaged in ani- 
mated conversation fraught with jest and repartee 
thrown from one to another, in a breezy, light-hearted 
manner, only to listen to which was most exhilarating. 
This was a favorite stroll of ours at this hour during our 
stay in port. 

As soon as the ship was loaded, she dropped out of the 
tier and down to the lower levee, making up a tow of 
four vessels for the bar the following night. 

The last of the stores having been taken on board, 



166 OCEAN LIFE 

with water, about 7 p. m. the crew made their appearance, 
all sober, for a wonder, and at 8 o'clock the fasts were 
cast off, and the " Carnatic " swung into the stream, being 
headed down river for the bar, where we arrived the 
next morning, and crossing at once, sail was made, and 
with a light northerly wind, we proceeded down the 
gulf. 

Rounding the Tortugas, we passed Key West and the 
Florida Keys, with a leading breeze, and aided by the 
strong current of the Gulf Stream, which here runs with 
its greatest force, rapidly passed Florida, with Abaco on 
our starboard beam. Once to the north'ard of Abaco, 
the wind, hauling to the sou'west fresh, gave us a fine 
run for a week, and meeting with little easterly weather, 
the ship's passage was a good one to Cape St. Vincent, 
where a strong easterly gale was encountered, bringing 
the " Carnatic " down to close reefs. Running down under 
Cape Spartel, we lay off and on, for two days, when, the 
gale moderating, we stood over towards the Spanish shore, 
and the wind falling light, morning found us at the 
entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar, Spartel bearing about 
south half east. 

A Spanish fishing-boat coming alongside, a lot of fresh 
sardines were purchased, which made a great addition 
to our table fare. They are a most delicate pan-fish, 
sweet and delicious. 

Fanning along with light westerly winds, about 1 a. m. 
(two bells), we made Tarifa Light on the port bow, 
and as I knew Tarifa to be a revolving light, and this 
was a fixed one, I was puzzled. The night was dark 
but clear, and after satisfying myself that it was a light 
on shore, and no other than Tarifa, I went below, and 
calling Captain Devereaux, told him Tarifa Light was a 
little forward of the port beam. 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 167 

Coming on deck, he took a good look at it, and for 
the first time our opinions clashed. 

" That's not Tarifa, Mr. Whidden," said he. 

" I think so, captain," I answered. 

" But I tell you it is not. Tarifa is a revolving light, 
and that is steady." 

" That may be so," said I; " it's a fixed light, sure, but 
it's Tarifa." 

Looking through my glass, which was a good one, at 
the light, which by this time had got well abeam, I could 
make out the dim form of the lighthouse below it. 

With a long look through his spy-glass Captain Dever- 
eaux exclaimed: 

" A steamer's light; I can see her smoke-stack," to 
which I made no reply, and Captain Devereaux went 
below. 

I remained on deck until daylight, when Tarifa showed 
plain in sight abaft our beam, with the mountains of the 
African shore looming up grandly in the morning light, 
and looking aft from forward, I saw Captain Devereaux 
come on deck, take a look at the lighthouse, and go 
below at once, where he remained until nearly seven 
bells. 

Passing Gibraltar, w« again encountered a strong 
easterly wind, making it a hard dead beat to Cape de Gata, 
but rounding the cape the wind became more favorable 
and we made Planier Light but a short distance south 
of our port, and taking a pilot, the " Carnatic " entered 
the basin of the docks at Marseilles, a very old city, 
located in the southeastern part of France, but a short 
distance from the Italian border. It has a population 
of nearly half a million, and is the principal seaport of 
France, and of the Mediterranean. The harbor is com- 
posed of two big basins or docks, the old and the new. 



168 OCEAN LIFE 

Entering the old basin, we hauled alongside the pier and 
commenced the following day the discharge of our tobacco 
and staves. 

The second day after docking, Captain Devereaux 
came on board in the afternoon, and after talking with me 
in a general way, " By the way," said he, " I see that 
Tarifa Light is undergoing repairs, and, for the time, the 
revolving light has been changed to a fixed light. That 
was something I did not know, when we passed it. Mr. 
Whidden, go to your tailor's and get a suit of clothes, 
and tell him to send me the bill. Don't you get a Prince 
Albert suit." 

I laughed and thanked him, and gave my order for a 
nice suit, and Captain Devereaux paid the bill. This 
was characteristic of Captain John, — blunt, stubborn, 
he always hated to acknowledge he was wrong, but once 
convinced, he was ready to rectify an error, and generous 
to a fault. 

Fruits of all kinds were abundant, and as it was the 
season for them, we literally feasted, while in port, on 
the largest and most delicious grapes. 

The barque " Azof," off the port of Marseilles as 
shown in the accompanying illustration, was an Eastern 
built vessel of 295 tons register, and a fair type of the 
smaller class of freighters of our merchant marine of 
sixty years ago. She hailed from New York previous 
to being purchased by Messrs Isaac Jeanes & Co. and 
Messrs Chamberlain, Phelps & Co., large ship-owners of 
Philadelphia. 

She was commanded by Captain William Chipman, 
a native of Barnstable, Mass., who in 1859 commanded 
the fine ship " Isaac Jeanes." She was principally engaged 
in the Mediterranean trade, plying between the various 
ports in the Sea and Philadelphia, New York, and New 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 169 

Orleans. Her eighth voyage was made from Philadelphia 
to New Orleans with coal; thence to Cronstadt, Russia, 
with cotton; from there to Plymouth, Eng., with general 
cargo, where she was wrecked in October, 1859. 

The cargo having been discharged, and the ship bal- 
lasted, we cleared for New Orleans, taking as passengers 
the former American consul who had been stationed at 
Nice, with his wife, son and daughter. 

A few days later the " Carnatic " sailed from Mar- 
seilles, passing Gibraltar and the straits with a strong 
levanter (a strong east wind prevalent in the Mediter- 
ranean Sea), and in due course entered the trade belt, 
and from now on fine, steady winds, with bright, beautiful 
weather, accompanied the ship all the way to the Wind- 
ward Islands. Past Guadeloupe, and through the Carib- 
bean Sea, we held our way, passing south of Jamaica, 
getting a fine view of the Blue Mountains, thence along 
the Cuban shore and past the Isle of Pines with its rich, 
tropical growth of trees and foliage, rounded Cape San 
Antonio, the west end of the island of Cuba, and with 
course shaped for the Southwest Pass, a few days later 
we dropped our anchor outside the bar of the Mis- 
sissippi River. Taking a pilot and towboat, we were 
just in time to complete a tow, and at once were off for 
New Orleans. 

On arrival at New Orleans the " Carnatic " loaded 
cotton for Boston, also taking on board ten barrels of 
" Old Rye " whiskey, which were stowed directly un- 
der the after hatch. We had good weather and favor- 
able winds until past the latitude of Bermuda, when the 
ship encountered a hard gale from the northwest, obliging 
her to lie to, for eight or nine hours, but no damage was 
sustained, for the " Carnatic " as a sea-boat was a gem. 
With a favorable slant, good time was made to the South 



170 OCEAN LIFE 

Channel, when the wind, falling light, finally died away 
to a flat calm, then breezing up from north northeast, 
it rapidly increased in force until at midnight the ship 
was under close reefs clawing off Nauset, the wind blowing 
a hard gale with snow and sleet. It was a wild night 
and all hands suffered much with the cold. About six 
bells (mid- watch) the wind suddenly veered into nor' west, 
and although blowing heavily, the weather cleared, 
while the air became intensely cold, ice making fast, 
and the rigging becoming stiff very rapidly. 

Captain Devereaux had left orders to call him if any 
change occurred, and this was now done. Daylight had 
just broken, when from for'ard, where I was busy with 
the men, I saw the captain emerge from the cabin door, 
and running up to wind'ard, take a look for some two or 
three minutes. Returning, he called out, " Mr. Whidden! 
Mr. Whidden! " 

" Yes, sir," was my response, going aft. 

" Where did you stow that whiskey you took on at 
New Orleans? " 

" In the after hatch, sir," said I. 

" Do you think you could get out a barrel? " 

" Certainly, sir." And calling the watch aft, in less than 
fifteen minutes a cask was up and secured in the cabin 
gangway. Tapping, and drawing off a small demijohn, 
Captain Devereaux ordered that the men have a drink 
each watch while the extreme cold lasted, then dis- 
appeared below. 

Two drinks, however, were sufficient, as after the first 
the weather moderated wonderfully. 

Having passed Highland Light, we took a pilot on 
board, and arrived in Boston the following morning, 
and the cargo of cotton having been discharged, I bade 
good-by to Captain and Mrs. Devereaux, leaving the 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 171 

old " Carnatic " with regret, and having received instruc- 
tions from New Orleans to proceed overland to that port 
and take command of the ship " J. P. Whitney," 1,200 
tons burthen, I left at once for New York, and there 
purchasing tickets for New Orleans via Savannah, Mont- 
gomery and Mobile, I embarked on the steamer " Ala- 
bama/' Captain Schenk, for Savannah. 

A fine run down the coast brought the " Alabama " 
to her pier at midnight, and engaging a carriage, I drove 
across the city to the railroad station. The moon, being 
at its full, made objects almost as light as day, and the 
drive enabled me to get a fair idea of the city, from which 
I took my departure by the train which left at 3.30 a. m. 
The trip across country was very interesting, the stops 
for meals at the various stations serving to make an 
agreeable break. On my arrival at Montgomery, I learned 
at the hotel, that the " St. Nicholas," one of the big 
river steamers, would leave for Mobile the following day 
at noon, and having engaged my stateroom, I took the 
opportunity of looking over the city, which is the capital 
of the State of Alabama, situated on the banks of the 
Alabama River, having a population, to-day, of over 
30,000. It was then, as now, an important shipping 
point for cotton. The banks are high along the river 
front, but at this time there was a very high stage of 
water. The streets of the city, which covered a large 
area, were very wide, bordered with spreading shade 
trees having the most beautiful foliage. Shrubs and 
flowers were in full bloom and in the greatest profusion, 
distilling their grateful fragrance upon the soft and 
balmy air. Leaving at noon, the boat took her course 
down the river, midstream, for Mobile. 

The " St. Nicholas " was one of the old-time Southern 
river boats, of light draught, with a spacious saloon and 



172 OCEAN LIFE 

a bar. The management furnished good accommodations 
and set a fine table. The captain and other officers were 
courteous and obliging, sparing no pains in looking after 
the comfort of their passengers. 

Approaching Mobile, we found the river banks over- 
flowed, making the surrounding country look like an 
inland sea. All this sort of sailing was something quite 
new to me, and the trip from Montgomery to Mobile 
was most enjoyable. At its close, I took the boat for 
New Orleans, via Lake Pontchartrain, where we arrived 
the next morning, and boarding the steam-train I was 
landed at the railroad station in New Orleans about 

11 A. M. 

I found the ship had been chartered to load tobacco 
for Marseilles. The first and second mates, Mr. Henry 
P. Connor and Mr. Saunders, were on board, and on 
recommendation of Captain Gray, the former captain, 
their services were retained, and the selection was for- 
tunate, as they proved most competent and efficient 
officers. (Mr. Connor at this time of writing has been 
retired from the service of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company for ten years. He had commanded the finest 
ships for a long term of years, his last command being 
the steamship " New York," which he took from New 
York to San Francisco when the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company retired from the Atlantic trade to the Pacific.) 

Our lading completed, the gangs of cotton-sere wers, 
who had been employed on board, wishing to get out of 
the city for the summer months, made application for 
the crew's positions. They were a fine set of men, and 
all being good sailors, they were given a note to the 
shipping-master, and by him were duly enrolled on the 
ship's articles. 

For a better crew I could never wish. Only one fracas 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 173 

occurred during the voyage, and that was occasioned by 
the action of the steward, a little fellow, but a capital 
man for his position. His only failing was a tendency 
to be arrogant and overbearing towards the forward 
hands, when he came in contact with them. 

While serving dinner one day in the cabin, a sailor 
brought the bread-barge aft for him to fill. It should 
have been brought at night or in the morning, when he 
was not busy, so he kept the man waiting until he got 
ready, then filled the barge, and as he gave it to him, told 
him not to come again at that hour, using some abusive 
language. This Jack resented, and told him if he would 
come out from the cabin he would polish him off. In a 
moment there was a mix-up on the quarter-deck in front 
of the cabin door. Mr. Connor, the mate, was in his 
room, heard the row, and stepped out. When he saw 
the steward on the deck with the man on top, pounding 
him, he promptly knocked Jack over, and then ordered 
the steward to the cabin, and the man forward. This 
would have ended it, but the steward, after Mr. Connor 
had gone back to his room, foolishly went forward and 
the altercation was renewed. 

The steward, being in the enemy's camp, was now 
having a bad time of it. The second mate was at dinner, 
and Mr. Connor, again hearing the noise, went forward 
on the lee side, where, taking in the situation, he started 
to interfere, but this was resented by the crew and all 
hands pitched into him! He knocked down two men, 
but finding the odds against him rather heavy, he seized 
a handspike, and having backed against the house, was 
doing good work, while with heavers, belaying-pins, and 
fists the crew sought to reach him. Knowing nothing of 
all this, I came from the cabin to take a smoke, when I 
was accosted by the steward, who had deserted Mr. Con- 



174 OCEAN LIFE 

nor and came aft. " Mr. Connor is having trouble 
forward, sir/' he said. I walked past the house on the 
lee side, and the scene for a moment was startling. Five 
or six men were stretched out, bleeding freely, and Mr. 
Connor, bloody and thoroughly aroused, was standing 
off a half-dozen who were trying to get in a blow, the 
rest having retreated to the foVsle. Perceiving that 
it was no time to ask questions, I grasped a heaver, and 
the men, seeing the captain and second officer, who at 
that moment came round the house from the wind'ard 
side, retreated to the foVsle, followed by the officers. 
Bringing the heaver across the arm of one in the act of 
drawing a knife, I caused him to drop it; a stampede 
was made from the foVsle to the deck, and the excite- 
ment was over. 

The mate's head, which was badly cut, was bandaged, 
and all hands were ordered aft, while the two ringleaders 
were placed in irons, below, in the half-deck, and kept 
on bread and water for forty-eight hours. 

The riot act was read to the others, who were then sent 
forward, after which the steward was called into the 
after cabin and received the " talking to " of his life, 
with the assurance that he richly deserved the thrash- 
ing which he would get, if the like happened again. 
On the promise of better behavior, the two men were 
taken out of irons the second day and everything settled 
down to its usual routine. 

Off Cadiz the ship encountered a strong levanter, 
and ran down under the lee of Cape Spartel. Here, 
fully protected from the violence of the wind, she backed 
and filled around, in company with a dozen sail of other 
craft, who had also sought shelter under the cape. On 
the second day, standing out towards Spartel, and seeing 
an English man-of-war wear ship and head to the north- 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 175 

'ard, the " Whitney " was put under close-reefed topsails, 
whole foresail, and lower staysails, and heading from 
the cape to the Spanish shore, running well in, tacked 
ship in smooth water. Again standing over for Spartel, 
we found we had gained a little. It was a hard beat, 
but midnight found us off Tarifa, from then until daylight 
barely holding our own. Day broke with dense masses 
of vapor, or fog, shutting off the view of land on either 
side of the straits, the wind still blowing heavily. By 
10 a. m. the fog lifted, when, the mainsail being given her, 
she began to gain, and by four in the afternoon passed 
Gibraltar, from Spartel to Europa Point, the southern 
point of the Rock, taking thirty hours, but we had the 
satisfaction of arriving at our port seven days in advance 
of those left under the lee of the cape. Half-way between 
Gibraltar and Cape de Gata a favorable slant of wind was 
taken, carrying us to Marseilles, making the passage 
fifty-four days from New Orleans. 

Docking in the new basin, and obtaining pratique 
(passing the board of health), we were at once besieged 
by every class of tradespeople and artisans who had any- 
thing to do with shipping to solicit the ship's patronage. 
The first day we had consignees, stevedores, and trades- 
people selected, and commenced discharging the second. 

A large number of American ships being in port, many 
captains having their wives with them, there was no lack 
of company, while drives and sightseeing made the time 
pass very pleasantly, and one could hardly realize it, 
when the time for our departure had arrived. 

While lying in the basin, a most amusing incident 
occurred, more amusing to the onlookers than to myself. 
It was Sunday morning and I had made an engagement 
to drive out with several ladies and gentlemen and to 
dine with them afterwards. Having dressed with unusual 



176 OCEAN LIFE 

care, a short time before starting I remembered some- 
thing I had on board that I wished for, and taking a 
carriage and driving to the dock, I obtained a shore boat 
and started for the ship, that lay moored to the buoy 
with chains from her stern to the pier. The cargo being 
out brought her high out of water, while a French ship 
had hauled alongside, shutting our gangway off, and the 
only way of reaching it was by crossing over her decks. 
She was deep in the water, while the " Whitney " towered 
above her. She had just been painted, and a ladder 
was hanging over the bows to accommodate any one 
wishing to get on board, an awkward place to climb 
up, but the only way to reach my gangway. Mounting 
the ladder carefully, to avoid the paint, and starting aft, 
I had reached the main hatch, when, with a tremendous 
howl, a dog that looked very large and fierce came bound- 
ing towards me. He looked wicked, and not a soul in 
sight. Putting my dignity in my pocket, and making 
a spring to the main rigging, I never stopped until I was 
half-way to the top; then looking down, I saw a small 
boy who had come out of the cabin administer a cuffing 
to the dog, that I now perceived was securely muzzled. 
To make it worse, the rigging had been freshly tarred, 
besmearing me from head to foot. As I descended the 
rigging I could see my men lying around the to'gallant 
foVsle chuckling, and all on the broad grin at the " old 
man's " dilemma. This, of course, I pretended not to see, 
and went to my cabin, where a complete change was 
necessary. 

No suitable freight offering, the "J. P. Whitney" 
took her departure for Trapani, Sicily, to purchase a 
cargo of salt on the ship's account for New Orleans. 

Trapani, a very pretty city, nestles down at the foot 
of Mt. Julian. On this mountain the ancient city of that 



NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 177 

name, founded by the Saracens about 300 a. d., was built. 
I visited the ruins, which are very interesting, several 
times during my stay. Only one other American ship, 
the " Isaac Jeanes," Captain William Chipman, was 
in port. She was lying close in at the landing. 

The ship " Isaac Jeanes," a photograph of the model 
of which accompanies this sketch, was built of white 
oak in the city of Philadelphia, by William Cramp: 
dimensions, 160 feet long, 33 feet beam, 21 feet 6 inches 
hold, 843 tons register, 1,150 tons dead weight. The 
Philadelphia Public Ledger of April 1, 1854, thus records 
the event of the launch of this fine ship as having taken 
place on the day previous, which happened to be on 
Friday: 

" Thursday was originally fixed for the launch, but the 
tide not being sufficiently full, a postponement until 
Friday was determined on, notwithstanding the general 
hostility to that day. She glided off in the most beautiful 
style, and her advent could not have been more propitious 
had it occurred on the most lucky day of the week. The 
new ship is a fine specimen of naval architecture, and is 
destined for the Mediterranean trade, under the command 
of Captain Chipman. Messrs. Jeanes & Co. have also a 
ship C Wm. Chamberlain ') of 900 tons on the stocks 
at the same yard, which is to be commanded by Captain 
Isaac Jennings. The contract for a third ship (' Bridge- 
water/ Captain E. W. Barstow), of between 1,600 and 
1,700 tons, for the same firm, has been taken by Mr. 
Cramp." 

The " Isaac Jeanes " made nine voyages before her 
sale in New York in July, 1862, when she was altered 
into a barque, and finally went ashore inside South Head 



178 OCEAN LIFE 

below San Francisco, where she went to pieces March 
9, 1876. 

Her fourth voyage, from Philadelphia to San Fran- 
cisco, was made in 108 days. She was considered a smart 
and handsome ship. 

It was on her seventh voyage — New York to Balti- 
more, in ballast, from Baltimore to Marseilles, from there 
to Trapani, from thence to New Orleans — that she 
made one of the two American ships, the other being 
the " J. P. Whitney," that were lying here at Trapani. 



CHAPTER XVII 

1859 - 1860 

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY. — RETURN VOYAGE TO 

NEW ORLEANS. TREMENDOUS ROLLS AND AN ANIMATED 

OMELETTE. — A .WEDDING PARTY ON SHIPBOARD 

The ship's hold was made ready for the cargo of salt 
purchased through the agency of Senor Luigi, who also 
acted in the capacity of salt agent for Captain Chipman. 
I went on board the " Isaac Jeanes " and made the 
acquaintance of the captain and his estimable wife, a 
most charming lady, quiet and reserved, yet bright and 
vivacious with her friends, bubbling over with good 
humor and a fine conversationalist. Captain Chipman 
was a gentleman of rare ability, and one whom I was more 
than pleased later to number among my friends. 

In a few days there came another arrival, the ship 
" Edward Hymen," Captain Neal, belonging to the same 
owners as the " J. P. Whitney." Mrs. Neal, the captain's 
wife, being with him, a pleasant little party was made up 
for sightseeing. Together we visited the churches, 
monasteries, nunneries, and all places of interest in the 
city. Taking delightful drives into the country, we 
inspected the vineyards, now laden with great, rich 
clusters of delicious grapes, of which we could pick and 
eat, all as free as air. 

One of these excursions was to the ancient ruins of 

179 



180 OCEAN LIFE 

Trapani on Mt. Julian. We noted a portion of a wall of 
an old church or temple that was almost covered with 
Saracen heads. The coloring looked as fresh as though 
recently put on, yet many hundred years had passed 
since the artist had finished his work. He had gone to 
dust ages ago, yet his work remained, and the process 
that preserved the coloring in such a state of perfection 
has become one of the lost arts. The Baths of Venus 
were also very interesting. 

While our dinner was being prepared at a Sicilian cafe, 
we sat in a room on the second floor with the wide open 
windows that extended to the floor admitting the soft 
balmy breezes, while directly opposite were the windows 
and gray walls of a richly endowed convent, which were 
built out beyond the walls with arched gratings, so that 
the nuns, or sisters, could sit in them, veiled, and take 
the air. Shortly two appeared, heavily veiled, and seating 
themselves, seemed to be conversing together. We, 
especially the ladies, watched them with great interest, 
and their conversation, by their animated gestures, seemed 
to be of anything but a very solemn nature. The ladies 
said they were laughing heartily, perhaps at us, for Captain 
Neal was doing his best to attract their attention, but 
they gave no sign of seeing us. Changing her position, one 
slightly disarranged her veil, showing just a glimpse of 
a sweet face, young and beautiful, not over two or 
three and twenty, the ladies said. In a few moments 
more, both vanished from our sight within the convent 
walls. 

When dinner was ready all Sicilian dishes were served. 
The menu was composed of spaghetti, stews, macaroni, 
tomatoes and peppers, chicken fricasseed with tomatoes, 
sweets, light wines with fruit, black coffee and bread. 

All thoroughly enjoyed the spread, after which the 



TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 181 

gentlemen lit their cigars, and while smoking admired 
the view. From where we sat, the bright blue waters of 
the Mediterranean were spread before us dotted with 
beautiful islands. A few miles away lay Marsala, with 
its gUttering mounds of snow-white salt, appearing like 
a small piece of the frozen north drifted into summer 
seas. Taking carriages, we commenced our descent, 
and part way down we stopped at a monastery of Gray 
Friars, receiving a cordial welcome, with permission to 
look over the buildings. Everything wore a sombre hue, 
nothing to soften or light up the stern, austere aspect 
of the rooms or cells. In one large room were the skeletons 
of friars who had passed away, piled up in tiers, each 
one tagged, stating who he was, when he died, and per- 
haps a few remarks on his life-work. Some were in open 
caskets, while in the centre and at the ends of the room 
were piled artistically great mounds of skulls, thigh 
bones, and other portions of the human anatomy, present- 
ing a most lugubrious appearance. 

The friars themselves were garbed in the plainest and 
most severe style. A coarse robe and cowl, and a hair- 
rope girdle tied around their waists, with the ends hanging 
down in front, completed their costume. 

We thanked the brethren for their courtesy, and con- 
tributing a small sum for the benefit of the Order, we 
took our carriage and commenced the descent, which 
having been accomplished, we drove to Luigi's office. As 
we were in the act of alighting a bell struck, and instantly 
all business stopped. Pedestrians, carriage drivers, each 
and every one dropped on their knees, crossing themselves, 
repeating their prayers and Ave Marias in the most solemn 
and devout manner. This continued for a few moments, 
when all arose, and business went on as if there had 
been no interruption. 



182 OCEAN LIFE 

The thirty thousand inhabitants of Trapani included 
ten thousand priests. 

A few days after the visit to old Trapani, Mr. Luigi, 
our salt agent, asked me if I had ever seen the act of taking 
the black veil, adding that the daughter of a family with 
whom he was intimate was about to do so, and giving 
me a cordial invitation to attend the church with him 
and witness the ceremony, which offer was quickly ac- 
cepted, with thanks. 

On the appointed day we were early on hand at the 
church, which was well filled with the friends of the 
family. Shortly, a procession of maidens, with the young 
lady at their head, profusely decorated with flowers, all 
being dressed in white, wended their way up the hill and 
entered the church doors. All knelt, while the service 
went on, and she took upon herself the holy vows. Adjoin- 
ing the body of the church, which was of vast dimensions, 
was the convent or nunnery, with grated windows, or 
rather openings, through which the sisterhood could see 
and hear all that was going on, without being themselves 
seen. 

At the conclusion of this part of the service a priest 
appeared, and let down her luxuriant hair, which fell in 
waves about her shoulders, rippling down to the floor. 
With a pair of shears, he severed it close to her head, 
and taking it in her hands, she went around among her 
weeping relatives and friends, and giving each a tress 
with a few words of cheer and comfort, she smilingly 
returned to the priest, when the black veil was thrown 
over her head, and taking her hand, he led her back of 
the altar, both vanishing from sight. 

Then arose a strain of music mingled with the voices 
of the nuns from the grated openings, low and soft, 
gradually swelling in volume, yet thrillingly sweet and 



TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 183 

clear. Higher and higher it mounted, until in one grand 
burst of melody it rang among the fretted arches of the 
roof, seeming to fill that old sanctuary with one paean of 
triumph at the rescue of a soul from sin, and a fitting 
welcome into the portals of Paradise. It was to me 
one of the most impressive sights, and still lingers in my 
memory. The young lady herself was very beautiful. 
I was told by my agent that the young girls are all 
educated in the convents, during which time they wear 
the white veil. After receiving their education, and 
mingling with the world, their great aim is to form a 
suitable matrimonial alliance. They will not marry below 
their station, and as the wealthy, eligible young ladies 
far outnumber the young men who are up to their stand- 
ard, and as it is a disgrace to remain single after a certain 
age, if they receive no suitable offer by the time they are 
three or four and twenty, they will generally renounce 
the world, enter the convent, and taking the black veil, 
spend the remainder of their lives within its walls, devoting 
their service and wealth to the church. 

In Trapani, chickens, fowls and eggs cost but very 
little, so little that besides live stock three beef barrels 
were filled with eggs and laid down in salt for the home- 
ward voyage. Two of the barrels were placed against 
the bulkhead of the inner or ladies' cabin, and by running 
a plank from the mizzenmast to the side of the cabin 
they were deemed perfectly secure against any mishap 
on account of the weather. 

Our salt in, and Luigi the agent settled with, our 
anchor was weighed and sail made, and with a fine 
easterly breeze we said good-by to Trapani, having 
passed a most pleasant three weeks in its waters. 

We had a quick run to Gibraltar and through the 
straits, where, some ninety or a hundred miles west of 



184 OCEAN LIFE 

Cape Spartel, we encountered a hard gale from west north- 
west that blew with great violence, the ship being hove 
to under a close-reefed main topsail, and foretopmast 
staysail for twelve hours, with a high sea running, the 
ship making good weather, except when she would fall 
off in the trough of the sea, causing her to roll heavily. 

Breakfast had been announced by the steward, and I 
was seated in an armchair at the head of the table, with 
Mr. Connor, the first officer, on a settee at my right. The 
steward was having his hands full keeping the dishes on 
the table, for they evinced an unaccountable desire to 
jump over the storm-racks. The forward dining-cabin 
had an oilcloth carpet, which when wet was very slippery. 
The table, settees, and chairs, of course, were secured. 

Coffee had been served, and we were in the act of lifting 
our first cup, when the ship gave several tremendous 
rolls. We were holding on to the table, when suddenly 
the lashings gave way, or rather the staples drew out of 
the deck, and over went the table, with all the breakfast 
and dishes, and before we could rise from our seats, the 
two barrels of eggs broke adrift, and in less time than 
it takes to tell it, every egg was smashed, and a sea of 
yolks and whites of eggs, mingled with the debris of the 
breakfast, was sweeping across the oilcloth with every 
roll of the ship. 

Both mate and steward had gone down in the mass, 
and it was simply impossible to recover their footing, 
while with every lurch they would be swept from side 
to side, threatening to stave in the panels of the stateroom 
doors with their heads. My chair fortunately did not 
turn over, but with me in it, with feet drawn up, was 
dashed from side to side, until I grasped a door-knob, 
holding on for dear life, at the same time calling for the 
second mate. The scene in the cabin was indescribable. 




CAPTAIN WILLIAM C CHIPMAN 



TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 185 

A snap-shot taken at the psychological moment would 
have been a bonanza to a photographer. 

The second officer, in response to my summons, ap- 
peared at the cabin door, and taking in the situation, 
called in three or four of the watch. Life-lines were 
thrown in, and Mr. Connor, the steward and myself, 
were dragged out of our ridiculous, as well as most 
uncomfortable position. A few buckets of water made 
both the mate and steward look a little less like animated 
omelettes. 

The work of cleaning up the mess with buckets, swabs, 
and brooms took about all the forenoon, but beyond the 
loss of the eggs, and the bruises and " barkings " of legs 
and arms, no damage was done. 

The gale moderating and the wind hauling northerly, 
sail was again made, and a week later saw us within the 
region of the trade belt, with all the canvas that could 
be piled on, making good headway towards our destina- 
tion. Delightful weather and favoring winds made the 
passage to the Windward Islands a very pleasant one, 
and carrying the same steady winds through the Caribbean 
Sea and Gulf of Mexico, the " J. P. Whitney " arrived 
off the Southwest Pass forty-five days from Trapani, 
and taking a towboat, in due course made fast at the 
levee in New Orleans and commenced the discharge of 
our salt. 

During my absence, Mrs. Whiting, who was an owner 
of three-eighths of the ship, sold her interest to Captain 
George T. Avery to take command, which he now did, 
and I turned the ship over to him, receiving orders to 
wait for another ship, then on her way from Liverpool 
to New Orleans, in the meantime settling down on shore 
to await the " R. B. Sumner's " arrival. 

The photograph of the " J. P. Whitney " incorporated 



186 OCEAN LITE 

in this work is from a painting made at Malta in 1864. 
She was built at Castine, Maine. She was dismasted off 
the mouth of the Hoogly River to avoid being driven 
ashore, and afterwards refitted at Calcutta, sailed for 
Mauritius, and foundered with nearly all on board during 
a typhoon in the Indian Ocean. 

Captain George T. Avery, to whom I turned over the 
command of the "J. P. Whitney " at New Orleans, was 
born at Castine, Maine, Feb. 9, 1825, and died at Newbury- 
port, Mass., Sept. 20, 1884. He followed the sea as a 
calling for over forty years, commanding during that 
time many of the finest ships of our merchant marine in 
the days of the old sailing ships; among them the " Daniel 
I. Tenney," the " Importer," and the " J. P. Whitney." 
He was a typical New England representative of our 
old-time shipmasters. Honest, fearless in the discharge 
of his duty, self-reliant, he won the esteem and respect, 
not only of his employers, but of all with whom he came 
in contact. Genial and courteous in his social relations, 
and upright in all his dealings, he passed through life 
a useful member of society and an ornament to his chosen 
profession. In his death he was truly mourned by all 
who knew him. 

The photographs of the ships here mentioned were 
tendered through the courtesy of Captain Avery's son, 
Mr. Edward W. Avery of Melrose, Mass., who was born 
on the ship "J. P. Whitney," off Bermuda, and the ship 
was his home for the first three years of his life. 

The illustration shows the " Daniel I. Tenney " passing 
Pier Head, Havre, France, outward bound. She was 
built in Newburyport, Mass., registered tonnage 1,727, 
and was a very deep ship, having three full decks. The 
upper deck was flush fore and aft. The crew's and 
officers' quarters being below decks made her easily 



TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 187 

handled in tacking or wearing ship. Although not a 
sharp built ship, she once outsailed the clipper ship 
" Seminole," and made a record of 324 miles in twenty- 
four hours. She was a big carrier, once having 2,576 
tons of coal- and 30,000 feet of lumber in her hold. She 
was sold and converted into a coal barge, and was lost 
with all hands off Cape Cod, the same night the steamship 
" Portland " went down with all on board. 

The time passed pleasantly until the " R. B. Sumner " 
was reported at the bar, — a fine ship, somewhat larger 
than the " Whitney," but I was disappointed about 
taking the command. 

Captain Elisha Dyer was an owner of one-quarter 
interest, and fully intended staying on shore that trip, 
and had so notified the firm, but he had been recently 
married, and his wife took a notion she would like to 
make a sea voyage with her husband. As a consequence 
he concluded to hold on to the command for another 
trip, and as there was not another vacancy in the fleet, 
like Micawber, I " waited for something to turn up." 

I engaged rooms at a nice boarding-house on Julia 
Street, close to Magazine, where the family of Captain 
Gray, former captain of the " J. P. Whitney," had theirs, 
the rest of the boarders being young men, mostly clerks 
and bookkeepers in the mercantile and cotton houses 
of the city. Mrs. Conklin, a widow, who kept the house, 
had three grown up daughters, and a son who was in 
business in the city; a very fine family, the girls being 
pretty, bright, intelligent, and fond of music, while Mary, 
the eldest, was a fine harpist, and an accomplished 
pianist. 

It was the early winter, and the city was in gala attire. 
Balls, theatre parties, and the opera were the regular 
thing, while evening parties at the house, musicales 



188 OCEAN LIFE 

and oyster suppers constituted a round of gaiety that 
was very fascinating to a young man. 

About this time my old friend and schoolmate, Captain 
Eben Graves, arrived in port in command of the barque 
" Panama." Not having seen each other for years, the 
meeting was a most pleasurable one for both, and 
our house being full, I gave him a cordial invitation to 
come up and share my rooms, which he gladly accepted. 
I introduced him to Mrs. Conklin and the girls, and it 
was not long before he was like a member of the family. 
Instead of going out in the evenings, he preferred to 
spend them at home, and I soon saw that between him 
and Miss Mary it was a case of love at first sight. As his 
stay was limited, matters had to arrange themselves 
quickly, and one evening after I had retired he awakened 
me to tell me the deed was done, Miss Mary had accepted 
him, and Mrs. Conklin had given her consent. The 
wedding was fixed for Saturday of the coming week, at 
9 o'clock in the morning. After the wedding breakfast 
Captain Graves was to take his bride, with her family, 
servants and all, on board the barque. I, as best man, 
was to stand up with the captain, and accompany the 
wedding party to the barque, being placed in command 
pro tern, to take her down river to the lower levee to make 
up the tow, while the captain attended to his affairs up 
town, and I was given carte blanche to provide dinner. 
At eight p. m. the good-bys would be said, and Captain 
Graves and his bride would leave for New York, while 
our carriages would take us all back to the house. This 
was the programme as laid out by the captain that night 
in my room. 

Extending my warmest congratulations to my old 
friend, I suggested the advisability of getting a little 
sleep, as it was then one o'clock, but Graves was not 



TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 189 

sleepy, and nearly two hours passed before I succeeded 
in closing my eyes. 

From that time on, all was bustle and preparation; 
the invitations were issued, and the hundred and one 
things had to be attended to, that precede a wedding. 
The sisters were in a whirl of excitement, while I, having 
no special business of my own, took a hand in all that 
was going on. The week passed quickly, and the wedding 
morn ushered in, with bright sunshine, a most lovely day. 

The guests gathered in the parlors, which had been 
prettily decorated, and just before nine o'clock the wed- 
ding party descended the stairs, and took their places, 
Miss Eva Lovering, a dear friend of Miss Mary, and a 
most charming young lady, being bridesmaid. 

They were married with the Episcopal service. The 
words that bound them together for life were uttered, 
the signatures were made, congratulations were extended 
to the newly married pair, not forgetting the kiss to the 
bride, who, blushing, looked prettier than ever. The 
bridal party then descended to the breakfast room, 
under the guidance of brother " Tom," who, as master 
of ceremonies, filled the position most gracefully. Here 
for an hour mirth and jollity reigned, after which the 
ladies retired to change their costumes, and carriages were 
taken by Mrs. Captain Graves and family for the ship. 

After seeing the party on board the captain left for 
up town, and at noon a towboat took the barque to the 
lower levee, where the tow was made up, the " Panama " 
being the outside ship. 

After dinner had been served, the family party sat 
under the awnings inspecting the shipping, and asking 
all manner of questions. Not having ever been on a 
vessel of any kind before, it was a novel experience for 
them. By five o'clock, the captain came on board, and 



190 OCEAN LIFE 

ordered tea, but no one seemed inclined to eat anything 
more, and as time drew near for parting with their 
sister the girls grew silent, a tear would glisten, an eyelash 
quiver, while they would laugh and try not to show it. 

At last the whistle of the boat sounded warning, " All 
ashore that's going ashore! " and with a final embrace, 
a hearty handshake, and a fervent " God bless you," 
the ladies were assisted across the shipping to the levee, 
where entering the carriages, we drove home, more silent 
than in the morning. Arrived at the house, an hour was 
spent in conversation, the topic being " the captain and 
Mary." 

"What kind of a voyage will she have? " " Will she 
be likely to be seasick? " and lots of other questions were 
addressed to me, to all of which I gave consoling replies. 



CHAPTER XVIII 
1860 - 1861 

BUYING INTO THE " C. H. JORDAN." — A PROTRACTED CALM 
IN THE TROPICS. THE SALADERO DE LA FONDA, MON- 
TEVIDEO. — THE EFFECT OF THE WAR ON FOREIGN TRADE 

The next few days were spent in writing and sending 
notices to all friends, north and south, after which every- 
thing settled down into the regular routine, and I remained 
in New Orleans until the early spring, then taking passage 
for Boston, I purchased a quarter interest in a full-rigged 
brig, between four and five hundred tons burthen, that 
had been condemned by the United States government 
as a slaver engaged in the slave trade between the coast 
of Africa and Cuba. 

This vessel had a history that I afterwards found out, 
but at the time I knew nothing more than that she had 
been picked up derelict off St. Thomas by a Provincetown 
whaler and brought into Provincetown. She had no 
flag, nor papers. Everything by which she could be 
identified had been destroyed. There were slave-shackles 
on board, and lumber for slave-decks, a large number of 
water casks, and all the fittings of a slave-ship; she was 
taken and condemned as such by the government, and 
sold at auction to Mr. Charles W. Adams of Boston. He 
in turn sold one quarter interest to me, to take command. 

191 



192 OCEAN LIFE 

She was placed in Kelley's dry dock, East Boston. 
Her cabin, which was below decks, was torn out and a 
deck-house was put on for cabin accommodations; also 
a new galley in the place of the old iron caboose. Her 
heavy copper was stripped off and replaced by yellow 
metal, and about 1,500 through locust treenails driven, 
to strengthen her. Altogether she was a queer-looking 
craft. Her cabin, which had extended to the mainmast, 
was finished in mahogany and boxwood, with staterooms 
on each side. In the panels of the staterooms were 
imbedded bullets that had been fired from the skylight, — 
at the captain, probably, — while on the deck, in front 
of one of the rooms, was a large stain of blood. 

Spanish built, with bluff bows above water, below 
she was very sharp, and from her mainmast aft she fell 
away, carrying nothing under the cabin deck but pig 
iron ballast. Above the between-deck beams she widened 
out, her greatest beam being at the fore rigging; from that 
she fell away aft, being very narrow at the stern, and 
steered with a big, long mahogany tiller, which was taken 
off, and a wheel substituted. 

Having bought her from the government, an American 
register was obtained with some difficulty on account of 
her being of foreign build. The name given her by the 
purchaser was " Charles W. Jordan." Her spars were 
heavy, and of great spread, while from topmast, to'gal- 
lant and royalmast heads hung heavy preventer back- 
stays, to which tackles could be hooked, and set up to 
heavy eye-bolts through the deck-beam on either side, 
the brig having every facility for carrying sail to the 
limit, if necessary. 

Having shipped a crew, the " Jordan " sailed for 
Machias, Maine, to load lumber for Rio Janeiro, and the 
run from Boston to that port showing her sailing capa- 



BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 193 

bilities, I felt that nothing that did not use steam was to 
be feared. At Machias we took on our lumber, including 
deck-load even with the rails, and at the close of a dark, 
lowering day took our leave of Machias port, and the 
gale increasing, by midnight we were scudding under 
close reefs, headed south for the Gulf Stream. 

At the time of sailing, the whole country was watching 
for the impending conflict between the North and South, 
although hostilities had not actually commenced. 

Seeing few vessels and speaking none, our passage to 
the equator was made in exceptionally quick time, the 
N. E. trades being, up to 10° north, quite strong, and 
from this point falling off, but continuing of moderate 
strength to 5° north, when they failed altogether, and a 
calm of a week's duration succeeded. 

There is scarcely anything more annoying than a pro- 
tracted calm at sea, especially after having made a good 
passage up to a given point. As far as the eye can reach, 
bounded only by the horizon, lies a glassy unbroken 
surface, perhaps a slight, undulating ocean swell, on 
which the vessel lazily rolls from side to side, or lies 
motionless, the sails hanging limp or clewed up to prevent 
slatting and chafing. The sun, like a ball of fire, beats 
down upon the deck, causing the pitch and tar to bubble 
out of the seams, while the deck is like a furnace. . Awnings 
are spread, but the men go about their work in a listless, 
half-hearted way, while the captain gazes eagerly around, 
whistling softly for a breeze, so the day wears on. Old 
Sol is getting lower and lower, until like a fiery globe he 
sinks below the horizon's edge. The shadows deepen 
and night creeps o'er the sea, and the stars come out, 
while a delicious coolness, in contrast with the fierce heat 
of the day, is felt. There is no sign of a wind. So passes 
the night, and almost before the stars have faded, the 



194 OCEAN LIFE 

watch is turned to, decks are washed down and scrubbed, 
while every bit of woodwork, outside and in, receives its 
baptism of ocean water. 

Meanwhile another day draws on apace and 

" Noiselessly as the daylight 
Comes when the night is done, 
And the crimson streak 
On ocean's cheek, 
Grows into the great sun." 

Still no darkening shadow of a coming breeze, and we 

lie 

" As idle as a painted ship 
Upon a painted ocean." 

Day after day, and sometimes week after week, passes, 
and still no wind. One can imagine the horrors of the 
" middle passage " (from the coast of Africa to Cuba) 
on a slave-ship in the old slave-carrying days, with such 
a calm. But relief is at hand. Afar off on the horizon 
a few small clouds are seen, while along the edge appears 
a dark shadow, gradually spreading and rapidly advan- 
cing. No squall that, but a steady wind, the first welcome 
breath of the S. E. trades, and we know the calm is a 
thing of the past. 

With every stitch spread, and every sail trimmed to 
meet it, the good brig heels gently over, the white foam 
thrown from her bows, and once more endowed with 
life, she crosses the line, with yards braced sharp, con- 
tinuing her way along the Brazilian coast. 

We sighted Cape Frio, and bearing away to the west- 
ward, the following morning entered the beautiful bay 
of Rio Janeiro. 

The brig having a clean bill of health, the doctor's 
visit was soon over, and the ship-chandler's boat pulled 



BUYING THE "C. H. JORDAN" 195 

alongside. He wished to know if I wanted to go on 
shore, but as it was between four and five p. m. I concluded 
to wait until morning. He chanced, however, in naming 
over the American vessels in port, to mention the barque 
" Panama," Captain Graves. This altered the case, 
and I told him I believed I would go, after all, and having 
been taken alongside the barque, I ascended the gangway 
and stepped on deck, where the first officer, who was a 
stranger, received me. On inquiring for the captain I 
was told he had not yet come off from shore. 

" Is Mrs. Graves on board? " 

" Yes, sir, would you like to see her? " 

" Why, yes, as the captain is not on board/ 7 

He ushered me on to the quarter-deck abaft the house, 
where Mrs. Graves sat in a rocker, and started to announce 
me, when, with one look and a scream of delight, she 
sprang from her chair, warmly greeting me, and seating 
ourselves, we commenced a review of the time since we 
parted. I answered all questions about the family, but 
we had not proceeded far, when she suddenly exclaimed, 
as a boat pulled towards us: 

" There comes Eb.; we'll give him a surprise! " 

Then she hustled me into a stateroom, where from 
my retirement I could hear Captain Graves say as he 
came aft: 

:( What! all alone, Mary? I saw some one here as I 
came aboard! Where is he? " 

After keeping him wondering awhile, she pointed 
towards the door of the stateroom where I was, and 
opening it, we stood face to face! 

With a shout he recognized me, and a hearty welcome 
and handshake followed. 

We had so much to talk about that they insisted upon 
my taking up my quarters with them while in port, to 



196 OCEAN LIFE 

which I gladly assented, going on board the brig daily, 
and returning at night to the " Panama." 

At the request of my consignee I rechartered the 
" Jordan " to take the cargo on to Montevideo, instead 
of discharging at Rio, lumber being more in demand 
there, and a week later, bidding good-by to Captain 
Graves and wife, with the wish that I might see them 
on my return, the " C. H. Jordan " got under way, and 
running out past the fort and Sugar Loaf, with a fine 
breeze was soon bowling along towards Cape St. Mary, and 
nothing of note occurring, in a week we dropped anchor in 
the harbor of Montevideo. Uruguay is the smallest of 
the South American republics, covering an area of but 
seventy-two thousand square miles, while its capital 
Montevideo is the chief commercial center, having a 
population of about two hundred and fifty thousand 
inhabitants. All fruits and vegetables grown in Europe 
can be successfully raised there, the hot season holding 
sway from November to April, and the cold season from 
May to October. The chief industries are the raising 
of cattle and sheep, and other agricultural pursuits. 
The value of its animal products exported in 1897 
was nearly twenty-seven million dollars, that of jerked 
beef alone amounting to about four and one half- 
millions. 

Quite a number of vessels were in port, among them 
several American, including the United States frigate 
" Congress." (The sailing frigate " Congress," 50 guns, 
sunk in Hampton Roads, Va., March 8, 1862, after having 
been disabled while fast aground, by the Confederate iron- 
clad steam-battery " Virginia," rebuilt on the hull of 
the U. S. steam frigate " Merrimac." This battle was 
the introduction of steel and steam into the navy.) 

I was ordered by the consignees of our lumber to 




CAPTAIN JOSEPH AV. CLAPP 



BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 197 

discharge at once, and recharter to take a cargo of jerked 
beef back to Rio Janeiro, and while making arrangements 
with Mr. Evans, — mentioned in a former chapter in 
connection with the death of Captain Smiley, — ship- 
chandler and provision dealer, who supplied about all 
the shipping with beef and vegetables, I formed the 
acquaintance of the different shipmasters, who made 
their headquarters at Evans's store, getting the news 
there, etc., etc. 

Evans was a sharp, shrewd Englishman without much 
education, but keen at a trade, bluff and jolly, though 
at times very emphatic in his language. His business 
and books were superintended and kept by Captain Joseph 
W. Clapp, a genuine Nantucketer, who was the most 
original of men. Honest, attentive to business, with an 
eye always to his employer's interest, he displayed a 
rare tact in dealing with customers, that was invaluable 
to Mr. Evans, who was, at times, inclined to be irritable 
when anything went wrong, and many took exception to 
his language; but a witty remark or a funny story from 
" Joe " would straighten matters out, and I think Evans 
owed his success in business, in a great measure, to Clapp's 
ability, honesty and faithfulness. In society he was a 
general favorite; full of humor, and witty in conversation, 
he possessed a fund of stories of his island home and its 
inhabitants, that he could draw upon at will. 

Horseback riding was freely indulged in, as at Buenos 
Ayres, and many a gallop I enjoyed to the other side of 
the bay, where was located the " Saladero de la Fonda," 
an immense establishment for the slaughtering of cattle 
and the curing and putting up of the " Carne Tasaga," 
or jerked beef of commerce, that was exported to Brazil 
and France in immense quantities. This was a place well 
worth visiting, and a goodly number of rides were taken 



198 OCEAN LIFE 

around the bay to see the process of converting the steer 
into jerked beef. 

There was a very large one-story building, or more 
properly shed, open at the sides, with a stone flooring, 
and gutters to carry off the blood that literally ran in 
rivers during the killing process, while along its entire 
length was a double track terminating at one end in a 
corral, or enclosure, which was built with an inclined 
plane towards the end nearest the shed, narrowing down 
to the width of a broad platform car, that during the 
killing was introduced under the bars of an enclosure 
between the shed and the end of the corral. This corral 
would contain three or four hundred steers, and had an 
opening into a large one that held many thousands. The 
walls of the smaller corral were broad enough for a man 
to walk on them around it, and throw the lasso over the 
cattle's heads, when they were jerked down on to the 
platform car standing ready to receive them; the other 
end of the lasso being carried through a pulley into a 
patio, or yard outside, where it was attached to a horse 
ridden by a gaucho, who, on the call from the lassoer, 
spurred up and yanked the animal out from among the 
others down the incline on to the car. 

On a small platform, close to the bars, stood the man 
who did the killing, and who, by reaching over, could 
strike the animal just back of the horns in the neck with 
a knife, severing the spinal cord, when the steer would 
drop, as though shot, on to the car, and, the bars being 
drawn, it would shoot out along the track, which was 
lined with men about five or six feet apart, who tumbled 
them off the car, and in less than two minutes they were 
dissected. They took off the hide with a few sweeps of 
the long, sharp knives, two more removed the flesh from 
the ribs, while in less time than it takes to write it, the 



BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 199 

hide was going in one direction, the beef to vats for the 
soaking previous to pressing out and the curing in the 
sun, — during which time no rain was allowed to fall 
upon it, — making the jerked beef of commerce, while 
the bones, hoofs and horns were taken to the rendering 
house. There were separate establishments for all these 
purposes, and the entire works covered many acres, to 
say nothing of the great corral capable of holding ten 
thousand head of cattle. 

A funny incident occurred during one of my visits, 
although for a short time it seemed to me to possess more 
of the tragic element. One fine morning, I had ridden 
over alone, fastened my horse, and entered the shed that 
was supported by iron columns, not over clean, and was 
standing near the bars, watch in hand, timing a man as 
to the length of time he took to skin and dismember a 
steer; this work being so rapid as to excite wonder. 

Sometimes when the bars would be dropped to let 
the car out, the killer having missed his aim, the car 
would come out with the steer alive and unhurt, in which 
case there would be fun for a few moments before the 
animal was killed. 

This was the case on this particular morning. A shout 
called my attention from the man I was watching, and 
looking around, I caught sight of an infuriated bull, 
with tail in air, and lowered head, making for me. Regard- 
less, of clothing, I made a spring for a column and, climbing 
it, was just in time to escape his onrush, which was a 
fierce one. Turning from me, he attacked a pile of beef, 
which flew in all directions. The workman had taken 
refuge in the rear of the columns, from behind one of 
which a man, as the animal passed, sprang out, knife in 
hand, and hamstringing him, the excitement was over. 
These fellows did not mind it; a loose wild bull, being an 



200 OCEAN LIFE 

affair of almost daily occurrence, had no terrors for 
them. 

Meeting on shore daily the officers from the men-of-war 
in port, as well as the merchant captains, I listened with 
interest to the animated discussions on the prospects 
of a civil war, and the probable result from the same. 
Among the officers, many of whom were Southern men, 
the feeling was intense, and news was anxiously awaited 
with every mail. Captains gathered each day at Evans's, 
and the situation was the all-absorbing topic of conver- 
sation. 

The lumber discharged, the hold of the " C. H. Jordan " 
was made ready, by being matted, for the return cargo of 
jerked beef, not an inviting article to look at, but when 
washed and made into a savory stew better than it 
looked. Our lading completed and anchor weighed, we 
rounded the point, passing Lobos Island and Cape St. 
Mary, headed north for Rio. 

With the exception of a little brush off the Rio Grande, 
our passage was a fair one, and in nine days, the brig 
again passed the Sugar Loaf, and came to anchor in the 
bay off the landing mole. The next day we hauled into 
what was called the " jerked beef tier," a line of small 
vessels that were moored, head and stern, off the city 
front, extending from the mole to Cobras Island, and 
having only cargoes of jerked beef on board, which were 
retailed from the vessel. Between the water front and 
this line was a passage for boats and small steamers. 

As the shore people attended to the sale and delivery 
of the cargo, and I had sixty lay days to deliver the 
same, there was nothing to do but take it easy. 

On shore among the shipping fraternity the war 
excitement was at fever heat. The news of the firing on 
Fort Sumter and the breaking out of the civil war had 



BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 201 

been received, and all knew what that meant. Besides 
the vessels hailing from northern ports, there were a very- 
large number of barques and brigs hailing from Rich- 
mond, Virginia, and other southern ports, all engaged 
in the coffee trade. These were in a dilemma indeed. 
Once outside the shelter of the Bay of Rio Janeiro, they 
were liable to seizure as prizes by any American man-of- 
war that happened along. On the other hand, there was 
the choice of staying in port while the war lasted, and 
that might be for years, and Rio, though a beautiful 
spot to visit, was not just the place where one would 
choose to remain the year round indefinitely, or, as Jack 
would say, " until the vessel grounded on her beef bones." 

" Curses both loud and deep " were frequent, while 
heated arguments in favor of the North or the South, as 
the case might be, were freely indulged in by the numerous 
captains. It was not only the Southerners who were 
troubled in mind; the flag was shut down on, and freights 
were not obtainable for Yankee bottoms without great 
difficulty. Visions of Southern privateers, loss of ship, 
and a sojourn in a Southern port or prison loomed up 
in the mind of the Northern captain, while many were 
not only anxious to get home, but also to enroll themselves 
in the army or navy as defenders of the constitution and 
the right. 

To my great joy, I found the " Panama " still in port 
under orders to wait for coffee, but the consignees had 
not deemed it best to load her, as yet, and going on 
board I found an addition to the Graves family of a 
beautiful little daughter, and the captain was a very 
happy man. 



CHAPTER XIX 
1861 - 1862 

THE FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE. — THE DOM PEDRO RAIL- 
ROAD. BRAZILIAN FORESTS. — RIO JANEIRO TO ST. 

THOMAS 

A month later, the cargo being all out, and not seeing 
any prospect of a freight north, feeling that as at this 
distance there was not much to fear from privateers, — ■ 
it would be better to engage in that trade than to lie 
idle waiting for a freight to be offered north, — I chartered 
the brig to a Brazilian firm for six months to bring 
came tasaga, or jerked beef, from Montevideo to Rio, 
and bade good-by to Captain Graves and his wife, whom 
I did not expect to see on my return, as he was about 
to commence the taking in of his coffee. 

The day before sailing I was asked if I could take a 
passenger, and on my answering in the affirmative the 
passage money was handed me, with the understanding 
that he was to be aboard before daylight. A tug having 
been engaged, the brig was towed to sea very early, the 
towboat dropping us outside the islands, where taking 
the sea breeze, by nine o'clock we were once again on our 
way to the river. Shortly after leaving, the main topsail 
yard was carried away in the slings, but having a spare 
spar on board it was quickly replaced, and in two hours 
the " Jordan " was all right again. It was a wonder 

202 



FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 203 

that the old spar lasted as long as it did, for on examina- 
tion it was found to be decayed at heart. 

Our passenger, whose name was Love, was a magician 
by profession, and claimed to be a son of the great English 
magician of that name, but in reality he was a fraud of 
the first water. I afterwards found out that he was 
leaving Rio " under the rose " and that there were many 
who were anxiously looking after him. I knew nothing 
of him at the time. He seemed to be a genial chap, who 
at times would give an exhibition of his skill at juggling 
which appeared to us very mysterious, and we were 
inclined to look upon him as one likely to draw a crowd. 

His intention was to give an exhibition at the Mount 
and then go on to Buenos Ayres. 

With fine breezes and good weather, in eight days we 
again passed Lobos Island, and let go our anchor in the 
harbor of Montevideo. On landing I introduced Mr. 
Love to Mr. Evans and Captain Clapp, bespeaking their 
good offices for him, also making him acquainted with 
the captains, telling them his profession, and booming 
him with a good word whenever I had the opportunity. 

While we were making ready for another cargo of 
jerked beef, the time was passed when on shore mostly 
at Evans's discussing the war and the eventual outcome. 
Meanwhile Mr. Love had been busy. 

The Grand Opera House had been engaged for one 
night only, his numerous engagements precluding a longer 
stay, and Montevideo was placarded with gaudy posters 
setting forth the accomplishments of the great Professor 
Love, a wizard of the highest order and son of the late 
eminent English magician of the same name. Never was 
anything better advertised. Montevideo was on the 
qui vive. The nerve of that fellow has been a wonder to 
me ever since! 



204 OCEAN LIFE 

The eventful night arrived, and the immense audi- 
torium was packed from pit to dome, Captain Clapp and 
myself occupying seats in the dress circle. 

There was no orchestra, so the great audience was 
thrown upon its own resources until the raising of the 
curtain, and after a delay of half an hour the throng 
began to exhibit signs of impatience. 

At last, up went the curtain, showing the dimly lighted 
stage, a table here and there, and one or two rows of wax 
candles, with a few tawdry figures scattered about. 
There was an ominous silence. Presently the professor 
appeared from the wings, dressed in a tinsel robe covered 
with Egyptian characters and hieroglyphics, and bowing 
to the floor, first to the east, and then in succession to 
the three other cardinal points of the compass, assumed 
different postures occupying about five or ten minutes, 
while the audience sat in wondering silence. Then going 
behind the scene, he reappeared in a moment, and per- 
formed some simple tricks that probably every one had 
seen many times, also attempting some more delicate 
work with an assistant, but the whole performance was 
so flimsy and palpable as to be seen through by the 
veriest child. 

Directly a murmur arose, then a hiss, then more hisses, 
until an uproar of indignation filled every part of the 
house. The professor, who had at first retired from the 
stage, now came to the front and attempted to speak, 
but the uproar was such that he could not be heard. 
Then came a shower of missiles, — cabbages, turnips, 
potatoes, eggs. He stood his ground until an iron crown 
that some one had torn from the decorations came 
whizzing by his head, just missing it. Then he turned 
and fled. His assailants jumped on the stage in pursuit, 
but failed to catch him, as he had made good his escape 



FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 205 

from the rear of the theatre. He took with him the best 
part of the receipts, and getting on a steamer just leaving 
for Buenos Ayres, was seen no more. 

The audience vented their rage on all his stage fittings. 

" Well " said Captain Clapp, or " Joe " as I used to 
call him, as we came out of the Opera House together, 
" I'm Mowed if that don't beat all. What if that iron 
crown had gone four inches more to the right? " 

Love's fiasco formed the topic of conversation for many 
days after. 

It was on this trip that I obtained in Montevideo full 
information relative to the history of the brig " Charles 
H. Jordan," former slaver. I had occasion to employ 
some men from shore, and one, on coming aboard, looked 
around and exclaimed: 

" Why, I know this craft, only she's been altered! " 

Overhearing the remark, I called the man aft, and 
questioned him. He said he had made two voyages in 
her to the coast of Africa, bringing slaves to Cuba and 
landing them on the south side of the island near the 
Isle of Pines. Both trips had been successful, and the 
brig being very fast, and a great favorite, was not des- 
troyed after landing the darkies, as was often the case, 
to remove evidence. He said she was a very old vessel, 
built originally in and belonging to Barcelona, Spain, 
and being in great favor with her owners, she had been 
rebuilt on the same lines, and sent to Havana, where 
she was bought for the slave-trade. At the end of the 
second run he left her, and on the third trip to the African 
coast, having about $30,000 in specie on board, the crew 
mutinied after reaching the coast, captured the brig and 
killed the captain and other officers, shooting the captain 
from the skylight in front of his stateroom. Running 
the brig down across the trades until in the vicinity of St. 



206 OCEAN LIFE 

Thomas, they destroyed everything on board by which 
she could be identified, and taking to the boats, landed 
at that port, giving out that their vessel had sunk. From 
St. Thomas they proceeded to Havana, and having plenty 
of money, while " in their cups " they betrayed their 
secret and were arrested. Two of the crew turned 
state's evidence, and the rest were tried, convicted, and 
garroted. The brig was picked up by a whaler as before 
stated. 

Having taken our cargo of jerked beef on board, we 
again took our departure for Rio, where we arrived safely 
and entered our berth in the tier for the sale of the cargo. 

I spent most of the time on shore, daily looking for 
letters and news of the war, our place of rendezvous 
being at the ship-chandlery of George Essling, opposite 
Palace Square. 

About this time I made the acquaintance of an engineer 
of the name of Moore, a Virginian, and one of the con- 
tractors for the building of the Dom Pedro Railroad, a 
road that was being built from Rio across the Sierras, 
into the table-lands of Brazil, to bring the products of the 
interior to the seaboard. At that time mules were the 
only means for transportation. During the rainy season, 
for almost six months of the year the roads were nearly 
impassable. It was impossible to get the products to a 
shipping point, and even in the dry season the rates of 
freight were enormous. To obviate this, the Dom Pedro 
Railroad was being built by the Brazilian government. 
Mr. Moore had a section of the road to build beyond the 
mountain near the Parahiba River, and being in the city 
for supplies, gave Captain William Hobbs, of the ship 
" Morning Glory/ 7 and myself an invitation to make 
him a two weeks' visit. At the end of that time he 
would be coming to the city again and would return with 



FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 207 

us. We gladly accepted, for this was an opportunity to 
see something of the country outside the limits of the 
port that was not to be slighted, and as there was nothing 
to keep us in the city, we made our preparations without 
delay, and one beautiful morning took the train for 
Bellaine, a station some twenty-five or thirty miles from 
Rio, thence to the village of Macawcos, a little place at the 
foot-hills, the terminus of the railroad. On leaving the 
train, we found a party of four or five of Moore's men 
with mules, and one horse belonging to Moore. Also 
awaiting our arrival were the pack animals to carry the 
supplies we had brought along. I not being accustomed 
to riding a mule, Moore gave up his horse to me, and the 
freight having been carefully packed on the animals, we 
mounted and started on our journey across the range of 
mountains. A fair road wound around hill and crag, 
sometimes doubling on itself. Upward, and still upward 
we climbed, until at night we drew rein at the little 
hamlet of Brandon, located on the summit of the mountain 
and the highest part of the road, where the main shaft 
of the tunnel had been sunk. 

Moore had ordered our entertainment ahead, and 
alighting from our tired animals, hungry as bears, we 
entered a house where a good supper awaited us, to which 
we did ample justice. After supper, at the invitation of 
the section superintendent, we went down the shaft, 
upwards of a thousand feet in depth, in a bucket. There 
was little timbering, and it seemed a long time descending 
through the walls of solid rock. The headings were from 
eight hundred to twelve hundred feet from the shaft, 
and the workmen looked like spectres, flitting about in 
the gloom. I was told the tunnel had three shafts in 
which the work went on, as well as at the ends. It 
appeared to be a stupendous undertaking. Again entering 



208 OCEAN LIFE 

the bucket, we were drawn slowly to the surface, and 
thanking the superintendent for his courtesy, we entered 
the house and shortly retired. 

The temperature at this height was a marked contrast 
with that of Rio. When we left that city it was intensely 
hot, while here, blankets and spreads on the beds were 
not uncomfortable. After a sound sleep we awoke 
refreshed. Outside the scenery was fine, the hills and 
mountains showing up grandly, the peaks tinted with 
the light of the coming day, while lower down the valley 
the mist, not having lifted, still shrouded the view. 

We partook of a hurried breakfast, and again mounting, 
commenced our descent adown the western slope, and 
reaching the foot-hills safely, made our way through 
heavily wooded districts, along ravines and over hills, 
until about four p. m. we entered Moore's section of the 
road and proceeded to his hut, which was the largest of 
a number. It was used for general dining purposes, 
while the cooking was done in a smaller building adjoining. 
Here we dismounted, all glad to rest, the section-hands 
gathering at the big hut to hear the news, and after a 
hearty supper pipes were lighted and the evening was 
given over to a general jollification. 

" Early to bed and early to rise," was here the rule, 
and by nine o'clock the visitors from other sections got 
astride their mules, and with a " whoop, la! " galloped 
off in the darkness, our men seeking their shake-downs, 
and by ten the camp was still, all hands wrapped in 

" Tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." 

Gil Bias makes " Sancho " in " Don Quixote " say, 
" God bless the man who first invented sleep," and 
I think all, that night, would have echoed the prayer. 

Arising with the daylight, and performing our ablu- 



FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 209 

tions in a big tin basin, we strolled out to take a look at 
our surroundings before breakfast. These were, a large 
cleared space in front of which was the virgin forest, a 
clear stream of water a couple of hundred feet from the 
house, and the woods alive with birds of every hue, 
parrots and paroquets screaming and chattering, their 
green plumage mingling with the most gorgeous hues 
of every color of the rainbow, but no song-birds 
such as we hear in our New England woods. About a 
quarter of a mile distant in the rear of the hut was a 
ravine, leading up among the hills, from which day and 
night issued a noise like distant thunder. I asked Moore 
what it was, and he replied, " Monkeys." The ravine, 
which was heavily wooded, contained tens of thousands 
of monkeys, who kept up an incessant roaring resembling 
thunder. 

At the sounding of the horn, all hands filed in for 
breakfast, which consisted of flapjacks, bacon, sweet 
potatoes, stewed black beans and farina; the last two 
being the standard dish in Brazil among the working 
classes. Having made a hearty meal, the cook attended 
to the dishes, the hands went to their work, and Hobbs 
and myself had a great desire to go up the ravine, but 
Moore assured us it would not be safe, as many of the 
monkeys were of very large size and would attack a man 
very quickly if angry, and that there were so many of 
them, one would stand little show even if armed. So 
reluctantly we gave it up, and spent our time watching 
the men at- work, strolling in the forest gun in hand but 
seeing little to shoot at, collecting leaves and ferns for 
specimens, watching the many-hued feathered tribe, and 
listening to the monkeys conversing; thus passed the 
two weeks very pleasantly and quickly. 

Taking leave of the section-hands the last morning, 



210 OCEAN LIFE 

we mounted our mules, this time leaving the horse behind, 
as we were going over the line of railroad, and mules 
were reckoned to be more sure-footed than a horse, and 
what a ride that return trip was! Along ledges, the path, 
in some places, not over a few feet wide, where one looked 
straight down one or two thousand feet; chasms across 
which a few trees were thrown, and you could look on 
the tree-tops a thousand feet below! We scaled rocks 
where it was necessary to dismount and clamber up after 
the mules as best we could, and following their example, 
bracing ourselves on banks of loose earth, we would shoot 
like an arrow to the bottom of a valley eight hundred 
feet deep ! We forded streams, and at one time narrowly 
avoided a dangerous quicksand, and I mentally resolved, 
that, when built, there was not money enough in Brazil 
to tempt me to become a conductor or engineer on the 
Dom Pedro Railroad. 

But all things have an end; so it was with our trip, 
and when over I would not have missed it. 

When I arrived in Rio I found no chance of a freight 
and concluded to sail for home in ballast, taking the 
chances of privateers, and having received on board 
what few stores were required and cleared for St. Thomas, 
we said good-by to Rio Janeiro. 



CHAPTER XX 

1862 

LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER. — IN COMMAND OF SHIP 
" DANUBE." — HEAVY GALE. — CHINESE PIRATES. — 
THE " ARIEL " AT SHANGHAI 

We passed Cape Frio, and along the Brazil coast, with 
fine strong trades, Bahia and Pernambuco, and crossing 
the equator, were once more in the home waters of the 
north Atlantic. Up to this time we had seen very few 
vessels, and most of these showed no disposition to be 
neighborly, but edged off as far as possible. We, ourselves, 
looked upon every craft with suspicion; declining an 
intimate acquaintance until we were assured in our 
minds that she had no evil designs against us. All hands, 
fore and aft, were on the alert for a Southern privateer, 
but again, in this case, the old adage, " A watched pot, 
etc.," proved true, and one beautiful morning we sighted 
the island, and entered the cozy harbor of St. Thomas. 
On shore I found the flag was shut down on, and there 
were no available freights in the market for American 
bottoms, and having received the latest news of the war, 
we sailed for Boston. 

All went well until we were north of Bermuda on the 
southern edge of the Gulf Stream, and coming on deck 
one morning, I noticed nearly in our wake a fore-and-aft 
schooner apparently pursued by an hermaphrodite brig. 

211 . 



212 OCEAN LIFE 

It had been blowing strong, with dirty looking weather 
the previous night, and the " Jordan " was under double- 
reefed topsails. Both the pursued and the pursuer were 
close-hauled on the port tack, with every inch of canvas 
that could be crowded on them. As they drew up on 
our weather beam it could be seen that the schooner was 
gaining on the brig and outwinding her, and evidently 
finding it was of no use, the pursuer bore away, and 
running down in my wake, was fast overhauling the 
" Jordan." I watched her with a glass, and from the 
number of men on her deck, I became suspicious, and 
calling all hands, the tackles were hooked on to the 
preventer backstays, while the order was given to shake 
out reefs and loose to'gallants. This work the boys sprang 
to with a will. Topsails were mastheaded and to'gallant 
sails set, as a squall that had been gathering to wind'ard 
came down upon us, and checking in the yards, and 
keeping her off two or three points, the old brig fairly 
flew through the water, reeling off fifteen or sixteen knots 
at least. 

The squall lasted nearly two hours, settling down into 
a stiff blow, and we saw nothing more of our privateer, 
if such she was, and taking a pilot in the bay, we passed 
Boston Light, sailed up the harbor, and made fast along- 
side Battery Wharf. 

I found the office on Doane Street closed when I 
went to see my co-owner Charles W. Adams, and upon 
going into Mr. Deshon's office on the floor below to make 
inquiries, I was informed that he had been engaged in 
running the blockade at Galveston, Texas, with his 
vessels, and had been arrested, — or, rather, had gone 
out of the back door as the United States marshal 
entered at the front, making his escape into Canada 
and from thence to England, where he was then residing. 




SHIP "DANIEL I. TENNEY." 
[See page 186 




SHIP "EDWARD HYMEN. 

[See page U 



LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 213 

On my return to the brig I was greeted by an officer 
who had been placed in charge during my absence, the 
" C. H. Jordan " having been seized by the government, 
i. e. Mr. Adams's part, and mine being indivisible could 
not be separated from his, and so was held as rebel prop- 
erty. This was a dilemma, but there was no help for it. 
The only thing to do was to get a power of attorney from 
Mr. Adams, which his brother finally succeeded in doing. 
We had her appraised and purchased her for the sec- 
ond time from the government, to whom I afterwards 
chartered her for six months to take naval stores to Port 
Royal (South Carolina), and placing Captain Knott Bray 
of Marblehead in command, I waited the arrival of the 
ship " Danube," then on her passage from Rio Janeiro 
to New York, and owned by my uncle, Mr. Thomas 
Appleton of Marblehead. 

These were exciting times, — the spring of '62, — the 
dark and trying days of the Civil War. While the torch 
of patriotism glowed brightly, and the love of country 
kindled in the bosoms of the loyal North, still there were 
many who sought to extinguish it, by giving aid and 
succor to those who were doing their best to break up 
the republic, and trample upon the constitution. Troops 
were almost daily departing for the south, while the 
bulletin boards were constantly surrounded by eager 
throngs anxious for news from the front. 

I had been recently married, and with the ship's arrival 
I took my departure, with my wife, for New York, to 
take command. 

The " Danube " was a fine ship, of a thousand tons 
register, and had been chartered to load coal for Shanghai, 
China. She had been fitted out for eighteen months, and 
it was the intention of the owner to have her remain in 
the China seas, freighting, while the war lasted, there 



214 OCEAN LIFE 

being a better show there than in home waters, with less 
chance of capture by privateers. 

Taking leave of New York, and towing out past Sandy 
Hook, we bade good-by to Mr. Appleton and his wife, 
and other friends, who had accompanied us down the bay 
to see us off and return on the towboat. Sail was made 
quickly, fasts cast off from the tug, and the " Danube " 
was fairly entered upon her long voyage. 

It was currently reported that Southern privateers were 
in the vicinity, including Semmes in the Confederate 
cruiser " Alabama," and a sharp lookout was kept day 
and night, but no sign of any craft bearing the " Bon- 
nie Blue Flag " was sighted, and the " Danube " crossed 
the equator without making the acquaintance of friend 
or foe. 

Good, strong S. E. trades swept us along the Brazil 
coast, when taking the fresh westerly gales, we were soon 
up with the Cape of Good Hope, and passed it with strong 
gales veering from southwest to west-northwest, and 
again entered the waters of the Indian Ocean. From this 
time on, strong, steady gales prevailed, with snow and 
hail storms, the " Danube " scudding under lower topsails, 
and reefed foresails, reeling off her two hundred and 
eighty to three hundred miles per day. This was, indeed, 
glorious sailing. 

In the longitude of Mauritius we experienced a gale 
of more than usual severity. While not a revolving storm, 
it blew with hurricane force. The barometer had hung 
very low for twenty-four hours, and the sky had a wild 
look. It was blowing very heavily, with a high sea run- 
ning, so I deemed it best to heave to before night, which 
was done, the ship making good weather, shipping no 
water. At eleven p. m. (six bells) the sea seeming a 
little smoother, we kept her off on her course under two 



LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 215 

lower topsails. By eight bells (morning watch) it was 
blowing great guns, harder than ever. 

Daylight broke, showing a wild scene. The wind was 
blowing with tremendous force, but the worst feature 
was the piling up of the seas, like huge mountains of water 
high above and threatening to sweep over the taffrail, — 
tumbling in at the waist as they rushed past, and flooding 
the main deck. 

I regretted, then, that she had not remained hove to, 
for heaving to now was a serious matter! 

By four bells, feeling that she must be brought to the 
wind or founder, I beckoned Mr. Broughton into the 
cabin companionway, where one could not be heard 
outside, and gave him his instructions. 

I managed to get on the housetop holding on to the 
weather mizzen rigging. 

Clewing up the weather side of the fore topsail, hauling 
spilling-lines well taut, leaving the lee clew still sheeted 
home, and bracing the head yards forward, the crew, with 
Mr. Broughton and the second and third officers, laid 
aft to the main braces. 

Signing to the man at the wheel to ease down when 
there seemed a better chance of coming to without taking 
a sea aboard, giving at the same time a signal to ease off, 
and round in the main braces, slowly she swung into the 
wind, and had just brought the sea fairly abeam, when 
she gave two or three tremendous rolls that put her yard 
arms deep in the water. 

Fortunately the coal that was between decks could 
not shift, having been looked after very carefully in 
New York, and stanchioned down with a view to just 
such an emergency, but it shifted at the ends, in the hold, 
giving her about four or five streaks list, which was 
carried the remainder of the passage. 



216 OCEAN LIFE 

Recovering, she came up to the sea, making fairly good 
weather, although falling off occasionally, but shipped 
no water to speak of, until about two bells in the first 
dog-watch, when a big wave broke on board, staving 
in the bulwarks aft, smashing the skylights, flooding the 
cabin, also staving the boats, and creating havoc generally; 
but the wind suddenly jumping into southwest, enabled 
the ship to come up, head to sea, when she lay more 
comfortably. With the change of wind, the gale began 
to abate, and by six bells (eleven p. m.) the " Danube " 
was again put upon her course. In due time we passed 
the islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam, when bearing away 
north, we took the trades, and shortly after sighted Java 
Head and entered Sunda Straits. 

It was now the last of the southwest monsoon, and 
being anxious to get through the China seas before the 
northeast set in, we made no stop at Anger Point, but 
obtained our supplies of fruit, vegetables and live stock 
from the Malay trading-boats that boarded us before 
arriving off the point. 

Leaving Anger, we crossed the Java Sea with a rattling 
breeze, entering Gaspar Strait, and were so fortunate as 
to get through before night, when the wind falling light, 
with a strong current, we brought the ship to anchor to 
await daylight. A sharp lookout with guns loaded and 
everything in readiness was kept during the night for 
pirate proas, should they make an attempt to board us. 
The " Danube " had a good armament, consisting of 
four large deck-guns, in the use of which the crew were well 
drilled; two of them being twelve-pounders, rifled, the 
other two smooth bores, a dozen and a half muskets, 
the same number of boarding-pikes, and pistols (large 
size), sabres, cutlasses, and a magazine with plenty of 
ammunition. This was necessary for a ship trading or 



LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 217 

freighting in these waters at this time, as the Chinese 
pirates were very numerous, the Chusan Archipelago 
being infested with them, as well as the southern coast. 
Pirating, among the Chinese, was a regularly organized 
business; their agents on shore kept them appraised of 
what would be profitable captures: junks with valuable 
cargoes or specie on board. While confining their depreda- 
tions mostly to junks and smaller vessels, they were a 
formidable foe to European craft if they could catch them 
unawares. Theirs were fast-sailing junks, often with 
ten or twelve large guns, — stowed in the hold if they 
ran into port, — carrying a crew of from ninety to a 
hundred men. They were as cruel and bloodthirsty 
a set of scoundrels " as ever scuttled ship or cut 
a throat," showing no mercy when one was in their 
power, unless there was the chance of a big ransom 
being paid. 

When at sea, their usual mode of procedure, on falling 
in with a vessel that they deemed safe to attack, was to 
get to wind'ard, keeping along in company, and gradually 
edging down upon her, but so slow and gradual as not 
to excite suspicion until very near. At the masthead of 
these piratical junks, if one looked closely, would be seen 
a package of glass or earthen jars; these contained the 
most villainous smelling compound, that only a China- 
man could stand, and not even he for long. Having 
approached near enough, one of their men would be seen 
shinning up the rigging, and when aloft the wheel would 
be put up and the junk run alongside, and the jars, or 
bottles, would be dashed down on the victim's decks. 
The fearful stench having driven all below deck, the pirates 
would spring from their concealment, and swarm on board, 
cutlass in hand, cutting down all who opposed them, and 
in a few moments the vessel would be in their possession, 



218 OCEAN LIFE 

when the work of plundering and murdering went rapidly 
on. 

These pirates have their regular haunts, villages and 
communities subject to their laws, governed by a chief, 
or head, who rules with a rod of iron; these being their 
places of rendezvous, from which they sally forth when 
advised by their agents, or for a piratical cruise. It was 
always considered a safe thing, when a junk was seen 
edging down upon one of our vessels, to get a gun or 
rifle ready, and when the Chinaman started to go aloft, 
to drop him before he got there. This accomplished, in 
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred they would haul off, 
and nothing further would be heard from them. 

Meeting the northeast monsoon, the " Danube " 
passed outside of Formosa Island, now having a dead 
beat north of the Chusan Archipelago, to the Yangtse 
River, one of the great highways of the Celestial Empire. 

A pilot was taken outside and we ascended the Yangtse 
to the mouth of the Woosung River, on which stands the 
city of Shanghai, the chief seaport of China, with a popula- 
tion of upwards of half a million, opened to foreign trade 
in 1842. It is one of the walled cities of China, and con- 
tains flourishing manufactories of silk, glass, and paper. 
Outside the city walls, on the banks of the Woosung, are 
the foreign concessions: French, German, English and 
American. They are all separate from each other, and 
contain the business houses, the various consulates, 
hotels, and residences of each particular country, also 
the centre of trade and commerce of the Chinese, who 
transact a large amount of business daily, while the 
streets are filled with bustling, hurrying throngs com- 
prised of Chinese and representatives of almost every 
nation. 

We sailed up the river with a strong flood-tide, and 



LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 219 

the " Danube " rounded to off the American quarter of 
the city, letting go her anchor one hundred and thirty- 
two days from New York. Shortly after anchoring, the 
tide, running very strong, caused the anchor chain to 
stretch out a long way ahead as taut as a harp-string. 
A large cargo-boat, laden, and under sail, attempted to 
cross our bow, but the tide proving too strong, she took 
the chain amidships. In an instant she capsized, her 
cargo of bales and boxes floating off, with her crew, up 
the stream! The river was full of boats and sampans 
belonging to the shipping, and the boatmen made a 
grand rush for the bales and boxes (loot), but not an 
effort from one to rescue the drowning men in the river. 
Our crew saved the big steering oar of the cargo-boat, 
and rescued one poor fellow who clung to our chain, getting 
him on deck, where he stood shivering, the picture of 
woe, and I ordered " Sam/' the sampan boatman, who 
had been one of the foremost in the race for loot, to take 
my involuntary passenger ashore with his steering oar. 

This " Sam " did unwillingly, and on returning I 
noticed he still had the big steering oar, which he was 
getting on board. 

" What are you doing with that oar, Sam? " I asked. 

" Oh, that allee light, Cappee. Oar payee him passage 
ashore." 

Thinking it a good opportunity to read " Sam " a 
moral lesson I said: 

" You scamp, why did you not save those drowning 
brothers of yours, instead of stealing all you could lay 
your hands on? " 

" Oh'ee, Cappee, can catchee one piecee box, long me, 
no time catchee China-man, no hab time, one, two, 
China-man drowned, no matter, more lice (rice) for 
China-man live." 



220 OCEAN LIFE 

My moral lesson was lost on " Sam " and I said no 
more. 

A great river trade is carried on by steamers, mostly 
owned by American and English houses, trading between 
Shanghai and Han-keou, which had only been open to 
foreigners but a short time. Hauling in to the com- 
pany's wharf to discharge our coal instead of into lighters, 
we were brought into contact with the land, and sub- 
jected to the poisonous miasma of the river's banks. 

Until now my wife had most thoroughly enjoyed the 
sea life, her health was excellent, and she looked forward 
to the continuation of the voyage with a great deal of 
pleasure, but it was not to be. 

Cholera, that dread scourge of the East, was raging at 
Shanghai, sweeping off hundreds daily, and in less than 
a week after arrival she was stricken down. 

Everything was done, but, although she got over the 
disease, she had not strength to rally, and the sixth day 
she breathed her last, called home. 

Her remains, after being embalmed, were sent home 
on the ship " Gamecock," Captain Clement Jayne, and 
interred at Marblehead. 

After my wife's death I passed a large part of my time 
with my old friend and captain Edward Meacom, — 
formerly of the ship " Brutus," — on board his ship the 
" Mermaid," while the coal having been discharged, a 
cargo of cotton was laden for Hongkong. 

While at Shanghai I saw the " Ariel," the first ship I 
sailed in, serving as a hulk for storing opium, and except 
for the lack of her spars, she looked the same, bringing 
back memories of bygone days. 

With a river pilot, the " Danube " took her departure 
from Shanghai, towing to Woosung. 



CHAPTER XXI 
1862 - 1863 

FLYING THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS. — IN SIGHT DAILY 
OF " MOUNTAIN WAVE " FROM MANILA TO MADAGASCAR. 

FAREWELL TO OLD CAPE HORN. — SAN FRANCISCO 

AFTER FOURTEEN YEARS 

To the northern end of Formosa the monsoon was 
light, but after dying away nearly calm, came out from 
N. N. E. in a furious squall, settling into a fresh gale, 
and sending the " Danube " through the Formosa Straits 
flying, under her two lower topsails. The night was dark 
as Erebus, and although a sharp lookout for Chinese 
fishing-boats was kept, it would have been impossible to 
have seen them, and in the event of meeting any, it 
would have been a case of " hardest fend off." The 
following morning being thick with fog, no land could be 
seen, but on its clearing at noon our course was shaped 
for the Lye-ee Moon Channel, the eastern entrance to 
the port of Hongkong. 

Coming to anchor off the town of Victoria, the ship 
was at once surrounded by sampans containing artisans 
and washerwomen, all anxious to secure the ship's trade. 

I was ordered by the consignee to discharge at once. 

Hongkong, an island near the Canton River, was ceded 
to Great Britain in 1841, and with Kowluen on the oppo- 
site mainland, ceded in 1861, forms the British Crown 

221 



222 OCEAN LIFE 

Colony. Its area is twenty-nine square miles, and it is 
the centre of an extensive trade, largely through Hong- 
kong, in Chinese silk and tea. Of the population of 
about 222,000, nine thousand of whom are white, about 
137,000 are in Victoria, the capital. 

A large number of craft of almost all nationalities 
lying at anchor in the harbor, included many junks, 
steamers, and men-of-war, and the bands of the latter, 
playing each afternoon about sunset, made the harbor 
very lively. From the top of the hill overlooking the 
town and harbor, the view is fine. The ships at that 
distance looked like toy boats. 

The " Romance of the Seas," one of the famous clip- 
pers of the '50's, that lay loaded ready for sea, appeared, 
as one looked down on her from that height, like a beauti- 
ful yacht. This was her last trip. She was lost at sea 
with all hands. 

While seated in the house of Messrs. Russell & Sturgis, 
our consignees, one forenoon, reading the latest home 
news, every one was suddenly startled by the entrance of 
a clerk, who announced that the P. & O. (Peninsular and 
Oriental) Company's steamer that had sailed early that 
morning was returning through the Lema Channel, with 
her signal set, " I am on fire! " 

As she had chests of opium in her forehold, valued at 
$3,000,000, the excitement was intense, all leaving for 
the water front to see her enter the harbor, where she was 
beached on the Kowluen shore. She was scuttled by 
the men-of-war boats firing pointblank shots at her 
between wind and water, the fire being gradually extin- 
guished, and although the damage was considerable, 
the opium was untouched. 

Our cotton out and ship ballasted, the " Danube " 
sailed from Hongkong, seeking a freight, and my intention 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 223 

when leaving was to run around to Calcutta, touching at 
Singapore, in hopes of getting a good freight to the 
United States, or some port in Europe, but fairly out- 
side, the " Danube's " course was shaped for Manila to 
try the market. 

The fifth day out we passed the island of Corregidor 
at the entrance, and sailing up Manila Bay, dropped 
anchor off the city of Manila, the capital of the Philippine 
Islands, since made famous by the war with Spain. 

The old city of Manila, situated on the western coast 
of the island of Luzon, where the Pasig River joins 
Manila Bay, six hundred and twenty-five miles from 
Hongkong, was founded by Spaniards in 1571, and was 
comparatively small. It was surrounded by a wall, and 
contained an old cathedral of the 17th century and 
other churches, the archbishop's palace, monasteries, 
convents, the governor's palace, and numerous govern- 
ment buildings. Binondo, the great commercial center, 
lies on the north bank of the Pasig; the retail trade was 
then in the hands of the Chinese, but the import and 
export trade was controlled by foreigners. In the native 
part, the houses of the Malays were mostly thatched 
huts, and a fire breaking out one night swept off some 
1,500 in two or three hours, running from one house to 
another, which burned like tinder. 

The ship was consigned to the house of Russell & Stur- 
gis, of which Mr. Green (later the husband of Mrs. Hetty 
Green) was managing head, and I was offered a freight 
for Boston that footed up rising $22,000 in gold. There 
were no unchartered vessels in port, but knowing several 
were due, I accepted the offer, and the " Danube " was 
speedily made ready for loading. 

Manila at this season (winter months) was charming. 
Residents and visitors alike appreciated the afternoon 



224 OCEAN LIFE 

drives to Lunetta Park to listen to the exquisite music 
of the band and enjoy the cool breezes. The hotels were 
very poor, and it was more comfortable on shipboard, 
but I went on shore daily, returning at night. 

The American merchant ships in port, besides the 
" Danube/' were the " Mountain Wave," the " Galatea " 
and the " Cyclone; " also the " Wabash " an American 
war-ship. We now being homeward bound, and having 
far more provisions than could be used on the passage, 
I sold the surplus at good prices, and later made a few 
investments that paid well. 

Cigars, at this time, were very cheap in Manila; the 
No. 1's were a very fine quality, costing but twelve dollars 
per thousand, packed and put on board, while a smaller 
cigar, No. 2's, only cost eight dollars. Thinking these 
figures could not again be duplicated, and being at that 
time an ardent lover of the weed, I purchased some 
thirty thousand, twenty thousand of them being No. 2's, 
the remainder No. l's, and afterwards disposed of the same 
in Boston at seventy and thirty dollars per thousand, 
besides keeping five thousand for my own use. 

I purchased some ten or twelve " pieces " of pina 
cloth, containing eighteen yards to the " piece," made 
from the fibre of the pineapple. This product of the fertile 
Philippines is cultivated principally for this fibre, which 
is woven into a most beautiful fabric for ladies' wear, 
extensively manufactured in Manila. It is of various 
colors, fine and delicate, but durable, just the material 
for the heated summer months. Eighteen yards was 
considered the proper quantity for a dress pattern. 

In addition to these goods, I had, just before sailing 
from Shanghai, taken off the hands of one of the clerks 
of Russell & Sturgis, a complete invoice of Japanese 
curios, bric-a-brac, with two nests of fine camphor trunks. 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 225 

He had purchased them to take home with him, but his 
plans being changed to remain in Shanghai for an indefinite 
period, he offered me the entire lot at what he paid for 
them, a very low figure. 

Previous to our sailing from New York, my aunt, wife 
of the owner at that time, Mr. Thomas Appleton of 
Marblehead, had asked me, if I saw anything pretty for 
house ornamentation, to get it for her, and this I con- 
sidered a rare opportunity. Having no use for any of 
them now, myself, I gave her the lot on my arrival home, 
and they were highly appreciated. The pina cloth made 
up into nice summer dresses for the three girls, members 
of a most charming family with whom I passed many 
pleasant days when home from my voyages. 

We sailed from Manila in company with the ship 
" Mountain Wave " and passed down the China Sea 
together, being in sight of each other daily all through 
the Indian Ocean until we were up with the south end of 
Madagascar. The wind then coming out ahead, we parted 
company, each going off on separate tacks, and we did 
not again fall in with each other. It was the most equal 
sailing I ever knew, on the part of two ships, for such a 
length of time and for so long a distance. The " Mountain 
Wave," however, arrived a week ahead of the " Danube." 

Around the Cape of Good Hope, past St. Helena, 
Ascension Island, Fernando Norohna, and across the 
line (equator) the " Danube " steadily held her course, 
each night seeing us " a day's march (or sail) nearer 
home." Nothing of note outside the regular daily ship's 
work occurring from the time of leaving the Cape till we 
reached the equator, — not a sail had been sighted, — 
we almost began to feel as though we were alone on the 
waste of waters, but now, again in the north Atlantic, 
a sharp lookout was kept for steamers and sailing craft 



226 OCEAN LIFE 

of suspicious appearance. All knew Semmes in the 
" Alabama " was abroad in these waters, seeking whom 
he could gather in, and the feeling that any day or 
hour we might run across him caused an uneasiness that 
was felt throughout the ship, but our fears were ground- 



Sighting few vessels and speaking none, the " Danube " 
passed Bermuda and the Gulf Stream, on the northern 
edge of which we experienced light southerly airs and 
foggy weather. Soundings indicated that we were to 
the southward and westward of Nantucket, and feeling 
our way, with the lead, around the great shoal, the fog 
being very dense, we finally struck channel soundings, 
when fanning along, with light southerly breezes, the 
" Danube " crept past Chatham on the elbow of Cape 
Cod, the Nauset three lights, the high sand-banks of the 
cape highlands, seeing nothing, but keeping the fog-horn 
sounding as a warning to other vessels, until we were 
north of the Highland Light with the bay open, when, 
the fog lifting, the most welcome sight of the lighthouse 
and sand-dunes of old Cape Cod came into view. Taking 
a pilot on board when half-way up the bay, we obtained 
all the news of the war, with the information that Mr. 
Horace Broughton, my first officer, had been drafted, and 
was liable to serve his country either in the army or navy, 
unless he paid $300 for a substitute. A tugboat which we 
took outside the light towed the ship up the harbor, 
docking at East Boston, one hundred and thirty days 
from Manila. 

Our freight of $22,000, payable in gold, when gold was 
at a premium of two hundred and forty, caused the 
owners to smile and congratulate themselves. 

The owners at that time were James Nesmith and 
Sons of New York, to whom, I had been informed by a 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 227 

letter from my uncle Mr. Appleton on my arrival at 
Shanghai, he had made over the ship. In future I was to 
take my instructions from them. 

Discharging was at once commenced, and a week 
later saw the " Danube " in the market for a freight. 

I was stopping at Marblehead, visiting the ship at 
Boston daily, and the time passed pleasantly. The war 
was the all-engrossing topic of the day, enlisting was 
constantly going on, and troops were leaving for the front 
almost daily. There was martial music in the air at 
almost every turn, while returning sick and disabled 
soldiers, worn down by the hardships and privations of 
the battlefields, were sad sights to witness, but there was 
no shrinking, no holding back among the loyal sons of 
the North. All did their duty, and a united country 
to-day is the result of their efforts. 

During our six weeks' stay in port, Mr. Broughton, 
my first officer, concluded to put a substitute in the army, 
and embarked upon the matrimonial sea, taking for his 
wife a most estimable young lady of Marblehead. 

Chartering the ship to load in Winsor's Line for San 
Francisco with general cargo, the " Danube " was laid 
on the berth for loading, and in thirty days was again 
ready for sea. With the crew on board the ship we hauled 
into the stream, and coming to an anchor, we took on 
board some five hundred kegs of gunpowder, which were 
stowed in the main hatch, after which the ship was ready 
for sea, and anchor weighed, we proceeded down the 
harbor. Dropping the pilot outside of Boston Light, we 
gave a farewell wave of the hand to the pilot-boat, and 
the " Danube," with all her canvas spread to a brisk 
westerly breeze, rounded the Highland Light, and passing 
out South Channel, again entered upon her 15,000 mile 
run. 



228 OCEAN LIFE 

I soon found the " Danube " was very logy and dull at 
sailing. She had taken in large quantities of iron that 
brought her very low in the water, and she seemed to 
have lost the springy feeling she had on her homeward 
voyage from Manila, but there was now no help for it, 
and it soon became apparent that the passage to San 
Francisco would be a long one, and two stiff southeasters 
before reaching the trade wind belt did not help matters. 
The trade winds were very light, and losing them entirely 
in the latitude of 8° north, we experienced nothing but 
light airs, squalls and calms, to the latitude of 2° north, 
where we took the S. E. trades, which were fairly strong, 
while gales with thunder and lightning were encountered 
off the River Plate (Rio de la Plata), and running down 
the Patagonian coast the ship was put in complete order 
to meet heavy weather off Cape Horn. Passing between 
the Falklands and the coast, we sighted the east end of 
Staten Land, but before we had rounded it and the 
" Danube " was pointed for Cape Horn, a howling gale 
from the W. S. W. struck us, accompanied with snow 
and sleet, and heaving to under a lower main topsail 
and foretopmast staysail, the ship buffeted the big Cape 
Horn seas for a week, when a favorable slant of wind 
enabled the ship to recover her lost ground; but it was 
short-lived, — gale succeeded gale, in rapid succession, 
and it was thirty days from the time of passing Staten 
Land ere we had gained enough westing to bear away 
north, but the change came at last. After blowing heavily 
from N. W. for several days, it veered into south-south- 
west. 

Keeping her off to the north'ard and west'ard, under 
two lower topsails and reefed foresail, until the sea went 
down a little, the " Danube " made good progress towards 
better weather, while the wind holding steady from 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 229 

the southward, each day showed a marked change. It 
had been a long, hard experience off the stormy Cape, 
but we could congratulate ourselves on the ship sustaining 
no damage under all the heavy buffeting she had under- 
gone in the past month. 

Gradually our feathered companions, the albatross, the 
Cape pigeon, and " Mother Carey's chickens," that had 
kept us company around the Cape, having seen us safely 
through the most trying part of our passage, dropped 
off, as though feeling their escort was no longer needed 
and they could now bid us good-by. 

The change to smooth seas and bright pleasant weather 
was rapid, and sail was gradually increased until the 
" Danube " was again covered with canvas and fast 
leaving Cape Horn in the background. 

After being knocked about for four or five weeks in 
the high latitudes of the Cape, one is in the mood to enjoy 
and appreciate the delightful sailing through the trade 
winds of the south Pacific. 

Crossing the equator, and taking the trades in the 
north Pacific, the " Danube " arrived off the heads of 
San Francisco, where taking a pilot on board, again I 
entered the bay, after an absence of nearly fourteen years. 

What changes had occurred in that time! How vividly 
were the scenes and incidents recalled that passed in 
review before my mind's eye in connection with the 
fourteen years since I sailed out by these heads, as one 
of the crew of the barque " Zingari " bound for Val- 
paraiso! What changes, since the early days, before 
California was admitted into the glorious sisterhood of 
States, when Oregon was a wilderness, and Portland, 
the capital, a city only in name! Now, under the march 
of progress, the country was well settled, with thriving 
towns, villages, and smiling farms. Portland, still the 



230 OCEAN LIFE 

chief city, regularly laid out, had a large, bustling popula- 
tion, and a big steamship trade with San Francisco, 
and elsewhere. 

San Francisco! The ship hauled in at the wharf at 
Clark's Point for discharging, but I should never have 
recognized it as the spot I landed at fourteen years 
before. Now there were wharves, with ships discharging 
their cargoes, a fine street leading over the hill lined 
with dwellings and stores, — no trace left of the shanty 
or " hotel " with " Delmonico's " over the entrance, or 
Mr. Benjamin Dixey's restaurant. Fine hotels and resi- 
dences, big storehouses, and piers for shipping, streets 
and avenues handsomely laid out and thronged with busy 
multitudes, all told of the advancement made, and the 
growth of the " City of the Golden Gate," since the 
early days of '50. 

On our way up the bay, the stevedore's boat pulled 
alongside, bringing the mail, and among the letters was 
one from the New York owners, containing a charter to 
proceed from San Francisco to Baker's Island and load 
guano for the North Sea, taking orders at Falmouth, 
England. 

Consigning to the house of Charles W. Brooks & Co., 
Mr. Frank Ladd being the junior partner, we commenced 
the discharge of the cargo, which came out in good order, 
having sustained no damage. 

I have, in a previous chapter, spoken of the large 
variety of cockroaches on board the ship " Brutus," 
Calcutta trader. Across the docks, opposite the " Danube," 
lay the ship " Guiding Star," Captain Small, just out 
from Boston, where she had discharged a Calcutta cargo. 
This ship was literally alive with roaches, but at the time 
I did not know it. 

In the evening I went on board to make Captain Small 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 231 

a social call, and when, after passing a very pleasant hour, 
he invited me to spend the night with him, I accepted, 
and he gave me his stateroom, taking a spare room for 
himself. 

Retiring about eleven o'clock, and pulling off my 
boots, I disrobed and turned in, sleeping soundly until 
morning, when I arose, and proceeding to dress, found 
nothing left of my boots but the soles and straps. All 
outside of these resembled a piece of brown tissue paper 
perforated with tiny holes. On asking Captain Small 
about it, he explained that he meant to have told me to 
put everything, including my boots, in the basket at the 
head of the bed, but he forgot it! The cockroaches had 
eaten them in the night, and the captain's forgetfulness 
cost me a new pair of boots. However, he was good 
enough to loan me a pair to put on. 

The " Guiding Star's " cargo consisted largely of cases 
of boots and shoes, also carriages. The damage to these 
goods was, I understood, upwards of a hundred thousand 
dollars. As the cases were hoisted out of her hold and on 
to the dock, crowds of people gathered to look at the 
destruction, while the press teemed with the most extrava- 
gant nonsense regarding the pest, one paper stating that 
on taking out the large guns destined for Mare Island 
Navy Yard, it was found that the cockroaches had 
increased the bores from a half to three quarters of an 
inch in diameter. The damage was bad enough, and how 
it was settled I never knew. 

Earthquakes were of frequent occurrence during our 
stay, some severe shocks being experienced, but no 
great amount of damage was done outside of giving the 
residents a scare. 

Previous to my arrival home from Manila, I had been 
very much troubled with rheumatism, which had increased 



232 OCEAN LIFE 

on the passage out, until now it became difficult to exer- 
cise my limbs or get my boots on in the morning. I 
consulted a specialist on rheumatism, and he was of the 
opinion that he could cure me, but it would take two and 
perhaps three months. Meanwhile I would have to go 
under special treatment, which, while not confining me 
to the house, would interfere with my going to sea. My 
consignees, knowing my physician well, advised me to 
stop and continue the treatment, assuring me he was 
very successful in cases like mine, so having communicated 
with the owners and obtained their sanction, the cargo 
being out and ship ballasted, I turned the command of 
the " Danube " over to my first officer, Mr. Broughton, 
who had been with me three years, and accompanying 
the ship outside the heads, with a hearty handshake, 
and wishing him a safe and prosperous voyage, I returned 
to San Francisco on the towboat. I was sorry to leave" 
the ship, but I felt that in my state of health the voyage 
would probably use me up, and as the treatment was 
benefiting me, I made up my mind it would be better to 
stop and go through with it, a course I have never since 
regretted, for every particle of the disease was eradicated 
from my system, and I have never been troubled with it 
to any great extent since. 

To be in San Francisco without a command was a 
novel experience for me, but I was not long unemployed. 
The " Eagle Wing," a sixteen-hundred-ton clipper ship, 
arrived in charge of the mate, Captain Linnell having 
been killed on the passage out, off the River Plate (Rio 
de la Plata) in a terrible manner. 

The ship, while running free, was suddenly taken aback 
in a heavy squall, and the boom tackle parting, the heavy 
spanker-boom swept across the quarter-deck, the sheet 
catching Captain Linnell, and throwing him against the 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 233 

wheel, driving the spoke handles into his body, death 
resulting very shortly therefrom. For some reason, my 
consignees, who were friends of the owners of the ship, 
were not satisfied with the conduct of the mate, then in 
command, but could do nothing without a power of 
attorney from the owners. This they obtained, and 
sending for me, I was placed in command of the " Eagle 
Wing," to attend to her business until a captain could 
be sent out from New York. I stated to Messrs. Brooks 
& Co. that while I could attend to the ship's business in 
port, which would not interfere with my medical treat- 
ment, I would not go to sea in her, having just left my own 
ship. This was all settled, and they were to pay me 
$200 per month, gold, and my board at the Russ 
House. 

My first act, after taking charge, was to give the mate 
and cook their discharge, for the reason that they were 
caught selling the ship's stores and sails, which I traced 
and was fortunate in recovering from the parties to 
whom they were sold. I retained the carpenter, who 
seemed an honest fellow; in fact, it was through him I first 
obtained my information of the rascality of the others. 

Employing a good, reliable ship-keeper, I placed him 
on board, after the cargo was out, and taking in six 
hundred tons of ballast to keep her on her feet, I had her 
anchored in the stream to await the arrival of Captain 
George B. Kellum from New York. 

I had now plenty of leisure, and one morning, I went 
with a party, — four making up our number, two city 
merchants, Captain Pendelton and myself, — for a drive 
to some medical springs, a health resort about twenty- 
five miles south of the city. We left at 6 a. m., seated in 
an open carriage, behind a spanking pair of grays. The 
drive in the open air, which was as bracing and exhilarat- 



234 OCEAN LIFE 

ing as champagne, through a beautiful country, over good 
roads, was one long to be remembered. I had often 
heard people speak of the glorious climate of California, 
but I had never realized fully, until that morning, what 
it meant. 

Arriving at the Springs between nine and ten o'clock, 
breakfast was ordered, and we impatiently awaited its 
preparation, in the meanwhile strolling about the grounds, 
which were prettily laid out, and taking in long draughts 
of the purest air. 

When breakfast was announced we filed into a cozy 
room decked with flowers, the open windows allowing 
the fresh air laden with the fragrance of the woods to 
sweep through. The table, with its snowy linen and silver 
service, was spread with the most tempting repast of 
fruit, fresh eggs and crisp bacon, tender steak done to a 
turn, and the crowning dish a large platter of fresh moun- 
tain trout, that, as the Irishman said, " were but a few 
hours before walking around their real estate, little think- 
ing of the invitation they would receive to join four 
gentlemen at breakfast this morning! " 

With keen appetites sharpened by the morning drive, 
we did ample justice to the bountiful spread, and at noon, 
leaving the Springs, and driving leisurely back to the 
city, we arrived in time for dinner at six, it being voted 
by all the most enjoyable trip of the season. 

Messrs. Brooks and Ladd, upon whom I called daily, 
were engaged in a large sugar trade with the Sandwich 
Islands (Hawaii). Mr. Ladd had told me he had lived 
in Honolulu, and I asked him if he ever knew one Field, 
who was a shipmate of mine and left the ship at Honolulu, 
in '48, to go into the house of Charles Brewer & Co., 
merchants. " What was his first name? " he asked. 

" Barnum," I replied, " Barnum W, Field." 



THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 235 

" Why, yes," he answered, " I was brought up in his 
counting-room." 

He then gave me a sketch of the career, to date, of 
Mr. Field, or " Barney " as we designated him on the 
" Tsar." He said Field went to California for Messrs. 
Brewer & Co. in the '50's and made a good deal of money 
for his house; later he went into business for himself in 
Honolulu, and Ladd had gone into his counting-room. 
Shortly after this Field left the island, and was then in 
New York, engaged in the western produce business on 
Broadway. 

• This information I was glad to get, as I had a desire 
to know what had become of him and how he had pros- 
pered. 

The " Eagle Wing " was chartered to load for New 
York, and Captain Kellum having arrived, I turned over 
the command to him. Over two months had now elapsed, 
and I was feeling so much better I was anxious to be off, 
and two weeks later I was told by my doctor, giving me 
advice as to diet, etc., that it was safe for me to leave. 



CHAPTER XXII 

1863 - 1864 

THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63. — PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIPS. — 
ACAPULCO. — ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. — SUPERCARGO TO 



Among my friends whom I bade good-by were a number 
of pilots. I had been of some service to them during my 
stay in port. An attempt had been made to do away 
with the pilot-boats, and have the pilots only on the tow- 
boats. These, of course, always carrying a pilot, would 
enable the captain to have his ship towed to sea in one 
tide, and it not being compulsory to take another pilot 
other than the one on the towboat, the regular pilotage 
outward would be saved. 

This would enable the ship to get to sea, not only 
quickly, but cheaply, as the towing rates were not high, 
being kept down by the pilots, who were independent 
of the Towboat Association. This, at first glance, seemed 
a good thing for the shipping, but it would have operated 
disastrously for the pilot service, as without the ships to 
take to sea, they would have to give up their boats and 
go out of business, throwing the whole pilotage business 
into the hands of the towboat companies, who, I argued, 
would naturally put up their rates, and the shipping 
would be at their mercy. In short, it would establish 
a complete monopoly of the pilot and towage systems. 

236 



THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 237 

This I worked against in favor of the pilot-boat system, 
taking the ground that it was entering a port a pilot was 
most needed, and that when a captain had brought his 
ship inside the Farralones from off a long passage, it 
blowing hard perhaps, and the land shrouded in thick 
fog, with the bar breaking a feather white, and a rock- 
ribbed coast close aboard, he felt a deal more comfortable 
with a pilot on board, and a pilot-boat would lie off under 
the islands, looking for him in bad weather, — as well as 
bright sunshine, — when no towboat was going to cross 
the bar and hunt around in the fog for his ship. He 
could do the best he could, and look after himself until 
the weather cleared, when, if he were near enough, a 
boat might run out and tow him to port. The whole 
matter was gone over and argued, pro and con, not only 
among the pilots, but by the captains in port. In the 
end the pilots came out ahead, and appreciating the part 
I had taken in the controversy, they presented me with 
a beautiful cane appropriately inscribed. It was of 
Mexican wood, dark, similar to rosewood, and a fine speci- 
men of gold quartz was inserted in the head. This I 
treasure as a reminder of my last visit to San Francisco, 
nearly forty-four years ago, and the pleasant associations 
formed during my stay. 

I engaged passage on the Pacific Mail Steamship " Con- 
stitution," for New York via Panama, and we steamed 
out of San Francisco Bay with a large passenger list, — 
between nine hundred and a thousand. There was 
ample accommodation on the big " Constitution," but 
with the much smaller boat on the Atlantic side, it was 
a problem where they would all be stowed. But the 
problem did not seem to disturb any one. We had a 
pleasant run down the coast, touching a few hours at 
Acapulco, Mexico, to land mails and passengers, during 



238 OCEAN LITE 

which time those of the through passengers who wished 
could go ashore, but it was so much pleasanter on board 
under the awnings than wandering around on shore in 
the hot sun, few availed themselves of the opportunity, 
and the whistle soon calling aboard all stragglers, with 
her prow pointing seaward, the " Constitution " bade 
good-by to Acapulco, while the gong sounded for dinner. 

Commodore Watkins and his chief executive, Captain 
Caverly, were two of the most efficient officers in the 
service, genial and courteous to their passengers. The 
discipline of the ship was perfect, every officer and every 
man instantly at his station, at fire signals or emergency 
calls. One was made to feel an unusual sense of security 
on a steamship in charge of such men, and, as the result 
of close observation, I offer this slight tribute to their 
worth. 

Arriving at Panama, we were transferred to the cars 
of the Panama Railroad Company, which after a four 
hours' ride, brought us to Aspinwall (Colon), where we 
embarked on the steamer " North Star n for New York. 
Once on board, the change was quickly noticed between 
the two boats. Staterooms were packed to the limit, 
while the remainder of the passengers slept on tables and 
under tables, on the cabin deck, in short anywhere they 
could find a resting-place without being trampled upon. 

However, there was, generally speaking, no grumbling, 
all accepting the situation, and as long as the larder 
held out and a good table was set, everything was har- 
monious. Bright, pleasant weather and a smooth sea 
prevailed the entire passage. 

A funny incident occurred which caused a great deal 
of amusement to those knowing the secret. The bar on 
the boat was not overstocked, and the bartender, not 
anticipating such a rush, had a scant supply of liquors, 



THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 239 

while two-thirds of the crowd were extremely bibulous. 
As a consequence the stock was quickly reduced until but 
one bottle of brandy remained. This bottle did service 
for nearly three days, and must have supplied some 
hundred and fifty to two hundred passengers with drinks 
at two bits (25 cents) each. 

The bartender hated to close down, and as fast as a 
drink was called for it was replaced by the same amount 
of colored water. It grew to be comical to see a passenger 
walk up and call for a glass of brandy and the bottle 
passed out, and in five minutes one or two more saunter 
up and call for whiskey and the same bottle handed out. 
This was repeated until not the least odor of any kind of 
liquor remained. A man would deposit a quarter, fill 
his glass brimming full and drink it off, then turn away 
with a look of disgust, muttering something about the 
" blarsted " weakness of the spirits. It was of no use, 
though; twenty-four hours before arriving the barkeeper 
took down his sign and closed up. For nearly three days 
that could truly have been called a temperance bar. 

On arrival and hauling in at the pier in New York, 
the passengers quickly scattered. 

Walking up Broadway, my eye encountered a large 
sign reading " Barnum W. Field, Western Produce.' 7 I 
crossed quickly, and entering the store, which was large 
and well-filled, I walked to the rear, and asked one of the 
many clerks employed, if Mr. Field was in. 

" Yes, but he is engaged for the moment," was the 
reply. " Shall I take your name? " 

While we were talking, two gentlemen emerged from 
the private office and passed to the forward end of the 
store. 

" Which is Mr. Field? " I asked. " The tall, large man," 
was the answer. Following and standing near them until 



240 OCEAN LIFE 

the gentleman turned to go, I stepped up, and holding out 
my hand, said, " Good morning, Barney." 

" You have the advantage of me," he said, looking 
sharply at me, and taking my hand. " Your face has a 
familiar look, but I can't place you." 

" Yet we were shipmates and chums," I laughed. 

" Where? " said he. 

" On the ship ' Tsar/ " I replied. 

A look of surprise crossed his features, and calling my 
name, he heartily shook hands, and invited me into his 
private office, where we sat an hour or more, comparing 
notes since the time we had left the ship in Honolulu, 
in '48; then bidding him good-by, and promising to see 
him when again in New York, I drove to — where the 
Grand Central Station is now, and took the train for 
Boston. 

It had now been three years since the breaking out of 
the Civil War, and the end was not yet. American ship- 
ping, aside from our navy, was still at a discount, with 
very little moving, except under a foreign flag. 

Mr. George Deshon asked me, one day when I had 
called into Mr. Deshon's office on Doane Street, if I would 
take a trip to the Bahamas, and when I inquired the 
nature of the business, and what he wished of me, he 
explained the situation. Owing to the war, Nassau had 
become the headquarters of the blockade runners, and 
there was a great deal of money afloat among the inhab- 
itants of the islands, chiefly a colored population. He 
believed that a good business could be done by trading, 
and selling to the blacks a miscellaneous cargo, made up 
of articles adapted to their needs, that could be disposed 
of at a great profit, adding that he and his brother had 
bought a schooner and were going to load her. He had 
a list of the cargo he was buying made and shown to me, 



THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 241 

and said he wanted a man to command her, whom he knew 
and in whom he could place confidence; to take entire 
charge and management not only of the schooner but 
of the cargo, and dispose of the latter among the darkies 
at the islands; also, to purchase a return cargo of fruit, 
or anything I thought would pay. He offered me satis- 
factory compensation, and I accepted the position, at 
once taking charge of the schooner lying at India Wharf, 
which I found to be the old fishing-schooner " Eliza- 
beth," formerly of Marblehead, a staunch old craft, not- 
withstanding her age. Her cabin accommodations had 
been enlarged, all hands living aft, while the foVsle, or 
forepeak, had been thrown into the hold. Sails and 
rigging were in good order, being comparatively new. 
She was not a fast sailer, but a fine sea-boat, as easy in 
a gale, hove to, as an old shoe. 

On the following day the cargo began to come alongside, 
and I remained on the dock to receive and receipt for it. 
While thus engaged a party of seven men strolled down 
the wharf, looking at the different craft. Well knowing 
them to be seafaring men, there yet was something 
about them different from the foVsle " Jack " that one 
sees about wharves and along the water front. While 
I was watching them, trying to size them up, they finally 
stopped alongside the schooner, looking at her cargo 
of bales and boxes, and one of them, approaching me, 
asked where she was bound. 

" To the Bahamas," I answered. 

" Where? " he again asked. 

" To the Bahama Islands, West Indies," I replied. 

" Going to sail quickly? " 

" As soon as loaded." 

" Got your crew? " 

" Not yet." 



242 OCEAN LIFE 

" Can we go on board and look her over? " 

" Certainly," I said. 

Presently he returned, and said they would all like to 
ship, asking what wages I was paying. " Fifty dollars 
per month, and sixty dollars to mate and cook," was the 
answer. This was satisfactory, and settling on one for 
mate and one for cook amongst themselves, they asked me 
if I would accept them as such. I told them I would if 
they knew their business. There was a mystery about 
them, but I was satisfied their motive in shipping was 
straight, and they were all able-bodied, bright, intelligent 
men, just what I wanted for the cruise, so giving them a 
note to the shipping-master, they were enrolled by him 
on the articles of the good schooner " Elizabeth " for a 
voyage to the Bahamas and a market, for a term not 
exceeding nine months. Returning to the schooner, 
they went to work, took in and stowed her cargo, got 
stores aboard, bent sails, filled water, and got the vessel 
ready for sea without my having to employ a man outside 
my crew. 

We sailed with a fine, strong, westerly wind, having 
made arrangements with Mr. George Deshon to meet me 
at Harbor Island, a small island that makes the harbor 
of Eleuthera, my first port of call. 

After getting outside Boston Light, we had occasion 
to jibe ship, and I noted the mate, or first hand, with the 
crew, knew much more about a schooner and her working 
than I did, for I was accustomed to square-riggers! No 
orders were necessary except to tell the mate what I 
wanted done, every man knowing what was required 
beforehand. 

The wind hauling to the southward, and blowing a 
stiff gale, we hove to on the southeast part of Georges 
Bank, and putting the wheel alee in the becket, with one 



THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 243 

on deck for the lookout, all hands settled down to enjoy 
themselves in the cabin, where it was warm and com- 
fortable. Green, my first hand, a big fellow from Castine, 
Maine, got out his fiddle, and being a good performer, 
made everything lively for a couple of hours. 

It all came out that evening, — who my crew were. 
They were, every one of them, skippers of coasting 
schooners who had been drafted into the army, and 
having no desire to serve and no wish to hire or money 
to pay a substitute, they concluded to get out of the 
country in a body, and stay out until the war was over, 
and so came to Boston, and seeing an opportunity to 
get a berth with me for five or six months with good 
pay, had shipped on the " Elizabeth." Although not 
wishing to serve in the army, they were brim full of 
patriotism, as will be seen later on. Altogether, they 
were a fine set of men, sober, industrious, implicitly 
obedient to orders, honest; feeling, each one, a respon- 
sibility to make the trading trip a success. Night or day 
they were always ready for a call, and not a word of 
grumbling. 

The gale moderating, and wind hauling in the right 
quarter, the " Elizabeth " soon made Abaco, the most 
northern of the Bahama group, and passing Green Turtle 
Key and Abaco Light, we shortly sighted Harbor Island. 

A fine landmark for the entrance on the east side was 
a row of cocoanut palms all inclined one way. A tongue 
of land overlapping the entrance to the harbor, it was not 
easy to distinguish unless close in, but the trees formed a 
capital guide to the entrance. There is another entrance 
on the north side through the reef. About all these 
islands, like those of the Pacific, are surrounded by a 
coral reef, with passages through in various places. 
Running down inshore, two of the islanders came off, 



244 OCEAN LIFE 

one of whom piloted us safely into the harbor, where we 
dropped anchor and lay as though in a mill-pond. 

The Bahama Islands, on the verge of the belt of trade 
winds, have the most delightful climate for a winter 
resort, neither too hot, nor too cold. 

Nassau, on Providence Island, the capital, has fine 
hotel accommodations for the visitor wishing to escape 
the rigors of a northern winter, and one of the most 
enjoyable trips during his stay is a visit to the outlying 
islands and keys, the inhabitants of which are of the most 
sociable class, doing everything to make the visitor's 
time pass pleasantly. They are mostly colored, with a 
large sprinkling of whites. 

As the sailing on these trips is all inside the keys and 
reefs, the water is smooth and there is no fear of sea- 
sickness while passing over reefs, which, seen through the 
clear water, with their wealth of sponges and sea-fans, 
coral, bright-waving marine foliage and myriads of fish 
of every hue, form a most interesting study for the 
student of life beneath the waves. 

Here I was joined by Mr. George Deshon, who had 
come out by steamer, and had been waiting several days 
for my arrival, and disposing of some of our stock here, 
we ran around to a little settlement called the " Current," 
where we made some sales of furniture and provisions, 
sailing thence to Governor's Harbor and Rock Sound, 
ports of Eleuthera. 



CHAPTER XXIII 
1864 - 1865 

COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS. — SOCIABILITY A PROMOTER 

OF TRADE. EXTRA CARE IN FRUIT TRANSPORTATION. 

— FAMOUS BLOCKADE RUNNERS. — END OF THE WAR 
A BLOW TO NASSAU 

A month, or more, had been occupied in coasting 
along the shores of the various islands and keys, stopping 
at every little settlement to barter, and we had but half 
disposed of our cargo. Sometimes we anchored off the 
beach, as at Cat Island, and went ashore to drum up 
trade, and having landed a lot of whatever we thought 
would be in demand, we held auctions on the beach. 
These occasions would be rare fun for the crew, as Green 
was a capital auctioneer, and the rest of the boys made it 
lively for the colored folks. Frequently, when there had 
been a good trade, and the bidding lively, we would 
announce a dance in the evening at one of their houses, 
for which they were always ready, and Green with his 
fiddle and Thomas with the accordion would open the 
ball. 

This got noised around and helped trade amazingly, 
the populace being always glad to see us. Mr. Deshon 
always enjoyed these occasions, and entered heartily 
into the spirit of them. 

Governor's Harbor, on the west side of Eleuthera, 

245 



246 OCEAN LIFE 

the shipping point for pineapples to the English market, 
was a town of considerable importance. At this time 
there were no steamers engaged in the fruit trade, but a 
beautiful class of clipper schooners, Clyde built, that 
congregated at Governor's Harbor, waiting for their 
cargoes of pines. Only the sugar-loaf pines were carried, 
the scarlet or Spanish not being so much in favor with 
the English people. These pines were carried in the tree 
or shrub, and handled with great care; shrub, stalk and 
pineapples being shipped as growing. It took a great 
deal more room to ship them in this way, but the safe 
carriage of the fruit was insured, and the high price paid 
for pines in the English market warranted the extra 
expense. 

Green turtle were also carried by these fruiters and 
brought a high price. A large corral was kept by the 
agent, who bought all that was brought in, paying regular 
market rates for them. It was enclosed with stakes that 
would hold a great number until time for shipment. 
Turtle of other kinds abounded in these waters; among 
them the loggerhead, an immense fellow, sometimes 
weighing from five hundred to six hundred pounds; also 
the hawksbill, a smaller turtle, prized for its shell. Fre- 
quent excursions were made to the beaches on the ocean 
side, on bright moonlight nights, to watch for, and 
capture turtle. Lying still and watching, we would see 
them emerge from the water and crawl up the beach 
above high-water mark, to lay their eggs, to be hatched 
out by the sun and the warmth of the sand. When well 
up the beach, a rush would be made upon them, and 
before they could turn to the water they would be thrown 
upon their backs, making their escape impossible, as they 
could not turn over on land. Some of the big fellows 
required the united strength of three or four men to turn 



COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 247 

them. Great care had to be taken to prevent their getting 
headed for the water, in which case i4 was almost impos- 
sible to stop them, for if you were in front of them they 
would bite most savagely, and in their rear one would be 
blinded by the shower of sand and small pebbles thrown 
out by their rear flippers. Their eggs are carefully covered 
when they are in the sand, but when the young turtle 
hatch out and make for the water, they have numerous 
enemies who are on the lookout for them, and between 
the birds of the air and the fish in the sea, the turtle 
family have a very hard time of it. Although there may 
be a hundred or more eggs hatched out, not a fifth of the 
brood survive. The eggs are round, about half the size 
of a hen's egg, yellow in appearance, and soft-shelled. 
They are very nice roasted, or made into an omelet. To 
find them in the sand, one goes around with a sharp 
pointed stick, and when a nest is found by punching, 
uncovers and removes the eggs. 

Rock Sound is a deep bay on the southern end of 
Eleuthera, and a town of the same name lies at the 
head of the bay. A quarter of a mile inland is a natural 
curiosity called the " Ocean Hole," a perfectly round 
basin, having a circumference of about 5,000 feet, with 
walls of stone rising from the water perpendicular and 
smooth, to a height of 50 feet. There is only one place 
where one can descend to the water. It is surrounded 
by trees, and is not visible to one approaching it until he 
is close to it. In this basin the tide ebbs and flows and 
the water is as blue as the ocean water outside the reef, 
showing that it must have an ocean outlet. Salt-water 
fish are found in it, and in the centre there is apparently 
no soundings. Articles that have been thrown in have 
been found on the north end of the island, forty-five miles 
distant. 



248 OCEAN LIFE 

One evening we were about leaving Rock Sound, where 
our trade had been very good as well as at Governor's 
Harbor, and all hands went ashore. I was settling up 
business, intending to sail in the morning for a little place 
called the " Cove." Pulling on board just as a coasting 
schooner came to an anchor, we passed her boat with 
the crew pulling ashore, and on hailing them we learnt 
that she was from Nassau. To our inquiry for news of 
the war they replied that " that old scoundrel Lincoln 
had been shot." 

Ordering the boat's head around for shore again, we 
landed with them to get particulars, which we obtained 
with so much denunciation of the administration of 
our government, — President Lincoln and all officials, — 
that the ire of Green and the rest of the crew was roused, 
and they responded in a manner that brought on a free- 
for-all fight. The chaps fought well, but were no match 
for our boys, and in a very short time they received the 
pounding of their lives, after which all our men went on 
board happy, having in their opinion aired their patriot- 
ism, and vindicated the honor of the old flag. 

When we arrived at the Cove, Mr. Deshon left for 
Nassau to take the steamer for New York. I went down 
with him in a small boat, and we had with us the specie 
that we had taken on the trip. We arrived just in time 
for me to see him on board the steamer before she sailed. 
Returning to the schooner, I arranged for the sale of 
the remaining portion of the cargo, and putting on shore 
a part, returned to Governor's Harbor with the balance, 
which was landed, and taking on a small load of pines, 
we sailed for Boston, where we arrived without mishap, 
having been absent three months. The crew having been 
paid off, left for home, there being now little danger 
from the draft. 



COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 249 

Mr. Deshon concluding not to make another venture, 
I was engaged by Mr. Joseph E. Manning to make one 
more trip as supercargo, and was in Nassau in company 
with a large number of the most famous blockade runners, 
all engaged in running cotton. This was a money-making 
business for those who engaged in it, if they escaped 
capture by the blockading fleet. The steamers, designed 
especially for speed, long, low, and very sharp, would 
come out from England, laden with a cargo destined for 
the South but shipped to Nassau, where, on arrival, the 
cargo was taken out and then hurriedly put on board 
again, when she was ready for her run. If successful, the 
captain received $5,000 in gold, and one or more bales of 
cotton, and all on board were pecuniarily interested. It 
was not, by all accounts, such a difficult matter to get 
into port, but the getting out, laden with cotton, was 
the problem to be worked out. Frequently, when having 
successfully run the gauntlet of the blockading fleet off 
the port, and thinking they were all clear and safe, they 
would find themselves at daylight close under the guns 
of a U. S. gunboat stationed on the offshore blockade. 
An amusing incident, as related by Captain William 
Swasey of Marblehead, acting master of one of the 
gunboats on the outer station, is a case in point. 

One morning at daylight a steamer was sighted close 
aboard, and being covered by the guns of the gunboat, 
it was too late to escape. Heaving her to, Captain Swasey 
was ordered on board the blockade runner to bring the 
captain to the gunboat. Naturally he was chagrined to 
find himself caught in a trap, after supposing himself 
past all danger. 

Ascending the gangway, Captain Swasey stepped on 
board. With an extended hand and in a cheerful, 
breezy manner, he greeted the runner's captain, who 



250 OCEAN LIFE 

stood aft, bidding him good morning, and adding that he 
was very glad to see him. 

" Are you? " said the captain of the captured vessel. 
" Well! It's a d — d sight more that I am to see you, 
this morning." 

The men were taken out, a prize crew put on board, 
and the vessel with her cargo was sent to a northern port. 
The prize money from these captures was something 
enormous. This same acting master received some ten 
thousand dollars as his share in six months' time, while 
a captain who was formerly my second mate, and who 
was in the volunteer naval service, was so fortunate as 
to receive as his share from his prize money, upwards of 
eighty thousand dollars. 

After making a cruise through the islands and returning 
to Nassau, we found there the ram " Stonewall Jackson," 
built for the Confederates and named for the Confederate 
General Thomas J. Jackson, nicknamed " Stonewall." 
It was a most formidable-looking craft, anchored outside 
the harbor. She was, however, too late to do any damage, 
as but a short time after came the news of the fall of the 
Confederacy. The news came like a thunderbolt to 
Nassau and its merchants. All were confident the war 
would last for a year and perhaps years longer, and 
merchants found a ready market at top prices for their 
goods. The inhabitants of the Bahamas were literally 
rolling in wealth; the labor of the blacks commanding 
from three to five dollars an hour on night work, and the 
work was going on night and day. 

Nassau was the hot-bed of secession, and it was ex- 
tremely unhealthy to show sympathy for the North 
within its borders. Orders were sent to England, limits 
taken off, and every warehouse was stuffed with goods, 
when the news came that the war was over! 



COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 251 

Prices on everything dropped far below the zero mark. 
Every house, except two, went under, while goods of 
all descriptions were rushed out among the islands, to 
be sold at any price that could be obtained. Fine boots 
that were formerly sold at ten or twelve dollars a pair, 
were let go at fifty cents, and other things in like pro- 
portion. It was a great blow to Nassau, and one 
from which it took a long time to recover. 

My invoice having been disposed of before the crash 
came, I chartered the schooner to a Nassau house, one 
of the two that withstood the shock, to load oranges at 
Andros Island for New York, and sending the captain 
off, I remained to settle up some business before taking the 
steamer for New York. Returning to Harbor Island, I 
remained there two weeks, when a schooner arrived with 
a delegation on board, including the candidates for 
election to the House of Assembly at Nassau. They were 
on a tour of the islands, holding meetings at all the 
principal points, canvassing for votes, and were a jolly lot. 

I had business at Green Turtle Key, and on my men- 
tioning it to the captain of the schooner, whom I knew 
very well, he gave me a most cordial invitation to join 
the party on board and make the trip with them. This 
invitation I was not slow to accept, as I had no way 
of getting over except by chartering a small craft to take 
me across, and that was expensive. 

The general election for the members of the " As- 
sembly," — the legislative body in the Bahamas, which 
are governed by Great Britain, — was a great affair, 
participated in by every voter in the group; as much, 
or more, interest and party spirit being shown, as in our 
presidential election at home. Although no salary is 
attached to the office, it is deemed the highest honor to 
serve as a member of the " House " and be able to place 



252 OCEAN LIFE 

" M. A." after the incumbent's name, while large sums, 
as with us, are expended in campaign expenses, and to 
influence votes. Our party, composed of gentlemen 
upon making whose acquaintance I found to be a most 
congenial set, was well supplied with spirited arguments, 
which, with the eatables, were carefully stowed in the 
schooner's hold, to be brought forth as occasion demanded, 
and the candidate making the best showing in this line 
and with good oratorical powers, was the one who generally 
won the prize. 

Our first stop, after leaving Harbor Island, was at 
Cherry Harbor, a small settlement just inside the keys 
on the island of Abaco. Here we found our rival can- 
didate, who was having things all his own way. He had 
addressed his constituents, sent out his henchmen, 
counted noses, and was so firm in the belief that he would 
be elected the following day at Cherry Harbor, that he 
had ordered a large pig killed to make a big pork pie or 
stew for the voters. 

No sooner was our anchor dropped than a dozen or 
more colored gentlemen boarded us, knowing we had 
on board the rival candidate. They were received with 
open arms and told us about all the proceedings on 
shore, of the pig being killed and so forth. They were 
talked to, the spirited arguments were brought forth, 
also the eatables, and in an hour they went ashore pledged 
to our party and to influence all their friends; in short, 
to invite the whole population to come on board and 
partake of the good things, after which the Hon. Mr. 
So and So, the candidate, and other distinguished guests, 
would address the citizens of Cherry Harbor on the issues 
at stake, and the welfare and prosperity of the Bahama 
Islands; also announcing that a dance would be held 
after the speaking, to which all were invited, and refresh- 



COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 253 

ments, with light wines for the ladies, would be provided 
through the liberality and courtesy of the Hon. Mr. 
So and So, our distinguished candidate. 

The election came off, and it is needless to say our 
candidate was elected by a rousing majority. Our rival, 
scenting defeat, sent out word the following morning 
not to kill the pig, but he was assured it was not only 
killed but eaten! 

Leaving Cherry Harbor for Green Turtle Key and 
passing Great Harbor until our return, we arrived in 
the evening, at once going ashore, where our constituents 
were awaiting us. Our advance agents reported every- 
thing in good form and victory certain. 

Green Turtle Key, lying northeast of Abaco is a thriving 
settlement, having a mixed population of whites and 
colored about equally divided. They live by fishing, 
orange culture, and the cultivation of the land for raising 
their own vegetables, wrecking, or any employment that 
offers. They are a most hospitable class, their doors 
always open to strangers. 

The following day, being election, was observed as a 
holiday. Turtle was served up, in every style, to the 
voters, and, in fact, to any one who would partake. 
Speeches were made, and after the votes were counted, 
and it was announced that our candidate was the one 
elected, a general jollification was held, which lasted into 
the early morning hours. 

Continuing on to Great Harbor, I there took leave 
of my hospitable host, I wishing to go to Nassau, while 
they were bound for Long Island and Rum Key. A 
small craft, bound over, suiting my convenience, I reached 
Nassau safely, in time for the New York steamer, and 
two days later, bidding adieu to the Bahamas, a pleasant 
run of four days brought us to the pier in North River. 



CHAPTER XXIV 
1866 - 1867 



AND PETERSBURG. — RIVER GIRONDE AND BORDEAUX. — 
HAPPY OCEAN LIFE IN OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS 

The war had closed, but all business was in a most 
unsettled state. Wounded and disabled troops were 
constantly returning to the headquarters of the several 
States to be mustered out, and although there was joy 
at the ending of the war and the preservation of the 
Union, sad scenes were daily witnessed. Many house- 
holds were in sorrow, throughout the land, mourning 
for fathers, husbands and sons, who had gone forth to 
battle, laying down their lives for their country and 
to preserve the Union and the honor of the flag. 

The next eight months I spent on shore, constantly 
on the watch for a vessel I could buy into that would 
be suitable. I had contracted a second marriage, and 
intended to take my wife with me on the voyage, and 
getting the refusal of a new barque of eight hundred 
tons, then on her first voyage from Havana to New York, 
to command if satisfactory, I awaited her arrival at the 
latter port with some degree of impatience. 

Upon her arrival I inspected her, and at once closed 
the purchase and took charge. The " Keystone " was a 
fine vessel, having good carrying capacity. She was 

254 



THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 255 

fairly sharp, had fine sailing qualities and nice accom- 
modations, consisting of a roomy main cabin with a 
cozy after, or ladies' cabin; just the craft in which to 
make a lady comfortable, and a captain taking his wife 
to sea with him would have a very pleasant home. 

I obtained a charter to load tobacco at City Point, 
Va., for Bordeaux, and the barque was fitted out for 
six months, expecting to return to New York from 
Europe. 

My first officer, Mr. Charles B. Nelson, was a stranger 
to me, but highly recommended, while my second officer, 
Mr. Edwin H. Lovett, had formerly served with me in 
the same position on the ship " J. P. Whitney." 

I returned to Boston for my wife and to settle a few 
business matters, and took the train back to New York, 
arriving at 10 p. m. and putting up at a hotel until ready 
for sea. My wife's brother accompanied us, to spend a 
few days with his sister and see her off. This made it 
very pleasant, for he could escort her around shopping 
or sightseeing, while I was busy, attending to the busi- 
ness of the barque. 

When everything was in readiness for sailing, we 
embarked, Brother George going down the bay with us 
to return on the towboat from Sandy Hook. 

Hauling into the stream, the tug came alongside, and 
making fast, we proceeded down the harbor, bidding 
good-by to New York on as bright and beautiful a July 
morning as one could ever witness, little thinking that 
three years would roll around, and great changes occur, 
ere we again saw it. 

Arriving at Sandy Hook, sail was made, after which 
George took a final leave of his sister and went on board 
the tug; fasts were cast off, and with a " good-by and 
pleasant voyage " from the towboat captain, we parted 



256 OCEAN LIFE 

company, the tug returning to New York, while the 
" Keystone " continued her voyage south. 

Looking over our crew to see who we had on board, 
the result was entirely satisfactory. The crew were mostly 
Swedes and Norwegians, with a Finn and two Germans, 
all able-bodied men, and good sailors, as afterwards 
proved; a carpenter, my old Chinese steward that I 
was fortunate enough to run across in New York, a Malay 
cook, Mrs. Whidden and myself, made up the barque's 
complement of sixteen, all told. 

A quick run brought us to Fortress Monroe, where, 
taking a pilot, we sailed up the James River to City Point, 
and made fast to the wharf to await our cargo of tobacco, 
which was to be sent down from Richmond in lighters. 

The trip up the river was of more than usual interest. 
It was so soon after the close of the war, that almost 
every foot of ground and point of land had a history, 
and the pilot pointed out to us where some of the most 
thrilling scenes were enacted. 

As it would be a week before our cargo would begin 
to arrive, we improved the time by visiting Richmond, 
and for a few days made our headquarters at the Spots- 
wood Hotel. Although the war was ended, the old 
spirit of secession was still strong in the hearts of the 
South. In Richmond, the capital of the Confederacy, the 
feeling of rancor and bitterness towards the North was 
still apparent, and cropped out when conversing with 
the citizens, the old residents particularly, and it was 
not to be wondered at; the wound was so recent, that 
any reference to the struggle between the North and South 
was sure to bring out an expression of opinion favorable 
to the latter. For this reason, we carefully avoided the 
subject of the war, unless sure of our ground; being 
desirous of information, we did not wish to antagonize 



THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 257 

any one. Returning to City Point, we took the train for 
Petersburg, and visited the battlefields, in front of the 
town, where occurred some of the hardest fighting of 
the war; the crater, of the mine designed by the Union 
forces to undermine a Confederate fort, and the blowing 
up of the same, July 30, 1864; the rifle pits and trenches 
where the sharpshooters of both armies lay entrenched 
almost within a stone's throw of one another, each seeking 
to pick off his opponent if he exposed himself to fire; 
each and every spot being pointed out by our guide, 
who was an ex-Confederate soldier, and an active partici- 
pant in the struggle before Petersburg. 

Relics of the fight were to be picked up on every side, — 
bullets, broken gun-stocks and ramrods, army buttons, — 
and we could imagine the tide of battle that surged 
around this spot, which now the sun shone down upon 
so peacefully and bright, but the most vivid imagining 
would fall far short of the reality. 

In the evening, at the hotel we listened to thrilling 
stories of the fighting before Petersburg " in the days 
that tried men's souls," and taking our train the following 
morning for City Point, we bade adieu to these historic 
scenes, feeling well repaid for our visit. 

We made some very pleasant acquaintances at City 
Point, and our time passed quickly in a round of visiting 
and sightseeing, until, our lading completed, we bade 
good-by to our shore friends, and taking a pilot on board, 
proceeded down river in tow of a tugboat. Arriving at 
Fortress Monroe, we came to anchor for the night, and 
early next morning, got under way, and proceeded to 
sea. 

A heavy swell from the south 'ard and a fall in the 
barometer indicated a blow from that quarter, but the 
wind being fair, strong west, the " Keystone " was kept 



258 OCEAN LIFE 

due east to cross the Gulf Stream, and if the storm proved 
to be a hurricane, as I suspected by the great swell, I 
expected to escape it, or the worst part of it, by pushing 
her across its path before it reached our latitude. This 
was most fortunate, for, as we learned later, a furious 
hurricane, that followed the course of the Gulf Stream, 
swept across our wake twelve to fifteen hours after we 
had passed, doing immense damage to shipping caught 
in its path, and along the coast; while we carried our 
fair wind and smooth sea the entire passage to the mouth 
of the River Gironde, not even having occasion to hand 
a royal, and making the run in twenty-one days from 
Hampton Roads. 

This was my wife's first ocean experience, barring the 
short run from New York to City Point, and there was 
not a day's sickness to mar her pleasure, and no rough 
weather. 

We entered the river, and having passed the high 
lighthouse of Cordouan, a pilot came aboard, and we 
proceeded up-stream and taking a tug a little below the 
city of Bordeaux, and towing past the tiers of shipping, 
the " Keystone " was moored but a short distance from 
the banks that rise at quite a steep incline from the 
water. 

I found, on calling upon my consignees, that tobacco 
cargoes were discharged singly, and we would have to 
await our turn, although we were ready for discharging. 
There were two ships ahead of us. We had thirty-five 
lay days and were obliged to wait. This was bad, but 
there was no help for it. 

The city of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Gironde 
River, is the centre of the wine export trade. Many 
American vessels were in port, and quite a number of 
captains had their wives or families with them, among 




QUAYS AND RIVER FRONTAGE, BORDEAUX 




QUAI LOUIS XVIII AND LIGHT - TOWERS, RIVER GIRONDE, 
BORDEAUX 



THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 259 

whom there was frequent visiting, dinner parties, rides, 
shopping and shore excursions, all of which served to 
pass the time in a most enjoyable manner, making it 
very pleasant for the ladies* 

The city is well laid out, the streets are broad and 
clean, there are handsome public squares with fountains, 
and many beautiful public buildings. 

Among the many places of interest which we visited 
was the Basilique St. Andre (Cathedral of St. Andrew), 
a very ancient building erected more than twelve hun- 
dred years ago. It is very quaint and massive, and of 
great interest to the student of architecture. Some 
years back, in excavating for repairs, the workmen 
had discovered and unearthed between two hundred 
and three hundred bodies that had been interred within 
its walls. There was no record of them, or how long 
they had been buried, but it must have been centuries; 
yet there was little evidence of decay, save that the 
skin was dark and resembled leather. They had long 
dark hair, and the features of some were almost perfect. 
We were told that their preservation was owing to the 
peculiar nature of the earth in which they were buried. 
They were ranged, standing with no glass between them 
and the observer, around a large room, or crypt, under 
one corner of the edifice, and were objects of great curiosity 
to all visitors. 

The cathedral was open at all hours, and service almost 
constantly going on. 

Notre Dame was another fine old church, — or new 
beside St. Andre, being but three hundred years old. 
This was the English church, where services were held 
daily. 

At the upper end of the city are beautiful gardens, 
facing the river and the Quai Louis XVIII. On each 



260 OCEAN LIFE 

side of the entrance stand two high light-towers, which 
act as a river guide at night. These gardens are great 
pleasure resorts. Public and private fairs and fetes are 
held there, and games of all kinds. In company with 
others we visited them many times, always finding 
something interesting and amusing. 

Our visits to the great canning establishments, where 
fish, flesh and fowl, fruits, and every kind of vegetable, 
were put up in cans for export to every part of the world, 
were most interesting and instructive. The great kitchens 
where everything was prepared, the immense caldrons and 
cooking apparatus, the canning and sealing department, 
and great storehouses, all came under our inspection, 
and throughout the whole great establishment everything 
was cleanliness itself, — not a speck of dirt or dust to be 
seen, — and in after days we relished our stock of canned 
goods much more from having witnessed the perfect 
modus operandi. 

We chartered the " Keystone " for Buenos Ayres, to 
load wines and liquors, and having got rid of our tobacco, 
we commenced our lading, and in sixty-five days from 
entering the port of Bordeaux were again ready for 
sea. 

All stores on board, taking a river pilot, we proceeded 
down river in tow of a tug, in company with the barque 
" White Cloud," Captain Ames, who was bound for 
New Orleans. Discharging our pilot at Pauillac, all 
sail was made, and with a fine rattling breeze, we were 
soon clear of the Bay of Biscay, and heading south for 
the trade winds; obtaining a fine view of Madeira in 
passing, also the Peak of Teneriffe (Canary Islands), 
towering among the clouds. The wind gradually hauling 
to the eastward, the trade clouds began to appear hanging 
around the horizon, with shoals of flying-fish, and fields of 



THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 261 

gulfweed, in that soft, balmy atmosphere inseparable from 
the region of the trade winds. Night after night we 
remained on deck until nearly the close of the first watch, 
admiring the glory of the heavens spangled with stars, 
and resplendent with the constellations of our northern 
hemisphere, watching them each night sink lower and 
lower in the northern quarter, while in the south new 
ones took their places. 

Our crew were quite musical, and in addition to fine 
voices, a number of them were possessed of several 
instruments, including a violin, flute, an accordion and 
a cornet, their owners being good performers on each. 
The second dog-watch, in good weather, was generally 
devoted to a concert forward, both vocal and instrumental, 
and frequently it would be two bells (9 p. m.) before they 
would go below. Their selections were good, and we 
thoroughly enjoyed their music. 

My wife, to whom all this was new, was in love with 
the sea, and up to the present time she had not seen a 
gale or experienced any rough weather. While at Bor- 
deaux I had the opportunity of buying a fine upright 
piano at a very low figure. Mrs. Whidden being a good 
performer, I thought it would serve to while away many 
hours that otherwise might be weary for her, and I never 
regretted the purchase. In the roomy after, or ladies', 
cabin there was ample space for it, and it made our quar- 
ters decidedly homelike. A good stock of sheet music, 
in addition to all the popular airs of the day, with her 
hymns and church music, completed the outfit. The 
purchase of this piano was a good investment aside from 
the pleasure derived from it, as will be seen later. 

The work of the barque went smoothly on, the crew 
being most efficient, quick to obey orders, quiet and 
respectful, while the officers were all that could be 



262 OCEAN LIFE 

desired. There was no noise, or profanity, but a firm, 
steady course of discipline, that invariably commanded 
respect. Meanwhile, we were rapidly approaching the 
equator. 



CHAPTER XXV 
1867 - 1868 

POUR MONTHS AT FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES. — 
THREE HUNDRED SAIL IN PORT. THE BOTANICAL GAR- 
DENS OF RIO JANEIRO. — A WEIRD NIGHT AT BOTOFOGO 

Crossing the parallel of 6° north, the wind growing 
lighter, we finally took leave of the northeast trade winds 
ere we had made a further degree of southing; ending 
them with a squall of wind and rain accompanied by 
heavy thunder and vivid lightning, succeeded by calms 
and sunshine varied by squalls of wind and torrential 
rains which continued for nearly a week. In latitude 
1° north, we caught the welcome southeast trades, and, 
with a taut bowline crossed the line, and sighting Fer- 
nando Norohna, the " Keystone " ran past Pernambuco, 
Bahia and the Abrolhos Islands, and Cape Frio, and as 
we drew south, the wind gradually hauled to the west'ard 
by the northern quarter. Beautiful weather still con- 
tinued, the nights glorious with the constellations of the 
southern heavens; among many others nightly visible 
in their beauty the " Magellan clouds " and " Southern 
Cross." 

Moonlight on the water. Can anything be more 
beautiful than a ship on the water at night, under the soft 
light of a full moon, in the region of the trade winds? 
There is a fine, steady breeze filling every sail, with the 

263 



264 OCEAN LIFE 

canvas asleep and showing snow-white in its beams, 
each sail and spar and rope standing out in bold relief, 
and while a portion of the ship hidden from its rays 
makes of the whole a perfect picture of lights and shadows, 
the ship glides noiselessly on; no sound, save the striking 
of the bell that tells the passing hours of the night, and 
an occasional order from the officer of the deck. 

Many such nights we remained on deck till past the 
midnight hour when the scene was too beautiful for us 
to leave and go below. 

" Land ho! " rang out on the morning of the forty- 
eighth day from Bordeaux, and Cape St. Mary, the 
northern cape to the entrance of the Rio de la Plata, 
could in a short time be plainly seen from the deck. 
Getting chain cables up and anchors on the bow, we 
stood in for Lobos Island, passed it and dropping anchor 
off the point of Montevideo, set a signal for a river 
pilot to take us up the river to Buenos Ayres, and early 
next morning one came one board, bringing a quarter of 
fresh beef and some vegetables, which were very accept- 
able after our voyage, but at the same time he was the 
bearer of news not of a cheerful nature. 

Cholera and yellow fever were raging at Buenos Ayres, 
hundreds dying daily, with from three hundred to four 
hundred vessels in port. It was almost impossible to get 
labor or lighters, and some of them had been there between 
two and three months before breaking bulk. As our 
cargo was one that could only go in the Custom House 
deposits, the outlook for getting away in quick time was 
not brilliant. 

For myself I had no fear; never having been attacked 
by epidemics, I considered myself immune, but I trembled 
for my wife, and Helen's death from cholera in Shanghai 
came vividly before me, but there was nothing to do but 



FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 265 

face the music. I did not let her know my fears, but 
made light of it as much as possible. 

We anchored in the outer roadstead, some ten miles 
from the city, among a large fleet of shipping, but so far 
from land that only the spires of the city churches could 
be seen through the glass from the barque's deck, and it 
seemed, except for the turbid water and the adjacent 
shipping, like being at sea. 

When I went ashore to see my consignees, I found the 
chances of discharging at an early day were slight indeed. 
I also learned that the victims of cholera were largely 
among the natives and Italian population, no American 
captains or their families having been taken down. Care 
in diet and mode of living seemed to have a great deal 
to do with the preservation of health. The shipping had 
been very free from cholera or fever, so far. 

I engaged rooms and board at my old quarters, Mrs. 
Bradley's, and went back on board the barque, but the 
next morning we took up our quarters on terra ftrma. 
A number of captains' wives were guests of Mrs. Bradley, 
who, with her three daughters, made the house very 
pleasant and homelike; a good piano with the girls' 
fine voices added much to the pleasure of our stay, and 
a jolly company of captains kept all thought of cholera 
and yellow fever from our minds. If any one gave it a 
thought, he never expressed it. There was, it is true, 
not so much shopping and visiting, or riding into the 
country, as there otherwise would have been, but the 
ladies were not confined indoors, our house having two 
large patios, or enclosures, into which the doors of each 
room opened; so the guests only had to step from their 
rooms into the open air of the patio. Occasional visits 
on shipboard, for a few days or a week, helped to break 
the monotony. 



266 OCEAN LIFE 

Sixty days passed before we could commence the 
discharging of our cargo, and it was four months from our 
arrival ere the last cask was taken on shore, it having 
been impossible to obtain lighters. All our lay days were 
used up, and we were a long time on demurrage, but it 
was not enough to pay for the delay. 

But all things have an end, and with thankful hearts 
that no one had been stricken down with cholera or fever, 
we hove up our anchors one morning, and said good-by 
to Buenos Ayres with no regrets, and with a fair wind 
took our departure for Rio Janeiro in search of a freight. 

Landing our pilot at Montevideo, familiarly called 
the "-Mount," the " Keystone " proceeded to sea, and 
never did blue water and ocean breezes seem so grateful 
as after our four months' stay in fever-stricken Buenos 
Ayres. 

Brisk southerly winds soon brought us in sight of the 
high land at the entrance to Rio, with nothing of note 
having occurred after leaving the Mount. 

Rio Janeiro was familiar to me, but to my wife scenery 
of this kind was a new experience. The peaks of the 
mountains of Gabia and Corcovada and Sugar Loaf Hill, 
forming the contour of an immense man lying on his 
back, was a wonder to her, and as we drew in with the 
land, passing the islands of Pai and Mai, the great bay 
opening before us, entering the narrow passage between 
the high bluff on the right where the guns of Fort Santa 
Cruz frowned down upon us, and the Sugar Loaf Hill 
with its high conical peak on the left, the bright sparkling 
waters of the great bay extending inland sixteen miles, 
dotted with beautiful islands and covering upwards of 
fifty square miles of anchorage, her delight was un- 
bounded. 

As we sailed on, the entrance to Botofogo Bay, extend- 



FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 267 

ing inland back of the Sugar Loaf, and Gloria Hill, with 
its lovely dwellings and white church where the Emperor 
Dom Pedro attended divine service with his family, the 
ranges of hills and mountains in the background, all 
clothed in luxuriant tropical foliage, brought forth ex- 
clamations of rapture, appearing to her, as one writer 
declares, " like entering the gate of a tropical paradise." 

We came to anchor off the city below Cobras Island, 
and after the doctor's visit, obtained permission to go 
ashore, and on landing I met my old broker, Mr. 
Machado, who offered me a charter to go to Bahia to 
load sugar for Liverpool, England. The rate was fair, 
the only objection being in the number of lay days 
wanted by the charterers, but after dickering awhile I got 
them reduced to two-thirds the number, when I accepted 
and signed the charter-party. 

Our stay now being limited, we wished to take in all 
we could in the short time allotted to us. 

We were not long in noting that different streets were 
devoted to each line of goods; for instance, in the Rue de 
Ouvidor (Gold Street) one finds no class of goods but 
jewelry, so it was not hard to find when we desired to 
visit the jewelers' establishments, and the same with 
those of the dealers in millinery and dry goods. 

After a short season of shopping and admiring the 
many beautiful things to be seen, we drove to the Botan- 
ical Gardens, justly famed throughout the world, a lovely 
feature of these gardens being a magnificent straight 
avenue of majestic palms. The road to this botanical 
park is a continuous garden in itself, abounding in every 
variety of tropical fruit, and flowers of rare beauty which 
greet the eye on every side and fill the air with a delicious 
fragrance. Trees of every description are here seen in 
all their beauty, while the culture of the tea plant is an 



268 OCEAN LIFE 

attraction. One could remain here months, and then not 
tire of the beauty of these gardens. 

Mount Corcovada, three thousand feet in height, 
towers above this lovely park; its copious springs of 
clear water, that form the principal supply of the city, 
being conveyed to the numerous reservoirs and fountains 
by means of an aqueduct twelve miles long, built more 
than a century ago, which crosses a valley ninety feet 
deep on two great tiers of arches. 

In the afternoon we drove to Botofogo, a summer 
resort of the wealthy class during the heated term, who 
drive out from the city each afternoon and return in 
the morning to attend to business. An ideal spot is 
Botofogo. Its shores form a beautiful crescent-shaped 
bay of the waters that flow in from the sea back of the 
Sugar Loaf Mountain, pure, bright, and sparkling as 
crystal. 

Hard, smooth beaches, with light yellow sand, afford 
incomparable bathing facilities, and around this bay a 
smooth, broad road stretches away for miles, making a 
fine driveway, where may be seen every afternoon, as 
the sun sinks behind the peaks of Gabia and Corcovada, 
the elegant equipages of the elite of the capital, filled 
with gay, laughing groups of ladies and gentlemen, out 
for their evening drive. The rich dresses and bright 
colors of the ladies, blending with the plain conven- 
tional black of their male companions, make a pretty 
picture. 

Surrounding the bay on the hillsides stand beautiful 
cottages, the summer homes of Rio's prosperous citizens, 
while interspersed, rising from their own spacious grounds 
amid towering palms, stately mangoes, and a wealth of 
flowers, are the magnificent hotels, one of which was ths 
scene of a ludicrous incident, heartily laughed at after- 



FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 269 

wards, but at the time fraught with terror to Mrs. 
Whidden. 

These hotels were always well rilled with guests both 
transient and permanent. 

We engaged a room for a night without going to it, 
and strolled out sightseeing. 

As the sun sank, the short twilight deepened into 
night, the stars appeared, lights twinkled from the 
cottages, the evening breeze swept, cool, across the 
bay, while soft, delicious music, low and sweet, from the 
band at one of the hotels, was wafted to our ears, inducing 
a dreamy, restful feeling. From a cottage on the hill 
we listened to sweet voices mingling in a love song, 
accompanied by the music of harp or guitar. Numerous 
pleasure yachts were filled with a gay throng enjoying 
an evening on the water; their songs and laughter mingled 
with strains of music could be distinctly heard, borne 
on the evening breeze. From behind the crest of Sugar 
Loaf the moon appeared, flooding the entire bay with 
a sheen of silver, completing a picture of exquisite beauty. 

As the evening waned we sought our hotel, tired, but 
having passed a most enjoyable day, and after partaking 
of a light supper, we were shown to our apartment. 
The sleeping-rooms, containing four-poster beds with 
enormous canopies overhead, were on each side of the 
entrance to a large, roomy sitting-room at the end of a 
long, gloomy hall or passage at the rear end of the house, 
and evidently little used. Three windows in the sitting- 
room, extending nearly to the floor on one side, looked out 
upon the grounds. Palms, and other trees came close 
to the windows, their branches brushing the screens 
as they waved in the night air. A massive, round 
mahogany table occupied the centre of the room, above 
which hung the gas chandelier. Dark mahogany and 



270 OCEAN LIFE 

ebony furniture, with an uncarpeted floor nearly black, 
and highly polished, gave to the surroundings a gloomy, 
sombre appearance, — which was not improved by 
lighting up, the gas being so poor as only to render the 
darkness more visible, — and an uncanny look to the 
room, producing a most depressing effect, equal to a 
nightmare, on the feelings of a nervous person. Although 
not inclined to nervousness myself, my wife was, to the 
extreme. A slight alarm would cause her to jump and 
scream, while voices at night, unaccounted for, would 
keep her awake imagining things until she had worked 
herself into a state of absolute terror. 

With nothing to read, and not caring to attempt 
writing in the poor light, we sat talking of what we had 
seen during the day, but I could see my wife took little 
interest in the conversation, her eye wandering to the 
dark recesses of the room and starting at the grazing of 
the screens by the branches of the trees, until finding it 
was becoming irksome, we gave it up and retired. 

Being very tired, I quickly dropped into a doze, but 
not for long. I felt a slight shake and a low whisper in 
my ear; 

" There's some one in the room, John. Don't you hear 
them? " 

Raising my head, I listened. Yes. In a moment I 
heard a noise as of some one moving lightly across the 
floor. The fact of having a considerable sum of money 
with me, which I had been too late to deposit, perhaps 
made me more nervous. Whispering to my wife to keep 
quiet, and reaching for a revolver under my pillow, I 
struck a light, and walked softly into the large room. 
All was quiet. No appearance of any intruder; the noise 
having ceased with the scratching of the match. Satisfy- 
ing myself that there was no cause for alarm, I assured 



FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 271 

my wife that her fears were groundless, and sank into an 
uneasy slumber, only to be awakened by a pinch and a 
tremulous whisper: 

" There's certainly some one in that room, John. I 
can hear them plainly." 

Again I listened. Yes, I could plainly hear some one 
creeping across the room, and a rustling noise as though 
the windows were being tampered with, — which, by the 
way, were all open. 

Again, pistol in one hand, and a match in the other, 
I crept to the chandelier and turned on the light, at the 
same time glancing keenly around the room. Still there 
was nothing disturbed; the noise had ceased, and for 
this I could not account. Examining the windows, also 
the other sleeping-room carefully, and finding all right, 
I began to wonder, although not a believer in ghosts or 
the supernatural, if the chamber was haunted. Leaving 
the gas burning at my wife's suggestion, I lay awake 
awhile, and hearing nothing further, was just losing myself, 
when a horrified whisper in my ear brought my eyes again 
wide open. 

" Look overhead at the canopy. Isn't it much lower? " 

I knew this was the echo of one of the tales of child- 
hood's days about some one being smothered in a tavern 
by having the canopy lowered upon him while he slept, 
but seeing my poor wife was almost wild with nervous 
fright, I reasoned with her that there was no occasion 
for her nervousness, and having as I thought calmed her, 
dropped again into slumber, when a hand was placed over 
my mouth and a hoarse whisper sounded in my ear: 

" Look at the light. It is being lowered ; hear the 
creeping! " 

Yes, it was so, and nearly out. I dashed into the 
outer room, nearly treading on a huge rat that scurried 



272 OCEAN LIFE 

across the floor. All was quiet, and lighting a candle 
and looking at my watch, I found it was just one o'clock. 

Suddenly the whole situation dawned upon me. There 
had been a ministerial dinner at the hotel that night, and 
everybody was up very late. This I had known, but 
had forgotten, and being in a remote part of the house, 
had heard nothing of it. The gas was just being turned 
off at the meter for the night. The remains of our luncheon 
on the table was an attraction for the rats and mice, 
while the noises were occasioned by their scampering over 
the polished floor. I explained all, and laughed it off, 
or tried to, but the tension had been too great; no more 
sleep visited her eyes and she arose with the first peep of 
day. 

Coming from my room an hour later, I found her at 
the window drinking in the pure morning air. 

The room presented a different appearance in the 
morning light from that formed in the darkness by her 
heated imagination, being a large, cool apartment with 
a most beautiful outlook. 

A morning stroll, in the pure, bracing atmosphere by 
the bay, after our coffee, and a good breakfast at the 
hotel, served to dissipate the remembrance of the previous 
night, and we both thoroughly enjoyed our drive back 
to Rio. , 



CHAPTER XXVI 

1868 

BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM. — DINNER PARTIES ON 
SHIPBOARD.* — CAPE CLEAR LIGHT. — LIVERPOOL 

After clearing at the Custom House, and a last shop- 
ping tour, we said good-by to our broker Machado, who 
kindly presented my wife, as a souvenir of her visit to 
Rio, a fine large book of photographic views in and about 
the city; a present she appreciated very highly, and 
from which a number of pictures are taken to illustrate 
this volume. 

Early the following morning we went on board and 
took our departure in tow of a tug. Outside the islands 
sail was made, fasts cast off, and we were on our way 
to Bahia. Sighting the light at the entrance of the bay, 
on the morning of the sixth day out, we soon let go the 
anchor in front of the city. The harbor looked almost 
deserted, there were so few sail in port, viz., two English 
ships, three barques, an American brigantine, six or 
eight coasting schooners and two steamers. 

Bahia, the second city in size in Brazil, has a population 
of about one hundred and seventy thousand. The harbor 
is spacious, the bay extending inland six or seven miles. 
Its industries are represented by several manufactories 
and a shipyard. Its chief exports are cotton, tobacco, 
and sugar. It is divided into two districts, called the 

273 



274 OCEAN LIFE 

upper and the lower town. The upper is the residential 
district, from which there is a fine view of the shipping 
and bay. Here is located the beautiful English church 
and cemetery, the latter laid out with great taste in 
spacious avenues, grand trees, almost every kind of 
flowering shrub, and a wealth of flowers, which greet the 
eye at every turn. The residences of Bahia's well-to-do 
citizens are marvels of comfort and elegance, well adapted 
to the climate, which is, at times, very hot. The streets 
leading to the upper town are very steep and winding, 
and, being smooth concrete, are very difficult to climb for 
those not accustomed to them, but the natives do not 
seem to mind. It is customary to ride up or down, or 
rather to be carried in caderas or sedan-chairs, borne on 
the shoulders of two or four porters, as the weight may be. 
It is certainly a much more comfortable mode of transit, 
especially for ladies, than attempting to risk a tumble by 
walking. 

The lower town at the foot of the high hills is devoted 
to the business interests. 

With the exception of a visit to the cozy home of 
Mr. Rogers, our ship-chandler, who with his charming 
daughter entertained us, we stayed on board ship while 
in port, where it was more comfortable. 

On shore the heat was excessive. During our stay 
with Mr. Rogers, our host and I daily went down town 
to attend to business, while my wife was shown all the 
places of interest in the upper town, including drives to 
the English cemetery and out in the country, — the 
churches, beautiful residences, parks, etc. 

At the expiration of a week, we bade adieu to our kind 
host and hostess, extending to them a cordial invitation 
to dine with us on board the " Keystone," — an invitation 
which was as heartily accepted, and one of the most 



BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 275 

pleasant occasions while in port was that of the visit to 
our cozy quarters on the barque of Mr. Rogers and his 
daughter. 

At the head of the bay stands the noted church of Our 
Lady of Bom Fim, very old, and held in great veneration. 
It was said to be a perfect museum in the number and 
diversity of the offerings that had been made to Our 
Lady on account of miraculous cures from all sorts of 
diseases, wonderful escapes from storms and shipwreck 
at sea and dangers of every kind, all attributed to the 
intercession of Our Good Lady at just the right moment. 

Hearing so much regarding the phenomenon naturally 
increased our desire to become further acquainted with 
it, and my wife and another lady, the wife of the captain 
of an English barque, becoming interested, an excursion 
was planned to make it a visit by water, using the ship's 
boats, which were provided with awnings as a protection 
from the sun's rays. Anticipating an all day's stay, we 
had liberal luncheons put up for a party of seven in 
addition to our boats' crews, and set out quite early to 
avoid the heat as much as possible, with two boats, 
having on board: Captain Stone of the English barque, 
his wife and two children, Captain Hopkins of the brig 
" Trial," Mrs. Whidden and myself. 

A pull of six miles brought us to a shingly beach 
but a short distance from the church, which stood on a 
point of land which afforded a fine view down the bay. 
We walked up from the landing. 

At the entrance an old monk accosted us, and on 
learning our errand, called another to escort us and show 
us over the church and all contained therein. It was 
not a pretentious edifice, being very plain both outside 
and in, although substantially built of stone. A monastery 
adjoined, and services were continually going on. The 



276 OCEAN LIFE 

most interesting thing was the quaint character and 
number of the offerings presented to Our Lady. 

Accompanying each gift was an accurate, written 
account of the circumstances and conditions attending 
it. This was in fulfillment of a vow made at the time of 
sickness or danger. 

In addition to jewelry of all kinds, testifying to the 
gratitude of the givers, there were crutches without 
number, and the mainsail of a brig. The account stated 
that it belonged to a vessel that in a great storm at sea 
was in imminent danger, and the crew made a solemn 
vow to dedicate the mainsail of the brig to Our Lady of 
Bom Fim, if she would intercede and save them. They 
were saved, and on their arrival in port, in fulfillment 
of their vow they marched in solemn procession to the 
church, carrying the mainsail with them. There it hung, 
conspicuous among the many other offerings of every 
kind and description: children's toys, clothing, and 
playthings from mothers, while in the rightly named 
" Chamber of Horrors " were models of limbs in every 
stage of different diseases that " flesh is heir to," from 
those who had been cured, with a full account of the 
circumstances. 

The monks were very kind and courteous in showing 
and explaining to us everything that was interesting, 
and having seen all we cared to in a stay of between two 
and three hours, we bade them adieu, and sitting under 
the shade of a large spreading tree at some little distance 
from the church, we enjoyed our luncheon; after which 
we took up our march to the boats, and, finding the men 
awaiting our coming, embarked on our return trip. 

The boats' crews leisurely pulled down the bay; the 
cool breeze swept across the water, and we watched the 
sun sink in its western quarter, and saw the shadows 




RIO DE JANEIRO. CATHEDRAL AND PALACE SQUARE 



BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 277 

deepen and the stars appear, ere we reached home, well 
pleased with our outing to the church of Our Lady of 
Bom Fim. 

At Bahia, also, there was great delay in loading. 
Uncertain whether it should be cotton or sugar, my 
consignees took advantage of my lay days to obtain 
advices, and every one was used up ere our lading was 
completed, and I congratulated myself that I had insisted 
on a third being abated from the charter-party. As it 
was, there was no use fretting, other vessels being delayed 
in like manner, and we tried to take it philosophically. 

In the circle of acquaintances we had formed, social 
gatherings were frequent, and dinner parties were given 
by one and another captain to the others and their families. 
In connection with one of these a very funny incident 
occurred one day on board the American brig. 

Captain Hopkins — whose cabin was small, though 
his heart was as large as any one's — resolved, not- 
withstanding his limited quarters, to give a dinner party 
on board the " Trial," in acknowledgment of his numerous 
invitations. 

The brig, though having small accommodations below, 
had ample room on top of the cabin, the deck extending 
from side to side, with railings and cockpit aft, into which 
the after-cabin gangway opened; the slide of said com- 
panionway being level with the housetop on deck. On 
the top of the cabin, under the awnings, he would set his 
tables, with ample space to accommodate all his guests. 

This settled, the Captain sent out his invitations and 
made preparations for a spread. He was a general 
favorite, well along in years, being upwards of sixty, — 
a small man, having a quaint, seamed, whiskerless face, 
hair — well, here was the captain's trouble; nothing 
so annoyed him as the thought of baldness. What hair 



278 OCEAN LIFE 

he had was thin and of a grayish color, that which the 
Englishman designated as " mouldy." He had used all 
sorts of hair tonics, all to no purpose, but was now on a 
new tack. Some one had told him kerosene oil, well 
rubbed in, was the best thing for the hair, and would 
cause a healthy growth when everything else failed. 
He had firm faith in this, and applied it liberally several 
times a day, going around with his head glistening, and 
an odor distilling from him like a Pennsylvania oil 
derrick. 

On the day of the party, his guests had arrived on 
board, one or two from shore in addition to the captains 
and their wives, and all were dispersed under the awn- 
ings, enjoying themselves, and awaiting the serving of 
dinner. 

Captain Hopkins had gone below, presumably to put 
a few finishing touches to his appearance, and brush 
up his locks with a small application of his favorite 
kerosene. As he was alone in the cabin, no one knew 
just how it happened, but suddenly, every one was 
startled by a yell, and the next instant the head of old 
Hopkins appeared above the companionway, blazing 
like a giant candle! The ladies screamed, while one or 
two captains caught up buckets, and dipping up salt water 
over the brig's side, deluged the captain's head, extin- 
guishing him in a moment, but leaving him as bald as 
an egg, although beyond a few blisters, he was not 
seriously hurt. 

Few of those on board will ever forget his appearance 
as he emerged from the cabin resembling an animated 
torch. 

The excitement over, Captain Hopkins made light of 
it, although it came near making light of him. He insisted 
on dinner being served as arranged, and going below, 



BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 279 

changed his apparel, but it is safe to say he did not 
monkey with any more kerosene experiments. 

The occasion was a pronounced success, and a more 
jolly party never sat down together, and when the 
dinner was over, cigars were lighted, while the ladies 
enjoyed a social chat. This was our last dinner party, 
and one of the most pleasant. Captain Hopkins explained, 
in answer to inquiries, that he had lit a lamp, and in doing 
so had brought the lighted match in contact, some way, 
with his head, and the result that we had witnessed 
followed. 

A few days after, we bade adieu to our many friends, 
and with anchors at the bow, and all canvas spread to 
a favoring breeze, we sailed from the harbor of Bahia, 
bound for Liverpool, England. 

We crossed the equator and sailed through the trades, 
followed by a spell of light pleasant weather with variable 
winds, when taking a fine westerly, which carried us to 
Cape Clear, we made the light, a welcome sight, about 
two o'clock in the morning, the entire passage having 
been without incident of note. 

Passing Queenstown, we picked up a pilot off Holy- 
head the following morning early. 

Sailing craft and steamers were now all around us, 
presenting a most animated appearance, while old Holy- 
head stood out boldly in the morning light. Round the 
Skerries into the Irish Sea and past Point Lynas, we 
were hailed by the captain of a towboat, and engaging 
him after some dickering as to his charges, to tow the 
" Keystone " to Liverpool and dock her, we passed the 
hawser, and were soon spinning along at a lively clip, 
while sails were clewed up and furled for the last time 
this voyage, Jack working like a beaver, for Liverpool, 
his earthly paradise, was almost within touch. 



280 OCEAN LIFE 

A few hours more, and he would step on shore, a free 
man, with a good fat roll of Bank of England notes, or 
golden sovereigns to spend in having a good time, for 
nearly fifteen months' pay was due him, and with that 
amount in his pocket in Liverpool, he would not lack for 
friends, at least until he was again outward bound. 

Coming to anchor in the stream to wait for the tide, 
all was made ready for docking. At high water, our 
tugboat took us in tow, and entering the basin, we were 
warped through the gates into the Georges Dock, where 
the " Keystone " was placed in berth for discharging her 
cargo. Engaging the stevedore, Mr. Robert Lovegrove, 
and consigning the barque to Messrs. Wm. Killey & Co., 
we took up our quarters at a boarding-house in St. Paul's 
Square, where two or three American captains, with their 
wives and families, were stopping. This we considered 
more pleasant than a hotel. Our hostess, Mrs. Love- 
grove, the wife of our stevedore, was a most charming 
woman, bright and sunny in disposition, doing everything 
for the comfort of her guests, and with pleasant rooms, 
a cozy parlor and dining-room, a good table, and genial 
company, there was nothing left to be desired, and we 
settled down for a pleasant stay of a month or six weeks, 
for there were no freights in the market for a home port. 

After telling Messrs. Killey & Co. to look out for a 
charter for the barque, there was nothing to do except 
to wait. 

The time having expired that my crew shipped for, 
the American consul obliged me to pay them off, which 
involved three months' extra pay per man. It being in 
a foreign port, added about a thousand dollars to my pay- 
roll. The men were not desirous of being paid off iptil 
we arrived home, but the consul insisted, and I could^nly 
comply. Nearly all reshipped. The first officer leaving to 



BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 281 

get married, the second officer, Mr. Lovett, remained by 
the barque, taking his place. The cook and steward also 
reshipped for the next voyage, when we were again 
ready for sea. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

1868-1869 

LIVEEPOOL. — SPURGEON AND MYRTLE STREET CHAPEL. — 
AN IRISH JAUNTING - CAR. — CAPTAINS' WIVES AT SEA 

Our stay in Liverpool was very pleasant, taking in 
all the places of interest. Across the River Mersey is 
Birkenhead, in Wales, with its beautiful park, which well 
repaid us for a visit. 

A most delightful drive on a pleasant day was to Chid- 
well Abbey, some twenty miles distant from Liverpool, 
taking in the old town of Hale, where a visit to the old 
churchyard was found very interesting. Among the 
graves, covered by a slab of stone, we read a very curious 
inscription. It began with, " Here lies John the Child of 
Hale, who was nine feet eight inches tall." Then followed 
his dimensions, of limbs, also stating that he was a 
publican, that is, he kept a public house or tavern in 
the town, and died at the age of forty-six years. My 
wife took off the inscription verbatim, but it has been, 
unfortunately, lost. 

All the drives around Liverpool into the country we 
found most charming, and the ladies were always planning 
some excursion, accompanied by our hostess, who entered 
into all their plans. Her servants were competent and 
reliable, so that she could do this without neglecting her 
household duties, and having a knowledge of the most 

282 



LIVERPOOL 283 

interesting places, she was invaluable to her guests. Two 
or three evenings at concerts and the opera about covered 
the extent of our evening dissipation. The ladies, being 
fine musicians and possessed of good voices, could furnish 
such delightful music for impromptu concerts, the games 
and entertaining callers, of whom we had many, assisted 
so materially in making the cozy parlors attractive, 
that no one seemed desirous of going outside the house 
for amusement. 

One evening, having had tickets of admission sent 
us, we went to the Myrtle Street Chapel, Rev. Hugh 
Stowell Brown, pastor, to hear the Rev. Charles H. 
Spurgeon, who preached a sermon in aid of the school 
then being built for his boys. As well as my wife, I had 
a great desire to hear the world-renowned preacher. 
We went early and obtained fine seats but a short distance 
from the pulpit. The church was crowded to excess, 
and uncomfortable from lack of ventilation, but I would 
not have missed the opportunity. 

When Mr. Spurgeon entered the pulpit I felt rather 
disappointed. To me he did not have a clerical appear- 
ance. He was short and thick set, had a large, full face, 
and looked the typical, jolly Englishman. He glanced 
around the audience a moment, then commenced 
speaking, taking the unbelieving Thomas as his text, 
and after a few words, all thought of the clergyman's 
appearance had vanished. You recognized the fact that 
you were listening to the utterances of a master mind 
pleading the Master's cause. What impassioned language, 
driving home truths straight to the hearts of his hearers! 
How the audience hung upon his words, as he drew a 
picture of the youth growing up without care or a home, 
constantly subjected to evil communications ana sin, 
and asked all to come forward and aid in rescuing him 



284 OCEAN LIFE 

from moral degradation, and by placing him under good 
influences and teaching, to help prepare him for an upright 
Christian life, and to become a useful member of society! 

He spoke for over an hour, but there was rapt attention, 
not the least sign of weariness. 

Throughout the sermon I personally comprehended 
the magnetism of the man. I have heard him many times 
since, but he has never impressed me more than when I 
listened to him at the Myrtle Street Chapel. 

The " Keystone " having finished discharging, Messrs. 
Wm. Killey & Co. offered me a round charter to take a 
cargo of salt out to Chittagong, British Burmah, situated 
at the head of the Bay of Bengal, with a return cargo of 
rice from Akyab to Falmouth for orders, telling me they 
considered it the best charter offered, and one that they 
had taken for one of their own ships lying at Bombay, 
and she would have to wait three months for it. As the 
rates were very good, I thought best to accept it, and 
taking in our outward salt cargo, we were very quickly 
again ready for sea. 

As I was going aboard one day at the docks, a fellow 
having two dogs to sell accosted me alongside the barque, 
and importuned me to buy. One was a full-blooded 
Newfoundland, but a mere puppy, playful as a kitten, 
the other was a retriever, also very small, both thorough- 
breds. 

Striking a bargain, I had them placed on board, telling 
the second mate to have the carpenter knock up a house 
for them and to feed them daily, and soon Jube and 
Pincher, as they were named, became great favorites 
on board, both fore and aft. 

Stores having been taken on, and new crew shipped, 
including nearly all my old hands, good-bys were said to 
all our friends, and we again embarked. 



LIVERPOOL 285 

Hauling into the basin, with towboat ahead, we shot 
through the pier heads into the Mersey, the crowd on the 
pier to see us off giving a ringing cheer, which was heartily- 
responded to by our men, and soon old Liverpool was 
again over our taffrail. 

We passed the Rock Light, N. W. Lightship, Point 
Lynas, and had reached Holyhead ere the hawser was 
cast off, and our shore connection, with the leaving of 
our pilot, was severed. 

The illustration shows the ship " Importer," Captain 
George T. Avery, passing Rock Light, bound in. She 
registered 1,400 tons, was built at Newburyport, Mass., 
especially for the Calcutta trade, and made many profit- 
able voyages, paying for herself in less than four years. 
She was in later years sold to the Germans, and, altered 
to a barque rig, sailed under the German flag. 

Being up with Tuskar Light, the following afternoon, 
the weather looking very threatening, with a rapidly 
falling barometer, we bore up and ran into Waterford 
Harbor, coming to anchor between Passage and Bally- 
hack. Before midnight it was blowing a tremendous 
gale, and I congratulated myself that we were in a good, 
safe harbor, with our anchors down, for outside we would 
have been obliged to heave to, and would probably have 
drifted or have been driven out of the North Channel, 
as the gale lasted without any abatement for nearly a 
week, to say nothing of the dangers of collision. So 
many vessels congregated together in a very limited 
space were more to be feared in blowing, thick weather, 
than anything else in the St. George's or the English 
Channel. 

Going on shore at Passage the next day, and climbing 
the hill that affords a fine view seaward, we could see, 
with the glass, numerous ships, barques, and brigs, all 



286 OCEAN LIFE 

under a mere rag of canvas, and buffeting the big seas, 
evidently making hard weather of it. The sky overhead 
was bright and clear, but the force of the wind was 
terrific. 

We also improved the opportunity of visiting Water- 
ford, and landing at Ballyhack with our own boat, and 
taking the steamer for the city, we arrived inside an 
hour's time. 

After a good dinner at the hotel, I engaged an Irish 
jaunting-car, in which to ride around to- see the city 
generally. This was a novel experience to my wife as 
well as myself. The passengers sit back to back, with 
their legs hanging over the sides of the vehicle, and until 
you get accustomed to it, there is a feeling as if you were 
going to fall off over the wheels, especially when rounding 
a corner at a high rate of speed; every one holding on 
for dear life, for these Irish Jehus do not spare the horse, 
being bound to give you your money's worth. After a 
while the pace becomes exhilarating, and you do not 
mind his driving. We certainly thoroughly enjoyed it. 

Waterford is a thriving Irish city, prettily laid out, 
with many fine public buildings and private residences, 
good roads, and a population of upwards of twenty thou- 
sand. The country around produces great quantities of 
butter and cheese, so that Waterford has a large export 
trade of dairy products. 

Sunday morning at daylight, with beautiful weather 
and a fair wind, our anchor was hove up, all sail made, 
and bidding adieu to old Ireland, we passed out into St. 
George's Channel. 

Fortune now seemed to favor us. The wind continued 
fresh and fair, sometimes increasing to double-reef gales, 
until we crossed the parallel of 30° north, and again 
greeted our old friends, the trade winds. 



LIVERPOOL 287 

About this time, my wife expressed a wish to learn 
navigation. She had always taken the time from the 
chronometer for my morning sights, and was much 
interested in the day's work, and pricking off the barque's 
position on the chart daily. She had always kept her 
private journal, noting down each day's special events 
as they occurred, descriptions of all places visited, persons 
that she met and their characteristics. At the time of 
writing these pages, it would have been specially valuable 
as a book of reference, had it not been unfortunately 
mislaid or lost. 

Taking hold of the study of navigation in good earnest, 
she became quite proficient. She could take a sight and 
work it out as well as myself, and find the position on 
the chart without assistance. All this kept her mind 
employed, and with sewing, embroidery, fancy-work, 
reading and music, her time was well taken up, and she 
had very few idle moments. 

This was the most enjoyable period of my sea experi- 
ence. 

Again we had the glorious nights on deck, as the 
" Keystone " sailed silently on under the soft rays of 
a tropical moon. All my old musicians had reshipped, 
and again in the evenings the strains of music, with song, 
came to our ears from forward. 

The work of the ship went daily on, without friction. 
Mr. Lovett, former second officer, proved himself as 
efficient a first officer as Mr. Nelson, my former mate. 

Let me here say a word as to the advisability of a 
captain taking his wife to sea with him. 

A captain's position on shipboard at sea is a peculiar 
one. He is something like the mainspring of a watch. 
If that is all right, the works will do their duty, and all 
is well, but let the mainspring break, or anything happen 



288 OCEAN LIFE 

to it, and everything goes wrong, or stops. So the captain, 
as the mainspring, in order to keep perfect discipline, 
which is so essential to a well-regulated ship, must first 
discipline himself. He is thrown on his own resources. 
All on board, except himself, have companions; the crew 
have each other to talk with and confide their feelings to; 
the cook and steward fraternize; the first and second 
officers can confer, or even talk amicably together, 
although in this case, the first officer, if he knows his 
business, will preserve the line between the dignity of 
his position and undue familiarity, that in some instances 
is apt to be taken advantage of by the second. The 
captain, if he has no companion, stands alone, isolated, 
in a certain measure, from all on board. The old saying, 
" Familiarity breeds contempt," was never more truly 
applied than to these conditions on shipboard, and the 
master, no matter how socially inclined, although he 
may converse with his first officer on all matters pertaining 
to the ship, and even unbend and talk about side affairs, 
yet he must never forget his dignity or the claims of his 
position in any way that might be misinterpreted or 
taken advantage of; not that all officers would preserve 
the stiffness of demeanor, but to avoid trouble or un- 
pleasantness, it is always best to be on the safe side. 

So, I believe, if the captain is married, and his wife 
is in good health, enjoys travel, and is not afraid of the 
water, it were better she should accompany her husband 
on his voyages as one to whom he can always turn for 
companionship and confidences at sea. 

Woman's influence on shipboard, if she is a true, good 
woman, is felt for good throughout the ship. She has a 
refining influence, and the sailors guard their words and 
actions more in her presence, for no sailor, old or young, 
would pain her by thought or deed. How often have I 



LIVERPOOL 289 

seen Jack's face brighten up, when " the old woman " 
spoke a few pleasant, kindly words to him! No matter 
how young the captain and his wife may be, they are 
always to the sailors on shipboard " the old man " and 
" the old woman." It is a habit they have, with no 
desire to be flippant or disrespectful. 

The remark that I have heard so often, that a ship is 
no place for a woman, seems to my mind misapplied; 
if she loves the sea, and can have comfortable accommoda- 
tions, I can see no reason why she should not accompany 
her husband on his voyages, and there is certainly no 
place where more respect and courtesy will be shown 
her than on shipboard. This is my judgment, and I 
believe many others will testify to the same experience. 

Through the southeast trade belt, we are now bowling 
along, with fresh gales and bright sunshine, making 
good time towards the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Shoals of porpoises are daily seen, frisking and gambolling 
in the waves, playing leap-frog with each other, tumbling 
around the barque's bows as she drives the white foam 
far on either side, and one of their number often falls a 
victim to Jack's love for porpoise steak, fried liver or 
forcemeat balls. The porpoise is fine eating, and a good 
cook can get up most savory dishes, for both the cabin 
and forecastle. 

Our feathered friends, the Cape pigeons and stormy 
petrels, begin to make their appearance, and as we draw 
into a higher latitude, an occasional albatross is seen 
hovering around, sailing in graceful curves about our 
quarter, ready to pounce upon anything in the food line 
thrown overboard by the cook. It is most interesting 
to watch them. 

The weather has changed to cooler. No more star- 
gazing and lingering on deck of nights. Our music is 



290 OCEAN LIFE 

the whistling of the wind through the shrouds and rigging, 
although from our cozy after cabin, if not too rough, are 
heard the notes of Mrs. Whidden's piano, as they float 
up the companionway to mingle with the gale. 

So we sail, day after day, occasionally sighting a 
vessel which we have overhauled, or being passed by some 
ship or barque whose sailing qualities are superior to our 
own. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 
1869 

CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB. — AGAIN THE BURNING GHAUTS. 
— INTENSE HEAT DAY AND NIGHT. — REDUCING TEM- 



We are past the Cape of Good Hope, and now for the 
long stretch of five thousand miles ere we shall turn to 
the north' ard, and again breathe a warmer atmosphere, 
under a summer sky. The " Keystone " is now running 
down her easting in the " roaring forties," with strong 
gales bowling her along, part of the time under lower 
topsails in the furious squalls, which are accompanied 
with snow or driving, cutting hail, that causes one to 
turn his back to them, when the rattle against his stiff 
oilskins and sou'wester sounds like a discharge of small 
shot against some metallic substance. 

The squall over, upper topsails are again mastheaded, 
with men standing by the halliards, ready to let go and 
clew down on the next order. 

A big sea rolls after, the sun breaks forth and lights 
up the surges as they roll past, and perhaps in ten 
minutes : 

" Let go the topsail halliards! Clew down! " comes 
the order. 

" Aye, aye, sir," and the yards rattle down, as another 
squall bursts upon us, with a sky as black as night. 

291 



292 OCEAN LIFE 

Oh, this, indeed, is glorious sailing! It is so pleasant 
to find at noon that you have covered from six to eight 
degrees of easting, for in this latitude the miles to the 
degree of longitude are much shorter than at the equator, 
and it is most satisfactory to see the long line covered 
on the chart, and reckon, at that rate, how many more 
days or weeks ere you can bear away for a warmer clime 
and more genial temperature, and it comes at last. We 
are nearing the equator, and eighty-five days from the 
Sabbath morning we sailed from Waterford Harbor, 
the " Keystone " crosses the line in the Indian Ocean. 

Up to this time our passage had been good, but now we 
encountered a succession of calms and light, baffling airs, 
that was exasperating, being the last of the northeast 
monsoon, and it was thirty-five days more, ere we let 
go our anchor at midnight off the mouth of the Cawnpore 
River, on which lies the port of Chittagong. 

The land about the river's mouth is very low, so that 
nothing could be seen, although the night was clear. 
The water was very shoal: from six to eight fathoms. 
We had run through a number of fishing stakes, but had 
seen no boats, and judging ourselves about off the bar, 
let go our anchor to wait for daylight. 

Jube and Pincher, our dogs, who had now grown to 
good size, scented the land, and were highly excited. 

I was a stranger to the port, and knowing nothing of 
the pilot service here, I ordered a few rockets and blue 
lights brought up from below, thinking I might be able 
to attract a pilot on board. 

An empty beef barrel, containing a couple of pails of 
water, having been brought on top of the cabin, a rocket 
was placed therein, so that when the fuse was ignited 
the train of sparks would go into the water. In the 
meantime the dogs were very inquisitive, following me 



CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 293 

around and nosing everything I touched. Placing a 
rocket in the barrel, I ordered Mr. Lovett to hand me a 
lighted roll of paper from the binnacle. As I applied it 
to the fuse, both dogs, one on each side, placed their 
forepaws against the sides of the barrel, with their noses 
within six inches of the fuse and directly under it, evi- 
dently wondering in their minds, what on earth I was 
trying to do. In less than thirty seconds, the fuse ignited, 
and a stream of fire rained down on the noses of two of 
the most astonished dogs that were ever seen, while the 
rocket shot skyward. 

A simultaneous howl, and Pincher made a dive from 
the forward part of the house to the main deck, while 
Jube went over the after part, and neither took any 
more interest in the display of fireworks. 

Having expended a few rockets, and a couple of blue 
lights, we awaited results, and instituted a search for 
the dogs, which were nowhere to be seen. Finally, Pincher 
was discovered crouched in the eyes of the hawse-pipe 
under the to'gallant foVsle, scared and trembling. He 
was pulled out by one of the men, but all search for 
Jube was fruitless, and I at last came to the conclusion 
that he had not stopped after passing the break of the 
house, but had kept right on over the taffrail, and had 
found his end in the maw of some shark. 

The night being fine, I retired for a short time, and 
dropping into a slumber, I was awakened by a whisper 
from my wife, that she could hear some one breathing, 
and listening, I could hear a sort of muffled sound. Pro- 
curing a light, I discovered Jube squeezed under the 
couch as far as he could get, sound asleep. From the 
housetop he had gone down the companionway, and 
through my after cabin into the stateroom, where he 
lay while all the search was going on, finally falling 



294 OCEAN LIFE 

asleep and betraying his presence by his snoring. Routing 
him out, I turned him on deck, but he avoided the house- 
top and crept off forward. 

Early in the morning a native pilot boarded us, bringing 
off fruit, and a quantity of fresh beef, which was hung 
up to the mainstay for the cook's convenience. Jack, 
in his kindness of heart, cut off large quantities and fed 
to the dogs, and they eagerly devoured the unaccustomed 
food, which, combined with the heat and excitement, set 
them into convulsions, from which Jube died just as we 
were crossing the bar, while Pincher barely recovered. 
Poor Jube! He was truly mourned by all, fore and aft. 
He was my wife's favorite, and she missed him greatly. 
Pincher, his playmate, also seemed to mourn for him, 
and was so disconsolate, going around the ship, looking 
into every nook and corner, that I finally gave him to 
a young Englishman, a clerk in the counting-house of 
the consignee, who had taken quite a fancy to him. 
Knowing he would be well treated, I let him go. 

Working up the river, the wind being ahead, the " Key- 
stone " was anchored off the town, dressed in all her 
bunting, having the honor of carrying the American flag 
on a merchant ship up the Cawnpore River to Chittagong 
for the first time. 

Several vessels of different nationalities lay at anchor; 
among them an English barque. The weather was 
intensely hot, and exposing the men to the midday sun 
was out of the question, consequently, all the ship's 
work was done in the early morning hours, or late in the 
afternoon; all work on the cargo, caulking barque's 
bends, and whatever else was necessary, being done by 
coolies. 

The house of our consignee was large and roomy, 
built with regard to the climate. There were not many 




CAPTAIN GEORGE T. AVERY 



CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 295 

frame buildings, but there was a very pretty church, 
built in a grove, that we attended one Sabbath morning, 
and listened to a very interesting discourse by an English 
missionary. There are several English, French and 
German mercantile houses, and considerable trade is 
carried on with the Mauritius or Isle of France. 

Very little shore visiting was indulged in while there, 
the heat was so intense. It was much more comfortable 
on shipboard, and we remained afloat under double 
awnings, with hammocks swung beneath. Meanwhile 
our salt cargo was discharged and ballast taken in. 

A few days before sailing, a long river steamer, bound 
from Calcutta to Rangoon, put into the river in distress, 
having met with an accident. One of her passengers had 
about five hundred head of sheep on board, that he was 
taking to Rangoon on speculation, sheep commanding 
a high price at any of the rice ports. 

As the steamer would be a long time there, and having 
no market, he came on board and asked me to buy them, 
finally offering them to me at a rupee and a half a head, 
throwing in the feed. At this price I could see no risk, 
and bought the lot, putting them between decks and 
penning them in. A rupee is silver coin, value fifty cents. 

Sailing from Chittagong, we dropped anchor at Akyab 
the third day after, and a native trader coming on board, 
I closed a bargain for all the sheep at seven rupees a 
head, putting them ashore at once. At this rate the sheep 
were a pretty good investment. 

Calling upon my consignees, I found our cargo was 
ready for shipment, and the hold was at once put in 
readiness for taking in the rice. 

The land surrounding this port, lying on the east side 
of the Bay of Bengal, like all this part of the coast, is 
low, and the atmosphere was intensely hot, the northeast 



296 OCEAN LIFE 

monsoon being about finished, while the southwest had 
not yet set in. We were, so to speak, " between hay and 



We lay in Akyab, taking in our rice cargo, and for 
four weeks the thermometer ranged from 125° to 130° 
in the shade. It was almost a dead heat, with very little 
breeze stirring, except for a short time night and morning. 

The cholera was raging among the native population, 
and the burning ghauts, consuming the bodies but a 
short distance from and in plain sight of the barque, 
were in full blast. The smoke, when wafted towards us 
with the faint air in the right direction, was so offensive 
that we were twice obliged to change our berth, but with 
no shore leave the men all continued in good health. 

Mr. Whiting, our ship-chandler, who had the entire 
trade of the port, or nearly so, had arrived recently from 
England accompanied by his wife, and succeeded to the 
business of his uncle. There were three English captains 
in port, two of them having their families with them, 
and Mr. and Mrs. Whiting invited them, with Mrs. Whidden 
and myself, to take dinner with them at their bungalow. 

On the day named we went ashore, late in the after- 
noon, and rode to their house, some little distance out. 
It was built on piles, or posts, about four feet above the 
earth. This was necessary, as in the wet season poisonous 
snakes and other vermin creep into the houses, and could 
do so more readily if they were not raised from the ground. 

We were received by our hostess," who took charge of 
my wife, the others not having arrived, while I remained 
on the broad veranda that encircled the bungalow, to 
enjoy a cigar. Here were hammocks and reclining chairs 
in profusion, with punkas (swinging fans hung from the 
ceiling) everywhere. The building was but one story in 
height, but covered a large amount of space. On one 



CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 297 

side doors opened into Mrs. Whiting's apartments, while 
on the opposite were a number of apartments with doors 
opening on to the veranda. Hanging around the 
house, and sitting about the grounds and veranda, was 
a numerous retinue of servants, so indispensable to an 
East Indian household. 

The other guests having arrived, dinner was served 
at seven, — a typical East Indian spread, comprising 
soups and curries, roasts, salads and fruit, wines and 
coffee. The dinner was heartily enjoyed despite the 
heat, as the punkas were kept steadily going over the 
dining-tables and throughout the great room, keeping a 
current of air in circulation that abated the heat and 
made it very pleasant. 

Just as we arose from table, a squall that had been 
gathering burst upon us, accompanied by the most vivid 
lightning, with deafening peals of thunder. Taking the 
ladies to her rooms, our hostess called to her husband 
that she would show them her pretty things, while he, 
with his guests, smoked on the veranda. 

Sitting on the lee side, we smoked and chatted, waiting 
for the squall to pass over, but instead of that, it settled 
into a fresh gale, necessitating our remaining on shore 
overnight. 

Arrangements were soon made for the ladies to occupy 
the apartments of our hostess with her, while all the 
gentlemen remained by themselves in the rooms opening 
on the veranda. 

Retiring between ten and eleven o'clock, we passed a 
rather restless night, for the native servants were con- 
stantly moving stealthily about the veranda, and arose 
early. The weather had cleared, and being a little cooler 
after the storm, was more endurable. We partook with 
Mr. Whiting of " chota-hazree " (little breakfast) and 



298 DCEAN LIFE 

drove in town, leaving the ladies, who were not yet visible, 
to follow and meet us at the " godowns " or stores. 

Shortly after, Mrs. Whidden having arrived with the 
ladies, we went on board the barque at once, before the 
sun got high. When we were alone she told me she had 
passed a sleepless night, for great lizards were crawling 
over the walls. Mrs. Whiting had told her that the lizards 
were harmless, that snakes were most to be feared, and 
some of the most venomous she had preserved in a jar, 
which she had exhibited and said they were captured in 
her own room during the wet season. It was always 
necessary, she said, to give your boots or shoes a shake 
before putting them on in the morning, for they would be 
likely to contain a centipede or scorpion. 

" I never was so glad to see morning," my wife said, 
as she closed the review of the night; " I would not live 
there for a million a year! " 

A cyclone of the previous year having ruined every 
piano in Akyab, Mr. Whiting was anxious to buy mine 
for his wife, and offered me three times the amount paid 
for it in Bordeaux, over two years before, and my wife 
saying that, as we were bound home, it did not matter, 
I reluctantly parted with it. 

A few days more and our last bag of rice or " paddy " 
(rice with the husk on is called " paddy ") was taken in, 
all business was closed, and we were to sail in the morning, 
only too anxious to get to sea. 

Sleeping at night, owing to the intense heat, had for 
awhile been almost impossible, but I at last hit on a 
plan that lowered my temperature. 

I had a bucket of salt water placed on each side of my 
hammock, and immersing my lower extremities nearly 
to the knee, one in each bucket, I lay back and slept like 
an infant. 



CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 299 

All being in readiness, we awaited Mr. Locke, the pilot, 
and about six a. m. we saw his boat coming off. As soon 
as he came on deck, before he had time to tell us, I was 
sure by his appearance that he was the bearer of bad 
news. 

Our hostess, Mrs. Whiting, had been taken with cholera 
the past night, had died before twelve o'clock, and was 
already buried. It was a terrible shock, and I was only 
too thankful we were outward bound. 

Getting under way with a light breeze, we passed out 
to sea, and discharging our pilot, with a message of 
sympathy for Mr. Whiting, the " Keystone " was pointed 
down the bay. 



CHAPTER XXIX 
1869 - 1870 

THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA. LONGWOOD AND THE TOMB 

OF NAPOLEON. FALMOUTH, ENGLAND. ANTWERP, 

BELGIUM 

As we drew off from the land, the breeze became a 
little fresher, and being well to the westward, we were 
enabled to lay our course clear of the Andaman and 
Nicobar Island, and passing Ceylon were soon in the belt 
of the S. E. trades, and with every inch of canvas spread, 
were rapidly speeding across the Indian Ocean, homeward 
bound. 

Once again our delightful trades bear us towards the 
Cape of Good Hope, and as we inhale the draughts of 
pure air, our thoughts go back to Akyab with its broiling 
heat and pestilence-laden atmosphere, and I wonder how 
anybody escaped being stricken down. I am satisfied 
that only the great care exercised with the men in port 
kept them in good health. 

Day after day the same steady breeze, sometimes 
varying a little in strength, but no calms or light airs 
to vex one. Jack, as usual, is well stocked up with pets, 
mostly from Chittagong, consisting of several fine monkeys 
and lots of the feathered tribe. 

Mrs. Whidden had been presented by our stevedore 
with a large white cockatoo, having a bright yellow 

300 



THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 301 

tuft or crest, which lay down along its neck from the crown 
of its head; a handsome bird, but wild. On the approach 
of any one it would ruffle up, and throw this crest forward, 
assuming an angry appearance, opening its beak, which 
was hawked and a most formidable weapon. The taming 
of the bird seemed to be an impossibility. He could not 
bear confinement, and would tear his bamboo cage to 
pieces when angry, but would sit all day on a line stretched 
across the deck j ust forward of the cabin, confining himself 
at first to those limits. 

My wife, after many attempts to make friends with him, 
all to no purpose, finally gave him up as a most unsocial 
bird. 

One morning, during the forenoon watch, Snip, as he 
was called, took a notion to go aloft. This he had never 
attempted before. Edging along until he reached the 
royal backstay, he grasped it and mounted aloft with 
all the ease in the world, and stepping from the backstay 
to the royal yard, sat there the picture of contentment. 
He had been aloft an hour or so, when Mr. Nicholas 
Petite, the second mate, coming on deck, spied him, and 
seeing me coming from the cabin, he stepped forward, 
saying: 

" Mrs. Whidden's bird has gone on the royal yard, 
sir." 

" Yes, I know it," I replied; " when he gets ready 
he'll come down." 

" Sha'n't I go up and bring him down, sir? " he asked. 

" Oh, no, it's not necessary, and more than likely he'd 
bite you if you touched him." 

" Oh, no, sir," he said, " he would not bite me! Don't 
you think, sir, I'd better go? He may get overboard." 

Seeing he was very anxious to go, I said, " All right, 
go if you wish to, but take good care you don't touch 



302 OCEAN LIFE 

him with your bare hand," and after seeing Mr. 
Petite start aloft with a short stick in his hand for 
Snip to step on, I turned and went below, and was just 
on the point of coming up again, when I heard a great 
squawking, and emerged from the companionway just 
in time to see Mr. Petite jump from the rail and slap Snip 
angrily to the deck, his hand covered with blood, which 
was running freely. 

" What's the matter, Mr. Petite, has he bitten you? " 
I inquired. 

"■It's nothing, sir," he replied with a sickly smile. 

" Come here, sir, and let me look at it," I insisted, 
and finding it was a serious and most vicious bite through 
the fleshy part of the hand, between the thumb and fore- 
finger, I dressed it with Fryer's Balsam and arnica, and 
bound it up, Mr. Petite all the time protesting that it 
was nothing, but the mate, Mr. Lovett, told me after- 
wards, that when I went below for the balsam, Mr. Petite 
walked up to Snip and, shaking his fist at him, hissed 
something uncomplimentary between his teeth. 

It seems, that after getting to the royal yard, he held 
out his stick, which Snip alighted on, and Mr. Petite 
started to descend. In getting over the futtock-shrouds 
of the main top the stick came in contact with the crane- 
line, and grabbing it, Snip started again for the backstay 
to go aloft, when, Mr. Petite being fearful he was going 
to lose him, forgot himself, and made a grab at him 
with his bare hand, with the result described. 

Snip went aloft many times after that, but Mr. Petite 
was never anxious to go up and bring him down. 

We sailed past Madagascar, and nearing the Cape, the 
trades were gone, but the wind held steady in the eastern 
quarter, and we were in hopes it would carry us round. 

One morning the cry of " Land, ho! " came from aloft, 



THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 303 

and the high land between Cape Elizabeth and Cape 
Agulhas was dimly seen, and still farther on Cape Agulhas, 
the extreme tip of the great African continent came into 
view. Keeping the land well aboard, to take advantage 
of the current, which inshore sets past the Cape strong 
to the westward, we held our way, but later our wind 
died out, followed by a calm of short duration, when 
breezing up from west-nor'west and increasing, sail was 
reduced until midnight found the " Keystone " under 
lower topsails, heading to the south'ard with a stiff gale 
blowing and a high sea. We did not complain, however, 
for it had been fine so long, with smooth sailing, that this 
rather broke up the monotony, and shook everything 
up a little. 

The following day, the wind hauling to S. S. W. gave 
us a slant of which we were not long in taking advantage, 
and in twenty-four hours more the Cape of Good Hope 
was astern, and we were in the south Atlantic again, 
heading for St. Helena with a rattling breeze, the " Key- 
stone " shortening the distance rapidly. I intended to 
stop there and fill water, as our stock was getting low, 
having had no rain since leaving Akyab. 

Ten days after passing the Cape, with the break of 
day " Land, ho! " again sounded through the ship, and 
the famous island of St. Helena was before us, rising from 
the waves like a great rock, which it is, nothing more nor 



Getting anchors ready and chains on deck, we skirted 
the shore until, rounding the point, we came in full view 
of Jamestown Harbor or Roads, and running close in, 
we let go our anchor in twelve fathoms. 

A number of foreign vessels lay at anchor, among 
them an English man-o'-war. Ordering the water-boat 
alongside, and instructing Mr. Lovett that we would leave 



304 OCEAN LIFE 

that night, I went on shore with my wife, to pay our 
respects to our consul, and visit Longwood and Napoleon's 
tomb. 

We had a pleasant call on our country's representative, 
and then took a carriage and drove — over a good road 
all the way, with a fine outlook — to the home, or prison, 
of the great general. 

On arrival, we were given permission to look over the 
building and grounds, an old French soldier pointing out 
and explaining everything to us. 

Since England handed Longwood over to the care of 
the French government, everything is kept with the 
utmost neatness, and as near the conditions that existed 
at the time Napoleon occupied it as possible. Previous 
to that we were told it had been very much neglected, 
but be that as it may, it was then in the most perfect 
condition. 

His favorite walk and garden, and, in short, everything 
pertaining to the great soldier, came under our inspection. 
Every attention and courtesy was shown us, and on 
leaving, we found, to our surprise, that a gratuity or 
" tip," for services, was declined with thanks. The 
same custom prevailed at the tomb, which we visited 
after taking leave of Longwood. There, in a dell, enclosed 
within an iron railing, with weeping-willows bending over 
it, is still preserved the tomb where for years rested the 
remains of the world's greatest general; now reposing 
beneath the gilded dome of the Invalides, according to 
the wish expressed in his will dictated on this island: 
" I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the 
Seine, among that French people I so dearly loved." 

We stood there, in silence, beneath the willows that 
grew above his untenanted grave, the setting sun tingeing 
the clouds with the glory of the departing day, — the 



THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 305 

one hundredth anniversary of his birth, August 15, 1869, — 
and as the shadows deepened, our consciousness of the 
present was lost in thought which harmonized with the 
poet's lines: 

" Oh! Shade of the Mighty! Where now are thy legions? 

That rushed but to conquer, when thou led'st them on. 
Alas! They have fallen, in far distant regions, 

And all but the name of their conquests are gone. 
The lightnings may flash, and the loud cannon rattle, 

They stir not! They heed not! They're free from all pain! 
They sleep their last sleep, they have fought their last battle, 

No sound can awake them to glory again." 

Bidding good-by, and shaking the hand of the old 
soldier on guard, we entered our carriage, and were driven 
rapidly to Jamestown, where we found our boat awaiting 
us. Embarking, we were pulled on board, when, all being 
in readiness, the anchor was tripped, sail made, and we 
were speedily again on our way from St. Helena, having 
made a most pleasant break in our homeward voyage. 

Before leaving the barque the day we went to Long- 
wood, I had told a darkey boy to procure three or four 
cats and take them on board, and the mate, who had my 
instructions regarding the business, would give him half 
a crown apiece. There were a great many rats on board, 
and in case of damage to the rice cargo, I believed that 
the fact of my having cats on board, would clear the 
insurance all right. 

Mr. Lovett now informed me that the boy had brought 
on board three cats, two wild, and one tame, and they 
had all taken refuge in the hold. That they were playing 
havoc with the rats we knew by the noise at night, — 
the squealing of the rodents and the scampering through 
the lazarette, distinctly heard in the after cabin, in the 
still watches of the night. After awhile the tame one 



306 OCEAN LIFE 

formed the habit of coming into the cabin, being en- 
couraged by the steward, who, secretly, as he knew I did 
not want him there, would take him into the pantry and 
feed him. 

One night, some ten days after leaving St. Helena, 
he roused the sleepers in the after cabin by a wild, weird, 
discordant yell, and the steward's pet was found perched 
upon a trunk with his back arched at something — we 
did not stop to find out what, but took measures to 
effectually silence his music. 

Past Ascension Island, our trades carried us across the 
line, when light, variable winds, with rain squalls, 
succeeded, and for nearly a week our progress was slow, 
but once through this belt of calms, we caught the N. E. 
trades in a squall, and from that time forward we made 
fair time north, the wind not being overstrong at any time. 

Almost daily now we passed through great beds of 
gulfweed, sometimes extending for miles, and very thick. 
Mrs. Whidden amused herself by fishing up large quanti- 
ties and shaking it over a tub of water. 

Fishes — some of them an inch long — and Crustacea 
(shell-fish) of every shape and kind were found, many 
so singular that we tried to preserve them, but having 
no aleohol, were unable to do so. 

So far, we had seen but few sails, speaking none, 
although we had exchanged signals with two off the 
Cape. The " Keystone " now underwent the usual 
routine work of tarring, scraping and painting, prepara- 
tory to entering port after a long voyage, until the barque 
fairly shone. All hands, fore and aft, were now looking 
anxiously forward to the termination of the voyage, and 
each Sunday Jack could be seen overhauling his ward- 
robe, brushing and mending it, and examining the 
treasures he had laid in abroad for presents to his friends, 



THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 307 

and I am afraid many who were not friends, although he 
thought they were, — but this did not detract from his 
kindness of heart. 

" Light, ho! Two points on the port bow, sir," came 
from the topsail yard in cheery tones, about six bells in 
the first watch, and in a short time, the Scilly Lights 
could be plainly seen from the deck. The night was fine 
and clear, and passing the Scillys, towards morning we 
made the Lizard, rounding which, and taking on board 
a pilot, the barque dropped anchor in Falmouth Harbor — 
once more in the waters of old England. 

On shore I found orders awaiting me to proceed to 
Antwerp. Making inquiries as to a pilot, I was told I 
would get one off the Foreland, or Ostend, and leaving 
Falmouth about dusk, the wind blowing a brisk gale, 
we fairly flew up the Channel, passing the Isle of Wight, 
and were under the forelands before daylight. It was 
still blowing very strong, and seeing nothing in the shape 
of a pilot, we kept her travelling across the North Sea, 
making sure of picking one up off Ostend. But no such 
luck. No boats were out. As we drew in with the mouth 
of the River Scheldt, there was no sign of any pilot. The 
sand-bars, which extend out a long distance, are well 
buoyed out and show the channels and fairway, and as 
long as daylight lasts and one can see, it is comparatively 
easy to avoid danger. In a dark night and blowing a 
gale, it becomes a ticklish spot without a pilot, but there 
was no help for it now. We kept her going until darkness 
made it impossible to see the buoys, and the water being 
quite shoal, we clewed up everything and rounded to, 
letting go the anchor, which held all right, for it was 
evidently good holding ground. 

I sent up a rocket and burned a couple of blue lights 
in hopes of attracting the notice of a pilot. 



308 OCEAN LIFE 

* 

I was hailed by a passing steamer, bound in, to know 
if I wanted anything. 

" Yes/' I replied, " a pilot." 

" All right! I'll report you and send one out! " 

In the meantime the night wore on, daylight appeared, 
and still no pilot. Getting under way we ran into the 
mouth of the river, where a river pilot boarded us. He 
asked for the pilot who took us in, and being told we came 
in without one, he expressed surprise, saying that it had 
been blowing so hard for a few days that no one had gone 
out, not expecting any vessel would run in until it 
moderated. 

On our arrival at the city, we hauled into our berth 
for discharging, and took up our quarters at a hotel, for 
the barque had changed hands during my absence, and 
I now only awaited the discharging of our rice to turn her 
over, and after a short period of sightseeing, take the 
steamer for New York. I had now been absent thirty- 
four months — nearly three years — and I had about 
decided to give up the sea as a profession. Since the close 
of the war, the carrying trade had gone from bad to worse, 
and there was no money in it. 



CHAPTER XXX 
1870 

THE DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS. — THE WAR 
TARIFF. — AMERICAN SHIPPING UNDER FOREIGN FLAGS. 
— THE AMERICAN MARINE THE SCHOOL OF RESERVE FOR 
THE NAVY. — FAREWELL TO THE " KEYSTONE " AT 
ANTWERP 

It cost so much to sail an American ship, that it was 
simply impossible to compete with foreign shipping in 
the freighting business. An English, German, or French 
ship could charter and make money at rates that would 
run an American in debt. Why should that be so? The 
reason is obvious. From 1850 to 1860, the United States 
had as fine a merchant marine as ever floated. The 
discovery of gold in California, and the consequent rush 
to that country, called for forwarding facilities, for pro- 
visions, and merchandise of every description, to be 
delivered in the shortest possible time, and without so 
much regard to rate of freight. There was then no 
Panama Railroad, or Union Pacific Railroad built, and 
transportation by wagons or mules across the plains of 
immense quantities of merchandise, was too slow, expen- 
sive, and hazardous. There was no route but those via 
Cape Horn or Straits of Magellan. The old-style sailing 
ships, big carriers, with their bluff bows and square 
sterns, were altogether too slow. 

309 



310 OCEAN LIFE 

The emergency called for a class of ships whose carry- 
ing capacity was sacrificed to speed, the high rates of 
freight more than compensating for loss of cargo. As 
a result, the most magnificent class of clippers that ever 
swam the ocean were called into existence, challenging 
the admiration of the maritime world. 

From '49 to '60, just before the outbreak of the Civil 
War, these beautiful vessels were turned out from our 
numerous shipyards, each increasing in tonnage and speed, 
and built on the most graceful lines. They resembled 
yachts rather than freighters, and sat the waters " a 
thing of beauty." 

With fanciful names, they formed a class by themselves, 
their speed in transit being attested by such of their 
number as the " Flying Cloud," " Lightning," " Sur- 
prise," " Dreadnaught," " Eagle Wing," " Gray Eagle," 
" Trade Wind," and scores of others equally famous, 
which could truly be designated as " ocean flyers." 

The routes of these ships were generally from an Atlantic 
port to San Francisco, thence to China or India in ballast, 
and either loading teas for homeward trip to the United 
States or England, or perhaps taking a freight in Calcutta 
for New York or Boston, or coolies from Macao to Havana, 
the latter a very lucrative trade, and one in which these 
clippers were much in demand. During this time, freight- 
ing was good, and shipping paid handsomely. 

Then came the building of the Panama Railroad, and 
the Union Pacific Railroad, and the day of the clipper 
in the California trade, with its high rates of freight, 
was virtually over. Still, in foreign ports, with a freight 
in the market, in competition with shipping of other 
nations, such was their prestige, they always obtained 
the preference. 

Then came the outbreak of our Civil War and as a war 



DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS 311 

measure our tariff was increased on everything pertaining 
to shipping as well as everything else, which was a death- 
blow for the time to American ships, the tariff being 
prohibitory to competition with foreign shipping. Not 
having a force to protect our merchant marine, the 
greater part were placed under a foreign flag, mostly 
English, for protection. Those that remained and still 
swung " Old Glory " from their peaks, became a prey 
to Southern privateers — the " Alabama," " Shenan- 
doah," and others, while those that escaped capture 
were relegated to distant ports to pick up a precarious 
livelihood until the war was over. 

With the close of the war our shipping was reduced 
to a minimum. Every ship that was placed under the 
English flag for protection " still remained an English- 
man," as they could not again sail the seas under the 
folds of the " Star Spangled Banner." When they 
changed their flag, they changed for good. 

With the ending of the war all hoped that the tariff, 
especially on shipping, would be reduced, to enable our 
shipyards to again resume building, and enter into com- 
petition for the world's carrying trade, where we had lost 
prestige, but it was not to be. The tariff was still kept 
on, the same as during the war, and no one, under these 
conditions, was insane enough to build. The carrying 
trade of the world that should have been in American 
bottoms was allowed to slip from us, and with it one of 
our finest New England industries — shipbuilding. 

Not only this, but the nation suffered the loss of the 
nurseries and schools for American seamen, brought to 
perfection in our merchant marine, which stood ready as 
a reserve to be drawn upon in time of war, to man our 
war-ships and uphold the honor of the American flag. 

Shipbuilding having ceased, men and boys no longer 



312 OCEAN LIFE 

looked to the sea as a calling. With the decadence of 
the sailing ship the romance of the sea had departed; 
to the young there was no longer any incentive to become 
a sailor and their minds were diverted to other channels. 
American captains who still followed their profession 
hung on at reduced pay, or went to England, passed the 
examining board, and obtained command of English 
ships, sailing them for years. All these considerations 
combined caused me to make up my mind that I would 
give up the sea and go into business on shore. 

Through the courtesy of Mr. Hambro, of Hambro Bros., 
bankers, who came over from London to attend to our 
rice cargo, we were enabled to visit many private galleries 
of paintings which otherwise would have been closed to us. 

Stoddard, in his charming work, says of the fine old 
city of Antwerp or An vers: 

" Its name is said to be derived from the Flemish 
words meaning ' on the wharf/ and that indeed is the 
place where Antwerp's prosperity can be best estimated; 
it is a place of wonderful activity, and there its splendid 
quays, built by Napoleon when Antwerp formed a part 
of his colossal empire,, are crowded now with ships and 
steamers. Yet, busy as it is to-day, it gives us but a hint 
of what its commerce was three hundred years ago. 
Then thousands of vessels floated in the river and more 
than five hundred were arriving and departing every 
day. Merchants came hither from all parts of Europe, 
and in addition to her own commercial houses, more 
than a thousand foreign firms contended here in friendly, 
rivalry. Antwerp, however, has had much to contend 
with since that time. Again and again this region has 
been the cockpit of Europe, and for years, Antwerp's 
wealth and prosperity declined, but now she is rapidly 
recovering from her disasters." 



DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS 313 

A few days spent in Brussels, visiting objects of interest, 
completed our stay on the continent, when returning to 
the " Keystone," our cargo being out, I closed all business 
matters, turned over the command to Captain Berry, 
and taking the steamer for London, bade Antwerp a 
long farewell. 

A night's run brought us to the pier just below London 
Bridge. We remained in London a few weeks, visiting 
our old friends and the many places we had not seen, 
among them the Tower, Hampton, Windsor, Chelsea 
and Kew Gardens, Virginia Water, Eton College, Epping 
Forest and Greenwich. 

We went by train to Liverpool, having secured passage 
on the Cunarder " Palmyra," Captain Watson, remaining 
there a couple of days, picking up what few things 
we wanted for the trip home, and on a raw, chilly 
morning, took our departure from the Prince's Landing 
Stage for the " Palmyra," lying at anchor in the 
Mersey. 

"All aboard!" The anchor was weighed, and the 
steamer was pointed down river. The saloon passenger 
list was very small, not exceeding fifteen, with about 
one hundred and fifty in the steerage. 

Although the passage to Boston was exceedingly rough, 
the steamer encountering very heavy westerly and nor'- 
westerly gales, with violent snow and hail squalls and 
high seas, yet no accident occurred, and the passengers, 
both in saloon and steerage were comparatively com- 
fortable. It was too rough for pleasure on deck and 
amusements for the steerage were being constantly 
improvised. A mock trial held the boards every evening 
for over half the passage, and was participated in by 
the passengers and members of the ship's company; 
stewards, sailors, petty officers, representing plaintiff 






314 OCEAN LIFE 

and defendant, lawyers, judge, jury and witnesses, crier, 
constables or police, and court officers generally. 

The case was a very difficult one to decide. The 
arguments on both sides were spicy and witty, showing 
a good knowledge of legal acumen, and it became such 
a feature, and so interesting that nightly the male portion 
of the saloon passengers would steal forward into the 
steerage to listen to the debates. It finally ended in a 
verdict for the female defendant, to everybody's satis- 
faction. 

Fifteen days from the Mersey, the " Palmyra " passed 
Boston Light, steamed up the harbor, and docked at her 
pier at East Boston, our long passage ended, and with 
it my quarter-century's sea experience, from a boy in a 
ship's forecastle to the quarter-deck as captain and part 
owner. 



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